the malay archipelago-1-第21章

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The　road　to　Wonosalem　led　through　a　magnificent　forest　in　the　depths　of　which　we　passed　a　fine　ruin　of　what　appeared　to　have　been　a　royal　tomb　or　mausoleum。　It　is　formed　entirely　of　stone；　and　elaborately　carved。　Near　the　base　is　a　course　of　boldly　projecting　blocks；　sculptured　in　high　relief；　with　a　series　of　scenes　which　are　probably　incidents　in　the　life　of　the　defunct。　These　are　all　beautifully　executed；　some　of　the　figures　of　animals　in　particular；　being　easily　recognisable　and　very　accurate。　The　general　design；　as　far　as　the　ruined　state　of　the　upper　part　will　permit　of　its　being　seen；　is　very　good；　effect　being　given　by　an　immense　number　and　variety　of　projecting　or　retreating　courses　of　squared　stones　in　place　of　mouldings。　The　size　of　this　structure　is　about　thirty　feet　square　by　twenty　high；　and　as　the　traveller　comes　suddenly　upon　it　on　a　small　elevation　by　the　roadside；　overshadowed　by　gigantic　trees；　overrun　with　plants　and　creepers；　and　closely　backed　by　the　gloomy　forest；　he　is　struck　by　the　solemnity　and　picturesque　beauty　of　the　scene；　and　is　led　to　ponder　on　the　strange　law　of　progress；　which　looks　so　like　retrogression；　and　which　in　so　many　distant　parts　of　the　world　has　exterminated　or　driven　out　a　highly　artistic　and　constructive　race；　to　make　room　for　one　which；　as　far　as　we　can　judge；　is　very　far　its　inferior。

Few　Englishmen　are　aware　of　the　number　and　beauty　of　the　architectural　remains　in　Java。　They　have　never　been　popularly　illustrated　or　described；　and　it　will　therefore　take　most　persons　by　surprise　to　learn　that　they　far　surpass　those　of　Central　America；　perhaps　even　those　of　India。　To　give　some　idea　of　these　ruins；　and　perchance　to　excite　wealthy　amateurs　to　explore　them　thoroughly　and　obtain　by　photography　an　accurate　record　of　their　beautiful　sculptures　before　it　is　too　late；　I　will　enumerate　the　most　important；　as　briefly　described　in　Sir　Stamford　Raffles'　〃History　of　Java。〃

BRAMBANAM。Near　the　centre　of　Java；　between　the　native　capitals　of　Djoko…kerta　and　Surakerta；　is　the　village　of　Brambanam；　near　which　are　abundance　of　ruins；　the　most　important　being　the　temples　of　Loro…Jongran　and　Chandi　Sewa。　At　Loro…Jongran　there　were　twenty　separate　buildings；　six　large　and　fourteen　small　temples。　They　are　now　a　mass　of　ruins；　but　the　largest　temples　are　supposed　to　have　been　ninety　feet　high。　They　were　all　constructed　of　solid　stone；　everywhere　decorated　with　carvings　and　bas…reliefs；　and　adorned　with　numbers　of　statues；　many　of　which　still　remain　entire。　At　Chandi　Sewa；　or　the　〃Thousand　Temples；〃　are　many　fine　colossal　figures。　Captain　Baker；　who　surveyed　these　ruins；　said　he　had　never　in　his　life　seen　〃such　stupendous　and　finished　specimens　of　human　labour；　and　of　the　science　and　taste　of　ages　long　since　forgot；　crowded　together　in　so　small　a　compass　as　in　this　spot。〃　They　cover　a　space　of　nearly　six　hundred　feet　square；　and　consist　of　an　outer　row　of　eighty…　four　small　temples；　a　second　row　of　seventy…six；　a　third　of　sixty…four；　a　fourth　of　forty…four；　and　the　fifth　forming　an　inner　parallelogram　of　twenty…eight；　in　all　two　hundred　and　ninety…six　small　temples；　disposed　in　five　regular　parallelograms。　In　the　centre　is　a　large　cruciform　temple　surrounded　by　lofty　flights　of　steps　richly　ornamented　with　sculpture；　and　containing　many　apartments。　The　tropical　vegetation　has　ruined　most　of　the　smaller　temples；　but　some　remain　tolerably　perfect；　from　which　the　effect　of　the　whole　may　be　imagined。

About　half　a　mile　off　is　another　temple；　called　Chandi　Kali　Bening；　seventy…two　feet　square　and　sixty　feet　high；　in　very　fine　preservation；　and　covered　with　sculptures　of　Hindu　mythology　surpassing　any　that　exist　in　India；　other　ruins　of　palaces；　halls；　and　temples；　with　abundance　of　sculptured　deities；　are　found　in　the　same　neighbourhood。

BOROBODO。About　eighty　miles　westward；　in　the　province　of　Kedu；　is　the　great　temple　of　Borobodo。　It　is　built　upon　a　small　hill；　and　consists　of　a　central　dome　and　seven　ranges　of　terraced　walls　covering　the　slope　of　the　hill　and　forming　open　galleries　each　below　the　other；　and　communicating　by　steps　and　gateways。　The　central　dome　is　fifty　feet　in　diameter；　around　it　is　a　triple　circle　of　seventy…two　towers；　and　the　whole　building　is　six　hundred　and　twenty　feet　square；　and　about　one　hundred　feet　high。　In　the　terrace　walls　are　niches　containing　cross…legged　figures　larger　than　life　to　the　number　of　about　four　hundred；　and　both　sides　of　all　the　terrace　walls　are　covered　with　bas…reliefs　crowded　with　figures；　and　carved　in　hard　stone　and　which　must　therefore　occupy　an　extent　of　nearly　three　miles　in　length！　The　amount　of　human　labour　and　skill　expended　on　the　Great　Pyramid　of　Egypt　sinks　into　insignificance　when　compared　with　that　required　to　complete　this　sculptured　hill…temple　in　the　interior　of　Java。

GUNONG　PRAU。About　forty　miles　southwest　of　Samarang；　on　a　mountain　called　Gunong　Prau；　an　extensive　plateau　is　covered　with　ruins。　To　reach　these　temples；　four　flights　of　stone　steps　were　made　up　the　mountain　from　opposite　directions；　each　flight　consisting　of　more　than　a　thousand　steps。　Traces　of　nearly　four　hundred　temples　have　been　found　here；　and　many　（perhaps　all）　were　decorated　with　rich　and　delicate　sculptures。　The　whole　country　between　this　and　Brambanam；　a　distance　of　sixty　miles；　abounds　with　ruins；　so　that　fine　sculptured　images　may　be　seen　lying　in　the　ditches；　or　built　into　the　walls　of　enclosures。

In　the　eastern　part　of　Java；　at　Kediri　and　in　Malang；　there　are　equally　abundant　traces　of　antiquity；　but　the　buildings　themselves　have　been　mostly　destroyed。　Sculptured　figures；　however；　abound；　and　the　ruins　of　forts；　palaces；　baths；　aqueducts；　and　temples；　can　be　everywhere　traced。　It　is　altogether　contrary　to　the　plan　of　this　book　to　describe　what　I　have　not　myself　seen；　but；　having　been　led　to　mention　them；　I　felt　bound　to　do　something　to　call　attention　to　these　marvellous　works　of　art。　One　is　overwhelmed　by　the　contemplation　of　these　innumerable　sculptures；　worked　with　delicacy　and　artistic　feeling　in　a　hard；　intractable；　trachytic　rock；　and　all　found　in　one　tropical　island。　What　could　have　been　the　state　of　society；　what　the　amount　of　population；　what　the　means　of　subsistence　which　rendered　such　gigantic　works　possible；　will；　perhaps；　ever　remain　a　mystery；　and　it　is　a　wonderful　example　of　the　power　of　religious　ideas　in　social　life；　that　in　the　very　country　where；　five　hundred　years　ago；　these　grand　works　were　being　yearly　executed；　the　inhabitants　now　only　build　rude　houses　of　bamboo　and　thatch；　and　look　upon　these　relics　of　their　forefathers　with　ignorant　amazement；　as　the　undoubted　productions　of　giants　or　of　demons。　It　is　much　to　be　regretted　that　the　Dutch　Government　does　not　take　vigorous　steps　for　the　preservation　of　these　ruins　from　the　destroying　agency　of　tropical　vegetation；　and　for　the　collection　of　the　fine　sculptures　which　are　everywhere　scattered　over　the　land。

Wonosalem　is　situated　about　a　thousand　feet　above　the　sea；　but　unfortunately　it　is　at　a　distance　from　the　forest；　and　is　surrounded　by　coffee　plantations；　thickets　of　bamboo；　and　coarse　grasses。　It　was　too　far　to　walk　back　daily　to　the　forest；　and　in　other　directions　I　could　find　no　collecting　ground　for　insects。　The　place　was；　however；　famous　for　peacocks；　and　my　boy　soon　shot　several　of　these　magnificent　birds；　whose　flesh　we　found　to　be　tender；　white；　and　delicate；　and　similar　to　that　of　a　turkey。　The　Java　peacock　is　a　different　species　from　that　of　India；　the　neck　being　covered　with　scale…like　green　feathers；　and　the　crest　of　a　different　form；　but　the　eyed　train　is　equally　large　and　equally　beautiful。　It　is　a　singular　fact　in　geographical　distribution　that　the　peacock　should　not　be　found　in　Sumatra　or　Borneo；　while　the　superb　Argus；　Fire…backed　and　Ocellated　pheasants　of　those　islands　are　equally　unknown　in　Java。　Exactly　parallel　is　the　fact　that　in　Ceylon　and　Southern　India；　where　the　peacock　abounds；　there　are　none　of　the　splendid　Lophophori　and　other　gorgeous　pheasants　which　inhabit　Northern　India。　It　would　seem　as　if　the　peacock　can　admit　of　no　rivals　in　its　domain。　Were　these　birds　rare　in　their　native　country；　and　unknown　alive　in　Europe；　they　would　assuredly　be　considered　as　the　true　princes　of　the　feathered　tribes；　and　altogether　unrivalled　for　stateliness　and　beauty。　As　it　is；　I　suppose　scarcely　anyone　if　asked　to　fix　upon　the　most　beautiful　bird　in　the　world　would　name　the　peacock；　any　more　than　the　Papuan　savage　or　the　Bugis　trader　would　fix　upon　the　bird　of　paradise　for　the　same　honour。

Three　days　after　my　arrival　at　Wonosalem；　my　friend　Mr。　Ball　came　to　pay　me　a　visit。　He　told　me　that　two　evenings　before；　a　boy　had　been　killed　and　eaten　by　a　tiger　close　to　Modjo…agong。　He　was　riding　on　a　cart　drawn　by　bullocks；　and　was　coming　home　about　dusk　on　the　main　road；　and　when　not　half　a　mile　from　the　village　a　tiger　sprang　upon　him；　carried　him　off　into　the　jungle　close　by；　and　devoured　him。　Next　morning　his　remains　were　discovered；　consisting　only　of　a　few　mangled　bones。　The　Waidono　had　got　together　about　seven　hundred　men；　and　were　in　chase　of　the　animal；　which；　I　afterwards　heard；　they　found　and　killed。　They　only　use　spears　when　in　pursuit　of　a　tiger　in　this　way。　They　surround　a　large　tract　of　country；　and　draw　gradually　together　until　the　animal　is　enclosed　in　a　compact　ring　of　armed　men。　When　he　sees　there　is　no　escape　he　generally　makes　a　spring；　and　is　received　on　a　dozen　spears；　and　almost　instantly　stabbed　to　death。　The　skin　of　an　animal　thus　killed　is；　of　course；　worthless；　and　in　this　case　the　skull；　which　I　had　begged　Mr。　Ball　to　secure　for　me；　was　hacked　to　pieces　to　divide　the　teeth；　which　are　worn　as　charms。

After　a　week　at　Wonosalem；　I　returned　to　the　foot　of　the　mountain；　to　a　village　named　Djapannan；　which　was　surrounded　by　several　patches　of　forest；　and　seemed　altogether　pretty　well　spited　to　my　pursuits。　The　chief　of　the　village　had　prepared　two　small　bamboo　rooms　on　one　side　of　his　own　courtyard　to　accommodate　me；　and　seemed　inclined　to　assist　me　as　much　as　he　could。　The　weather　was　exceedingly　hot　and　dry；　no　rain　having　fallen　for　several　months；　and　there　was；　in　consequence；　a　great　scarcity　of　insects；　and　especially　of　beetles。　I　therefore　devoted　myself　chiefly　to　obtaining　a　good　set　of　the　birds；　and　succeeded　in　making　a　tolerable　collection。　All　the　peacocks　we　had　hitherto　shot　had　had　short　or　imperfect　tails；　but　I　now　obtained　two　magnificent　specimens　more　than　seven　feet　long；　one　of　which　I　preserved　entire；　while　I　kept　the　train　only　attached　to　the　tail　of　two　or　three　others。　When　this　bird　is　seen　feeding　on　the　ground；　it　appears　wonderful　how　it　can　rise　into　the　air　with　such　a　long　and　cumbersome　train　of　feathers。　It　does　so　however　with　great　ease；　by　running　quickly　for　a　short　distance；　and　then　rising　obliquely；　and　will　fly　over　trees　of　a　considerable　height。　I　also　obtained　here　a　specimen　of　the　rare　green　jungle…fowl　（Gallus　furcatus）；　whose　back　and　neck　are　beautifully　scaled　with　bronzy　feathers；　and　whose　smooth…edged　oval　comb　is　of　a　violet　purple　colour；　changing　to　green　at　the　base。　It　is　also　remarkable　in　possessing　a　single　large　wattle　beneath　its　throat；　brightly　coloured　in　three　patches　of　red；　yellow；　and　b