the malay archipelago-1-第29章
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been contorted and tilted up； and how elevations and depressions must often have occurred alternately； not once or twice only； but scores and even hundreds of times； will have no difficulty in admitting that such changes as have been here indicated； are not in themselves improbable。 The existence of extensive coal…beds in Borneo and Sumatra； of such recent origin that the leaves which abound in their shales are scarcely distinguishable from those of the forests which now cover the country； proves that such changes of level actually did take place； and it is a matter of much interest； both to the geologist and to the philosophic naturalist； to be able to form some conception of the order of those changes； and to understand how they may have resulted in the actual distribution of animal life in these countries； a distribution which often presents phenomena so strange and contradictory； that without taking such changes into consideration we are unable even to imagine how they could have been brought about。
CHAPTER X。
BALI AND LOMBOCK。
（JUNE； JULY； 1856。）
THE islands of Bali and Lombock； situated at the eastern end of Java； are particularly interesting。 They are the only islands of the whole Archipelago in which the Hindu religion still maintains itselfand they form the extreme points of the two great zoological divisions of the Eastern hemisphere； for although so similar in external appearance and in all physical features； they differ greatly in their natural productions。 It was after having spent two years in Borneo； Malacca and Singapore； that I made a somewhat involuntary visit to these islands on my way to Macassar。 Had I been able to obtain a passage direct to that place from Singapore； I should probably never have gone near them； and should have missed some of the most important discoveries of my whole expedition the East。
It was on the 13th of June； 1856； after a twenty days' passage from Singapore in the 〃Kembang Djepoon〃 （Rose of Japan）； a schooner belonging to a Chinese merchant； manned by a Javanese crew； and commanded by an English captain； that we cast anchor in the dangerous roadstead of Bileling on the north side of the island of Bali。 Going on shore with the captain and the Chinese supercargo； I was at once introduced to a novel and interesting scene。 We went first to the house of the Chinese Bandar； or chief merchant； where we found a number of natives； well dressed； and all conspicuously armed with krisses； displaying their large handles of ivory or gold； or beautifully grained and polished wood。
The Chinamen had given up their national costume and adopted the Malay dress； and could then hardly be distinguished from the natives of the islandan indication of the close affinity of the Malayan and Mongolian races。 Under the thick shade of some mango… trees close by the house； several women…merchants were selling cotton goods； for here the women trade and work for the benefit of their husbands； a custom which Mahometan Malays never adopt。 Fruit； tea； cakes； and sweetmeats were brought to us； many questions were asked about our business and the state of trade in Singapore； and we then took a walk to look at the village。 It was a very dull and dreary place； a collection of narrow lanes bounded by high mud walls； enclosing bamboo houses； into some of which we entered and were very kindly received。
During the two days that we remained here； I walked out into the surrounding country to catch insects； shoot birds； and spy out the nakedness or fertility of the land。 I was both astonished and delighted； for as my visit to Java was some years later； I had never beheld so beautiful and well cultivated a district out of Europe。 A slightly undulating plain extends from the seacoast about ten or twelve miles inland； where it is bounded by a wide range of wooded and cultivated hills。 Houses and villages； marked out by dense clumps of cocoa…nut palms； tamarind and other fruit trees； are dotted about in every direction； while between then extend luxuriant rice…grounds； watered by an elaborate system of irrigation that would be the pride of the best cultivated parts of Europe。 The whole surface of the country is divided into irregular patches； following the undulations of the ground； from many acres to a few perches in extent； each of which is itself perfectly level； but stands a few inches or several feet above or below those adjacent to it。 Every one of these patches can be flooded or drained at will by means of a system of ditches and small channels； into which are diverted the whole of the streams that descend from the mountains。 Every patch now bore crops in various stages of growth； some almost ready for cutting； and all in the most flourishing condition and of the most exquisite green tints。
The sides of the lanes and bridle roads were often edged with prickly Cacti and a leafless Euphorbia； but the country being so highly cultivated there was not much room for indigenous vegetation； except upon the sea…beach。 We saw plenty of the fine race of domestic cattle descended from the Bos banteng of Java； driven by half naked boys； or tethered in pasture…grounds。 They are large and handsome animals； of a light brown colour； with white legs； and a conspicuous oval patch behind of the same colour。 Wild cattle of the same race are said to be still found in the mountains。 In so well…cultivated a country it was not to be expected that I could do much in natural history； and my ignorance of how important a locality this was for the elucidation of the geographical distribution of animals； caused me to neglect obtaining some specimens which I never met with again。 One of these was a weaver bird with a bright yellow head； which built its bottle…shaped nests by dozens on some trees near the beach。 It was the Ploceus hypoxantha； a native of Java； and here； at the extreme limits of its range westerly； I shot and preserved specimens of a wagtail…thrush； an oriole； and some starlings； all species found in Java； and some of them peculiar to that island。 I also obtained some beautiful butterflies； richly marked with black and orange on a white ground； and which were the most abundant insects in the country lanes。 Among these was a new species； which I have named Pieris tamar。
Leaving Bileling； a pleasant sail of two days brought us to Ampanam in the island of Lombock； where I proposed to remain till I could obtain a passage to Macassar。 We enjoyed superb views of the twin volcanoes of Bali and Lombock； each about eight thousand feet high； which form magnificent objects at sunrise and sunset； when they rise out of the mists and clouds that surround their bases； glowing with the rich and changing tints of these the most charming moments in a tropical day。
The bay or roadstead of Ampanam is extensive； and being at this season sheltered from the prevalent southeasterly winds； was as smooth as a lake。 The beach of black volcanic sand is very steep； and there is at all times； a heavy surf upon it； which during spring…tides increases to such an extent that it is often impossible for boats to land； and many serious accidents have occurred。 Where we lay anchored； about a quarter of a mile from the shore； not the slightest swell was perceptible； but on approaching nearer undulations began； which rapidly increased； so as to form rollers which toppled over onto the beach at regular intervals with a noise like thunder。 Sometimes this surf increases suddenly during perfect calms to as great a force and fury as when a gale of wind is blowing； beating to pieces all boats that may not have been hauled sufficiently high upon the beach； and carrying away uncautious natives。 This violent surf is probably in some way dependent upon the swell of the great southern ocean and the violent currents that flow through the Straits of Lombock。 These are so uncertain that vessels preparing to anchor in the bay are sometimes suddenly swept away into the straits； and are not able to get back again for a fortnight。
What seamen call the 〃ripples〃 are also very violent in the straits； the sea appearing to boil and foam and dance like the rapids below a cataract； vessels are swept about helplessly； and small ones are occasionally swamped in the finest weather and under the brightest skies。
I felt considerably relieved when all my boxes and myself had passed in safety through the devouring surf； which the natives look upon with some pride； saying； that 〃their sea is always hungry； and eats up everything it can catch。〃 I was kindly received by Mr。 Carter； an Englishman； who is one of the Bandars or licensed traders of the port； who offered me hospitality and every assistance during my stay。 His house； storehouses； and offices were in a yard surrounded by a tall bamboo fence； and were entirely constructed of bamboo with a thatch of grass； the only available building materials。 Even these were now very scarce； owing to the great consumption in rebuilding the place since the great fire some months before； which in an hour or two had destroyed every building in the town。
The next day I went to see Mr。 S。； another merchant to whom I had brought letters of introduction； and who lived about seven miles off。 Mr。 Carter kindly lent me a horse； and I was accompanied by a young Dutch gentleman residing at Ampanam； who offered to be my guide。 We first passed through the town and suburbs along a straight road bordered by mud walls and a fine avenue of lofty trees； then through rice…fields； irrigated in the same manner as I had seen them at Bileling； and afterwards over sandy pastures near the sea； and occasionally along the beach itself。 Mr。 S。 received us kindly； and offered me a residence at his house should I think the neighbourhood favourable for my pursuits。 After an early breakfast we went out to explore； taking guns and insect nets。 We reached some low hills which seemed to offer the most favourable ground； passing over swamps； sandy flats overgrown with coarse sedges； and through pastures and cultivated grounds； finding however very little in the way of either birds or insects。 On our way we passed one or two human skeletons； enclosed within a small bamboo fence； with the clothes； pillow； mat； and betel…box of the unfortunate individual； who had been either murdered or executed。 Returning to the house； we found a Balinese chief and his followers on a visit。 Those of higher rank sat on chairs； the others squatted on the floor。 The chief very coolly asked for beer and brandy； and helped himself and his followers； apparently more out of curiosity than anything else as regards the beer； for it seemed very distasteful to them； while they drank the brandy in tumblers with much relish。
Returning to Ampanam； I devoted myself for some days to shooting the birds of the neighbourhood。 The fine fig…trees of the avenues； where a market was held； were tenanted by superb orioles （Oriolus broderpii） of a rich orange colour； and peculiar to this island and the adjacent ones of Sumbawa and Flores。 All round the town were abundance of the curious Tropidorhynchus timoriensis； allied to the Friar bird of Australia。 They are here called 〃Quaich…quaich；〃 from their strange loud voice； which seems to repeat these words in various and not unmelodious intonations。
Every day boys were to be se
