three men on the bummel-第29章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


a…vis　across　the　Rhine。　　The　villages　and　farms　possess　more　the
charm　of　decay。　　Another　point　wherein　the　Vosges　district　excels
is　its　ruins。　　Many　of　its　numerous　castles　are　perched　where　you
might　think　only　eagles　would　care　to　build。　　In　others；　commenced
by　the　Romans　and　finished　by　the　Troubadours；　covering　acres　with
the　maze　of　their　still　standing　walls；　one　may　wander　for　hours。

The　fruiterer　and　greengrocer　is　a　person　unknown　in　the　Vosges。
Most　things　of　that　kind　grow　wild；　and　are　to　be　had　for　the
picking。　　It　is　difficult　to　keep　to　any　programme　when　walking
through　the　Vosges；　the　temptation　on　a　hot　day　to　stop　and　eat
fruit　generally　being　too　strong　for　resistance。　　Raspberries；　the
most　delicious　I　have　ever　tasted；　wild　strawberries；　currants；　and
gooseberries；　grow　upon　the　hill…sides　as　black…berries　by　English
lanes。　　The　Vosges　small　boy　is　not　called　upon　to　rob　an　orchard；
he　can　make　himself　ill　without　sin。　　Orchards　exist　in　the　Vosges
mountains　in　plenty；　but　to　trespass　into　one　for　the　purpose　of
stealing　fruit　would　be　as　foolish　as　for　a　fish　to　try　and　get
into　a　swimming　bath　without　paying。　　Still；　of　course；　mistakes　do
occur。

One　afternoon　in　the　course　of　a　climb　we　emerged　upon　a　plateau；
where　we　lingered　perhaps　too　long；　eating　more　fruit　than　may　have
been　good　for　us；　it　was　so　plentiful　around　us；　so　varied。　　We
commenced　with　a　few　late　strawberries；　and　from　those　we　passed　to
raspberries。　　Then　Harris　found　a　greengage…tree　with　some　early
fruit　upon　it；　just　perfect。

〃This　is　about　the　best　thing　we　have　struck；〃　said　George；　〃we　had
better　make　the　most　of　this。〃　　Which　was　good　advice；　on　the　face
of　it。

〃It　is　a　pity；〃　said　Harris；　〃that　the　pears　are　still　so　hard。〃

He　grieved　about　this　for　a　while；　but　later　on　came　across　some
remarkably　fine　yellow　plums　and　these　consoled　him　somewhat。

〃I　suppose　we　are　still　a　bit　too　far　north　for　pineapples；〃　said
George。　　〃I　feel　I　could　just　enjoy　a　fresh　pineapple。　　This
commonplace　fruit　palls　upon　one　after　a　while。〃

〃Too　much　bush　fruit　and　not　enough　tree；　is　the　fault　I　find；〃
said　Harris。　　〃Myself；　I　should　have　liked　a　few　more　greengages。〃

〃Here　is　a　man　coming　up　the　hill；〃　I　observed；　〃who　looks　like　a
native。　　Maybe；　he　will　know　where　we　can　find　some　more
greengages。〃

〃He　walks　well　for　an　old　chap；〃　remarked　Harris。

He　certainly　was　climbing　the　hill　at　a　remarkable　pace。　　Also；　so
far　as　we　were　able　to　judge　at　that　distance；　he　appeared　to　be　in
a　remarkably　cheerful　mood；　singing　and　shouting　at　the　top　of　his
voice；　gesticulating；　and　waving　his　arms。

〃What　a　merry　old　soul　it　is；〃　said　Harris；　〃it　does　one　good　to
watch　him。　　But　why　does　he　carry　his　stick　over　his　shoulder？　　Why
doesn't　he　use　it　to　help　him　up　the　hill？〃

〃Do　you　know；　I　don't　think　it　is　a　stick；〃　said　George。

〃What　can　it　be；　then？〃　asked　Harris。

〃Well；　it　looks　to　me；〃　said　George；　〃more　like　a　gun。〃

〃You　don't　think　we　can　have　made　a　mistake？〃　suggested　Harris。
〃You　don't　think　this　can　be　anything　in　the　nature　of　a　private
orchard？〃

I　said：　　〃Do　you　remember　the　sad　thing　that　happened　in　the　South
of　France　some　two　years　ago？　　A　soldier　picked　some　cherries　as　he
passed　a　house；　and　the　French　peasant　to　whom　the　cherries
belonged　came　out；　and　without　a　word　of　warning　shot　him　dead。〃

〃But　surely　you　are　not　allowed　to　shoot　a　man　dead　for　picking
fruit；　even　in　France？〃　said　George。

〃Of　course　not；〃　I　answered。　　〃It　was　quite　illegal。　　The　only
excuse　offered　by　his　counsel　was　that　he　was　of　a　highly　excitable
disposition；　and　especially　keen　about　these　particular　cherries。〃

〃I　recollect　something　about　the　case；〃　said　Harris；　〃now　you
mention　it。　　I　believe　the　district　in　which　it　happenedthe
'Commune；'　as　I　think　it　is　calledhad　to　pay　heavy　compensation
to　the　relatives　of　the　deceased　soldier；　which　was　only　fair。〃

George　said：　　〃I　am　tired　of　this　place。　　Besides；　it's　getting
late。〃

Harris　said：　　〃If　he　goes　at　that　rate　he　will　fall　and　hurt
himself。　　Besides；　I　don't　believe　he　knows　the　way。〃

I　felt　lonesome　up　there　all　by　myself；　with　nobody　to　speak　to。
Besides；　not　since　I　was　a　boy；　I　reflected；　had　I　enjoyed　a　run
down　a　really　steep　hill。　　I　thought　I　would　see　if　I　could　revive
the　sensation。　　It　is　a　jerky　exercise；　but　good；　I　should　say；　for
the　liver。

We　slept　that　night　at　Barr；　a　pleasant　little　town　on　the　way　to
St。　Ottilienberg；　an　interesting　old　convent　among　the　mountains；
where　you　are　waited　upon　by　real　nuns；　and　your　bill　made　out　by　a
priest。　　At　Barr；　just　before　supper　a　tourist　entered。　　He　looked
English；　but　spoke　a　language　the　like　of　which　I　have　never　heard
before。　　Yet　it　was　an　elegant　and　fine…sounding　language。　　The
landlord　stared　at　him　blankly；　the　landlady　shook　her　head。　　He
sighed；　and　tried　another；　which　somehow　recalled　to　me　forgotten
memories；　though；　at　the　time；　I　could　not　fix　it。　　But　again
nobody　understood　him。

〃This　is　damnable；〃　he　said　aloud　to　himself。

〃Ah；　you　are　English！〃　exclaimed　the　landlord；　brightening　up。

〃And　Monsieur　looks　tired；〃　added　the　bright　little　landlady。
〃Monsieur　will　have　supper。〃

They　both　spoke　English　excellently；　nearly　as　well　as　they　spoke
French　and　German；　and　they　bustled　about　and　made　him　comfortable。
At　supper　he　sat　next　to　me；　and　I　talked　to　him。

〃Tell　me；〃　I　saidI　was　curious　on　the　subject〃what　language　was
it　you　spoke　when　you　first　came　in？〃

〃German；〃　he　explained。

〃Oh；〃　I　replied；　〃I　beg　your　pardon。〃

〃You　did　not　understand　it？〃　he　continued。

〃It　must　have　been　my　fault；〃　I　answered；　〃my　knowledge　is
extremely　limited。　　One　picks　up　a　little　here　and　there　as　one
goes　about；　but　of　course　that　is　a　different　thing。〃

〃But　THEY　did　not　understand　it；〃　he　replied；　〃the　landlord　and　his
wife；　and　it　is　their　own　language。〃

〃I　do　not　think　so；〃　I　said。　　〃The　children　hereabout　speak　German；
it　is　true；　and　our　landlord　and　landlady　know　German　to　a　certain
point。　　But　throughout　Alsace　and　Lorraine　the　old　people　still
talk　French。〃

〃And　I　spoke　to　them　in　French　also；〃　he　added；　〃and　they
understood　that　no　better。〃

〃It　is　certainly　very　curious；〃　I　agreed。

〃It　is　more　than　curious；〃　he　replied；　〃in　my　case　it　is
incomprehensible。　　I　possess　a　diploma　for　modern　languages。　　I　won
my　scholarship　purely　on　the　strength　of　my　French　and　German。　　The
correctness　of　my　construction；　the　purity　of　my　pronunciation；　was
considered　at　my　college　to　be　quite　remarkable。　　Yet；　when　I　come
abroad　hardly　anybody　understands　a　word　I　say。　　Can　you　explain
it？〃

〃I　think　I　can；〃　I　replied。　　〃Your　pronunciation　is　too　faultless。
You　remember　what　the　Scotsman　said　when　for　the　first　time　in　his
life　he　tasted　real　whisky：　　'It　may　be　puir；　but　I　canna　drink
it'；　so　it　is　with　your　German。　　It　strikes　one　less　as　a　language
than　as　an　exhibition。　　If　I　might　offer　advice；　I　should　say：
Mispronounce　as　much　as　possible；　and　throw　in　as　many　mistakes　as
you　can　think　of。〃

It　is　the　same　everywhere。　　Each　country　keeps　a　special
pronunciation　exclusively　for　the　use　of　foreignersa
pronunciation　they　never　dream　of　using　themselves；　that　they
cannot　understand　when　it　is　used。　　I　once　heard　an　English　lady
explaining　to　a　Frenchman　how　to　pronounce　the　word　Have。

〃You　will　pronounce　it；〃　said　the　lady　reproachfully；　〃as　if　it
were　spelt　H…a…v。　　It　isn't。　　There　is　an　'e'　at　the　end。〃

〃But　I　thought；〃　said　the　pupil；　〃that　you　did　not　sound　the　'e'　at
the　end　of　h…a…v…e。〃

〃No　more　you　do；〃　explained　his　teacher。　　〃It　is　what　we　call　a
mute　'e'；　but　it　exercises　a　modifying　influence　on　the　preceding
vowel。〃

Before　that；　he　used　to　say　〃have〃　quite　intelligently。
Afterwards；　when　he　came　to　the　word　he　would　stop　dead；　collect
his　thoughts；　and　give　expression　to　a　sound　that　only　the　context
could　explain。

Putting　aside　the　sufferings　of　the　early　martyrs；　few　men；　I
suppose；　have　gone　through　more　than　I　myself　went　through　in
trying　to　I　attain　the　correct　pronunciation　of　the　German　word　for
church〃Kirche。〃　　Long　before　I　had　done　with　it　I　had　determined
never　to　go　to　church　in　Germany；　rather　than　be　bothered　with　it。

〃No；　no；〃　my　teacher　would　explainhe　was　a　painstaking　gentleman；
〃you　say　it　as　if　it　were　spelt　K…i…r…c…h…k…e。　　There　is　no　k。　　It
is。〃　　And　he　would　illustrate　to　me　again；　for　the　twentieth　time
that　morning；　how　it　should　be　pronounced；　the　sad　thing　being　that
I　could　never　for　the　life　of　me　detect　any　difference　between　the
way　he　said　it　and　the　way　I　said　it。　　So　he　would　try　a　new
method。

〃You　say　it　from　your　throat；〃　he　would　explain。　　He　was　quite
right；　I　did。　　〃I　want　you　to　say　it　from　down　here；〃　and　with　a
fat　forefinger　he　would　indicate　the　region　from　where　I　was　to
start。　　After　painful　efforts；　resulting　in　sounds　suggestive　of
anything　rather　than　a　place　of　worship；　I　would　excuse　myself。

〃I　really　fear　it　is　impossible；〃　I　would　say。　　〃You　see；　for　years
I　have　always　talked　with　my　mouth；　as　it　were；　I　never　knew　a　man
could　talk　with　his　stomach。　　I　doubt　if　it　is　not　too　late　now　for
me　to　learn。〃

By　spending　hours　in　dark　corners；　and　practising　in　silent
streets；　to　the　terror　of　chance　passers…by；　I　came　at　last　to
pronounce　this　word　correctly。　　My　teacher　was　delighted　with　me；
and　until　I　came　to　Germany　I　was　pleased　with　myself。　　In　Germany
I　found　that　nobody　understood　what　I　meant　by　it。　　I　never　got
near　a　church　with　it。　　I　had　to　drop　the　correct　pronunciation；
and　painstakingly　go　back　to　my　first　wrong　pronunciation。　　Then
they　would　brighten　up；　and　tell　me　it　was　round　the　corner；　or
down　the　next　street；　as　the　case　might　be。

I　also　think　pronunciation　of　a　foreign　tongue　could　be　better
taught　than　by　demanding　from　the　pupil　those　internal　acrobatic
feats　that　are　generally　impossible　and　always　useless。　　This　is
the　sort　of　instruction　one　receives：

〃Press　your　tonsils　against　the　underside　of　your　larynx。　　Then
with　the　convex　part　of　the　septum　curved　upwards　so　as　almostbut
not　quiteto　touch　the　uvula；　try　with　the　tip　of　your　tongue　to
reach　your　thyroid。　　Take　a　deep　breath；　and　compress　your　glottis。
Now；　without　opening　your　lips；　say　'Garoo。'〃

And　when　you　have　done　it　they　are　not　satisfied。



CHAPTER　XIII



An　examination　into　the　character　and　behaviour　of　the　German
studentThe　German　MensurUses　and　abuses　of　useViews　of　an
impressionistThe　humour　of　the　thingRecipe　for　making　savages
The　Jungfrau：　　her　peculiar　taste　in　lacesThe　KneipeHow　to　rub
a　SalamanderAdvice　to　the　strangerA　story　that　might　have　ended
sadlyOf　two　men　and　two　wivesTogether　with　a　bachelor。

On　our　way　home　we　included　a　German　University　town；　being　wishful
to　obtain　an　insight　into　the　ways　of　student　life；　a　curiosity
that　the　courtesy　of　German　friends　enabled　us　to　gratify。

The　English　boy　plays　till　he　is　fifteen；　and　works　thence　till
twenty。　　In　Germany　it　is　the　child　that　works；　the　young　man　that
plays。　　The　German　boy　goes　to　school　at　seven　o'clock　in　the
summer；　at　eight　in　the　winter；