the malay archipelago-1-第42章

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ised　hut；　which　we　thought　would　do　well　for　us　to　breakfast　in；　so　I　entered；　and　found　inside　a　young　woman　with　an　infant。　She　handed　me　a　jug　of　water；　but　looked　very　much　frightened。　However；　I　sat　down　on　the　doorstep；　and　asked　for　the　provisions。　In　handing　them　up；　Baderoon　saw　the　infant；　and　started　back　as　if　he　had　seen　a　serpent。　It　then　immediately　struck　me　that　this　was　a　hut　in　which；　as　among　the　Dyaks　of　Borneo　and　many　other　savage　tribes；　the　women　are　secluded　for　some　time　after　the　birth　of　their　child；　and　that　we　did　very　wrong　to　enter　it；　so　we　walked　off　and　asked　permission　to　eat　our　breakfast　in　the　family　mansion　close　at　hand；　which　was　of　course　granted。　While　I　ate；　three　men；　two　women；　and　four　children　watched　every　motion；　and　never　took　eyes　off　me　until　I　had　finished。

On　our　way　back　in　the　heat　of　the　day；　I　had　the　good　fortune　to　capture　three　specimens　of　a　fine　Ornithoptera；　the　largest；　the　most　perfect；　and　the　most　beautiful　of　butterflies。　I　trembled　with　excitement　as　I　took　the　first　out　of　my　net　and　found　it　to　be　in　perfect　condition。　The　ground　colour　of　this　superb　insect　was　a　rich　shining　bronzy　black；　the　lower　wings　delicately　grained　with　white；　and　bordered　by　a　row　of　large　spots　of　the　most　brilliant　satiny　yellow。　The　body　was　marked　with　shaded　spots　of　white；　yellow；　and　fiery　orange；　while　the　head　and　thorax　were　intense　black。　On　the　under…side　the　lower　wings　were　satiny　white；　with　the　marginal　spots　half　black　and　half　yellow。　I　gazed　upon　my　prize　with　extreme　interest；　as　I　at　first　thought　it　was　quite　a　new　species。　It　proved　however　to　be　a　variety　of　Ornithoptera　remus；　one　of　the　rarest　and　most　remarkable　species　of　this　highly　esteemed　group。　I　also　obtained　several　other　new　and　pretty　butterflies。　When　we　arrived　at　our　lodging…house；　being　particularly　anxious　about　my　insect　treasures；　I　suspended　the　box　from　a　bamboo　on　which　I　could　detect　no　sign　of　ants；　and　then　began　skinning　some　of　my　birds。　During　my　work　I　often　glanced　at　my　precious　box　to　see　that　no　intruders　had　arrived；　until　after　a　longer　spell　of　work　than　usual　I　looked　again；　and　saw　to　my　horror　that　a　column　of　small　red　ants　were　descending　the　string　and　entering　the　box。　They　were　already　busy　at　work　at　the　bodies　of　my　treasures；　and　another　half…hour　would　have　seen　my　whole　day's　collection　destroyed。　As　it　was；　I　had　to　take　every　insect　out；　clean　them　thoroughly　as　well　as　the　box；　and　then　seek　a　place　of　safety　for　them。　As　the　only　effectual　one；　I　begged　a　plate　and　a　basin　from　my　host；　filled　the　former　with　water；　and　standing　the　latter　in　it　placed　my　box　on　the　top；　and　then　felt　secure　for　the　night；　a　few　inches　of　clean　water　or　oil　being　the　only　barrier　these　terrible　pests　are　not　able　to　pass。

On　returning　home　to　Mamajam　（as　my　house　was　called）　I　had　a　slight　return　of　intermittent　fever；　which　kept　me　some　days　indoors。　As　soon　as　I　was　well；　I　again　went　to　Goa；　accompanied　by　Mr。　Mesman；　to　beg　the　Rajah's　assistance　in　getting　a　small　house　built　for　me　near　the　forest。　We　found　him　at　a　cock…fight　in　a　shed　near　his　palace；　which　however；　he　immediately　left　to　receive　us；　and　walked　with　us　up　an　inclined　plane　of　boards　which　serves　for　stairs　to　his　house。　This　was　large；　well…built；　and　lofty；　with　bamboo　floor　and　glass　windows。　The　greater　part　of　it　seemed　to　be　one　large　hall　divided　by　the　supporting　posts。　Near　a　window　sat　the　Queen；　squatting　on　a　rough　wooden　arm…chair；　chewing　the　everlasting　sirih　and　betel…nut；　while　a　brass　spittoon　by　her　side　and　a　sirih…box　in　front　were　ready　to　administer　to　her　wants。　The　Rajah　seated　himself　opposite　to　her　in　a　similar　chair；　and　a　similar　spittoon　and　sirih…box　were　held　by　a　little　boy　squatting　at　his　side。　Two　other　chairs　were　brought　for　us。　Several　young　women；　some　the　Rajah's　daughters；　others　slaves；　were　standing　about；　a　few　were　working　at　frames　making　sarongs；　but　most　of　them　were　idle。

And　here　I　might　（if　I　followed　the　example　of　most　travellers）　launch　out　into　a　glowing　description　of　the　charms　of　these　damsels；　the　elegant　costumes　they　wore；　and　the　gold　and　silver　ornaments　with　which　they　were　adorned。　The　jacket　or　body　of　purple　gauze　would　figure　well　in　such　a　description；　allowing　the　heaving　bosom　to　be　seen　beneath　it；　while　〃sparkling　eyes；〃　and　〃jetty　tresses；〃　and　〃tiny　feet〃　might　be　thrown　in　profusely。　But；　alas！　regard　for　truth　will　not　permit　me　to　expatiate　too　admiringly　on　such　topics；　determined　as　I　am　to　give　as　far　as　I　can　a　true　picture　of　the　people　and　places　I　visit。　The　princesses　were；　it　is　true；　sufficiently　good…　looking；　yet　neither　their　persons　nor　their　garments　had　that　appearance　of　freshness　and　cleanliness　without　which　no　other　charms　can　be　contemplated　with　pleasure。　Everything　had　a　dingy　and　faded　appearance；　very　disagreeable　and　unroyal　to　a　European　eye。　The　only　thing　that　excited　some　degree　of　admiration　was　the　quiet　and　dignified　manner　of　the　Rajah　and　the　great　respect　always　paid　to　him。　None　can　stand　erect　in　his　presence；　and　when　he　sits　on　a　chair；　all　present　（Europeans　of　course　excepted）　squat　upon　the　ground。　The　highest　seat　is　literally；　with　these　people；　the　place　of　honour　and　the　sign　of　rank。　So　unbending　are　the　rules　in　this　respect；　that　when　an　English　carriage　which　the　Rajah　of　Lombock　bad　sent　for　arrived；　it　was　found　impossible　to　use　it　because　the　driver's　seat　was　the　highest；　and　it　had　to　be　kept　as　a　show　in　its　coach　house。　On　being　told　the　object　of　my　visit；　the　Rajah　at　once　said　that　he　would　order　a　house　to　be　emptied　for　me；　which　would　be　much　better　than　building　one；　as　that　would　take　a　good　deal　of　time。　Bad　coffee　and　sweetmeats　were　given　us　as　before。

Two　days　afterwards；　I　called　on　the　Rajah　to　ask　him　to　send　a　guide　with　me　to　show　me　the　house　I　was　to　occupy。　He　immediately　ordered　a　man　to　be　sent　for；　gave　him　instructions；　and　in　a　few　minutes　we　were　on　our　way。　My　conductor　could　speak　no　Malay；　so　we　walked　on　in　silence　for　an　hour；　when　we　turned　into　a　pretty　good　house　and　I　was　asked　to　sit　down。　The　head　man　of　the　district　lived　here；　and　in　about　half　an　hour　we　started　again；　and　another　hour's　walk　brought　us　to　the　village　where　I　was　to　be　lodged。　We　went　to　the　residence　of　the　village　chief；　who　conversed　with　my　conductor　for　some　time。

Getting　tired；　I　asked　to　be　shown　the　house　that　was　prepared　for　me；　but　the　only　reply　I　could　get　was；　〃Wait　a　little；〃　and　the　parties　went　on　talking　as　before。　So　I　told　them　I　could　not　wait；　as　I　wanted　to　see　the　house　and　then　to　go　shooting　in　the　forest。　This　seemed　to　puzzle　them；　and　at　length；　in　answer　to　questions；　very　poorly　explained　by　one　or　two　bystanders　who　knew　a　little　Malay；　it　came　out　that　no　house　was　ready；　and　no　one　seemed　to　have　the　least　idea　where　to　get　one。　As　I　did　not　want　to　trouble　the　Rajah　any　more；　I　thought　it　best　to　try　to　frighten　them　a　little；　so　I　told　them　that　if　they　did　not　immediately　find　me　a　house　as　the　Rajah　had　ordered；　I　should　go　back　and　complain　to　him；　but　that　if　a　house　was　found　me　I　would　pay　for　the　use　of　it。　This　had　the　desired　effect；　and　one　of　the　head　men　of　the　village　asked　me　to　go　with　him　and　look　for　a　house。　He　showed　me　one　or　two　of　the　most　miserable　and　ruinous　description；　which　I　at　once　rejected；　saying；　〃I　must　have　a　good　one；　and　near　to　the　forest。〃　The　next　he　showed　me　suited　very　well；　so　I　told　him　to　see　that　it　was　emptied　the　next　day；　for　that　the　day　after　I　should　come　and　occupy　it。

On　the　day　mentioned；　as　I　was　not　quite　ready　to　go；　I　sent　my　two　Macassar　boys　with　brooms　to　sweep　out　the　house　thoroughly。　They　returned　in　the　evening　and　told　me　that　when　they　got　there　the　house　was　inhabited；　and　not　a　single　article　removed。　However；　on　hearing　they　had　come　to　clean　and　take　possession；　the　occupants　made　a　move；　but　with　a　good　deal　of　grumbling；　which　made　me　feel　rather　uneasy　as　to　how　the　people　generally　might　take　my　intrusion　into　their　village。　The　next　morning　we　took　our　baggage　on　three　packhorses；　and；　after　a　few　break…　downs；　arrived　about　noon　at　our　destination。

After　getting　all　my　things　set　straight；　and　having　made　a　hasty　meal；　I　determined　if　possible　to　make　friends　with　the　people。　I　therefore　sent　for　the　owner　of　the　house　and　as　many　of　his　acquaintances　as　liked　to　come；　to　have　a　〃bitchara；〃　or　talk。　When　they　were　all　seated；　I　gave　them　a　little　tobacco　all　around；　and　having　my　boy　Baderoon　for　interpreter；　tried　to　explain　to　them　why　I　came　there；　that　I　was　very　sorry　to　turn　them　out　of　the　house；　but　that　the　Rajah　had　ordered　it　rather　than　build　a　new　one；　which　was　what　I　had　asked　for；　and　then　placed　five　silver　rupees　in　the　owner's　hand　as　one　month's　rent。　I　then　assured　them　that　my　being　there　would　be　a　benefit　to　them；　as　I　should　buy　their　eggs　and　fowls　and　fruit；　and　if　their　children　would　bring　me　shells　and　insects；　of　which　I　showed　them　specimens；　they　also　might　earn　a　good　many　coppers。　After　all　this　had　been　fully　explained　to　them；　with　a　long　talk　and　discussion　between　every　sentence；　I　could　see　that　I　had　made　a　favourable　impression；　and　that　very　afternoon；　as　if　to　test　my　promise　to　buy　even　miserable　little　snail…shells；　a　dozen　children　came　one　after　another；　bringing　me　a　few　specimens　each　of　a　small　Helix；　for　which　they　duly　received　〃coppers；〃　and　went　away　amazed　but　rejoicing。

A　few　days'　exploration　made　me　well　acquainted　with　the　surrounding　country。　I　was　a　long　way　from　the　road　in　the　forest　which　I　had　first　visited；　and　for　some　distance　around　my　house　were　old　clearings　and　cottages。　I　found　a　few　good　butterflies；　but　beetles　were　very　scarce；　and　even　rotten　timber　and　newly…　felled　trees　（generally　so　productive）　here　produced　scarcely　anything。　This　convinced　me　that　there　was　not　a　sufficient　extent　of　forest　in　the　neighbourhood　to　make　the　place　worth　staying　at　long；　but　it　was　too　late　now　to　think　of　going　further；　as　in　about　a　month　the　wet　season　would　begin；　so　I　resolved　to　stay　here　and　get　what　was　to　be　had。　Unfortunately；　after　a　few　days　I　became　ill　with　a　low　fever　which　produced　excessive　lassitude　and　disinclination　to　all　exertion。　In　vain　I　endeavoured　to　shake　it　off；　all　I　could　do　was　to　stroll　quietly　each　day　for　an　hour　about　the　gardens　near；　and　to　the　well；　where　some　good　insects　were　occasionally　to　be　found；　and　the　rest　of　the　day　to　wait　quietly　at　home；　and　receive　what　beetles　and　shells　my　little　corps　of　collectors　brought　me　daily。　I　imputed　my　illness　chiefly　to　the　water；　which　was　procured　from　shallow　wells；　around　which　there　was　almost　always　a　stagnant　puddle　in　which　the　buffaloes　wallowed。　Close　to　my　house　was　an　enclosed　mudhole　where　three　buffaloes　were　shut　up　every　night；　and　the　effluvia　from　which　freely　entered　through　the　open　bamboo　floor。　My　Malay　boy　Ali　was　affected　with　the　same　illness；　and　as　he　was　my　chief　bird…skinner　I　got　on　but　slowly　with　my　collections。

The　occupations　and　mode　of　life　of　the　villagers　differed　but　little　from　those　of　all　other　Malay　races。　The　time　of　the　women　was　almost　who