the grand canyon of arizona-第29章
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oon seated upon a new horse。 Now he becomes the pursued； and two bands； instead of one； of howling； raving； shouting demons； occupy the attention。
Finish of Contest。 And thus the struggle goes on； good…naturedly； yet with a fierceness of energy that is exhausting in its wild excitement； exhausting to the onlooker； as well as the participant。 When the unlucky bird is all dismembered； and the racers smeared from head to heels with blood； and it seems impossible to divide the pieces any smaller； then； and not till then； the conflict ceases。
Two Thousand Horsemen。 But for superb riding watch nearly two thousand of these sons of the desert as they train their young men and boys in daring control of their horses。 The greatest chief of the Navahos is a good friend of mine； and it was by his kind invitation that I was privileged to see this never…to…be…forgotten sight。 He commanded the 〃regiment〃shall I call it？riding alongside at times； and again standing where he could signal his demands and note the result。
An Exhibition of Riding。 Let us stand with him。 These riders are about to dash past。 Just before they reach us； a signal is given； and every rider； in an instant； disappears over the side of his mount； while the horses continue running under perfect control。 Simultaneously； every Indian reappears upon his saddle； sits about as long as one might count three； and then slides over to our side of his horse； fully in our sight； holding on by stirrup and mane； but completely hidden from one who might be looking from the other side。
Wonderful Agility。 The chief was delighted； in his dignified quiet way； as I burst into warm encomiums； and told me I should soon see 〃some more〃 riding。 Again the horsemen dashed past。 This time I watched for their disappearance and saw where and how they went； but I was scarcely prepared to see many of them peeping at me from under the bellies of their animals。 This was done several times； then Pacoda gave me another treat。 The riders came toward us。 At a sign； every man sprang from his horse to the ground； to our left； gave three or four wild jumps； sprang completely over the saddle to the other side of his horse； where he gave more jumps； and then； with a yell of joyful triumph； landed into his saddle； the horse； meanwhile； keeping up his speed。
An Impressive Spectacle。 But to see the whole party ride furiously away from us； nothing but black hair； sturdy backs； horses' tails and hindquarters with galloping feet presented； and then； in the twinkle of an eye it almost seemed； to have the same party dashing towards you； was a feat in horsemanship which impressed me most profoundly。
Horsemen almost from Birth。 It is not to be wondered at that the Navaho is an expert horseman。 He is as nearly born on horseback； literally； as he can be； for on several occasions I have ridden with Navaho friends； among whom was an expectant mother； have stopped half an hour for the birth； and then； with the new…born babe strapped on the mother's back； have resumed the trip； completing； perhaps； forty or fifty miles in a day。 Children born under such conditions could not fail to be skilful horsemen。
CHAPTER XXII。 From El Tovar To The Havasupai Indians And Their Wonderful Cataract Canyon Homes
Havasu Canyon。 The Grand Canyon has two important tributary canyons。 The most important of these is the Havasu Chic…i…mi…mi （canyon of the blue water）。 This is where the Havasupai Indians live。
First White Visitor。 The first white man to visit the Havasu； as far as we know； was Padre Francisco Garces； of whom I have written in another chapter。 Four times he made long journeys into the interior； visiting a large number of Indian tribes。 Among these were the Wallapais and the Havasupais。
Garces' Diary。 Dr。 Elliott Coues； who visited the Havasupais in 1881 with a governmental party； has translated Garces' diary； and it was published a short time ago by Francis P。 Harper； of New York。 In this translation； he describes the descent of his （Coues's） party into the Canyon； and his description is so vivid that it is well worth repetition here。
Dr。 Coues' Description of Trail to Havasu Canyon。 〃On the 10th； a march of ten miles in the same direction brought us abruptly to the brink of the precipicea sharp…edged jump…off of perhaps a thousand feet。 There was no side canyon here for gradual descent； the firm level ground gave no hint of the break before us until we were actually upon the verge； and when the soldiers lined up to look down an involuntary murmur of astonishment ran through the ranks。 Dismounting and going in single file； each man leading his horse； we took the dizzy traila narrow footpath； in many parts of which a misstep would have been destruction to man or beast。 The way zigzagged at first for some distance； on the 'switchback' principle by which railroads sometimes make grades otherwise impracticable； the face of the precipice was so steep that； as we filed along； those of us at the head of the procession looked up to see the other sections of the train almost overhead； certainly a fall of any man there would have been right on top of us。 Then the trail took a long lurch to the left with little descent； hugging the face of the cliff； and we looked like a row of ants on a wall。 This brought us at length to the head of a great talus； down which the trail zigzaggedthe incline was too steep for straight descent； probably at an angle of forty…five degrees。 This fetched us into the bed of Cataract Canyon； perfectly dry。 The trail was nearly a mile long； and it took us an hour to make our creepy way down。 The Havasupai chief； who had been advised of our coming； was there to meet us with some of his men； all mounted； and he took us up the canyon about five miles to a place where there was a scanty aguage； not sufficing for the wants of the whole party。 Next morning we retraced our steps down the canyon and kept on in its bed until we reached the wonderful blue spring above described and the wonderful rancheria of the Indians； a distance from last night's camp of about twenty…five miles； as we had struck the canyon some twenty miles above the living water。〃
Other Trails to the Canyon。 Garces came into the canyon by another trail； entirely distinct from this； commonly known as the Wallapai Trail。 He left Havasu Canyon by still another trail； known as the Moki Trail； which leads directly from this canyon to the home of the Hopis。
In 1857； Lieutenant Joseph C。 Ives made the descent into Havasu Canyon down the Wallapai Trail。 His account of the journey reads like a novel； and people who are unfamiliar with the wonderful engineering feats of the Havasu Indians can scarcely believe that Ives did not allow his imagination to run away with him； in his descriptions of the Havasupais' trails。
Later； Lieutenant Cushing； guided by his Indian friends； rode across country to the Hopis； and then secured a Hopi guide who took him to see the Havasupais over the Moki Trail。 He confirms all that Ives and Coues have written of the astonishing character of these trails。 Having been up and down these trails many times during the last dozen years； I can say without hesitation that there are no more startling trails to be found in our Southwest。
Trip from El Tovar。 One of the most enjoyable of the more arduous trips taken by visitors to El Tovar is this trip to Havasu （Cataract） Canyon。 Only those who enjoy a strenuous outing should arrange for this trip； and then plenty of time should be allowed to do it without too great rushing。 The first portion； to the head of the Topocobya Trail； is generally done in a buckboard。 The distance is thirty…five to forty miles； over a varying road；good in places； fair in others； and wretchedly poor now and again。 Arrived at the 〃hill…top；〃 as the Indians call this point； the conveyance must be abandoned； and all the outfit for sleeping； cooking； and eating is transferred to the backs of pack animals； which have been sent on ahead。 The visitors take saddle animals。 There are those who make this drive； and then ride to the village； fifteen miles further down the trail； in one day。 A better plan is either to make 〃dry camp〃 at the head of the Topocobya Trail； or； if time permits； descend to the Topocobya Spring； which flows out of the base of the immense cliff down which one fork of the trail descends。 For there are now two ways of descending at Topocobya；to the right or the left of a mountain which overlooks the Canyon。 The trail by which I first entered Havasu Canyon is the one to the left； looking into the Canyon。
Topocobya Spring。 Arrived at the spring； the stock can be watered； packs removed； beds unrolled； and camp made for the night。 The water； however； is not of the best for drinking purposes； though the Indians habitually use it。
Pictographs。 The following morning an early start may be made； and the winding course of Topocobya Canyon followed to its entrance into the main Havasu Canyon。 Here a number of interesting pictographs may be seen on the wall to the left； reminding one somewhat of those found in Mallery Grotto at El Tovar。
Havasupai Gardens。* Except in the rainy season； the upper portions of the main Havasu Canyon and all its tributaries are dry and sandy。 Just before one reaches the village； however； the barrenness disappears。 A thousand springs appear； and unite to form a stream which； in less than a hundred yards； will measure from four to six feet deep and fully eight feet across。 It is this stream that renders life possible for the Indians。 For the distance of about two miles； the bed of the Canyon； which is here filled with sandy earth； is irrigated from this rapidly flowing stream。 The result is that with comparatively little labor the Havasupais are able to produce excellent crops of corn； beans； chillis； onions； melons； squash and other vegetables。 After the advent of the Spaniards； they obtained peach trees； and they now grow far more peaches than they can eat； drying large quantities； some of which they sell to ranchers； miners and other outsiders。 They also have fine figs。
* Since this chapter was put into type； the Havasupai village has been swept nearly out of existence by a flood。 The winter of agog…igto saw a large fall of snow on the plateau； which； melting suddenly during a hot spell in January； rushed down the Canyon in a body； destroyed the school； agent's house； and took away nearly all the hawas； fields； and orchards of the Indians。 This catastrophe has several times occurred to them （according to their traditions）； so there is little doubt but that they will ere long replant their cornfields and reestablish their homes in the spot they love so well。
The Havasupai 〃Hawa。〃 The house of a Havasupai is called a 〃hawa。〃 It is a primitive structure； generally built of cottonwood poles； willows and earth。 Occasionally one of the leading men will put up a more pretentious home； whose sides will be of matted willows； plastered inside and out with mud； and with a mud…covered roof which will turn the rain。
A Basket…maker's Paradise。 There are about thirty basket…makers among the Havasupais； and specimens of their work may be found in the Hopi House。 As Havasu Creek is lined with willows that are admirably adapted for basket…making； and as an abundant supply o
