north america-2-第19章

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e。　　In　January　it　was　very　pretty；　but　in　summer　it　must　be　lovely。　　I　was　taken　up　to　the　cemetery　there　by　a　path　along　the　river；　and　am　inclined　to　say　that　it　is　the　sweetest　resting…place　for　the　dead　that　I　have　ever　visited。　　Daniel　Boone　lies　there。　　He　was　the　first　white　man　who　settled　in　Kentucky；　or　rather；　perhaps；　the　first　who　entered　Kentucky　with　a　view　to　a　white　man's　settlement。　　Such　frontier　men　as　was　Daniel　Boone　never　remained　long　contented　with　the　spots　they　opened。　　As　soon　as　he　had　left　his　mark　in　that　territory　he　went　again　farther　west；　over　the　big　rivers　into　Missouri；　and　there　he　died。　　But　the　men　of　Kentucky　are　proud　of　Daniel　Boone；　and　so　they　have　buried　him　in　the　loveliest　spot　they　could　select；　immediately　over　the　river。　Frankfort　is　worth　a　visit；　if　only　that　this　grave　and　graveyard　may　be　seen。　　The　legislature　of　the　State　was　not　sitting　when　I　was　there；　and　the　grass　was　growing　in　the　streets。　Louisville　is　the　commercial　city　of　the　State；　and　stands　on　the　Ohio。　　It　is　another　great　town；　like　all　the　others；　built　with　high　stores；　and　great　houses　and　stone…faced　blocks。　　I　have　no　doubt　that　all　the　building　speculations　have　been　failures；　and　that　the　men　engaged　in　them　were　all　ruined。　　But　there；　as　the　result　of　their　labor；　stands　a　fair　great　city　on　the　southern　banks　of　the　Ohio。　　Here　General　Buell　held　his　headquarters；　but　his　army　lay　at　a　distance。　　On　my　return　from　the　West　I　visited　one　of　the　camps　of　this　army；　and　will　speak　of　it　as　I　speak　of　my　backward　journey。　　I　had　already　at　this　time　begun　to　conceive　an　opinion　that　the　armies　in　Kentucky　and　in　Missouri　would　do　at　any　rate　as　much　for　the　Northern　cause　as　that　of　the　Potomac；　of　which　so　much　more　had　been　heard　in　England。　While　I　was　at　Louisville　the　Ohio　was　flooded。　　It　had　begun　to　rise　when　I　was　at　Cincinnati；　and　since　then　had　gone　on　increasing　hourly；　rising　inch　by　inch　up　into　the　towns　upon　its　bank。　　I　visited　two　suburbs　of　Louisville；　both　of　which　were　submerged；　as　to　the　streets　and　ground　floors　of　the　houses。　　At　Shipping　Port；　one　of　these　suburbs；　I　saw　the　women　and　children　clustering　in　the　up…stairs　room；　while　the　men　were　going　about　in　punts　and　wherries；　collecting　drift…wood　from　the　river　for　their　winter's　firing。　　In　some　places　bedding　and　furniture　had　been　brought　over　to　the　high　ground；　and　the　women　were　sitting；　guarding　their　little　property。　　That　village；　amid　the　waters；　was　a　sad　sight　to　see；　but　I　heard　no　complaints。　　There　was　no　tearing　of　hair　and　no　gnashing　of　teeth；　no　bitter　tears　or　moans　of　sorrow。　　The　men　who　were　not　at　work　in　the　boats　stood　loafing　about　in　clusters；　looking　at　the　still　rising　river；　but　each　seemed　to　be　personally　indifferent　to　the　matter。　　When　the　house　of　an　American　is　carried　down　the　river；　he　builds　himself　another；　as　he　would　get　himself　a　new　coat　when　his　old　coat　became　unserviceable。　　But　he　never　laments　or　moans　for　such　a　loss。　　Surely　there　is　no　other　people　so　passive　under　personal　misfortune！　Going　from　Louisville　up　to　St。　Louis；　I　crossed　the　Ohio　River　and　passed　through　parts　of　Indiana　and　of　Illinois；　and；　striking　the　Mississippi　opposite　St。　Louis；　crossed　that　river　also；　and　then　entered　the　State　of　Missouri。　　The　Ohio　was；　as　I　have　said；　flooded；　and　we　went　over　it　at　night。　　The　boat　had　been　moored　at　some　unaccustomed　place。　　There　was　no　light。　　The　road　was　deep　in　mud　up　to　the　axle…tree；　and　was　crowded　with　wagons　and　carts；　which　in　the　darkness　of　the　night　seemed　to　have　stuck　there。　　But　the　man　drove　his　four　horses　through　it　all；　and　into　the　ferry…　boat；　over　its　side。　　There　were　three　or　four　such　omnibuses；　and　as　many　wagons；　as　to　each　of　which　I　predicted　in　my　own　mind　some　fatal　catastrophe。　　But　they　were　all　driven　on　to　the　boat　in　the　dark；　the　horses　mixing　in　through　each　other　in　a　chaos　which　would　have　altogether　incapacitated　any　English　coachman。　　And　then　the　vessel　labored　across　the　flood；　going　sideways；　and　hardly　keeping　her　own　against　the　stream。　　But　we　did　get　over；　and　were　all　driven　out　again；　up　to　the　railway　station　in　safety。　　On　reaching　the　Mississippi　about　the　middle　of　the　next　day；　we　found　it　frozen　over；　or　rather　covered　from　side　to　side　with　blocks　of　ice　which　had　forced　their　way　down　the　river；　so　that　the　steam…ferry　could　not　reach　its　proper　landing。　　I　do　not　think　that　we　in　England　would　have　attempted　the　feat　of　carrying　over　horses　and　carriages　under　stress　of　such　circumstances。　　But　it　was　done　here。　　Huge　plankings　were　laid　down　over　the　ice；　and　omnibuses　and　wagons　were　driven　on。　　In　getting　out　again；　these　vehicles；　each　with　four　horses；　had　to　be　twisted　about；　and　driven　in　and　across　the　vessel；　and　turned　in　spaces　to　look　at　which　would　have　broken　the　heart　of　an　English　coachman。　　And　then　with　a　spring　they　were　driven　up　a　bank　as　steep　as　a　ladder！　　Ah　me！　under　what　mistaken　illusions　have　I　not　labored　all　the　days　of　my　youth；　in　supposing　that　no　man　could　drive　four　horses　well　but　an　English　stage　coachman！　　I　have　seen　performances　in　Americaand　in　Italy　and　France　also；　but　above　all　in　Americawhich　would　have　made　the　hair　of　any　English　professional　driver　stand　on　end。　And　in　this　way　I　entered　St。　Louis。

CHAPTER　V。　MISSOURI。

Missouri　is　a　slave　State；　lying　to　the　west　of　the　Mississippi　and　to　the　north　of　Arkansas。　　It　forms　a　portion　of　the　territory　ceded　by　France　to　the　United　States　in　1803。　　Indeed；　it　is　difficult　to　say　how　large　a　portion　of　the　continent　of　North　America　is　supposed　to　be　included　in　that　territory。　　It　contains　the　States　of　Louisiana；　Arkansas；　Missouri；　and　Kansas；　as　also　the　present　Indian　Territory；　but　it　also　is　said　to　have　contained　all　the　land　lying　back　from　them　to　the　Rocky　Mountains；　Utah；　Nebraska；　and　Dakota；　and　forms　no　doubt　the　widest　dominion　ever　ceded　by　one　nationality　to　another。　Missouri　lies　exactly　north　of　the　old　Missouri　compromise　line　that　is；　36。30　north。　　When　the　Missouri　compromise　was　made　it　was　arranged　that　Missouri　should　be　a　slave　State；　but　that　no　other　State　north　of　the　36。30　line　should　ever　become　slave　soil。　Kentucky　and　Virginia；　as　also　of　course　Maryland　and　Delaware；　four　of　the　old　slave　States；　were　already　north　of　that　line；　but　the　compromise　was　intended　to　prevent　the　advance　of　slavery　in　the　Northwest。　　The　compromise　has　been　since　annulled；　on　the　ground；　I　believe；　that　Congress　had　not　constitutionally　the　power　to　declare　that　any　soil　should　be　free；　or　that　any　should　be　slave　soil。　That　is　a　question　to　be　decided　by　the　States　themselves；　as　each　individual　State　may　please。　　So　the　compromise　was　repealed。　　But　slavery　has　not　on　that　account　advanced。　　The　battle　has　been　fought　in　Kansas；　and；　after　a　long　and　terrible　struggle；　Kansas　has　come　out　of　the　fight　as　a　free　State。　　Kansas　is　in　the　same　parallel　of　latitude　as　Virginia；　and　stretches　west　as　far　as　the　Rocky　Mountains；　When　the　census　of　the　population　of　Missouri　was　taken　in　1860；　the　slaves　amounted　to　ten　per　cent。　of　the　whole　number。　　In　the　Gulf　States　the　slave　population　is　about　forty…five　per　cent。　of　the　whole。　　In　the　three　border　States　of　Kentucky；　Virginia；　and　Maryland；　the　slaves　amount　to　thirty　per　cent。　of　the　whole　population。　　From　these　figures　it　will　be　seen　that　Missouri；　which　is　comparatively　a　new　slave　State；　has　not　gone　ahead　with　slavery　as　the　old　slave　States　have　done；　although　from　its　position　and　climate；　lying　as　far　south　as　Virginia；　it　might　seem　to　have　had　the　same　reasons　for　doing　so。　　I　think　there　is　every　reason　to　believe　that　slavery　will　die　out　in　Missouri。　　The　institution　is　not　popular　with　the　people　generally；　and　as　white　labor　becomes　abundantand　before　the　war　it　was　becoming　abundantmen　recognize　the　fact　that　the　white　man's　labor　is　the　more　profitable。　　The　heat　in　this　State；　in　midsummer；　is　very　great；　especially　in　the　valleys　of　the　rivers。　　At　St。　Louis；　on　the　Mississippi；　it　reaches　commonly　to　ninety　degrees；　and　very　frequently　goes　above　that。　The　nights；　moreover；　are　nearly　as　hot　as　the　days；　but　this　great　heat　does　not　last　for　any　very　long　period；　and　it　seems　that　white　men　are　able　to　work　throughout　the　year。　　If　correspondingly　severe　weather　in　winter　affords　any　compensation　to　the　white　man　for　what　of　heat　he　endures　during　the　summer；　I　can　testify　that　such　compensation　is　to　be　found　in　Missouri。　　When　I　was　there　we　were　afflicted　with　a　combination　of　snow；　sleet；　frost；　and　wind；　with　a　mixture　of　ice　and　mud；　that　makes　me　regard　Missouri　as　the　most　inclement　land　into　which　I　ever　penetrated。　St。　Louis；　on　the　Mississippi；　is　the　great　town　of　Missouri；　and　is　considered　by　the　Missourians　to　be　the　star　of　the　West。　　It　is　not　to　be　beaten　in　population；　wealth；　or　natural　advantages　by　any　other　city　so　far　west；　but　it　has　not　increased　with　such　rapidity　as　Chicago；　which　is　considerably　to　the　north　of　it；　on　Lake　Michigan。　　Of　the　great　Western　cities　I　regard　Chicago　as　the　most　remarkable；　seeing　that　St。　Louis　was　a　large　town　before　Chicago　had　been　founded。　The　population　of　St。　Louis　is　170；000。　　Of　this　number　only　2000　are　slaves。　　I　was　told　that　a　large　proportion　of　the　slaves　of　Missouri　are　employed　near　the　Missouri　River　in　breaking　hemp。　　The　growth　of　hemp　is　very　profitably　carried　on　in　that　valley；　and　the　labor　attached　to　it　is　one　which　white　men　do　not　like　to　encounter。　　Slaves　are　not　generally　employed　in　St。　Louis　for　domestic　service　as　is　done　almost　universally　in　the　towns　of　Kentucky。　　This　work　is　chiefly　in　the　hands　of　Irish　and　Germans。　Considerably　above　one…third　of　the　population　of　the　whole　city　is　made　up　of　these　two　nationalities。　　So　much　is　confessed；　but　if　I　were　to　form　an　opinion　from　the　language　I　heard　in　the　streets　of　the　town；　I　should　say　that　nearly　every　man　was　either　an　Irishman　or　a　German。　St。　Louis　has　none　of　the　aspects　of　a　slave　city。　　I　cannot　say　that　I　found　it　an　attractive　place；　but　then　I　did　not　visit　it　at　an　attractive　time。　　The　war　had　disturbed　everything；　given　a　special　color　of　its　own　to　men's　thoughts　and　words；　and　destroyed　all　interest　except　that　which　might　proceed　from　itself。　　The　town　is　well　built；　with　good　shops；　straight　streets；　never…ending　rows　of　excellent　houses；　and　every　sign　of　commercial　wealth　and　domestic　comfortof　commercial　wealth　and　domestic　comfort　in　the　past；　for　there　was　no　present　appearance　either　of　comfort　or　of　wealth。　　The　new　hotel　here　was　to　be　bigger　than　all　the　hotels　of　all　other　towns。　　It　is　built；　and　is　an　enormous　pile；　and　would　be　handsome　but　for　a　terribly　ambitious　Grecian　doorway。　　It　is　built；　as　far　as　the　walls　and　roof　are　concerned；　but　in　all　other　respects　is　unfinished。　　I　was　told　that　the　shares　of　the　original　stockholders　were　now　worth　nothing。　　A　shareholder；　who　so　told　me；　seemed　to　regard　this　as　the　ordinary　course　of　business。　The　great　glory　of　the　town　is　the　〃levee；〃　as　it　is　called；　or　the　long　river　beach　up　to　which　the　steamers　are　brought　with　their　bows　to　the　shore。　　It　is　an　esplanade　looking　on　to　the　river；　not　built　wi