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CHAPTER¡¡XIII¡£

TIMOR¡£

£¨COUPANG£»¡¡1857¡­1869¡£¡¡DELLI£»¡¡1861¡££©

THE¡¡island¡¡of¡¡Timor¡¡is¡¡about¡¡three¡¡hundred¡¡miles¡¡long¡¡and¡¡sixty¡¡wide£»¡¡and¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡form¡¡the¡¡termination¡¡of¡¡the¡¡great¡¡range¡¡of¡¡volcanic¡¡islands¡¡which¡¡begins¡¡with¡¡Sumatra¡¡more¡¡than¡¡two¡¡thousand¡¡miles¡¡to¡¡the¡¡west¡£¡¡It¡¡differs¡¡however¡¡very¡¡remarkably¡¡from¡¡all¡¡the¡¡other¡¡islands¡¡of¡¡the¡¡chain¡¡in¡¡not¡¡possessing¡¡any¡¡active¡¡volcanoes£»¡¡with¡¡the¡¡one¡¡exception¡¡of¡¡Timor¡¡Peak¡¡near¡¡the¡¡centre¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island£»¡¡which¡¡was¡¡formerly¡¡active£»¡¡but¡¡was¡¡blown¡¡up¡¡during¡¡an¡¡eruption¡¡in¡¡1638¡¡and¡¡has¡¡since¡¡been¡¡quiescent¡£¡¡In¡¡no¡¡other¡¡part¡¡of¡¡Timor¡¡do¡¡there¡¡appear¡¡to¡¡be¡¡any¡¡recent¡¡igneous¡¡rocks£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡it¡¡can¡¡hardly¡¡be¡¡classed¡¡as¡¡a¡¡volcanic¡¡island¡£¡¡Indeed¡¡its¡¡position¡¡is¡¡just¡¡outside¡¡of¡¡the¡¡great¡¡volcanic¡¡belt£»¡¡which¡¡extends¡¡from¡¡Flores¡¡through¡¡Ombay¡¡and¡¡Wetter¡¡to¡¡Banda¡£

I¡¡first¡¡visited¡¡Timor¡¡in¡¡1857£»¡¡staying¡¡a¡¡day¡¡at¡¡Coupang£»¡¡the¡¡chief¡¡Dutch¡¡town¡¡at¡¡the¡¡west¡¡end¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island£»¡¡and¡¡again¡¡in¡¡May¡¡1859£»¡¡when¡¡I¡¡stayed¡¡a¡¡fortnight¡¡in¡¡the¡¡same¡¡neighbourhood¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡spring¡¡of¡¡1861¡¡I¡¡spent¡¡four¡¡months¡¡at¡¡Delli£»¡¡the¡¡capital¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Portuguese¡¡possessions¡¡in¡¡the¡¡eastern¡¡part¡¡of¡¡the¡¡island¡£

The¡¡whole¡¡neighbourhood¡¡of¡¡Coupang¡¡appears¡¡to¡¡have¡¡been¡¡elevated¡¡at¡¡a¡¡recent¡¡epoch£»¡¡consisting¡¡of¡¡a¡¡rugged¡¡surface¡¡of¡¡coral¡¡rock£»¡¡which¡¡rises¡¡in¡¡a¡¡vertical¡¡wall¡¡between¡¡the¡¡beach¡¡and¡¡the¡¡town£»¡¡whose¡¡low£»¡¡white£»¡¡red¡­tiled¡¡houses¡¡give¡¡it¡¡an¡¡appearance¡¡very¡¡similar¡¡to¡¡other¡¡Dutch¡¡settlements¡¡in¡¡the¡¡East¡£¡¡The¡¡vegetation¡¡is¡¡everywhere¡¡scanty¡¡and¡¡scrubby¡£¡¡Plants¡¡of¡¡the¡¡families¡¡Apocynaceae¡¡and¡¡Euphorbiacea£»¡¡abound£»¡¡but¡¡there¡¡is¡¡nothing¡¡that¡¡can¡¡be¡¡called¡¡a¡¡forest£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡country¡¡has¡¡a¡¡parched¡¡and¡¡desolate¡¡appearance£»¡¡contrasting¡¡strongly¡¡with¡¡the¡¡lofty¡¡forest¡¡trees¡¡and¡¡perennial¡¡verdure¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Moluccas¡¡or¡¡of¡¡Singapore¡£¡¡The¡¡most¡¡conspicuous¡¡feature¡¡of¡¡the¡¡vegetation¡¡was¡¡the¡¡abundance¡¡of¡¡fine¡¡fanleaved¡¡palms¡¡£¨Borassus¡¡flabelliformis£©£»¡¡from¡¡the¡¡leaves¡¡of¡¡which¡¡are¡¡constructed¡¡the¡¡strong¡¡and¡¡durable¡¡water¡­buckets¡¡in¡¡general¡¡use£»¡¡and¡¡which¡¡are¡¡much¡¡superior¡¡to¡¡those¡¡formed¡¡from¡¡any¡¡other¡¡species¡¡of¡¡palm¡£¡¡From¡¡the¡¡same¡¡tree£»¡¡palm¡­wine¡¡and¡¡sugar¡¡are¡¡made£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡common¡¡thatch¡¡for¡¡houses¡¡formed¡¡of¡¡the¡¡leaves¡¡lasts¡¡six¡¡or¡¡seven¡¡years¡¡without¡¡removal¡£¡¡Close¡¡to¡¡the¡¡town¡¡I¡¡noticed¡¡the¡¡foundation¡¡of¡¡a¡¡ruined¡¡house¡¡below¡¡high¡­water¡¡mark£»¡¡indicating¡¡recent¡¡subsidence¡£¡¡Earthquakes¡¡are¡¡not¡¡severe¡¡here£»¡¡and¡¡are¡¡so¡¡infrequent¡¡and¡¡harmless¡¡that¡¡the¡¡chief¡¡houses¡¡are¡¡built¡¡of¡¡stone¡£

The¡¡inhabitants¡¡of¡¡Coupang¡¡consist¡¡of¡¡Malays£»¡¡Chinese£»¡¡and¡¡Dutch£»¡¡besides¡¡the¡¡natives£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡there¡¡are¡¡many¡¡strange¡¡and¡¡complicated¡¡mixtures¡¡among¡¡the¡¡population¡£¡¡There¡¡is¡¡one¡¡resident¡¡English¡¡merchant£»¡¡and¡¡whalers¡¡as¡¡well¡¡as¡¡Australian¡¡ships¡¡often¡¡come¡¡here¡¡for¡¡stores¡¡and¡¡water¡£¡¡The¡¡native¡¡Timorese¡¡preponderate£»¡¡and¡¡a¡¡very¡¡little¡¡examination¡¡serves¡¡to¡¡show¡¡that¡¡they¡¡have¡¡nothing¡¡in¡¡common¡¡with¡¡Malays£»¡¡but¡¡are¡¡much¡¡more¡¡closely¡¡allied¡¡to¡¡the¡¡true¡¡Papuans¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Aru¡¡Islands¡¡and¡¡New¡¡Guinea¡£¡¡They¡¡are¡¡tall£»¡¡have¡¡pronounced¡¡features£»¡¡large¡¡somewhat¡¡aquiline¡¡noses£»¡¡and¡¡frizzly¡¡hair£»¡¡and¡¡are¡¡generally¡¡of¡¡a¡¡dusky¡¡brown¡¡colour¡£¡¡The¡¡way¡¡in¡¡which¡¡the¡¡women¡¡talk¡¡to¡¡each¡¡other¡¡and¡¡to¡¡the¡¡men£»¡¡their¡¡loud¡¡voices¡¡and¡¡laughter£»¡¡and¡¡general¡¡character¡¡of¡¡self¡­¡¡assertion£»¡¡would¡¡enable¡¡an¡¡experienced¡¡observer¡¡to¡¡decide£»¡¡even¡¡without¡¡seeing¡¡them£»¡¡that¡¡they¡¡were¡¡not¡¡Malays¡£

Mr¡£¡¡Arndt£»¡¡a¡¡German¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Government¡¡doctor£»¡¡invited¡¡me¡¡to¡¡stay¡¡at¡¡his¡¡house¡¡while¡¡in¡¡Coupang£»¡¡and¡¡I¡¡gladly¡¡accepted¡¡his¡¡offer£»¡¡as¡¡I¡¡only¡¡intended¡¡making¡¡a¡¡short¡¡visit¡£¡¡We¡¡at¡¡first¡¡began¡¡speaking¡¡French£»¡¡but¡¡he¡¡got¡¡on¡¡so¡¡badly¡¡that¡¡we¡¡soon¡¡passed¡¡insensibly¡¡into¡¡Malay£»¡¡and¡¡we¡¡afterwards¡¡held¡¡long¡¡discussions¡¡on¡¡literary£»¡¡scientific£»¡¡and¡¡philosophical¡¡questions¡¡in¡¡that¡¡semi¡­barbarous¡¡language£»¡¡whose¡¡deficiencies¡¡we¡¡made¡¡up¡¡by¡¡the¡¡free¡¡use¡¡of¡¡French¡¡or¡¡Latin¡¡words¡£

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