sons of the soil-第2章

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and　all　the　quivering　trees　palpitated；an　intelligent　family　with

graceful　branches　and　elegant　bearing；　the　trees　of　a　love　as　free！　It

was　from　this　point；　my　dear　fellow；　that　I　saw　a　pond　covered　with

the　white　water…lily　and　other　plants　with　broad　flat　leaves　and

narrow　slender　ones；　on　which　lay　a　boat　painted　white　and　black；　as

light　as　a　nut…shell　and　dainty　as　the　wherry　of　a　Seine　boatman。

Beyond　rose　the　chateau；　built　in　1560；　of　fine　red　brick；　with　stone

courses　and　copings；　and　window…frames　in　which　the　sashes　were　of

small　leaded　panes　（O　Versailles！）。　The　stone　is　hewn　in　diamond

points；　but　hollowed；　as　in　the　Ducal　Palace　at　Venice　on　the　facade

toward　the　Bridge　of　Sighs。　There　are　no　regular　lines　about　the

castle　except　in　the　centre　building；　from　which　projects　a　stately

portico　with　double　flights　of　curving　steps；　and　round　balusters

slender　at　their　base　and　broadening　at　the　middle。　The　main　building

is　surrounded　by　clock…towers　and　sundry　modern　turrets；　with

galleries　and　vases　more　or　less　Greek。　No　harmony　there；　my　dear

Nathan！　These　heterogeneous　erections　are　wrapped；　so　to　speak；　by

various　evergreen　trees　whose　branches　shed　their　brown　needles　upon

the　roofs；　nourishing　the　lichen　and　giving　tone　to　the　cracks　and

crevices　where　the　eye　delights　to　wander。　Here　you　see　the　Italian

pine；　the　stone　pine；　with　its　red　bark　and　its　majestic　parasol；　here

a　cedar　two　hundred　years　old；　weeping　willows；　a　Norway　spruce；　and　a

beech　which　overtops　them　all；　and　there；　in　front　of　the　main　tower；

some　very　singular　shrubs；a　yew　trimmed　in　a　way　that　recalls　some

long…decayed　garden　of　old　France；　and　magnolias　with　hortensias　at

their　feet。　In　short；　the　place　is　the　Invalides　of　the　heroes　of

horticulture；　once　the　fashion　and　now　forgotten；　like　all　other

heroes。



A　chimney；　with　curious　copings；　which　was　sending　forth　great　volumes

of　smoke；　assured　me　that　this　delightful　scene　was　not　an　opera

setting。　A　kitchen　reveals　human　beings。　Now　imagine　ME；　Blondet；　who

shiver　as　if　in　the　polar　regions　at　Saint…Cloud；　in　the　midst　of　this

glowing　Burgundian　climate。　The　sun　sends　down　its　warmest　rays；　the

king…fisher　watches　on　the　shores　of　the　pond；　the　cricket　chirps；　the

grain…pods　burst；　the　poppy　drops　its　morphia　in　glutinous　tears；　and

all　are　clearly　defined　on　the　dark…blue　ether。　Above　the　ruddy　soil

of　the　terraces　flames　that　joyous　natural　punch　which　intoxicates　the

insects　and　the　flowers　and　dazzles　our　eyes　and　browns　our　faces。　The

grape　is　beading；　its　tendrils　fall　in　a　veil　of　threads　whose

delicacy　puts　to　shame　the　lace…makers。　Beside　the　house　blue

larkspur；　nasturtium；　and　sweet…peas　are　blooming。　From　a　distance

orange…trees　and　tuberoses　scent　the　air。　After　the　poetic　exhalations

of　the　woods　（a　gradual　preparation）　came　the　delectable　pastilles　of

this　botanic　seraglio。



Standing　on　the　portico；　like　the　queen　of　flowers；　behold　a　woman

robed　in　white；　with　hair　unpowdered；　holding　a　parasol　lined　with

white　silk；　but　herself　whiter　than　the　silk；　whiter　than　the　lilies

at　her　feet；　whiter　than　the　starry　jasmine　that　climbed　the

balustrade；a　woman；　a　Frenchwoman　born　in　Russia；　who　said　as　I

approached　her；　〃I　had　almost　given　you　up。〃　She　had　seen　me　as　I　left

the　copse。　With　what　perfection　do　all　women；　even　the　most　guileless；

understand　the　arrangement　of　a　scenic　effect？　The　movements　of　the

servants；　who　were　preparing　to　serve　breakfast；　showed　me　that　the

meal　had　been　delayed　until　after　the　arrival　of　the　diligence。　She

had　not　ventured　to　come　to　meet　me。



Is　this　not　our　dream；the　dream　of　all　lovers　of　the　beautiful；

under　whatsoever　form　it　comes；　the　seraphic　beauty　that　Luini　put

into　his　Marriage　of　the　Virgin；　that　noble　fresco　at　Sarono；　the

beauty　that　Rubens　grasped　in　the　tumult　of　his　〃Battle　of　the

Thermodon〃；　the　beauty　that　five　centuries　have　elaborated　in　the

cathedrals　of　Seville　and　Milan；　the　beauty　of　the　Saracens　at

Granada；　the　beauty　of　Louis　XIV。　at　Versailles；　the　beauty　of　the

Alps；　and　that　of　this　Limagne　in　which　I　stand？



Belonging　to　the　estate；　about　which　there　is　nothing　too　princely；

nor　yet　too　financial；　where　prince　and　farmer…general　have　both　lived

（which　fact　serves　to　explain　it）；　are　four　thousand　acres　of

woodland；　a　park　of　some　nine　hundred　acres；　the　mill；　three　leased

farms；　another　immense　farm　at　Conches；　and　vineyards；the　whole

producing　a　revenue　of　about　seventy　thousand　francs　a　year。　Now　you

know　Les　Aigues；　my　dear　fellow；　where　I　have　been　expected　for　the

last　two　weeks；　and　where　I　am　at　this　moment；　in　the　chintz…lined

chamber　assigned　to　dearest　friends。



Above　the　park；　towards　Conches；　a　dozen　little　brooks；　clear；　limpid

streams　coming　from　the　Morvan；　fall　into　the　pond；　after　adorning

with　their　silvery　ribbons　the　valleys　of　the　park　and　the　magnificent

gardens　around　the　chateau。　The　name　of　the　place；　Les　Aigues；　comes

from　these　charming　streams　of　water；　the　estate　was　originally　called

in　the　old　title…deeds　〃Les　Aigues…Vives〃　to　distinguish　it　from

〃Aigues…Mortes〃；　but　the　word　〃Vives〃　has　now　been　dropped。　The　pond

empties　into　the　stream；　which　follows　the　course　of　the　avenue；

through　a　wide　and　straight　canal　bordered　on　both　sides　and　along　its

whole　length　by　weeping　willows。　This　canal；　thus　arched；　produces　a

delightful　effect。　Gliding　through　it；　seated　on　a　thwart　of　the

little　boat；　one　could　fancy　one's　self　in　the　nave　of　some　great

cathedral；　the　choir　being　formed　of　the　main　building　of　the　house

seen　at　the　end　of　it。　When　the　setting　sun　casts　its　orange　tones

mingled　with　amber　upon　the　casements　of　the　chateau；　the　effect　is

that　of　painted　windows。　At　the　other　end　of　the　canal　we　see　Blangy；

the　county…town；　containing　about　sixty　houses；　and　the　village

church；　which　is　nothing　more　than　a　tumble…down　building　with　a

wooden　clock…tower　which　appears　to　hold　up　a　roof　of　broken　tiles。

One　comfortable　house　and　the　parsonage　are　distinguishable；　but　the


township　is　a　large　one；about　two　hundred　scattered　houses　in　all；

those　of　the　village　forming　as　it　were　the　capital。　The　roads　are

lined　with　fruit…trees；　and　numerous　little　gardens　are　strewn　here

and　there；true　country　gardens　with　everything　in　them；　flowers；

onions；　cabbages　and　grapevines；　currants；　and　a　great　deal　of　manure。

The　village　has　a　primitive　air；　it　is　rustic；　and　has　that　decorative

simplicity　which　we　artists　are　forever　seeking。　In　the　far　distance

is　the　little　town　of　Soulanges　overhanging　a　vast　sheet　of　water；

like　the　buildings　on　the　lake　of　Thune。



When　you　stroll　in　the　park；　which　has　four　gates；　each　superb　in

style；　you　feel　that　our　mythological　Arcadias　are　flat　and　stale。

Arcadia　is　in　Burgundy；　not　in　Greece；　Arcadia　is　at　Les　Aigues　and

nowhere　else。　A　river；　made　by　scores　of　brooklets；　crosses　the　park

at　its　lower　level　with　a　serpentine　movement；　giving　a　dewy　freshness

and　tranquillity　to　the　scene；an　air　of　solitude；　which　reminds　one

of　a　convent　of　Carthusians；　and　all　the　more　because；　on　an

artificial　island　in　the　river；　is　a　hermitage　in　ruins；　the　interior

elegance　of　which　is　worthy　of　the　luxurious　financier　who　constructed

it。　Les　Aigues；　my　dear　Nathan；　once　belonged　to　that　Bouret　who　spent

two　millions　to　receive　Louis　XV。　on　a　single　occasion　under　his　roof。

How　many　ardent　passions；　how　many　distinguished　minds；　how　many

fortunate　circumstances　have　contributed　to　make　this　beautiful　place

what　it　is！　A　mistress　of　Henri　IV。　rebuilt　the　chateau　where　it　now

stands。　The　favorite　of　the　Great　Dauphin；　Mademoiselle　Choin　（to　whom

Les　Aigues　was　given）；　added　a　number　of　farms　to　it。　Bouret　furnished

the　house　with　all　the　elegancies　of　Parisian　homes　for　an　Opera

celebrity；　and　to　him　Les　Aigues　owes　the　restoration　of　its　ground

floor　in　the　style　Louis　XV。



I　have　often　stood　rapt　in　admiration　at　the　beauty　of　the　dining…

room。　The　eye　is　first　attracted　to　the　ceiling；　painted　in　fresco　in

the　Italian　manner；　where　lightsome　arabesques　are　frolicking。　Female

forms；　in　stucco　ending　in　foliage；　support　at　regular　distances

corbeils　of　fruit；　from　which　spring　the　garlands　of　the　ceiling。

Charming　paintings；　the　work　of　unknown　artists；　fill　the　panels

between　the　female　figures；　representing　the　luxuries　of　the　table；

boar's…heads；　salmon；　rare　shell…fish；　and　all　edible　things；which

fantastically　suggest　men　and　women　and　children；　and　rival　the

whimsical　imagination　of　the　Chinese；the　people　who　best　understand；

to　my　thinking　at　least；　the　art　of　decoration。　The　mistress　of　the

house　finds　a　bell…wire　beneath　her　feet　to　summon　servants；　who　enter

only　when　required；　disturbing　no　interviews　and　overhearing　no

secrets。　The　panels　above　the　doorways　represent　gay　scenes；　all　the

embrasures；　both　of　doors　and　windows；　are　in　marble　mosaics。　The　room

is　heated　from　below。　Every　window　looks　forth　on　some　delightful

view。



This　room　communicates　with　a　bath…room　on　one　side　and　on　the　other

with　a　boudoir　which　opens　into　the　salon。　The　bath…room　is　lined　with

Sevres　tiles；　painted　in　monochrome；　the　floor　is　mosaic；　and　the　bath

marble。　An　alcove；　hidden　by　a　picture　painted　on　copper；　which　turns

on　a　pivot；　contains　a　couch　in　gilt　wood　of　the　truest　Pompadour。　The

ceiling　is　lapis…lazuli　starred　with　gold。　The　tiles　are　painted　from

designs　by　Boucher。　Bath；　table　and　love　are　therefore　closely　united。



After　the　salon；　which；　I　should　tell　you；　my　dear　fellow；　exhibits

the　magnificence　of　the　Louis　XIV。　manner；　you　enter　a　fine　billiard…

room　unrivalled　so　far　as　I　know　in　Paris　itself。　The　entrance　to　this

suite　of　ground…floor　apartments　is　through　a　semi…circular

antechamber；　at　the　lower　end　of　which　is　a　fairy…like　staircase；

lighted　from　above；　which　leads　to　other　parts　of　the　house；　all　built

at　various　epochsand　to　think　that　they　chopped　off　the　heads　of　the

wealthy　in　1793！　Good　heavens！　why　can't　people　understand　that　the

marvels　of　art　are　impossible　in　a　land　where　there　are　no　great

fortunes；　no　secure；　luxurious　lives？　If　the　Left　insists　on　killing

kings　why　not　leave　us　a　few　little　princelings　with　money　in　their

pockets？



At　the　present　moment　these　accumulated　treasures　belong　to　a　charming

woman　with　an　artistic　soul；　who　is　not　content　with　merely　restoring

them　magnificently；　but　who　keeps　the　place　up　with　loving　care。　Sham

philosophers；　studying　themselves　while　they　profess　to　be　studying

humanity；　call　these　glorious　things　extravagance。　They　grovel　before

cotton　prints　and　the　tasteless　designs　of　modern　industry；　as　if　we

were　greater　and　happier　in　these　days　than　in　those　of　Henri　IV。；

Louis　XIV。；　and　Louis　XVI。；　monarchs　who　have　all　left　the　stamp　of

their　reigns　upon　Les　Aigues。　What　palace；　what　royal　castle；　wh