the grand canyon of arizona-第34章

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used　to　visit　the　Havasupais；　and　that　is　just　beyond　the　Great　Curve；　where　the　river　may　be　said　to　flow　from　the　northeast　to　the　southsouthwest。　But　both　at　Bass　Camp　and　at　this　point；　the　Havasupais　had　made　trails　down　to　the　river；　of　the　existence　of　which　the　Hopis　may；　or　may　not；　have　known。　So　I　freely　confess　that；　as　yet；　I　have　not　settled　in　my　own　mind　at　what　point　Cardenas　and　the　Spaniards　gazed　into　the　depths　of　the　Great　Canyon。

Alarcon's　Discovery　of　Colorado　River。　While　the　main　portion　of　Coronado's　army　had　been　advancing　eastward；　a　sea　force　sent　out　to　cooperate　with　Coronado；　under　Alarcon；　had　sailed　up　the　Gulf　of　California；　and　had　entered　the　Colorado　River；　thus　solving　the　problem　of　its　exit　into　the　Gulf。　To　Alarcon；　belongs　the　discovery　of　the　Colorado　River；　which　he　named　the　Buena　Guia。　He　went　up　the　river　twice　in　boats；　the　second　time　ascending　possibly　as　high　as　a　hundred　miles　above　the　mouth　of　the　Gila。　Finally　he　entered　〃between　certain　very　high　mountains；　through　which　this　river　passeth　with　a　straight　channel；　and　the　boats　went　up　against　the　stream　very　hardly　for　want　of　men　to　draw　the　same。〃　He　claims　to　have　passed　above　this　place　undoubtedly　one　of　the　lesser　canyons　of　the　Colorado　found　below　the　Needles；　where　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　crosses　the　riverand　here　magicians　tried　to　destroy　him　and　his　party　by　setting　magic　reeds　in　the　water　on　both　sides。　Of　course　this　failed；　but　Alarcon　decided　to　go　no　further。　Here　he　erected　a　very　high　cross；　on　which　was　carved　a　statement　to　the　effect　that　he　had　reached　this　spot；　so　that　if　Coronado's　men　should　find　it；　they　would　know　he　had　ascended　the　river　thus　far。

Town　of　San　Hieronimo　is　Established。　In　the　mean　time；　a　small　force　of　seventy　or　eighty　of　the　weakest　and　least　reliable　of　the　men　of　Coronado's　army　was　left　in　September；　1540；　at　a　town　which　Cabeza　de　Vaca　had　named　Corazones；　or　hearts；　because　the　people　there　fed　him　on　the　hearts　of　animals。　Coronado's　plan　was　to　establish　a　town　here；　which　he　or　his　lieutenant　in　charge　of　this　portion　of　the　army　called　San　Hieronimo　de　los　Corazones。　These　men　and　the　care　of　the　new　settlement　were　left　to　Melchior　Diaz；　with　orders　to　protect　the　road　between　Cibola　and　New　Spain；　and　also　to　attempt　to　find　some　means　of　communicating　with　the　vessels　under　Alarcon。　Diaz；　with　twenty…five　selected　men；　started　for　the　seacoast；　went　to　the　Gulf；　across　to　the　coast；　back　again　up　the　river；　where　he　found　Alarcon's　cross；　and　eventually　returned　to　San　Hieronimo；　there　to　meet　with　death　by　an　accident。　Owing　to　the　habit　of　the　Indians　at　the　lower　portion　of　the　river　of　warming　themselves　in　cold　weather　with　a　burning　stick；　Diaz　called　the　river　El　Rio　del　Tizon　the　River　of　the　Firebrand。

Disaster　Comes　to　the　Spaniards。　Disappointed　at　what　he　had　found　at　Cibola　and　Tiguex；　Coronado　now　decided　to　go　with　his　whole　army　to　a　place　which　had　been　described　to　him　in　most　glowing　terms　by　an　Indian。　He　told　of　a　place　of　fabulous　wealth　named　Quivera；　and；　says　the　ancient　historian：　〃He　gave　such　a　clear　account　of　what　he　told；　as　if　it　was　true　and　he　had　seen　it；　that　it　seemed　plain　afterward　that　the　devil　was　speaking　in　him。〃　Carried　away　by　these　glowing　visions　of　wealth；　Coronado　sent　Tovar　back　to　San　Hieronimo。　Melchior　Diaz　was　dead；　and　the　little　settlement　was　in　an　excitement；　because　one　of　the　soldiers　had　just　been　killed　by　a　poisoned　arrow；　shot　by　one　of　the　natives。　In　trying　to　punish　this　offence；　owing　to　the　folly　of　the　officer　sent　by　Tovar　in　charge　of　the　primitive　force；　seventeen　more　soldiers　were　killed　by　poisoned　arrows；　so　that　the　ensign　hastily　abandoned　the　place；　and　moved　with　his　sadly　reduced　force　forty　leagues　toward　Cibola；　into　a　valley　called　Suya。　From　this　point；　he　ultimately　collected　the　best　of　his　men；　and　marched　on　to　Tiguex；　to　find　Coronado　already　gone　on　his　heartbreaking　expedition　to　Quivera。

Coronado　Returns　to　New　Spain。　After　long　and　fruitless　search；　Coronado　returned　to　New　Spain；　a　disappointed　man；　disgraced　and　discarded。　Tovar　returned　with　him；　but　doubtless　later　found　congenial　work　in　other　fields。



CHAPTER　XXV。　Fray　Marcos　And　Garces；　And　Their　Connection　With　The　Grand　Canyon

Hotel　and　Stations　Named　for　Spanish　Priests。　At　Williams；　the　gateway　to　the　Canyon；　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　Company　recently　has　erected　a　typical　Mission　style　hotel；　to　which　the　name　of　Fray　Marcos　has　been　given。　Here　Canyon　visitors　who　stop　off　between　trains　find　excellent　accommodations。　At　Needles；　California；　on　the　Colorado　River；　is　another　reinforced　concrete　building；　named　after　another　Franciscan　priest；　Francisco　Garces。　Both　Fray　Marcos　and　El　Garces　are　managed　by　Fred　Harvey；　who　also　has　charge　of　El　Tovar　Hotel。　The　history　of　this　part　of　the　Southwest　for　the　last　thirty　years　cannot　be　written　without　mention　of　this　masterful　man；　who　made　railway　meal　service　a　fine　art。　In　accordance　with　a　policy　established　some　time　ago　by　the　Santa　Fe　Company；　the　architecture　of　their　station　hotels　conforms　to　the　Spanish　Mission　styles；　as　far　as　possible；　and　they　are　given　names　of　those　who　are　inseparably　connected　with　the　romantic　history　of　this　region。

Fray　Marcos　Comes　to　America。　In　the　chapter　〃Tovar　and　the　Discovery　of　the　Grand　Canyon；〃　brief　reference　is　made　to　the　reconnaissance　undertaken　by　Fray　Marcos　de　Niza；　a　Franciscan　friar；　to　determine　the　truth　of　the　reports　brought　into　Culiacan　by　Cabeza　de　Vaca。　This　narrative　of　Fray　Marcos　is　taken；　in　the　main；　from　George　Parker　Winship's　introduction　to　his　translation　of　Castaneda's　narrative；　published　in　the　fourteenth　annual　report　of　the　United　States　Bureau　of　Ethnology。　This　friar　was　born　in　Nice；　then　a　part　of　Savoy；　and　he　came　to　America　about　the　year　1531。　His　contemporaries　called　him　a　Frenchman；　though　there　is　no　evidence　that　he　was　of　French　parentage。　He　was　sent　as　one　of　the　religious　to　accompany　Pizarro　on　his　expedition　to　Peru；　and　was　present　at　the　trial　and　execution　of　the　native　king；　Atahualpa。　From　Peru；　he　returned　to　Central　America；　and　thence　he　returned　on　foot　to　Mexico。　He　was　a　man　of　known　bravery　and　character；　and　already　was　appointed　to　the　office　of　vice…commissary　of　his　order。　Thus　Mendoza　felt　no　hesitation　at　charging　him　with　the　arduous　mission　of　penetrating　to　the　heart　of　what　are　now　Arizona　and　New　Mexico；　as　far　as　the　reported　seven　cities　of　Cibola；　and　bringing　back　to　his　superiors　a　truthful　account　of　what　he　saw。　The　father　provincial　of　the　order；　Fray　Antonio　de　Ciudad　Rodrigo；　on　August　26；　1539；　certified　to　the　high　esteem　in　which　Fray　Marcos　was　held；　and　stated　that　he　was　skilled　in　cosmography；　and　in　the　arts　of　the　sea；　as　well　as　in　theology。

Mendoza　Instructs　Fray　Marcos。　Mendoza　drew　up　for　him　a　set　of　instructions　as　to　how　he　should　proceed。　These　were　very　explicit　as　to　the　good　treatment　the　Indians　were　to　receive　at　his　hands；　and　required　him　to　make　certain　scientific　observations　with　due　care　and　thoroughness。　He　was　to　leave　letters　at　stated　intervals；　and　also　send　back　to　the　viceroy　reports　of　his　progress；　wherever　possible。　Coronado　escorted　him　as　far　as　the　new　town　of　Culiacan；　and　on　March　7；　1539；　accompanied　by　a　lay　brother；　Onorato；　he　started　on　his　trip。

Courage　of　Spaniards。　When　it　is　remembered　that　this　journey　of　several　hundreds　of　miles　was　on　foot；for　the　rule　of　the　Franciscans　was　that　all　their　members　should　travel　afoot　save　in　cases　of　extreme　necessity；　through　a　barren；　almost　waterless　desert；　roamed　over；　by　warlike　Indians；　the　courage　of　the　man　is　apparent。　Yet　he　was　not　remarkable　in　this。　The　history　of　Mexico　and　of　all　the　Spanish　colonies；　as　well　as　those　of　New　Mexico　（which　used　to　include　Arizona）；　Texas；　and　California；　abounds　in　the　names　of　men　of　equal　courage　and　daring。　On　reaching　Petatlan；　Brother　Onorato　fell　sick；　and　Marcos　had　to　leave　him　behind；　thence　alone；　as　far　as　white　men　were　concerned；　he　traveled　to　Cibola。　Six　Indian　interpreters　and　a　large　number　of　natives　accompanied　and　followed　him；　and　Stephen；　the　negro；　went　ahead　as　his　guide。

Investigates　Regarding　Pearl　Islands。　He　reached　Vacapa　（now　known　as　Matapa）；　in　Central　Sonora；　two　days　before　Passion　Sunday；　which　in　1539　fell　on　March　23。　From　this　point　he　sent　to　the　seacoast　for　some　Indians；　in　order　that　he　might　learn　from　them　something　about　the　pearl　islands；　of　which　rumors　had　come　to　Cabeza　de　Vara。　He　remained　here　until　April　6。

Stephen；　the　Guide；　Is　Sent　Ahead。　In　the　meantime；　Stephen　had　pushed　on　to　the　north；　leaving　on　Passion　Sunday；　with　orders　from　Fray　Marcos　not　to　go　further　than　fifty　or　sixty　leagues　ahead。　If　he　found　any　signs　of　a　rich　and　populous　country　before　he　had　gone　that　distance；　he　was　not　to　proceed　further；　but　was　to　return　for　Marcos；　or　remain；　and　send　messengers　for　him；　bearing　a　white　cross　the　size　of　the　palm　of　his　hand。　If　the　news　was　very　promising；　the　cross　was　to　be　twice　the　size；　and　if　the　country　about　which　he　heard　promised　to　be　larger　and　better　than　New　Spain　（as　Mexico　was　then　generally　known）；　a　cross　still　larger　than　this　was　to　be　sent　back。　Castaneda　says　that　Stephen　was　sent　on　ahead　because　he　and　Marcos　did　not　agree　well；　the　negro　not　only　showing　covetousness　and　the　determination　to　acquire　the　turquoises　of　the　natives；　but　also　an　amorousness　that　demanded　of　them　their　youngest　and　prettiest　women。

Messengers　Bring　Good　News　to　Marcos。　Four　days　after　his　departure；　messengers　sent　by　Stephen　reached　Fray　Marcos　with　a　very　large　cross　as　tall　as　a　man。　This；　according　to　the　signs　established　between　them；　meant　wonderful　news。　One　of　the　messengers　told　what　it　was。　He　it　was；　indeed；　who　had　given　the　news　to　the　negro；　and　he；　in　turn；　had　sent　the　native　on　to　Fray　Marcos。　This　is　what　Marcos　records　of　the　Indian's　story：

Report　of　Turquoise　Stones。　〃There　are　seven　very　large　cities　in　the　first　province；　all　under　one　lord；　with　large　houses　of　stone　and　lime；　the　smallest　one　story　high；　with　a　flat　roof　above；　and　others　two　and　three　stories　high；　and　the　house　of　the　lord　four　stories　high。　They　are　all　united　under　his　rule。　And　on　portals　of　the　principal　houses　there　are　many　designs　of　turquoise　stones；　of　which　he　says　they　have　a　great　abundance　and；　the　people　in　these　cities　are　very　well　clothed。　Concerning　other　provinces　farther　on；　he　said　that　each　one　of　them　amounted　to　much　more　than　these　seven　cities。〃

Marcos　got　a　very　clear　idea　of　what　actually　existed；　though　he　misunderstood　the　democratic　community　rule　of　the　people　of　Cibola；　under　a　chief　whom　they　had　elected　to　the　office；　for　the　rule　of　an　overlord。　The　houses　were　built　about　as　he　describes；　and　whitewashed　inside　and　out　with　gypsum；　and　though　the　placing　of　turquoises　in　the　door　jambs　is　discontinued；　the　traditions　of　the　people　clearly　indicate　that　at　one　time　that　was　their　general　practice。

Messenger　from　the　Coast　Returns。　Had　he　been　a　man　of　great　impatience；　Marcos　would　have　started　off　at　once　to　discover　the　truth　or　falsity　of　these　reports；　but　he　wai