the grand canyon of arizona-第11章

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An　Adventurous　Trip。　Or；　better　still；　if　you　are　ready　for　whatever　adventure　may　befall　on　a　seldom　used　trail；　descend　Dr。　Walcott's　old　trail　to　the　river；　and　there　build　a　raft　（it　is　perfectly　feasible　and　not　too　dangerous；　unless　the　river　be　at　the　flood）　and　cross　to　the　other　side；　letting　your　horses　swim　over。　Then　come　out　by　way　of　the　Tanner　Trail；　after　riding　up　and　down　the　wide　beach　and　sandy　stretches　of　this　part　of　the　Canyon　as　far　north　and　east　as　the　Little　Colorado。

Indeed　you　may　walk　up　the　boxed…in　canyon　of　this　side　gorgewhere　few　white　men　have　trodon　your　return。

Qver　the　Desert　to　Hopiland。　A　fascinating　trip；　not　however　connected　with　the　Canyon；　is　suggested　in　the　chapter　on　〃An　Historical　Trail　across　the　Grand　Canyon　Country。〃　Arrange　to　go　in　mid…August；　even　though　it　be　hot　weather；　if　you　have　grown　a　little　toughened；　for　then　you　will　reach　Hopiland　at　the　time　of　the　Snake　Dance；　which　thrilling　ceremony　I　have　briefly；　but　truthfully；　described　in　a　special　chapter。

Many　such　trips　can　be　planned　for　those　who　really　wish　them；　and　he　who　is　wise　enough　to　take　them　will　probably　improve　in　health；　gain　a　wonderful　knowledge　of　one　of　the　most　fascinating　regions　of　the　earth；　and　fill　the　memory　with　treasures　that　nothing　can　destroy。



CHAPTER　VIII。　From　El　Tovar　Down　The　Bright　Angel　Trail

The　Start。　Leaving　El　Tovar　promptly　at　8：30　A。　M。；　fortified　with　a　good　breakfast；　and　suitably　clothed；　the　trail　party　in　a　few　minutes　reaches　the　head　of　Bright　Angel　Trail　near　Bright　Angel　Camp。　For　three…quarters　of　a　mile　this　trail　descends；　zigzagging　back　and　forth　until　the　top　of　the　cross…bedded　sandstone　is　reached。

Faulting　in　the　Sandstones。　Here　the　visitor　should　not　fail　to　observe　the　faulting　in　the　sandstone；　there　being　a　difference　in　the　two　sides　of　about　two　hundred　feet。　Without　this　fault　there　would　have　been　no　trail；　for　to　the　lifting　up；　or　dropping　down　of　the　strata；　is　due　their　shattered　condition；　which　alone　makes　trail…building　possible。　When　about　a　mile　down；　the　separation　line　between　the　cross…bedded　sandstone　and　the　upper　red　sandstone　is　clearly　revealed　to　the　left　of　the　trail。

By　this　time　all　timidity　has　vanished；　and　you　implicitly　trust　both　mule　and　trail；　even　when　going　around　that　narrow　ledge　known　as　Cape　Horn。

Now；　immediately　before　us；　the　majestic　pile　known　as　the　Battleship　presents　itself　with　new　power。　The　ship　itself　is　composed　of　the　red　sandstone。　The　base　upon　which　it　rests　is　the　red…wall　limestone。

A　few　feet　further；　and　the　cross…bedded　sandstone　may　be　seen　far　below　on　the　right；　out　of　plumb　with　the　same　mass　on　the　left；　to　which　it　belongs；　clearly　showing　that　some　convulsion　of　nature　has　either　thrust　the　mass　on　the　left　up；　or　forced　the　mass　on　the　right　down。

From　this　spot　a　fine　view　is　had　of　the　red…wall　limestone　below　and　the　Indian　Garden；　and；　far　below；　at　the　end　of　Pipe　Creek；　the　peculiar　folding　of　the　Algonkian　strata。　This　folding　is　also　to　be　seen　on　the　other　side　of　the　river　in　the　same　rocks。

Trees；　Flowers　and　Birds。　While　descending　the　first　mile　of　trail；　one　sees　plenty　of　flowers　and　shrubs；　and　many　Douglas　spruces。　These　do　not　exist　on　the　rim；　and；　strange　to　say；　the　pines　which　abound　there　are　never　found　on　the　trail。　One　will　generally　hear　the　sweet　descending　〃pipe〃　of　the　canyon　wren；　and　the　harsh　scolding　of　the　blue…winged　pinion　jay。　Hawks；　owls；　mocking…birds　and　robins　are　often　seen。　Butterflies；　moths；　and　humming…birds　wing　their　way　to　and　fro　and　give　a　delicate　touch　of　life　to　the　stern　rocky　features。　Time　was　when　the　visitor　at　El　Tovar　who　went　down　the　trail　to　the　river　might　have　seen　mountain　sheep；　bear；　deer；　antelopes　and　coyotes。

Jacob's　Ladder。　When　the　〃blue　lime〃the　top　of　the　red…wall　limestoneis　reached；　one　may　study　a　fine　piece　of　real　canyon　trail…making；　locally　called　Jacob's　Ladder。　Here　steps　have　been　cut　in　the　slippery　and　solid　rocks；　in　some　places　built　up　with　timbers；　and　thus　made　perfectly　safe。　It　is　customary　for　everybody　to　dismount　here；　so　as　to　lighten　the　load。　The　well…trained　saddle　mules　of　El　Tovar　stables　go　up　and　down　this　part　of　the　trail　without　hesitation。

Red…Wall　Limestone。　Standing　on　the　summit　of　the　red…wall　limestone；　we　are　again　forcefully　reminded　that　it　is　the　most　prominent　member　of　the　Grand　Canyon　strata。　Its　insistent　mass　is　a　thousand　feet　in　thickness。　The　face　of　this　wall；　close　before　us；　is　carved　into　numerous　alcoves；　and　as　we　near　its　base；　we　observe　to　the　right　a　vast　double…cornered　recess　known　as　Angel　Alcove。　From　here　it　is　interesting　to　look　up　to　the　rim　and　observe　the　peculiar　and　varied　contour　of　the　many　pinnacles　cut　by　wind　and　storm　out　of　the　cherty　limestone。

Buddha　and　Manu　Temples。　From　this　point；　also；　the　first　good　view；　from　below　the　rim；　of　Buddha　Temple　（seven　thousand　two　hundred　and　eighteen　feet）　is　obtained。　It　is　to　the　left　of　Bright　Angel　Creek。　Now　look　carefully　at　the　ridge　that　leads　the　eye　from　Buddha　Temple　to　Bright　Angel　Creek。　It　appears　to　be　a　portion　of　the　main　wall　of　the　Kaibab　Plateau。　In　reality　it　is　three　miles　from　the　Kaibab　wall；　and；　under　suitable　conditions；　may　be　seen　as　a　massive　temple；　which　has　been　named　Manu　Temple　（seven　thousand　one　hundred　and　ninety…two　feet）；　after　the　great　law…giver　of　the　Hindoos。

Indian　Garden　and　Cheops　Pyramid。　At　the　base　of　the　red…wall　limestone；　the　trail　opens　up　a　little；　and　permits　easier　breathing　by　the　tyro　on　horseback；　from　now　on　to　Indian　Garden　（three　thousand　eight　hundred　and　seventy…six　feet）　we　ride　in　a　boulder　bed；　where　large　blocks　of　rock　of　every　conceivable　shape　lie　as　they　fell　from　the　strata　above。　Small　shrubs　and　plants　abound；　and　tiny　lizards　and　inquisitive　swifts　dart　to　and　fro。　Nearer　to　us　is　Cheops　Pyramid　（five　thousand　three　hundred　and　fifty　feet）；　a　massive　monument；　though　less　ornately　carved　than　Buddha。

Isis　and　Shiva　Temples。　Above　it　and　farther　to　the　left；　is　Isis　Temple　（seven　thousand　and　twenty…eight　feet）；　the　cap　of　which；　at　this　angle；　presents　the　appearance　of　two　acorn…like　structures　resting　upon　their　cups；　the　taller　of　which　is　carved　out　of　the　cross…bedded　sandstone。　It　is　the　eastern　supporter　of　Shiva　Temple　（seven　thousand　six　hundred　and　fifty　feet）；　of　which　Captain　Dutton；　who　named　it；　wrote　eloquently　and　vividly。

Brahma　and　Zoroaster　Temples。　Now　turn　the　eye　away　from　Shiva；　across　to　the　east　of　Bright　Angel　Creek。　There；　outlined　against　the　sky；　are　two　noble…profiled　buttes。　The　rear　one　is　Brahma　Temple　（seven　thousand　five　hundred　and　fifty…four　feet）；　named　after　the　first　of　the　Hindoo　triad；　the　Supreme　Creator。　The　smaller　butte；　an　angular　mass　of　solid；　unrelieved　rock；　sloping　in　a　peculiarly　oblique　fashion；　is　Zoroaster　Temple　（seven　thousand　one　hundred　and　thirty　feet）；　thus　adding　to　the　Hindoo　pantheon　a　fane　for　the　founder　of　the　religion　of　the　Irano…Persians。

Deva　Temple；　Obi；　and　Komo　Points。　Behind　Brahma　can　be　seen；　when　at　the　right　angle；　a　flat…topped　detached　mass　（seven　thousand　three　hundred　and　forty…four　feet）　named　Deva　Temple。　Behind　and　above　it　are　two　points；　Obi　（eight　thousand　feet）　to　the　right；　and　Komo；　about　the　same　height；　to　the　left。　These　are　the　salient　points　on　Walhalla　Plateau；　overlooking　the　Ottoman　Amphitheatre；　the　chief　temples　of　which　I　have　already　named。

Indian　Garden。　Passing　now　through　the　fertile　Indian　Garden；　Angel　Plateau　is　reached。　The　spring　at　Indian　Garden　is　large　enough　to　irrigate　a　small　tract　of　ground。　Experience　has　demonstrated　that　not　only　can　vegetables　of　every　kind　be　grown　here；　but　all　kinds　of　fruits；　even　oranges；　lemons　and　grapefruit。　For　two　miles　after　leaving　the　Garden；　we　ride　over　a　fairly　level　plateau　to　its　edge；　where　it　overlooks　the　Granite　Gorge。　Here；　standing　on　the　Tonto　sandstone　（three　thousand　seven　hundred　and　eight　feet）；　we　look　down　into　the　dark　recesses　of　the　inner　gorge；　and　picture　the　events　described　by　Major　Powell；　when　he　and　his　brave　band　of　intrepid　explorers　passed　through。

O'Neill　Butte。　Now　looking　back　to　the　rim　at　Yaki　Point；　we　see　beneath　it；　and　corresponding　to　the　Battleship；　an　imposing　structure。　It　has　been　named　O'Neill　Butte；　in　honor　of　〃Bucky〃　O'Neill；　one　of　Roosevelt's　Rough　Riders；　who　was　slain　during　the　heroic　charge　at　San　Juan　Hill。　He　it　was　who　interested　Eastern　capitalists　in　the　Anita　Mine；　and　was　therefore　indirectly　responsible　for　the　building　of　the　Grand　Canyon　Railway。

Pipe　Creek。　Those　who　wish　to　go　to　the　river　now　retrace　a　portion　of　the　way　to　the　Indian　Garden；　and　then　turn　off　eastward　by　the　old…time　Indian　corn…storage　houses。　Here　one　obtains　a　fine　view　of　the　wild　chaos　of　metamorphosed　rocks　of　Pipe　Creek。　It　is　a　veritable　Pluto's　workshop；　where　the　rocks　are　twisted；　burned；　and　tortured　out　of　all　semblance　to　their　original　condition。　They　are　made　into　cruel　and　black　jagged　ridges；　which　seem　eager　to　tear　and　rend　you。

Falls　of　Willow　Creek。　In　these　forbidding　rocks　the　Devil's　Corkscrew　Trail　has　been　cut；　winding　and　twisting　down；　down；　twelve　hundred　feet；　passing　by　a　split　in　the　rocks　where　the　waters　of　Willow　Creek　make　a　waterfall　of　over　two　hundred　feet。

The　Colorado　River。　At　last　the　Colorado　River　is　reached；　and　we　are　but　two　thousand　four　hundred　and　thirty…six　feet　above　the　sea。　El　Tovar；　above；　is　six　thousand　eight　hundred　and　sixty…six　feet；　and　we　have　thus　descended　four　thousand　four　hundred　and　thirty　feet；　nearly　a　mile；　from　rim　to　river。　And　what　a　river　it　is！　No　one　can　form　any　idea　of　it；　unless　he　stands　on　the　very　brink；　almost　deafened　by　the　sound　of　its　sullen　roar　and　turbulent　rapids。　It　is　hungry；　insatiable；　murderous；　cruel。　Many　a　foolish　mortal　has　had　the　breath　dashed　from　his　body　by　these　powerful　waves。　Those　who　wish　to　cross　to　the　other　side　can　defy　danger　in　the　cable　crossing；　but　only　a　skilled　boatman　should　attempt　to　row　across。

Colorado　Salmon。　Fish　are　caught　in　the　river　here　at　times。　The　chief　variety　is　a　scale…bearing　fish；　of　silvery　appearance；　commonly　known　to　the　local　dwellers　as　Colorado　salmon。　Specimens　have　been　caught　two　feet　eight　inches　in　length；　and　sixteen　inches　in　circumference；　and　a　fortunate　fisherman　brought　one　up　to　El　Tovar；　which　was　nearly　three　feet　in　length。

Camping　at　the　River。　It　is　a　delightful　experience　to　remain　over　night　and　sleep　on　the　river　sand；　especially　if　the　moon　be　at　its　full。　Then　one　sees　great　walking　shadowsmoving；　living；　palpable　entities。　Towers　and　buttes　and　temples　take　on　new　qualities　under　the　softer　luminary　of　the　night。

Here；　too；　one　gets　to　know　the　Canyon　in　a　new　phase。　He　is　in　the　trough　between　two　ranges　of　mountains。　To　the　north　and　to　the　south　are　towering　peaks。　You　forget　that　you　have　ridden　down；　down；　to　reach　this　spot。　You　are　in　a　new　country。　A　majestic　range　of　glorious　peaks　soars　away　above　you　to　the　north。　Now；　by　merely　turning　in　the　other　direction；　you　see　another　and　entirely　different　range；　with　peaks；　canyons；　ravines；　gorges；　points；　ridges　all　its　own。

The　Return