the grand canyon of arizona-第15章

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To　the　north　of　Ives　Point；　but　hidden　from　view；　are　Beale　Point；　six　thousand　six　hundred　and　ninety…five　feet；　Thompson　Point；　six　thousand　seven　hundred　and　thirty　feet；　and　Newberry　Point；　six　thousand　seven　hundred　and　fifty　feet；　all　named　after　early　Arizona　explorers　and　geologists。

Conquistadore　Aisle　and　Steamboat　Mountain。　The　dark　chasm　of　the　river　itself；　where　it　moves　almost　due　west；　has　been　named　Conquistadore　Aisle；　in　honor　of　the　men　whose　names　are　attached　to　the　terraces　above。　Here　the　river　again　curves；　and　its　course　is　seen　to　be　to　the　northeast；　as　if　doubling　behind　Powell　Plateau。　It　then　turns　back　upon　itself；　and　goes　to　the　southwest。　If　the　conditions　are　favorable；　one　may　see；　to　the　left　of　Ives　Point；　a　majestic　butte；　detached　from　the　further　wall　of　the　Canyon；　and　generally　known　as　Steamboat　Mountain。　It　is　an　object　of　great　interest；　when　seen　from　the　saddle　on　the　north　rim　by　those　who　have　crossed　the　Canyon　and　are　journeying　to　Point　Sublime。

The　Scenic　Divide。　Now　let　the　observer　compare　the　view　to　the　left　with　that　which　he　has　carefully　examined　on　the　right。　There；　in　the　latter　view；　are　towers　and　buttes；　detached　monuments；　and　a　perfect　bewilderment　of　scenic　features；　here；　to　the　left；　save　for　the　aisles；　terraces　and　further　wall；　there　is　little　to　attract　attention。　The　view；　comparatively；　is　uninteresting。　The　reason　for　this　is　clear。　The　granite　of　the　Inner　Gorge　has　disappeared。　Here　is　the　Scenic　Divide；　the　natural　line　of　demarcation　between　two　distinctive　portions　of　the　Canyon；　the　scenery　of　which　is　markedly　diverse。　Where　the　granite　is　in　evidence；　the　stratified　rocks　resting　upon　it　are　carved　into　varied　forms：　Where　the　river　flows　through　the　stratified　rocks；　and　no　granite　appears；　there　are　few　or　no　buttes；　no　towers；　no　monuments。　Nowhere　else；　in　the　accessible　portions　of　the　Canyon；　is　this　difference　seen；　for　at　Grand　View；　the　head　of　the　old　Hance　Trail；　the　Red　Canyon　Trail；　Boucher's　and　the　Bright　Angel　Trails；　the　outlooks　are　over　areas　where　the　granite　has　thrust　itself　out　of　the　bowels　of　the　earth。

Bass's　Cable　Crossing。　The　ride　down　Bass's　Trail　is　an　interesting　one；　passing　on　the　way　two　prehistoric　water…pockets　and　several　cliff…dwellings。　On　the　plateau　below；　forty　miles　of　trail　riding；　almost　on　the　level；　may　be　indulged　in；　before　one　descends　the　narrow　Canyon　to　Bed　Rock　Camp　and　the　river。　Here　a　ferry　and　cable　crossing　have　been　established；　the　former　for　use　during　low　water；　while；　after　the　flood　season　begins；　the　latter　enables　travelers　and　stock　to　make　a　safe　passage　in　the　cage　suspended　from　the　cable。



CHAPTER　XII。　Across　The　Grand　Canyon　To　Point　Sublime

Point　Sublime。　Point　Sublime　is　one　of　the　most　important　promontories　on　the　north　rim。　It　was　here　that　the　geologist…poet；　Clarence　Dutton；　wrote　many　of　his　descriptions　of　Canyon　scenery。　He　says：　〃The　supreme　views　are　to　be　obtained　at　the　extremities　of　the　long　promontories；　which　jut　out　between　the　recesses　far　into　the　gulf。　Sitting　upon　the　edge　we　contemplate　the　most　sublime　and　awe…inspiring　spectacle　in　the　world。　The　length　of　canyon　revealed　clearly　and　in　detail　at　Point　Sublime　is　about　twenty…five　miles　in　each　direction。　Towards　the　northwest　the　vista　terminates　behind　the　projecting　mass　of　Powell's　Plateau。　But　again　to　the　westward　may　be　seen　the　crests　of　the　upper　walls　reaching　through　the　Kanab　and　Uinkaret　Plateaus；　and　finally　disappearing　in　the　haze　above　Seventy…five　miles　away。

〃The　space　under　immediate　view　from　our　standpoint；　fifty　miles　long　and　ten　to　twelve　wide；　is　thronged　with　a　great　multitude　of　objects　so　vast　in　size；　so　bold　and　majestic　in　form；　so　infinite　in　their　details；　that　as　the　truth　gradually　reveals　itself　to　the　perceptions；　it　arouses　the　strongest　emotions。〃

Several　times　I　had　started　to　Point　Sublime；　but　there　were　difficulties　about　the　trail。　Sometime　before　1900；　Mr。　Bass　completed　a　trail　on　the　north　side　of　the　river；　up　under　the　shoulders　of　Powell　Plateau　and　out　to　the　desired　location。

Starting　for　Point　Sublime。　In　August；　1901；　a　party　was　arranged；　consisting　of　Mrs。　J。　B。　Gayler；　of　Ridgewood；　New　Jersey；　a　learned　doctor　from　St。　Louis；　Mr。　Bass　and　myself。　On　Sunday；　September　1st；　after　loading　three　pack　animals　with　provisions　and　bedding　needed　for　the　trip；　we　set　out　down　the　trail；　headed　for　Point　Sublime。　To　the　ferry　nothing　of　particular　interest　occurred。

From　this　point　on　I　shall　use　the　diary　of　Mrs。　Gayler　as　the　basis　of　my　descriptions；　adding　thereto　or　condensing　when　necessary。　It　is　written　in　the　present　tense；　which　will　be　preserved　throughout。

At　the　River。　She　says：　〃The　sight　of　the　river　rouses　me　to　a　considerable　pitch　of　enthusiasm。　How　dirty　and　muddy　a　river　it　is；　and　how　it　roars　and　rages。　There　is　a　great　rapid　a　quarter　of　a　mile　above　where　we　cross。　While　we　are　to　cross　in　still　water；　the　current　is　strong　and　bears　one　on　to　the　worst　rapid　in　the　whole　river。　It　is　named　Stanton　Rapid；　for　at　that　point　one　of　his　boats　was　dashed　to　splinters。　He　numbered　it　No。　241。

〃We　part　with　our　animals　near　a　little　shelter　at　the　top　of　the　Archaean　rocks　and　scramble　down　a　slippery　trail。

Crossing　the　River。　〃With　some　trepidation　I　enter　the　boat；　a　few　articles　are　thrown　in；　Dad　takes　the　oars；　some　one　pushes　us　off　and　we　are　fairly　on　the　stream。　The　boat　soon　strikes　the　sandy　landing　on　the　other　side；　a　considerable　distance　below；　and　Dad　hands　me　out　with　care　and　courtesy。　I　occupy　myself　looking　at　the　structure　of　the　rocks。　There　are　many　curious　faults　and　flexures。　The　river　very　strange；　walls　black；　gloomy　and　precipitous。　The　landing　on　the　south　side　was　solid　rock；　here　a　bit　of　sandy　beach　between　bars　of　rock。　The　Doctor　is　already　here。　He　makes　a　fire　of　driftwood　near　the　wall　of　black　rock　under　which　is　the　stretch　of　sand。　I　pick　out　my　sleeping　place　and　begin　the　making　of　my　bed。

〃James；　Bass　and　Dad　go　back　and　forth　across　the　river　many　times　to　bring　our　stuff；　and　daylight　is　entirely　gone　long　before　the　job　is　completed。

Supper　on　the　Sand。　〃I　try　to　help　in　carrying　things　up　the　bank　but　am　too　tired　to　be　of　much　use。　Gather　wood　for　fire。　The　men　had　prepared　supper　by　firelight；　which　we　take　crouching；　sitting　or　lying　down　on　the　sand。　The　air　is　mild　and　soft。

Moonlight。　〃Monday；　Sept。　2；　1901。　3　A。M。　Writing　by　moonlight。　The　roar　of　the　rapids　is　constant。　One　hears　it　even　in　sleep。　There　are　occasionally　little　swirling；　flapping　noises。　What　a　wonderful　place　for　mea　quiet；　New　Jersey　womanto　be　sleeping　in。

To　the　Shinumo。　〃When　Mr。　Bass　awakes　he　shows　me　a　large　pool　of　river　water　in　the　rocks。　It　has　settled　and　is　clear　and　cold。　After　breakfast；　the　doctor　and　I　scramble　up　the　rocky　trail　to　the　plateau　above；　mount　two　of　the　burros　and　start　for　the　Shinumo　Camp。　It　is　6：30　when　we　startquite　early　I　should　call　itand　we　reach　camp　at　8。00　A。　M。　A　stiff　climb　nearly　all　the　way。

〃What　a　clear　mountain　torrent　the　Shinumo　is。　It　is　like　our　Eastern　creeks。　Its　rocky　sides　are　lined　with　willows　or　other　green　trees　and　it　comes　splashing　and　dashing　down　as　pure　and　sweet　as　can　be。

Shinumo　Camp　and　Garden。　〃The　camp　is　a　novelty　to　me。　Part　tent；　part　wood；　part　rock；part　indoors；　part　outdoors。　The　fireplace　is　of　stone　and　out　of　doors；　and　the　table　is　a　great　slab　of　red　sandstone　resting　on　two　heavy　rock　supports。　It　would　hold　a　ton。　There　are　two　good　beds。　Across　the　stream　a　little　way　down　is　the　Shinumo　garden。　It　seems　incredible　that　there　can　be　a　garden　here　with　excellent　melons；　cantaloupes；　radishes；　onions；　corn；　squash；　beans；　and　with　fair…sized　peach　and　other　trees。　They　tell　me　it　is　a　prehistoric　garden　and　that　it　was　discovered　by　following　the　ruins　of　ancient　irrigating　ditches　down　to　the　spot。　In　the　wall　beyond　are　several　small　cliff…dwellings　and　storage　houses　for　corn　and　other　vegetables。　There　are　tremendous　tilts　and　flexures　in　the　rock　walls　on　each　side。

〃Mr。　Bass　and　Dad　go　off　to　hunt　for　the　horses　and　mules　we　are　to　use　on　the　trip。　The　burros　will　not　travel　fast　enough；　though　they　are　going　to　put　me　on　a　large　burro　they　name　Belshazzar。

〃After　lunch　each　spends　the　afternoon　as　he　chooses。　Mr。　James　invites　me　to　come　and　visit　a　snuggery　that　he　has　established；　where　I　find　him　writing。　He　reads　what　he　has　written；　also　part　of　Browning's　'Rabbi　Ben　Ezra。'

〃Tuesday；　Sept。　3；　1901。　At　and　preparing　to　leave　Shinumo。　The　magnitude　of　the　undertaking　appalls　me。　It　is　so　much　more　tremendous　than　I　anticipated。

The　Start。　〃The　saddling　and　packing　of　the　animals　occupies　much　time。　We　start　about　nine　o'clock　with　nine　animals；　six　burros；　two　horses　and　one　mule。　My　Belshazzar　is　slow　but　very　sure。　Mr。　James　rides　the　mule；　a　red　creature；　very　nervous　and　excitable　and　which　they　tell　me　is　not　well　broken　and　does　not　like　to　be　ridden。

Ascending　the　Trail。　〃We　go　up　a　long　trail　over　a　ridge；　with　loose　soil；　quite　barren。　The　ascent　is　not　very　steep　but　the　hillside　across　which　the　trail　passes　slopes　down　to　canyons　and　precipices　which　suggest　unfathomable　depths。　At　one　place　the　trail；　for　about　fifty　feet；　is　over　ashes　or　some　exceedingly　loose　material　that　allows　the　animals　to　slide　very　quickly　down　towards　the　deep　precipice　on　the　right　and　the　sight　is　most　trying　to　my　nerves；　but　Belshazzar's　deliberate　walk　and　sure…footedness　soon　restore　my　usual　equanimity。

〃From　this　we　pass　into　a　canyon　or　series　of　canyons　where　one　can　plainly　see　that　in　the　remote　past　a　torrent　has　poured　down；　tearing　away　the　soil　and　tossing　huge　boulders　about。　Many　naked　rocky　ledges　show；　and　my　burro　is　occasionally　required　to　carry　me　up　stone　steps。

Muav　Canyon。　〃Presently　we　enter　a　narrow　canyon　through　which　flows　a　clear；　cool　stream。　Walls　of　red　rock　on　both　sides　with；　much　gray　stone。　Many　large　sycamores；　cottonwoods　and　alders；　grass　and　flowers；　with　maidenhair　ferns　on　the　rocks。　We　stop　for　lunch　under　a　big　cottonwood　tree。　About　four　thousand　five　hundred　feet　elevation。　We　leave　this　lovely　spot　and　go　up　the　canyon　which　makes　a　sharp　turn　to　the　left。　This　is　Muav　Canyon。

Climbing　Higher。　〃After　a　little　distance　we　emerge　from　this　canyon　and　leave　the　stream。　Then　begins　a　tremendous　climb　which　I　accomplish　by　clinging　to　the　coat　tails　of　the　guide　with　one　hand　and　sometimes　with　both　hands；　he　holding　tight　to　the　burro's　tail　ahead　of　him。　Belshazzar　accepts　thisto　menovel　situation　with　accustomed　cheerfulness　and　does　his　best　to　haul　us　up　the　mountain；　stopping　occasionally　to　recover　his　breath。　Finishing　this　part　of　the　ascent；　we　come　to　a　fertile　plateau　with　trees　in　great　number　and　variety。　At　an　angle　of　the　canyon　below；　nearly　opposite　the　steep　trail　up　which　we　have　just　climbed；　is　the　eroded　terminus　of　a　great　promontory；　carved　into　a　high　and　slender　pedestal　upon　which　stands　a　rude　figure　not　unlike　one　of　the　wooden　statues　seen　in　the　old　Franciscan　missions　of　California。　Below　this　the　rock　strata　are　curved　and　twisted　into　all　kinds　of　shapes。　In　one　place　there　is　a