the grand canyon of arizona-第41章

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River　and　the　rim　of　the　Canyon　is　equivalent　to　going　hundreds　of　miles　north　and　south　on　the　level。　Hence　it　is　that　when　it　is　winter　on　the　rim；　it　is　like　spring　down　in　the　depths；　when　it　is　spring　on　the　top　of　the　world；　the　heat　below　is　tropical。

Weather　not　Extreme。　Bear　in　mind；　though；　that　neither　the　cold　of　winter　nor　the　heat　of　summer；　in　northern　Arizona；　are　as　frigid　or　as　torrid　as　the　readings　of　the　thermometer　may　seem　to　indicate。　The　cold　or　heat　is　not　felt　to　such　an　extreme　as　in　the　East。　A　minimum　of　humidity　is　the　basic　reason　for　this　wide　difference　between；　for　example；　the　July　or　January　climate　of　New　York；　and　the　July　or　January　climate　of　the　Grand　Canyon。　Extremes　that　in　New　York　drive　people　to　the　cool　seashore　or　To　California's　winter　warmth；　here　bring　no　discomfort。　You　don't　feel　the　weather　changes　so　much；　just　because　the　air　is　so　much　dryer。

Mild　in　Summer　and　in　Winter。　Again；　the　altitude　of　the　Grand　Canyon　rimin　places　nearly　a　mile　and　a　half　above　sea…levelmakes　the　summers　cooler　than　the　latitude　would　indicate。　It　is　ten　degrees　cooler；　in　July；　at　Flagstaff；　Arizona；　than　at　Salt　Lake　City；　three　hundred　miles　north　in　Utah。　In　turn；　the　southerly　location　of　this　titanic　wonderland　causes　the　winters　to　be　milder　than　in　Colorado；　Utah　and　Montana。

Average　Condition。　Visitors　should　bear　in　mind　that　the　Grand　Canyon　is　an　all…the…year…round　resort。　Unlike　the　Yellowstone　and　many　other　far　west　scenic　playgrounds；　one　may　visit　there　with　comfort　any　time　of　the　year。　While　certain　periods　are　more　favorable　than　others　for　outdoor　life；　each　season　has　its　distinctive　joys。

As　a　rule；　this　part　of　Arizona　is　a　true　land　of　sunshine。　Sunny　days　are　largely　in　evidence。

As　a　rule；　the　air　is　dry。　Even　the　rains　don't　soak　it　through。

As　a　rule；　except　on　the　edge　of　the　rim；　the　wind　velocity　is　under　the　average。

As　a　rule；　one　may　ride；　walk　or　loaf　outdoors；　without　fear　of　overexertion。　The　air　is　like　wine；　it　builds　one　anew。

Yet　the　weather　is　not　perfect。　You　may　strike　a　small　sandstorm　in　midsummer。　You　may　hit　a　blizzard　in　midwinter。　A　torrential　shower　may　drench　you。　A　fervent　sun　may　unduly　tan　you。　But　these　deviations　from　Paradise　come　only　occasionally；　they　are　the　bitter　that　makes　the　sweet　more　sweet。

I　can　safely　promise　you；　nine　times　out　of　ten；　pleasanter　weather　than　you　would　find　if　at　home。　And　that　is　the　best　test。

Rest…cure。　Those　who　visit　the　Canyon　oftenest　and　stay　longest　find　the　least　fault　with　its　weather。　For　myself；　I　never　complain；　rather　I　always　look　forward　with　great　joy　to　an　outing　here。　For　besides　being　an　unparalleled　scenic　spectacle；　the　Grand　Canyon　is　the　greatest　of　rest…cures。　I　know　of　nothing　better　for　tired　nerves　and　worn…out　bodies　than　to　summer　or　winter　along　its　rim；　and　down　below　where　the　river　runs。

Because　the　weather　one　year　never　is　like　the　year　before　or　after；　I　cannot　accurately　forecast　what　you　will　find　of　heat　or　cold；　wet　or　dry；　when　you　visit　the　Canyon。　Even　the　〃weather　man〃　is　not　infallible　in　his　predictions。　I　only　can　outline　a　reasonable　average；　resting　upon　observations　made　during　a　score　of　years。

Winter　Months。　From　late　in　November　to　the　end　of　April；　snow　may　be　expected　at　any　time　on　the　rim；　though　many　of　the　most　delightful　days　of　the　year　occur　in　these　months。　Snow　usually　does　not　fall　until　after　Christmas。　Some　years　the　winter　is　almost　snowless；　other　years　there　is　enough　snow　to　make　fine　sleighing。　June　and　July　are　the　warm　summer　months；　with　August　hot；　but　the　heat　is　likely　to　be　tempered　by　the　rain。　From　the　middle　of　July　to　about　the　end　of　October；　rains　may　be　looked　for　at　any　time；　and　the　days　after　the　rains　are　generally　cool；　delicious　and　altogether　desirable。　Now　and　again；　both　before　and　after　a　rain；　the　air　will　be　moist　and　sultry；　somewhat　as　it　is　in　the　East；　but　this　condition　is　so　rare　as　to　cause　surprise。　Generally　the　air　is　dry；　and　the　sun　shines　warmly；　so　that　〃catching　cold〃　is　infrequent。

Late　Fall　Most　Pleasant。　In　my　varied　experience　at　the　Canyon；　I　have　found　the　months　of　September；　October；　and　November　most　agreeable　in　spite　of　an　occasional　hot　day　in　September。　January　and　March　are　often　perfect　months；　and　while　there　may　be　a　little　（or　much）　snow　on　the　rim；　I　regard　the　winter　as　the　most　delightful　time　for　trips　into　the　Canyon。　The　snow　may　make　the　trail　slippery　and　disagreeable　for　the　first　mile　or　so；　then　one　reaches　the　dry　and　snowless　region　where；　practically；　snow　never　falls；　yet　where　the　heat　from　radiating　rock　walls　is　tempered　and　subdued　by　the　coolness　from　the　snow　above。

May　Good　for　Visitors。　May　also　is　a　good　month　for　visitors；　with　more　possibilities　of　agreeable　days　than　February　or　April；　though　the　warm　days　begin　to　come　on　apace　soon　after　the　middle　of　the　month。

Fog　in　the　Canyon。　Upon　rare　occasions；　fog　banks　sink　into　the　Canyon　deeps；　and　even　now　and　again　completely　hide　it　from　view。　Do　not　let　such　a　sight　disappoint　you。　The　fact　is；　you　are　being　highly　favored。　If　you　will　but　exercise　patience；　you　will　see　many　marvels　when　the　sun　begins　to　work　upon　the　fog。　Slowly　the　great　mass　begins　to　show　signs　of　uneasiness；　large　and　small　masses　become　broken　off；　and　struggle　as　if　to　ascend；　then；　stretching　apart　as　one　stretches　a　mass　of　white　cotton…batting；　they　are　speedily　dissipated　into　mist；　and　disappear。　Below；　in　the　deeper　reaches；　the　fog　rolls　and　tosses　as　if　sleeping　uneasily　in　its　rocky　bed。　Great　detached　masses　of　rock　that　the　eye　had　not　been　able　to　discern　before　are　now　made　clear；　the　white　fog　behind　them　revealing　their　outlines　in　startling　clearness。　Indeed　a　fog　may　be　called　〃the　great　revealer　of　the　inner　mysteries　of　the　Canyon。〃　It　certainly　shows　forth　more　of　the　separating　walls　and　canyons；　and　the　detached　buttes；　than　the　most　observant　can　discover　in　a　month；　without　its　presence。

Clouds　and　Rain。　There　are　times；　in　August　and　September；　when　rain　is　to　be　expected；　that　the　whole　heavens　are　patched　over　with　clouds。　The　sun　shines　on　and　through　them；　and　the　atmosphere　becomes　murky　and　sultry　to　unpleasantness。　Then；　suddenly；　there　is　a　change　in　the　temperature　of　the　upper　air；　the　moisture　is　condensed；　and　refreshing　rain　falls　to　cool　and　cheer　the　earth　that　before　was　parched　and　thirsty。

A　Battle　Royal。　One　morning　I　watched　a　battle　of　the　clouds　over　the　Canyon。　The　wind　had　been　blowing　hard　all　night。　About　five　o'clock　I　arose；　attracted　to　the　rim　of　the　Canyon　by　a　great　black　cloud　that　seemed　banked　up　and　resting　on　the　north　rim；　covering；　as　with　a　blanket　of　blackest　smoke；　the　long；　visible　stretch　of　the　Kaibab　Plateau。　By　and　by　the　sun　shot　piercing　beams　of　golden　glory　underneath　the　cloud；　yet；　strong　and　powerful　though　they　were；　they　could　not　penetrate　the　cloud　itself。　There　was　the　great　wall　of　the　Canyon；　fierce；　fiery；　crimson…golden　rays　shooting　in　thin　streaks　above；　banked　over　and　pressed　down　upon　by　a　towering　mass　of　angry　clouds。　The　wind　blew　strongly　and　fiercely　from　the　east；　bringing　fleecy…edged　clouds　with　it。　Down　in　the　Canyon　the　effects　were　wonderful。　The　walls　reflected　the　anger　of　the　clouds；　and　the　fire　of　the　sun。　Here　and　there　a　wall；　a　tower；　or　a　pinnacle　would　be　lit　up　with　a　golden　glory；　but　all　around　was　smoky　and　forbidding。　It　even　seemed　as　if　a　grayish　black　smoke　was　ascending　from　the　depths　beneath；　through　which　the　suninvisible　behind　the　cloud　aboveshot　lancelike　beams；　which　silvered　the　smoke　and　made　it　a　little　more　gray。　On　the　far　western　walls；　rich　purples　and　reds　appeared。　Then；　suddenly；　a　soft　and　fleecy　cloud　appeared　in　the　clear　blue　of　the　morning　sky；　floating　towards　me。　It　was　awe…inspiring　and　yet　startling；　for　it　came　like　a　giant　battleship；　resistlessly　and　silently　shouldering　its　way　along。　Entranced　I　watched　it；　almost　inclined　to　run；　so　as　to　give　it　free　course；　for　it　was　low　down　and　apparently　very　near；　and　moving　with　more　than　ordinary　speed。　Suddenly　another　cloud　appeared；　travelling　after　the　first。　As　it　came；　the　earlier　one　veered　to　the　north；　and　began　to　cross　the　Canyon；　losing　some　of　its　serenity　and　calmness　of　manner　as　it　did　so；　for　now；　either　as　the　result　of　conflict　from　within；　or　silent　influence　from　without；　it　began　to　writhe　and　change　its　shape。　Ugly　angles　were　thrust　out　from　its　hitherto　smooth　sides；　and　sent　waving　and　tossing　aloft。　While　this　was　occurring；　the　second　cloud　veered；　and　when　I　gazed　again；　after　withdrawing　my　attention　for　a　few　moments；　the　two　were　one；　the　subtle　yet　powerful　forces　in　the　air　having　wedded　them。　Together　they　slowly　floated　north　and　east。　In　the　meantime；　other　clouds　had　been　coming　from　the　east。　They　sailed　along　serenely　until　they　came　within　what　appeared　to　be　a　few　hundred　yards　of　me；　and　then　suddenly　they　veered　to　the　north；　crossed　the　Canyon；　and　joined　the　vast　army　of　clouds　that　lay　in　solemn　quietude；　waiting　for　the　decisive　battle　of　the　day。　I　went　away　from　the　rim　for　an　hour　or　so；　and　when　I　returned　not　a　trace　of　a　cloud　was　to　be　seen。

A　Beautiful　Fog　Effect。　Another　morning　I　saw　the　Grand　Canyon　as　one　hears　an　exquisite　poem；　a　soft　strain　of　music　on　violin；　'cello　or　oboe；　or　sung　by　the　human　voice。　It　was　no　longer　terrifying　and　awe…inspiring；　it　affected　one　as　beautiful　flowers　do；　as　the　blessing　of　an　old　man　or　woman；　as　the　half　unconscious　caress　of　a　sleepy　child　whom　you　love。　It　was　poetry　personified；　the　spirit　of　beauty　revealed；　the　inner　glory　of　an　artistic　mystery　unveiled。

There　had　been　rain　nearly　all　night；　preceded　by　considerable　wind。　The　clouds　had　massed　together　across　the　Canyon　on　the　Kaibab。　Winds　had　seemed　to　blow　from　every　direction；　but　mainly　from　the　southeast；　and　there　were　a　few　〃sunshiny　showers〃　in　the　late　afternoon。　The　rain　began　after　the　sun　had　gone　down；　and　it　descended　easily　but　steadily　nearly　all　night。　At　six　o'clock　in　the　morning；　not　a　glimpse　of　the　Canyon　could　be　had。　It　was　completely　buried；　wrapped；　enveloped　in　clouds。　About　nine　o'clock　these　began　to　move。　The　rain　ceased；　tiny　patches　of　blue　shone　through　the　clouds　overhead；　though　east；　west；　north；　south　they　were　still　black　and　lowering。　It　was　cold　almost　to　chilliness　after　the　warmth　of　the　preceding　days；　so　there　was　no　haste；　no　hurry；　in　the　dispersion　of　the　cloud　blankets　that　covered　the　rocky　walls　and　plateaus　below。　Slowly　they　began　to　rise；　then　to　stretch　out　and　become　attenuated。　Tiny　gusts　of　wind　played　with　them；　and　tossed　them　hither　and　thither。　Banks　of　smoky　gray　lay　over　certain　portions；　but　there　was　no　regularity；　no　evenness；　either　in　the　clouds　themselves；　or　in　their　disposition。　East　and　west　thick　masses　hid　all　vision；　immediately　at　our　feet　the　clouds　filled　the　lower　canyons　below　the　plateaus；　with　a　glorious；　fleecy；　silvery　white；　that　tempted　one　to　walk　upon　it　into　the　realms　of　fairyland　and　wonder。　Fleeces　of　irregular　shape；　but　a　mile　long　and　two　miles　wide；　slowly　lifted　themselves　from　a　horizontal　position　to　a　vertical　one；　thus　converting　themselv