the grand canyon of arizona-第2章
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the hours of dawn and the slow ascent of the sun； and equally in the very late afternoon and at sunset； are its most entrancing effects to be witnessed。 At midday； with the sun glaring through into its depths； the reds and chocolates of the sandstones （which are the predominating colors） are so strong； and the relieving shadows so few； that it seems uninteresting。 But let one watch it as I did last night； between the hours of seven and ten； and again this morning from five until eight of the clock。 What revelations of forms； what richness of colors； what transformations of apparently featureless walls into angles and arches and recesses and facets and entablatures and friezes and facades。 What lighting up of towers and temples and buttes and minarets and pinnacles and ridges and peaks and pillars of erosion！ What exposures of detached and isolated mountains of rock； of accompanying gorges and ravines； deep； forbidding； black and unknown； the depths of which the foot of man has never trod！ Turner never depicted such dazzling scenes； Rembrandt such violent and yet attractive contrasts。 Here everything is massive and dominating。 The colors are vivid； the shadows are purple to blackness； the heights are towering； the depths are appalling； the sheer walls are as if poised in mid…air； the towers and temples dwarf into insignificance even the monster works of man on the Nile。 Here are single mountains of erosion standing as simple features of the vast sight spread out for miles before you； that are as high as the highest mountains of the Eastern States。 A score of Mt。 Washingtons find repose in the depths of this incomprehensible waterway； in the two hundred and seventeen miles of its length。 In width it varies from ten to twenty miles； and at the point where I now sit writing； where the Canyon makes a double bow…knot in a marvelous bend； the north wall （which； in the sharp bend of the river； becomes the south wall of the reverse of the curve） is completely broken down； so that one has a clear and direct view across two widths of canyon and river to a distance of from thirty…five to forty miles。 Who can really 〃take in〃 such a view？ I have gazed upon the Canyon at this spot almost yearly； and often daily for weeks at a time； for about twenty years； yet such is the marvelousness of distance； that never until two days ago did I discover that a giant detached mountain； fully eight thousand feet high； and with a base ten miles square； which I had photographed from another angle on the north side of the Canyon； stood in the direct line of my sight and； as it were； immediately before me。 The discovery was made by a peculiar falling of light and shadow。 The heavens were filled with clouds which threw complete shadows on the far north wall。 The sun happened to shine through the clouds and light up the whole contour of this Steamboat Mountain （so called because of its shape）； so that it stood forth clearly outlined against the dark field behind。 In surprise I called to my companion and showed her my discovery。 Yet； such is the deceptiveness of distance that； to the unaided eye； and without being aware of the fact； even my observant faculties had never before perceived that this gigantic mass was not a portion of the great north wall； from which it is detached by a canyon fully eight miles wide。
No one can know the Grand Canyon； in all its phases。 It is one of those sights that words cannot exaggerate。 What does it matter how deep you sayin hundreds or thousands of feetthe Canyon is； when you cannot see to the bottom of it？ Strict literalists may stick out for the exact figures in feet and inches from rim to riverelsewhere given as the scientists of the United States Geological Survey have recorded thembut to me they are almost valueless。 Its depth is beyond human comprehension in figures； and so is its width。 And the eye of the best trained man in the world cannot grasp all its features of wall and butte and canyon； of winding ridge and curving ravine； of fell precipice and rocky gorge； in a week； a month； a year； or a lifetime。 Hence words can but suggest； nothing can describe the indescribable； nothing can picture what no man ever has seen in its completeness。
What Men Have Said of the Canyon。 Men have stood before it and called it 〃an inferno； swathed in soft celestial fires；〃 but what is an inferno？ And who ever saw the fires of heaven？ Words！ words！ words！ Charles Dudley Warner； versed in much and diverse world…scenery； mountain…sculpture； canyon…carvings； and plain…sweep； confessed： 〃I experienced for a moment an indescribable terror of nature； a confusion of mind； a fear to be alone in such a presence。 With all its grotesqueness and majesty of form and radiance of color； creation seemed in a whirl。〃 When the reader thinks of grotesqueness； what images come to his mind？ A Chinese joss； perhaps； a funny human face on the profile of a rock； but nothing so vast； so awful； so large as this。 The word 〃majesty〃 suggests a kingly presence； a large man of dignified mien； or a sequoia standing supreme over all other trees in the forest。 But a thousand men of majesty could be placed unseen in one tiny rift in this gorge； and all the sequoias of the world could be planted in one stretch of this Canyon； and never be noticed by the most careful watcher on the rim。
Another； reaching the Canyon at night； declared that she and her companions seemed to be 〃standing in midair； while below； the dark depths were lost in blackness and mystery。〃 Again mere words！ words！ For whoever stood in mid…air？
Still another calls it 〃the most ineffable thing that exists within the range of man；〃 and later explains when he stands on the brink of it； 〃And where the Grand Canyon begins； words stop。〃 Yet he goes on and uses about four more pages of words； and pictures after words have stopped； to tell what he felt and saw。 And the remarkable thing is that his experience is that of all the wisest men who have ever seen it。 They know they cannot describe it； but they proceed to exhaust their vocabularies in talking about it； and in trying to make clear to others what they saw and felt。 And in this very fact what a wonderful tribute lies to the power of the Canyon； that a wise and prudent man is led to strive to do what he vows he will not do； and knows he cannot do。
One well…known poet exclaims： 〃It was like sudden death。〃 yet she is still alive。 Again； after breakfast； she wrote： 〃My courage rose to meet the greatness of the world。〃 Then she 〃crawled half prostrate〃 to the barest and highest rocks she could find on the rim； and confessed： 〃It made a coward of me； I shrank and shut my eyes； and felt crushed and beaten under the intolerable burden of the flesh。 For humanity intrudes here； in these warm and glowing purple spaces disembodied spirits must range and soar； souls purged and purified and infinitely daring。〃 Yet here I have heard the wild brayings of hungry mules and the worse ravings of angry mennone of them impressed as was the soul of the poet。
One money…making business man declared that he went to the rim at night…time； and when he and his friends reached the spot they put forth their hands and found〃an absolute end。 We clutched vainly at black space。 To fathom this space we thrust over a big stone。 No sound came back。 The pit was bottomlessthe grave of the world。 The mystery fascinated； the void beckoned。 We scarcely knew why we did not obey the summonswhy we did not abandon the present； and； by following the big stone； escape to the future。〃 And yet he had no urgent creditors bothering him。 His financial position was secure and unquestioned。 His family relations were all that could be desired。 Wonderful； indeed； that a mere feature of natural scenery could have led him to wonder why he didn't leave all the luxuries and certainties of life； and leap into the unknown future！ Yet that is just the way the Canyon affected a sober business man of steady judgment。
A well…known writer declares： 〃It is a paradox of chaos and repose； of gloom and radiance； of immeasurable desolation and enthralling beauty。 It is a despair and a joy； a woe and an ecstasy； a requiem and a hallelujah； a world…ruin and a world…gloryeverything in antithesis of such titanic sort。〃 I agree with him； and regard his expressions as indicative of my own sensations。
Yet； when a reverend gentleman calls it a 〃delirium of nature；〃 I cannot agree with him。 The delirium might be in his own mind； but there is no delirium here。 Neither does it seem to me that a certain university president expresses things with any more wisdom or effectiveness； when he says that it 〃impressed him with its infinite laziness。〃 Lazy？ When once； in the far…distant past； after rising from the primeval sea； it sank back again and deposited twelve thousand feet of strata； then lifted them out into the sunshine； carved eleven thousand feet of them away； and sent them dashing down the river to fill up the Gulf of California and make the Mohave and Colorado Deserts？ Lazy？ When； after that was done； it sank again； and allowed a thousand feet of Cambrian to be deposited； then two thousand feet of Carboniferous； then Permian； Triassic； Jurassic and Cretaceous； until the three thousand feet were increased to two miles of deposits。 Then it began to lift itself up again。 Lazy？ When lifting up two miles' thickness of strata for the clouds and their children to carve away？ And it lifted and lifted； until it destroyed a vast Eocene lake； which covered as large an area as perhaps half a dozen Eastern States； and at the same time carried away about twelve thousand feet of strata。 Lazy？ When you consider that from north to south； for a hundred or more miles； the whole region has been heaving and tossing； curving and buckling； arching and crumpling its strata； faulting by rising； faulting by sinking； until the geologist who would study the faults finds； in the area of one half…mile； near the mouth of Shinumo Creek； his work for a lifetime cut out for him。
No！ No！ Mr。 College President！ You must look more fully。 You must guess again！ The Canyon is not lazy。 It is merely a gigantic natural representation of yourself。 You are the embodiment of energy of body； mind and soul； yet you are never seen hurried or disturbed。 You have the serenity of genius。 So with the Canyon。 It has done and is doing great things。 It has been a persistent worker during the millions of years of its existence； but it has the calm serenity of consciousness of strength。 What you took to be laziness is the restfulness of divine power。
When First Seen。 These are some of the effects the Canyon has upon men。 I once walked up to the rim with a lawyer； who to…day is one of the foremost figures of the San Francisco bar； a man of lion…like courage and almost reckless bravery。 At the first glimpse he fell on his knees； clasped me around mine； and begged me to take him away； declaring that a gift of all Arizona would not lead him to take another glimpse into its awesome depths。
I know of one lady who； for weeks afterwards； would wake up almost every night； and feel herself falling into the fathomless gorge。
Yet the next day the lawyer went with me down to the river； and to this day declares it was the 〃most memorable trip of his life；〃 while the timid lady； to my own
