the grand canyon of arizona-第7章

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CHAPTER　V。　Three　Ways　Of　Spending　One　Day　At　The　Canyon

There　are　many　who　can　take　only　a　hasty　trip　to　the　Canyon。　This　is　to　be　deplored；　as　the　Grand　Canyon　is　one　of　the　sights　that　cannot　be　fully　comprehended　in　a　day；　and　yet；　if　one　has　but　a　day；　to　get　merely　one　good　long　glimpse　at　it　is　worth　all　the　effort　and　expense　that　it　may　cost；　even　to　the　least　wealthy　of　its　visitors。　And　while　it　cannot　be　too　strongly　urged　that　all　who　come　prepare　themselves　to　stay　at　least　a　weeka　month　is　far　betterI　offer　a　few　practical　suggestions　to　those　who　have　less　time；　and　wish　to　use　it　to　the　fullest　possible　advantage。

Three　Suggestions　to　the　〃One…Day〃　Visitor。　To　those　who　have　but　one　full　day；　a　choice　is　offered　of　three　courses；　first；　and　best　of　all；　to　drive　to　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail　on　the　new　Hermit　Rim　Road；　and　to　visit　Yavapai　and　Hopi　Points；　the　second；　to　drive　to　Grand　View；　the　third；　to　ride　down　Bright　Angel　Trail。

First　TripAn　Afternoon　on　Hermit　Rim　Road　to　Head　of　Hermit　Trail。　To　the　less　strenuous　visitor　who　wishes　to　see　all　he　can　in　one　day　without　the　fatigue　of　the　trail　trip；　two　courses　are　open；　both　of　which　include　driving　to　prominent　points　on　the　rim　and　sightseeing　in　their　vicinity。　One　is　to　drive　out　on　Hermit　Rim　Road；　which　drive　will　give　a　variety　of　scenery　unequaled　by　any　other　trip　to　be　made　on　the　rim。　This　trip；　giving　panorama　views　to　the　west　of　El　Tovar；　can　be　made　in　one　half　of　the　day；　let　us　say　the　afternoon；　leaving　the　morning　for　a　drive　to　Yavapai　Point；　which　gives　corresponding　panoramas　to　the　east；　though　Yavapai　is　only　three　miles　from　the　Hotel。

It　is　nine　miles　west　of　El　Tovar　to　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail　on　the　new　Hermit　Rim　Road；　and　about　three　and　one…half　hours　are　required　for　the　trip　in　addition　to　whatever　time　is　consumed　in　sightseeing　at　the　various　points　on　which　stops　are　made。

The　road　passes　Maricopa；　Hopi；　Mohave　and　Pima　Points；　and　some　time　is　spent　on　each；　as　there　is　some　special　appeal　in　the　buttes　and　the　cliffs　and　the　depths　as　seen　from　each；　but　all　along　the　route　the　gigantic　panorama　of　Grand　Canyon　stretches　for　miles　and　milesa　world　of　beauty；　all　along　the　route　the　attention　is　claimed　by　some　surprising　feature；the　precipices　of　the　opposite　wall；　the　great　interior　rock　temples；　and　side　canyons；　and　everywhere　the　incomparable　colors。

A　picturesque　shelter　house　is　to　be　constructed　at　the　end　of　the　road；　which　is　near　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail；　where　visitors　driving　on　the　Rim　Road　may　rest　before　returning　to　El　Tovar　or　before　starting　down　the　trail。

On　the　return　journey　the　scene　is　entirely　different；　owing　to　the　magic　of　the　sun's　shadows；　which　have　changed　the　aspect　of　every　wall　and　chasm　and　templewhether　in　the　gorge　below；　or　across　the　river　and　up　the　side　canyons　to　the　Kaibab　Plateau　on　the　north　rim；　and　from　October　to　May；　during　the　shorter　days；　if　the　return　is　made　late　in　the　afternoon　a　stop　will　be　made　at　Hopi　Point；　one　of　the　best　points　on　the　south　rim　from　which　to　watch　the　glories　of　the　setting　sun。

A　chapter　describing　the　Hermit　Rim　Road　and　Hermit　Trail　will　be　found　in　this　book；　but　from　no　description　can　one　comprehend　the　magnitude　and　the　silent　grandeur　of　the　Canyon　as　they　are　impressed　upon　the　senses　from　this　highway　and　from　this　trail。

A　Morning　TripTo　Yavapai　Point。　Though　Yavapai　Point　is　but　three　miles　away；　the　drive　and　the　time　required　for　sightseeing　occupy　about　two　hours。　Leaving　El　Tovar；　the　road　plunges　among　the　trees　at　once　on　passing　the　railway。　Here　are　pines；　pinions　and　junipers；　with　a　sprinkling　of　scrub　oaks；　and　the　flowering　bush　with　white　flowers　and　long　velvety　tendrils　locally　known　as　the　cinchona。　Here　and　there　a　yucca　baccata　thrusts　out　its　bayonets　from　the　ground；　as　if　in　warning；　and　a　score　or　more　of　flowers　give　variety　of　color　to　the　greens　of　the　trees；　in　due　season。

Outlook　from　Yavapai　Point。　Arrived　at　Yavapai　Point；　the　river　can　be　clearly　seen　at　two　different　places；　before　us；　directly　across　the　Canyon；　is　the　Bright　Angel　Gorge；　with　a　full　view　of　Zoroaster；　Brahma　and　Deva　Temples。　To　the　right；　the　nearest　promontory　is　Yaki　Point。　Below　the　point；　its　continuation　terminates　in　a　butte　of　great　massiveness；　which　has　been　named　O'Neill　Butte；　after　the　Arizona　pioneer　who　was　slain　during　the　charge　of　the　Rough　Riders　at　San　Juan　Hill。　Beyond　Yaki　Point；　in　the　far…away　east；　two　other　great　promontories　arrest　the　attention。　These　are　way　beyond　Grand　View　and　the　old　Hance　Trails；　and　are　Pinal　and　Lipan　Points；　leading　the　eye　to　a　〃wavy〃　wall；　slightly　to　their　left。　This　wall；　topped　with　a　series　of　curves；　is　the　western　wall　of　the　Little　Colorado　River；　and　the　smoother　wall　beyond；　to　the　left；　is　the　further　or　eastern　wall。　Here　this　tributary　river　and　canyon　connect　with　the　Grand　Canyon；　from　a　general　southeasterly　course。　It　will　be　recalled　that　transcontinental　travelers　cross　the　Little　Colorado　River　at　Winslow。　From　that　point　it　flows　in　a　northwesterly　direction；　through　the　sands　of　the　Painted　Desert；　its　banks　bearing　many　and　large　cottonwood　trees。

Wotan's　Throne。　Two　majestic　buttes　in　the　heart　of　the　Canyon；　to　the　east；　have　been　demanding　our　attention　for　some　time。　They　are　both　towering　mountains　of　rock；　that　stand　out　even　more　strikingly　than　do　the　temples　near　at　hand。　The　flat…topped　mass　is　Wotan's　Throne　（once　Newberry　Terrace）；　and　is　as　massive　as　Shiva　Temple；　seen　to　the　west。　Its　elevation　is　seven　thousand　seven　hundred　feet。

Vishnu　Temple。　The　more　ornate　and　sculptured　of　the　buttes　is　Vishnu　Temple；　a　solid　mountain　of　rock　carved　into　a　majestic　form　by　centuries　of　erosion。　Wherever　one　stands；　at　the　eastern　end　of　the　Canyon；　whether　on　the　north　or　the　south；　on　the　promontories　at　the　rim　or　on　the　plateaus　beneath；　it　is　the　dominating　and　eye…compelling　object。　It　is；　without　doubt；　the　most　stupendous　mass　of　nature's　carving　in　the　known　world。　It　is　seven　thousand　five　hundred　and　thirty…seven　feet　above　sea　level；　and　over　five　thousand　feet　above　the　Colorado　River；　which　practically　laves　its　base。

In　front　of　Wotan's　Throne；　and　a　trifle　nearer　the　river；　is　the　Angel　Gate；　described　in　the　chapter　on　Indian　Legends。

Indian　Garden。　Now　let　the　eye　fall　upon　the　Bright　Angel　Plateau。　The　tents　at　Indian　Garden　are　clearly　to　be　seen　as　well　as　any　trail　party　that　may　happen　to　be　crossing　the　plateau。　The　insignificant　size　of　the　horses　and　mules　and　their　riders　can　scarcely　be　believed。　On　the　rim　the　elevation　is　seven　thousand　and　eighty…one　feet。　At　the　Garden　the　elevation　is　three　thousand　eight　hundred　and　seventy…six　feet；　so　we　are　looking　down　four　thousand　two　hundred　and　five　feet；　over　three…fourths　of　a　mile。

Immediately　below　us；　to　the　right；　we　see　the　rugged　gorge　of　gneiss　in　which　flows　Pipe　Creek。　The　left　fork　of　this　（to　the　west）　is　Garden　Creek。　A　small　break　from　Angel　Plateau　will　be　observed；　where　Garden　Creek　curves　to　enter　Pipe　Creek。　Here　is　a　beautiful　mass　of　green；　and　not　far　away　the　trail　that　leads　from　the　plateau　to　the　river　is　in　sight。

El　Tovar　Point。　A　quarter　of　a　mile　west　from　Yavapai　Point　is　El　Tovar　Point　（formerly　called　Grandeur　Point）；　so　named　because　it　is　the　end　of　the　right　arm　of　the　amphitheatre　in　which　El　Tovar　is　located。　Its　elevation　is　seven　thousand　feet。

Coconino　Forest　and　Angel　Plateau。　To　the　west　and　south　is　the　Coconino　Forest；　beyond　is　seen　the　dry　bed　of　the　ancient　Eocene　lake；　and　the　blue　ridge；　where　the　lava…flows　from　Mount　Floyd　shut　in　the　view。　It　is　a　glorious　expanse　of　over　a　hundred　miles；　and　on　a　clear　day　every　object　is　plainly　discerned。　Here　even　better　views　of　the　Angel　Plateau　may　be　obtained　than　from　Yavapai　Point；　and　an　excellent　outlook　over　the　narrow　break　in　the　great　wall；　where　the　shattering　of　the　strata　and　the　deposition　of　talus　and　vegetable　matter　made　possible　the　building　of　the　zigzag　portion　of　the　trail　near　the　top。　The　faulting　of　the　strata　is　clearly　seen；　and　the　observer　will　not　fail　to　note　that　the　strata　of　the　left　arm　of　El　Tovar　Amphitheatre　are　thrust　up　some　one　hundred　to　two　hundred　feet　above　the　level　of　the　same　strata　upon　which　El　Tovar　itself　stands。　This　is　one　line　of　the　Bright　Angel　fault；　which　extends　across　the　river；　and　accounts　for　the　carving　out　of　the　Bright　Angel　Gorge　as　described　in　the　chapter　〃How　the　Canyon　was　Formed。〃

How　exquisite　is　the　rich　beauty　of　the　greens　of　the　Douglas　spruces；　and　the　vegetation　on　the　upper　part　of　the　trail；　contrasted　with　the　reds　and　grays　and　creams　and　buffs　of　the　rocks　around！

The　round　trip　from　El　Tovar　to　Yavapai　Point　is　about　six　miles。　A　foot…path　has　been　cut　from　El　Tovar　to　El　Tovar　Point；　so　that　visitors　may　walk　to　and　fro　between　these　so　diverse　and　yet　equally　attractive　outlooks　over　the　Canyon。

Many　visitors；　however；　after　the　drive　to　Yavapai　Point；　go　to　Hopi　Point。　And；　while　this　point　is　passed　on　the　Rim　Road　drive；　it　is　also　very　popular　as　a　morning　drive。

Drive　to　Hopi　Point。　This　point　is　three　miles　to　the　west；　and　is　just　beyond　Maricopa　Point；　which　is　practically　the　left　arm　of　El　Tovar　Amphitheatre。　The　round　trip　is　about　six　miles；　taking　in　both　points；　and　occupies　from　an　hour　and　a　half　to　two　hours。　Those　who　go　in　private　conveyances　generally　stay　longer；　and　make　a　three…hour　trip　of　it。

Leaving　El　Tovar；　the　road　turns　southwest　for　a　short　distance；　and　then　enters　the　forest　to　the　north。　It　is　a　restful　drive　over　a　section　of　the　well…made　Hermit　Rim　Road。

View　at　Hopi　Point。　The　first　impression　when　one　arrives　at　Hopi　Point　is　of　the　nearness　of　the　buttes；　and　the　sheer　precipitousness　of　the　place　upon　which　he　stands。　Both　are　owing　to　the　fact　that　Hopi　Point　is　thrust　far　into　the　heart　of　the　Canyon。　Its　elevation　is　seven　thousand　and　forty…nine　feet。

Dana　Butte。　Immediately　facing　the　visitor；　a　continuation　of　Hopi　Point　at　the　five　thousand　and　twenty…five　foot　level；　is　a　butte　that　would　dwarf　into　insignificance　the　most　stupendous　of　all　the　world's　city　sky…scrapers；　yet　here　it　is　hardly　noticeable　in　the　wealth　of　more　massive　and　majestic　structures。　It　is　Dana　Butte；　so　named　after　the　great　geologist。　Across　the　river；　which　here　can　be　seen　in　five　different　places；　are　the　temples　to　the　right　or　east　of　Bright　Angel　Gorge；　while　Buddha　and　Manu　on　the　left　（west）　are　equally　in　evidence。　But　right　before　us　is　the　dominating　mass　of　Shiva　Temple；　with　Isis　Temple　and　Cheops　Pyramid　guarding　it　on　the　right。　To　the　left；　new　architectural　forms　and　masses　come　out　into　clearer　view；　two　of　these　being　stupendous　structures　of　great　beauty　and　majesty　that　guard　the　approach　to　Shiva　Temple。　These　are　Osiris　and　Horus　Temples；　the　latter　being　in　front。

Tower　of　Set。　Just　before　Horus　is　a　smaller　but　massive　structure；　known　as　the　Tower　of　Set。　The　elevation　of　Osiris　above　sea　level　is　six　thousand　six　hundred　and　thirty…seven　feet；　that　of　Horus　six　thousand　one　hundred　and　fifty　feet；　and　of　the　Tower　of　Set　five　thousand　nine　hundred　and　ninety…seven　feet。　Beyond　these；