the grand canyon of arizona-第26章

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At　the　end　of　that　fierce　race　across　the　hot　sands　and　up　the　steep　mesa；　the　winner　exultantly　stands　before　the　chief　priests。　The　lightning　bearer　then　throws　the　zigzag　symbols　over　him；　and　rain　clouds　are　pictured　at　his　feet。　Then　he　is　hurried　on　to　the　antelope　kiva；　where　another　priest　gives　to　him　the　sacred　gourd　full　of　water　and　a　sack　full　of　sacred　meal；　with　certain　ceremonial　prayer　sticks；　which；　placed　and　used　in　his　cornfield；　ensure　to　him　an　extra　fine　crop　at　the　next　harvest。

In　the　meantime；　a　number　of　young　men　and　boys　have　followed　the　rest　of　the　racers；　bearing　in　their　hands　cornstalks；　melon　vines　and　fruit。　As　soon　as　they　reach　the　level　mesa　top；　the　women　and　girls　dart　upon　them；　and　a　most　good…natured　but　exciting　scuffle　takes　place。　For　five　to　ten　minutes　this　scramble　lasts；　and　when　every　corn　or　vine　carrier　is　rid　of　his　gifts；　the　play　is　at　an　end；　and　all　retire　to　await　the　great　event　of　the　whole　ceremony；the　open…air　dance；　when　the　deadly　reptiles　are　carried　in　the　mouths　of　the　priests。

Preparation　for　Snake　Dance。　At　noon　a　secret　ceremony　takes　place　in　the　dark　recesses　of　the　kiva；　viz。：　the　washing　of　the　elder　brothers　（as　the　snakes　are　called）；　which　I　have　fully　described　in　〃The　Indians　of　the　Painted　Desert　Region。〃　When　the　afternoon　shadows　lengthen；　every　available　place　in　the　dance　plaza　is　speedily　occupied　by　the　villagers　and　visitors；　who　wait　the　march　of　the　antelope　priests。　The　photographers　present　must　keep　within　a　certain　line。

Arrival　of　Snake　Priests。　After　circling　in　front　of　the　kisi　（a　cottonwood　bower　in　which　the　snakes　are　kept）　the　antelope　priests　line　up　with　their　faces　fronting　from　the　kisi。　There　they　sing　and　dance　awhile；　waiting　for　the　snake　priests。　These　come　from　their　kiva　to　the　south　of　the　dance　plaza；　and；　as　they　arrive；　all　sounds　are　hushed　and　all　attention　concentrated　upon　them。　They　circle　before　the　kisi；　and　then　line　up　facing　the　antelope　priests。

Appearance　of　Priests。　Some　people　say　they　are　hideous；　others　have　said；　with　me；　that　the　sight　is　sublime。　If　one　looks　merely　at　the　half…nude　bodies；　made　repulsive　by　a　coating　of　reddish　black　paint；　with　dabs　of　whitewash　in　several　places；　at　their　faces　painted　with　the　reddish　black　stuff；　at　the　strings　of　white　beads　around　their　necks；　and　the　snake　whips　in　their　hands；　then　indeed　it　is　easy　to　say　that　they　are　hideous。　But　if　one　looks　at　their　faces；　he　will　see　intense　earnestness；　deep　solemnity；　profound　dignity；　and　unflinching　belief　in　the　necessity　for　and　power　of　the　prayer　about　to　be　offered。　Then；　too；　with　what　simple；　trustful　bravery　they　handle　the　snakes；　when　that　part　of　the　ceremony　comes！　They　know　the　danger；　no　one　more　so。　Indeed；　if　a　priest　is　afraid；　he　is　not　allowed　to　participate。　Not　only　would　his　fear　prevent　his　own　proper　worship；　but　it　would　interfere　with　that　of　his　comrades。

Variety　of　Snakes。　There　were　few　snakes　at　Oraibi；　the　year　I　last　saw　the　dance　there；　but　those　they　had　were　active　and　vicious。　There　were　several　rattlers；　some　red　racers；　and　a　few　bull　snakes。　The　light　was　good；　and　several　first…class　photographs　were　made　which　actually　show　the　snakes　in　the　mouths　of　the　priests。　At　the　Snake　Dance　in　the　other　villages；　the　priest　swings　the　snake　out　of　his　mouth；　and　allows　it　to　fall。　Here；　I　noticed　that　every　snake　was　gently　placed　upon　the　ground　by　the　priest　who　had　been　carrying　it　in　his　mouth。　The　antelope　men　never　leave　their　line；　during　the　handling　of　the　snakes。　They　continue　to　sing　during　the　whole　performance。

Purification　of　Priests。　While　waiting　for　the　priests　to　return；　after　taking　the　snakes　into　the　valley；　I　learned　of　several　slight　changes；　owing　to　changed　circumstances。　The　rain　had　made　numerous　small　pools　at　the　top　of　the　mesa。　The　priests；　in　returning；　divested　themselves　of　all　their　ceremonial　paraphernalia；　and　washed　the　paint　from　their　bodies；　before　returning　to　the　kiva　and　drinking　the　emetic。　Generally；　they　have　gone　to　their　homes　at　Oraibi　or　at　Walpi；　have　had　the　women　bring　water　to　the　west　side　of　the　mesa；　and　there　washed　themselves。



CHAPTER　XX。　An　Historic　Trail　Across　The　Grand　Canyon　Country

The　Old　Hopi　Trail。　One　of　the　most　noted　aboriginal　trails　in　the　western　United　States；　is　the　old　Hopi　（generally　called　Moki）　trail；　leading　from　the　seven　villages　of　the　Hopi　and　their　agricultural　offshoot；　Moenkopi；　to　the　Canyon　of　the　Havasupais。　This　was　the　trail　followed　by　Lieut。　Frank　Hamilton　Cushingthe　noted　ethnologist　when　he　visited　these　Kuhne　kiwes　while　he　was　living　at　the　interesting　pueblo　of　Zuni；　in　New　Mexico。　I　have　made　the　whole　trip　from　Hopiland　to　the　Havasupais　and　back　twice；　and　have　ridden　for　many　years　over　small　portions　of　the　trail。　It　is　intimately　connected　with　the　history　of　two　of　the　people　seen　most　at　the　Canyon。　According　to　one　of　the　Havasupai　legends；　the　Hopis　and　Havasupais　are　descended　from　twin　brothers。　Hence　they　have　always　been　friendly　and　have　traded　continuously　the　products　of　their　own　manufacture。　The　Hopis　exchange　their　horses；　sheep；　and　burros；　laden　with　blankets；　pottery　and　silverware；　for　buckskin；　Havasupai　baskets　（which　they　prize　very　highly）；　dried　peaches；　etc。

Originally　this　was　a　foot　trail；　then　horses；　burros　and　mules　were　used；　and　now；　in　some　portions　of　its　distance；　notably　from　Moenkopi　to　Oraibi；　it　is　used　for　wagons。

A　Six　Day　Journey。　Let　us　leave　the　home　of　the　Havasupais　and　go　on　a　visit　to　the　Hopis。　Our　trip　into　Havasu　Canyon　is　described　in　another　chapter。　I　discussed　the　matter　with　several　of　the　leading　Havasupais；　and　they　told　me　that　the　trip　will　be　arduous　and　long。　How　long？　Five；　six　days！

A　Side　Trail。　But　before　starting　I　decided　to　see　one　of　the　outlets　to　Havasu　Canyon；　that　used　to　be　a　part　of　the　old　trail；　and　that　was　used　as　an　inlet　when　General　Crook　and　his　soldiers　came　there。　The　trail　is　called　after　a　spring　bearing　the　name　Pack…a…tha…true…ye…ba。　Never　did　I　have　such　a　sense　of　the　maze　of　canyons　contained　in　this　system　of　canyons　as　on　that　trip。　My　guide　was　Sinyela；　one　of　the　most　intelligent　Indians　of　the　whole　tribe。　We　left　the　Havasupai　village　early　one　morning；　each　riding　an　Indian　pony；　with　all　the　provisions　we　thought　we　should　need　on　our　saddles。　After　awhile；　we　entered　a　side　canyon　I　had　never　before　explored。　During　the　whole　of　that　day　we　toiled；　riding　as　hard　as　we　could　over　the　almost　trackless　canyon　floor；　trailing　through　deep　sand；　climbing　over　masses　of　boulders　that　freshets　or　cloud…bursts　had。　piled　between　the　walls；　forcing　our　way　through　dense　willows；　scratched　by　thickets　of　mesquites。　Again　and　again　in　the　walls　were　seen　cliff…dwellings　and　corn　storage　houses。　The　heat　was　intense；　and　radiated　from　the　precipitous　walls　on　either　side。

The　Camp　at　Night。　When　night　came；　we　ate　our　frugal　meal；　our　horses　standing　by　waiting　to　be　hobbled　and　turned　loose。　For　beds；　we　had　the　nearest　layer　of　sand　we　could　find；　with　our　saddles　for　pillows。

Suffering　from　Thirst。　Early　in　the　morning　we　started　again；　winding　and　curving　with　the　course　of　the　Canyon。　For　nearly　two　days　we　had　been　without　fresh　water；　and　the　little　we　had　brought　in　our　wicker…woven；　pinion…gum…covered　esuwas　had　to　suffice　for　our　needs。　Suddenly　we　entered　a　vast　amphitheatre；　with　a　rude　arch　at　the　end。　It　was　flower…covered；　with　occasional　trees；　and　here；　hidden　from　any　but　the　view　of　an　Indian；　was　found　a　tiny　spring　of　coolest；　purest　water。　How　we　enjoyed　it！

A　Dangerous　Slope。　On　the　third　day；　we　came　to　the　place　where　the　soldiers　descended　from　the　plateau　above　into　the　depths　of　the　Canyon。　There　was　no　well…defined　trail；　and　the　slope　was　steep　enough　to　make　one's　flesh　creep。　The　site　was　marked　with　disaster。　Here　a　pack　mule　had　slipped；　fallen；　and　been　dashed　to　pieces；　there　a　man　had　fallen　and　been　killed。　It　was　a　difficult　descent；　but　nerve　and　pluck　had　accomplished　it。　Beyond　was　the　Pack…a…tha…true…ye…ba　Spring；　and　after　seeing　its　water　I　determined　that　we　must　return。

Capturing　Wild　Ponies。　On　our　way　back；　Sinyela　made　a　proposition　that；　as　our　ponies　were　exceedingly　weary；　we　catch　some　fresh　ones　of　his；　for　this　was　his　〃stock　range；〃　and　he　knew　where　there　were　plenty　of　good　animals。　The　horses　were　wild；　as　range　horses　generally　are；　but　Sinyela　was　crafty。　He　knew　of　a　blind　ravine；　or　rocky　pocket；　into　which　we　could　drive　the　horses　we　needed；　and　to　that　end　all　our　energies　were　directed。　Darting　back　and　forth　to　arrest　the　dodging　and　fleeing　animals；　we　at　length　succeeded　in　〃penning〃　about　a　dozen　horses　in　the　pocket。　Then　I　watched　Sinyela；　hand　extended；　slowly　and　stealthily　approach　the　pony　he　needed。　Time　and　again；　as　he　got　nearer　and　nearer；　all　the　time　making　a　peculiar　sissing　sound；　the　horse　would　suddenly　swing　around　and　endeavor　to　dash　away。　But　I　was　〃guard　of　the　gate；〃　and　it　was　my　business　to　see　that　none　of　the　band　escaped。　It　took　us　fully　two　hours　to　catch　the　two　horses。　At　last　they　were　ours。　Neither　was　well　broken；　though　both　had　been　ridden；　and　the　first　thing　Sinyela　did　was　to　blindfold　them。　The　saddles　were　removed　from　our　jaded　ponies；　and　placed　upon　the　new　ones。　The　starts　of　terror　and　anger　showed　what　we　had　ahead　of　us。　Bridles　were　adjusted；　and　then；　with　our　fresh　ponies　still　blindfolded；　we　sprang　into　our　saddles。　When　our　feet　were　firmly　placed　and　all　was　ready；　we　lifted　the　blinds　from　the　horses'　eyes　and　then　braced　ourselves。　Digging　our　heels　into　the　ponies'　sides；　off　we　started；　at　a　jerking；　bounding；　half…bucking　pace。　Shouting　directions　to　each　other；　helter…skelter；　over　and　around　boulders；　we　dashed　along　as　if　we　were　after　the　hounds　on　a　genuine　old…fashioned　fox…hunt。　I　suppose　we　kept　it　up　a　full　hour；　at　topmost　speed。　The　horses　didn't　want　to　stop；　and　Sinyela　knew　that　the　best　way　to　break　them　was　to　let　them　have　their　own　way。　But　before　the　day　was　over；　the　ponies　were　considerably　tamed　down；　and　it　was　a　weary　band　that　stopped　for　camp　that　night。　The　animals　were　duly　hobbled　and　turned　loose；　I　lit　a　camp　fire；　though　we　had　nothing　to　cook　and　no　kettle　for　boiling　water；　and　dirty；　dusty；　with　every　nerve　and　fibre　of　my　body　weary　and　aching；　I　finally　stretched　out　on　the　solid　earth　and　wooed　〃balmy　sleep。〃　The　ride　was　resumed　next　day。　We　finally　got　ourselves　to　Sinyela's　camp　in　safety；　where　a　sweat…bath　and　a　swim　in　the　delicious　waters　of　Havasu　fully　rested　us。

The　Hopi　Trail　Ascent。　We　decided　to　leave　Havasu　Canyon　by　way　of　the　〃Make〃　Trail。　This　is　the　same　trail　as　that　described　in　the　chapter　on　the　descent　into　Havasu　Canyon　from　El　Tovar；　as　far　up　as　the　point　where　the　pictured　rocks　appear。　Here　the　Hopi　trail　turns　and　follows　the　course　of　the　main　Havasu　Canyon。　Cushing　counted　forty…four　knots　in　his　buckskin　fringe　from　the　village　to　the　exit；　each　knot　denoting　an　abrupt　curve　or　angle　in　the　winding　canyons。　The　Topocobya　Trail　descends　a　sheer　cliff　of　stupendous　majesty；　and　the　Wallapai　Trail　is　enough　to　shatter　the　nervous　system　of　any　but　the