the grand canyon of arizona-第20章

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e　course　was　at　once　dammed　up；　and　the　river　rose　sixty　feet　in　one　hour　before　the　principal　mass　of　rock　was　made　topheavy　by　the　power　of　the　flood。　Then　it　rolled　over　with　the　force　of　the　millions　of　tons　of　water　behind　it；　and　crumbled　as　it　rolled。　The　mighty　wave　dashed　on；　carrying　everything　before　it。　In　less　than　another　hour　the　rock　mass　had　disappeared；　and　the　water　had　resumed　its　normal　level。　A　rise　of　fifty　to　seventy　feet　is　not　so　very　unusual　in　the　heart　of　the　gorge；　where　it　is　narrow　and　the　waters　would　necessarily　pile　up。　To　see　such　a　rise；　without　any　evidence　of　a　rain　above；　is　a　wonderful　experience　that　one　occasionally　enjoys。

Snow　on　the　Rim。　Another　remarkable　contrast　is　observed　by　winter　tourists。　On　the　rim　at　El　Tovar；　Grand　View；　or　Bass　Camp　snow　may　fall　during　December；　January　and　February；　and　sometimes　in　March；　though　it　quickly　disappears。　This　is　not　surprising　when　one　considers　the　high　altitudes。　The　weather　is　then　sometimes　quite　frigid；　but　it　is　a　dry　cold　which　rapidly　yields　to　the　warm　midday　sun。　Do　not　imagine　from　this　general　statement　that　winter；　as　we　know　it　in　the　East；　is　the　usual　thing　at　the　Canyon。　Quite　the　reverse。　There　are　more　sunshiny；　warm；　windless；　stormless　and　no…snow　days　than　otherwise；　taking　one　year　with　another。　Real　winter　weather　often　stays　away　until　well　into　January。　Some　years　it　is　a　negligible　quantity。　At　no　time　need　it　be　feared　by　the　traveller。

Trails　in　Winter。　The　trails　for　half　a　mile；　or　even　a　mile；　down　into　the　Canyon；　during　a　part　of　the　winter；　are　sometimes　covered　with　light　snow。　As　soon　as　the　snow　line　is　passed；　the　climate　begins　to　change。　The　cold　is　less　penetrating；　and　by　and　by　one　enters　what　might　be　called　a　temperate　zone。　Warmer　and　more　comfortable　it　becomes；　until；　on　reaching　the　river；　the　word　〃delicious〃　alone　conveys　the　rich　sense　of　satisfaction　that　one　feels　all　over　the　body　in　the　delightful　sensation　experienced。　No　time　is　so　agreeable　for　a　long　stay　in　the　depths　of　the　Canyon　as　in　the　heart　of　winter。　A　semi…tropical　climate　below；　while　above；　within　three　hours　easy　ride；　a　snowy　winter　may　be　reigning　supreme！

Winter　in　the　Canyon。　Robert　Brewster　Stanton；　who　made　his　successful　trip　through　the　Canyon　in　wintertime；　comments　on　this　as　follows：　〃It　has　been　the　fortune　of　but　few　to　travel　along　the　bottom　of　the　great　chasm　for　a　whole　winter；　while　around　you　bloom　the　sweet　flowers；　and　southern　birds　sing　on　almost　every　bush；　and　at　the　same　time　far　above；　among　the　upper　cliffs；　rage　and　roar；　like　demons　in　the　air；　the　grandest　and　most　terrific　storms　of　wind　and　snow　and　sleet　that　I　have　ever　witnessed；　even　above　the　clouds　among　the　summit　peaks　of　the　Rocky　Mountains。〃

Change　in　the　Flora。　This　climatic　diversity　above　and　below　is　noticeable　all　through　the　year　to　the　man　or　woman　of　sharp　eyes；　in　the　difference　of　the　flowers；　the　shrubs；　and　the　trees。　Above　are　the　pines；　the　cedars；　and　junipers　of　the　cooler　climes。　The　further　down　one　goes；　the　greater　the　change　becomes。　The　pines　drop　out；　then　the　cedars　and　junipers；　and　when　one　reaches　the　patches　of　growth　in　the　lowest　depths；　the　agave；　and　other　plants　and　flowers　that　we　find　only　in　semi…tropical　climates　here　grow　profusely。

Indian　Garden。　Another　difference　between　the　〃above〃　and　the　〃below〃　is　found　in　the　fact　that　a　garden　is　almost　unknown　on　the　rim；　and　that　there　are　many　down　below。　On　the　Bright　Angel　Trail　is　the　Indian　Garden；　where；　for　many　years；　the　Havasupais　used　to　cultivate　their　corn；　beans；　onions　and　melons。　Along　the　Shinumo；　on　the　north　side；　Mr。　Bass　has　a　garden　where　all　these　things　grow；　where　peaches；　plums；　grapes；　and　apricots　have　thriven　abundantly；　and　where　now　he　is　planting　figs；　lemons；　oranges　and　grape…fruit。　The　Havasupais；　in　the　depths　of　their　Canyon；　grow　the　finest；　largest　and　most　tender　corn　in　the　world；　peaches　and　figs　galore；　and　all　the　ordinary　vegetables。　Boucher　also　has　fruit　and　vegetables　on　the　level　near　the　river；　on　his　trail。　At　Lee's　Ferry　also；　Elder　Emet　has　his　gardens　and　orchards；　as　well　as　fine　alfalfa　fields。　Nothing　is　more　delightful　than　to　come；　after　a　hot　journey　down　the　trail；　to　these　unexpected　oases　in　the　heart　of　the　canyons。

Soil　on　the　River　and　in　the　Canyon。　The　soil　of　the　〃above；〃　too；　largely　differs　from　the　soil　of　the　〃below。〃　On　the　plateaus　above；　there　are　millions　of　acres；　most　of　which　careful　examination　shows　to　be　covered　with　disintegrated　rock　and　comparatively　little　vegetable　soil；　except　below　the　surface。　The　winds　and　rains　have　carried　away　the　softer　and　lighter　soil；　and　allowed　the　heavier　and　harder　rocks　to　remain。　This　process　goes　on　all　the　time。　In　the　depths　of　the　Canyon；　however；　except　on　the　steeper　slopes；　the　soil　remains。

The　Silence　on　the　Rim。　A　remarkable　contrast　between　the　rim　and　the　Canyon　is　sometimes　found　in　the　absolute　silence　above；　and　the　roar　of　the　river　below。　It　often　occurs　that　not　a　sound　of　any　kind　can　be　heard　on　the　rim　but　one's　breathing　and　the　beating　of　his　own　heart。　One　morning　I　lay　for　an　hour　before　I　arose；　and　during　the　whole　of　that　time；　though　I　listened　again　and　again；　not　the　slightest　sound　reached　my　ears　save　the　two　named。

Song　of　the　River。　Now　descend　to　the　river　and；　day　or　night；　early　or　late；　June　or　December；　hot　or　cold；　wet　or　dry；　fair　or　stormy；　the　roar　and　rush；　fret　and　fume　of　the　water　is　never　out　of　one's　ears。　Even　when　asleep　it　seems　to　〃seep〃　in　through　the　benumbed　senses；　and　tell　of　its　never…ending　flow。　After　a　few　weeks　of　it；　one　comes　away　and　finds　he　cannot　sleep。　He　misses　it　and　finds　himself　unable　to　sleep　away　from　the　accustomed　noise。

The　Wind。　In　nothing　is　the　difference　of　〃above〃　and　〃below〃　more　marked　than　in　the　wind。　Last　night　on　the　rim　the　wind　blew　almost　a　gale。　The　pines　sang　loudly；　and　one　could　hear　their　roar　for　miles。　A　dozen　times　I　awoke　and　listened　to　their　weird　music。　If　you　go　outdoors；　the　wind　plays　with　your　hair；　and　tosses　garments　to　and　fro　with　frolicsome　glee；　or　even；　at　times；　with　apparent　angry　fury。　There　are　times　when　the　wind　comes　toward　you；　on　the　rim；　with　a　rapidity　and　force　that　are　startling。　Every　one　has　had　the　experience　of　hearing　a　military　band　approaching　from　a　distance。

As　it　comes　nearer；　the　sound　grows　louder　and　louder；　and　if　it　approaches　with　great　rapidity；　as　for　instance；　in　an　automobile　or　a　speeding　electric　car；　the　music　assails　the　ear　with　an　increasing　force　that　is　a　surprise。　It　is　just　so　with　the　noises　of　the　wind　at　the　rim　of　the　Canyon。

Now　leave　the　rim　and　walk　down　the　trail　a　couple　of　rods。　All　is　quiet　and　still。　The　change　is　startling　m　its　suddenness。　The　wind　may　be　blowing　far　above　you；　and　if　you　listen；　you　will　hear　its　effect　in　the　trees；　but　here；　where　you　stand；　you　are　protected　and　sheltered。

Diversity　of　Color。　Perhaps　the　greatest　difference　between　the　rim　and　the　interior　of　the　Canyon　is　found　in　the　diversity　in　color　and　feature　between　them。　While　there　is　a　fascination　to　the　long；　wide　stretches　of　plateau　on　the　rim；　and　the　forest　has　its　attractive　points；　there　are　not　many　prominent　features　（looking　away　from　the　Canyon）　that　would　occupy　the　attention　of　travellers。　There　is　little　striking　in　color；　in　scenery；　in　rocky　contour。　Plains；　trees；　sky；　clouds；　sunset；and　nearly　all　is　said。　But　immediately　one　stands　on　the　rim　and　looks　below；　all　is　changed。　Here　is　feature　after　feature　that　compels　not　only　attention　but　reverent　homage。　Color　such　as　is　seen　nowhere　else　in　the　world　on　such　a　grand　scale；　massive　walls　that　have　no　counterpart；　rock　forms　that　dazzle　and　bewilder；　and　an　unfoldment　of　the　stone　book　of　creation　that　is　alike　a　joy　and　a　pain；　a　delight　and　a　sorrow；　a　something　seen　at　a　glance；　and　that　requires　a　lifetime　to　comprehend。



CHAPTER　XV。　The　Hopi　House

The　Harvey　Collection　at　El　Tovar。　In　the　Hopi　House；　opposite　the　El　Tovar　entrance；　is　installed　one　of　the　most　interesting　Indian　collections　of　the　world；a　collection　that　would　grace　the　National　Museum　of　Great　Britain；　France　or　Germany。　The　more　intelligent　the　visitor　to　the　Grand　Canyon；　the　more　he　will　find　he　can　learn　in　this　wonderful　storehouse　provided　for　his　instruction　and　recreation。

The　Hopi　House。　The　building　itself　is　a　perfect　model　of　a　block　in　the　village　of　Oraibi；　one　of　the　seven　Hopi　pueblos。　It　is　three　stories　high；　and　contains　many　rooms。　The　original　is　supposed　to　accommodate　forty…five　families。　It　is　built　of　the　chips　of　sandstone　and　other　rock　in　accordance　with　Hopi　custom；　rudely　and　irregularly　laid　in　mortar。　It　is　of　the　terraced　style　of　architecture；　each　story　receding　from　the　one　below　it；　so　that　the　〃second　story　front〃　finds　a　ready　courtyard　on　the　roof　of　the　〃first　story　front；〃　and　the　〃third　story　front〃　on　that　of　the　〃second　story　front。〃

Houses　that　were　Forts。　In　the　old　houses；　found　when　the　white　man　first　visited　the　pueblos；　there　was　no　means　of　entrance　to　the　first　stories　save　by　means　of　the　ladders　which　stood　outside　against　the　walls；　and　thence　through　hatchways　made　in　the　roofs。　This　was　for　the　purpose　of　defence　against　hostile　tribes；　who　were　constantly　warring　with　these　home…loving　Indians　in　order　that　they　might　steal　from　them　the　fruits　of　their　persistent　labor　and　thrift。　The　ladder；　during　times　of　expected　attack；　could　be　lifted　upon　the　second　story；　out　of　reach；　and　thus　these　houses　became　the　forts　of　their　inhabitants。　Nowadays　entrances　are　provided　on　the　ground　floor；　and　this　house　at　El　Tovar　follows　the　modern　custom；　as　well　as　the　later　innovation　（which　of　course　is　essential　in　this　building）　of　using　glass　for　windows。　For　convenience　and　safety；　another　anachronism　is　tolerated　in　the　electric　light。　In　practically　everything　else；　the　building　is　a　true　model　of　a　Hopi　community　house。　With　these　people；　the　women　are　generally　and　mainly　the　builders　of　the　houses；　the　men　merely　assisting　in　the　heavier　work。

Quaint　Stairways。　In　addition　to　the　quaint　ladders；　quainter　steps；　cut　into　flat　or　round　trunks　of　cottonwood　trees；　are　used。　Stone　steps　connecting　the　two　upper　stories；　are　also　built　outside　in　the　partition　walls。　The　chimneys　are　constructed；　in　true　pueblo　fashion；　of　pottery　water　ollas；　the　bottoms　of　which　have　been　broken　out。　Three　or　more　of　these；　fastened　with　cement　or　mortar；　are　placed　one　above　another。　On　the　roofs　are　wood　piles；　as　at　Oraibi；　and　also　picturesque　strings　of　red　peppers　drying　in　the　sun。

Navaho　Silversmith。　The　entrance　doorway　is　low；　and　the　steps　lead　one　down　into　the　first　room；　in　true　Oraibi　style。　This　room　is　occupied　by　the　Tinne　peshlikai；　or　Navaho　silversmith；　and　Navaho　blanket　weavers。　The　smith；　though　using　some　modern　tools；　still　follows　the　time…honored　methods　of　his　brother　craftsmen。　The　silverware　he　makes　will　be　more　fully　described　in　the　special　chapter　devoted　to　the　subject；　as　will　also　the　blanket　weaving　of　his　wife　and　children。

Details　of　Construction。　In　this　room　there　are　several　features　of　interest。　First　no