north america-2-第35章

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t　which　we　encountered。　　As　we　began　to　ascend　from　the　level　of　the　outskirts　of　the　town　we　were　greeted　by　a　rising　flavor　in　the　air；　which　soon　grew　into　a　strong　odor；　and　at　last　developed　itself　into　a　stench　that　surpassed　in　offensiveness　anything　that　my　nose　had　ever　hitherto　suffered。　When　we　were　at　the　worst　we　hardly　knew　whether　to　descend　or　to　proceed。　　It　had　so　increased　in　virulence　that　at　one　time　I　felt　sure　that　it　arose　from　some　matter　buried　in　the　ground　beneath　my　feet。　　But　my　friend；　who　declared　himself　to　be　quite　at　home　in　Cincinnati　matters；　and　to　understand　the　details　of　the　great　Cincinnati　trade；　declared　against　this　opinion　of　mine。　　Hogs；　he　said；　were　at　the　bottom　of　it。　　It　was　the　odor　of　hogs　going　up　to　the　Ohio　heavensof　hogs　in　a　state　of　transit　from　hoggish　nature　to　clothes…brushes；　saddles；　sausages；　and　lard。　　He　spoke　with　an　authority　that　constrained　belief；　but　I　can　never　forgive　him　in　that　he　took　me　over　those　hills；　knowing　all　that　he　professed　to　know。　　Let　the　visitors　to　Cincinnati　keep　themselves　within　the　city；　and　not　wander　forth　among　the　mountains。　　It　is　well　that　the　odor　of　hogs　should　ascend　to　heaven　and　not　hang　heavy　over　the　streets；　but　it　is　not　well　to　intercept　that　odor　in　its　ascent。　My　friend　became　ill　with　fever；　and　had　to　betake　himself　to　the　care　of　nursing　friends；　so　that　I　parted　company　with　him　at　Cincinnati。　　I　did　not　tell　him　that　his　illness　was　deserved　as　well　as　natural；　but　such　was　my　feeling　on　the　matter。　　I　myself　happily　escaped　the　evil　consequences　which　his　imprudence　might　have　entailed　on　me。　I　again　passed　through　Pittsburg；　and　over　the　Alleghany　Mountains　by　Altoona；　and　down　to　Baltimoreback　into　civilization；　secession；　conversation；　and　gastronomy。　　I　never　had　secessionist　sympathies　and　never　expressed　them。　　I　always　believed　in　the　North　as　a　peoplediscrediting；　however；　to　the　utmost　the　existing　Northern　government；　or；　as　I　should　more　properly　say；　the　existing　Northern　cabinet；　but　nevertheless；　with　such　feelings　and　such　belief　I　found　myself　very　happy　at　Baltimore。　　Putting　aside　Bostonwhich　must；　I　think；　be　generally　preferred　by　Englishmen　to　any　other　city　in　the　StatesI　should　choose　Baltimore　as　my　residence　if　I　were　called　upon　to　live　in　America。　　I　am　not　led　to　this；　if　I　know　myself；　solely　by　the　canvas…back　ducks；　and　as　to　the　terrapins；　I　throw　them　to　the　winds。　　The　madeira；　which　is　still　kept　there　with　a　reverence　which　I　should　call　superstitious　were　it　not　that　its　free　circulation　among　outside　worshipers　prohibits　the　just　use　of　such　a　word；　may　have　something　to　do　with　it；　as　may　also　the　beauty　of　the　womento　some　small　extent。　Trifles　do　bear　upon　our　happiness　in　a　manner　that　we　do　not　ourselves　understand　and　of　which　we　are　unconscious。　　But　there　was　an　English　look　about　the　streets　and　houses　which　I　think　had　as　much　to　do　with　it　as　either　the　wine；　the　women；　or　the　ducks；　and　it　seemed　to　me　as　though　the　manners　of　the　people　of　Maryland　were　more　English　than　those　of　other　Americans。　　I　do　not　say　that　they　were　on　this　account　better。　　My　English　hat　is；　I　am　well　aware；　less　graceful；　and　I　believe　less　comfortable；　than　a　Turkish　fez　and　turban；　nevertheless　I　prefer　my　English　hat。　　New　York　I　regard　as　the　most　thoroughly　American　of　all　American　cities。　　It　is　by　no　means　the　one　in　which　I　should　find　myself　the　happiest；　but　I　do　not　on　that　account　condemn　it。　I　have　said　that　in　returning　to　Baltimore　I　found　myself　among　secessionists。　　In　so　saying　I　intend　to　speak　of　a　certain　set　whose　influence　depends　perhaps　more　on　their　wealth；　position；　and　education　than　on　their　numbers。　　I　do　not　think　that　the　population　of　the　city　was　then　in　favor　of　secession；　even　if　it　had　ever　been　so。　　I　believe　that　the　mob　of　Baltimore　is　probably　the　roughest　mob　in　the　Statesis　more　akin　to　a　Paris　mob；　and　I　may　perhaps　also　say　to　a　Manchester　mob；　than　that　of　any　other　American　city。　There　are　more　roughs　in　Baltimore　than　elsewhere；　and　the　roughs　there　are　rougher。　　In　those　early　days　of　secession；　when　the　troops　were　being　first　hurried　down　from　New　England　for　the　protection　of　Washington；　this　mob　was　vehemently　opposed　to　its　progress。　　Men　had　been　taught　to　think　that　the　rights　of　the　State　of　Maryland　were　being　invaded　by　the　passage　of　the　soldiers；　and　they　also　were　undoubtedly　imbued　with　a　strong　prepossession　for　the　Southern　cause。　　The　two　ideas　had　then　gone　together。　　But　the　mob　of　Baltimore　had　ceased　to　be　secessionists　within　twelve　months　of　their　first　exploit。　　In　April；　1861；　they　had　refused　to　allow　Massachusetts　soldiers　to　pass　through　the　town　on　their　way　to　Washington；　and　in　February；　1862；　they　were　nailing　Union　flags　on　the　door…posts　of　those　who　refused　to　display　such　banners　as　signs　of　triumph　at　the　Northern　victories！　That　Maryland　can　ever　go　with　the　South；　even　in　the　event　of　the　South　succeeding　in　secession；　no　Marylander　can　believe。　　It　is　not　pretended　that　there　is　any　struggle　now　going　on　with　such　an　object。　　No　such　result　has　been　expected；　certainly　since　the　possession　of　Washington　was　secured　to　the　North　by　the　army　of　the　Potomac。　　By　few；　I　believe；　was　such　a　result　expected　even　when　Washington　was　insecure。　　And　yet　the　feeling　for　secession　among　a　certain　class　in　Baltimore　is　as　strong　now　as　ever　it　was。　　And　it　is　equally　strong　in　certain　districts　of　the　Statein　those　districts　which　are　most　akin　to　Virginia　in　their　habits；　modes　of　thought；　and　ties　of　friendship。　　These　men；　and　these　women　also；　pray　for　the　South　if　they　be　pious；　give　their　money　to　the　South　if　they　be　generous；　work　for　the　South　if　they　be　industrious；　fight　for　the　South　if　they　be　young；　and　talk　for　the　South　morning；　noon；　and　night；　in　spite　of　General　Dix　and　his　columbiads　on　Federal　Hill。　　It　is　in　vain　to　say　that　such　men　and　women　have　no　strong　feeling　on　the　matter；　and　that　they　are　praying；　working；　fighting；　and　talking　under　dictation。　　Their　hearts　are　in　it。　　And　judging　from　them；　even　though　there　were　no　other　evidence　from　which　to　judge；　I　have　no　doubt　that　a　similar　feeling　is　strong　through　all　the　seceding　States。　　On　this　subject　the　North；　I　think；　deceives　itself　in　supposing　that　the　Southern　rebellion　has　been　carried　on　without　any　strong　feeling　on　the　part　of　the　Southern　people。　　Whether　the　mob　of　Charleston　be　like　the　mob　of　Baltimore　I　cannot　tell；　but　I　have　no　doubt　as　to　the　gentry　of　Charleston　and　the　gentry　of　Baltimore　being　in　accord　on　the　subject。　In　what　way；　then；　when　the　question　has　been　settled　by　the　force　of　arms；　will　these　classes　find　themselves　obliged　to　act？　　In　Virginia　and　Maryland　they　comprise；　as　a　rule；　the　highest　and　best　educated　of　the　people。　　As　to　parts　of　Kentucky　the　same　thing　may　be　said；　and　probably　as　to　the　whole　of　Tennessee。　　It　must　be　remembered　that　this　is　not　as　though　certain　aristocratic　families　in　a　few　English　counties　should　find　themselves　divided　off　from　the　politics　and　national　aspirations　of　their　country…men；　as　was　the　case　long　since　with　reference　to　the　Roman　Catholic　adherents　of　the　Stuarts；　and　as　has　been　the　case　since　then　in　a　lesser　degree　with　the　firmest　of　the　old　Tories　who　had　allowed　themselves　to　be　deceived　by　Sir　Robert　Peel。　　In　each　of　these　cases　the　minority　of　dissentients　was　so　small　that　the　nation　suffered　nothing；　though　individuals　were　all　but　robbed　of　their　nationality。　　but　as　regards　America　it　must　be　remembered　that　each　State　has　in　itself　a　governing　power；　and　is　in　fact　a　separate　people。　　Each　has　its　own　legislature；　and　must　have　its　own　line　of　politics。　The　secessionists　of　Maryland　and　of　Virginia　may　consent　to　live　in　obscurity；　but　if　this　be　so；　who　is　to　rule　in　those　States？　　From　whence　are　to　come　the　senators　and　the　members　of　Congress；　the　governors　and　attorney…generals？　　From　whence　is　to　come　the　national　spirit　of　the　two　States；　and　the　salt　that　shall　preserve　their　political　life？　　I　have　never　believed　that　these　States　would　succeed　in　secession。　　I　have　always　felt　that　they　would　be　held　within　the　Union；　whatever　might　be　their　own　wishes。　　But　I　think　that　they　will　be　so　held　in　a　manner　and　after　a　fashion　that　will　render　any　political　vitality　almost　impossible　till　a　new　generation　shall　have　sprung　up。　　In　the　mean　time　life　goes　on　pleasantly　enough　in　Baltimore；　and　ladies　meet　together；　knitting　stockings　and　sewing　shirts　for　the　Southern　soldiers；　while　the　gentlemen　talk　Southern　politics　and　drink　the　health　of　the　（Southern）　president　in　ambiguous　terms；　as　our　Cavaliers　used　to　drink　the　health　of　the　king。　During　my　second　visit　to　Baltimore　I　went　over　to　Washington　for　a　day　or　two；　and　found　the　capital　still　under　the　empire　of　King　Mud。　　How　the　elite　of　a　nationfor　the　inhabitants　of　Washington　consider　themselves　to　be　the　elitecan　consent　to　live　in　such　a　state　of　thraldom；　a　foreigner　cannot　understand。　　Were　I　to　say　that　it　was　intended　to　be　typical　of　the　condition　of　the　government；　I　might　be　considered　cynical；　but　undoubtedly　the　sloughs　of　despond　which　were　deepest　in　their　despondency　were　to　be　found　in　localities　which　gave　an　appearance　of　truth　to　such　a　surmise。　　The　Secretary　of　State's　office；　in　which　Mr。　Seward　was　still　reigning；　though　with　diminished　glory；　was　divided　from　the　headquarters　of　the　commander…in…chief；　which　are　immediately　opposite　to　it；　by　an　opaque　river　which　admitted　of　no　transit。　These　buildings　stand　at　the　corner　of　President　Square；　and　it　had　been　long　understood　that　any　close　intercourse　between　them　had　not　been　considered　desirable　by　the　occupants　of　the　military　side　of　the　causeway。　　But　the　Secretary　of　State's　office　was　altogether　unapproachable　without　a　long　circuit　and　begrimed　legs。　　The　Secretary　of　War's　department　was；　if　possible；　in　a　worse　condition。　　This　is　situated　on　the　other　side　of　the　President's　house；　and　the　mud　lay；　if　possible；　thicker　in　this　quarter　than　it　did　round　Mr。　Seward's　chambers。　　The　passage　over　Pennsylvania　Avenue；　immediately　in　front　of　the　War　Office；　was　a　thing　not　to　be　attempted　in　those　days。　　Mr。　Cameron；　it　is　true；　had　gone；　and　Mr。　Stanton　was　installed；　but　the　labor　of　cleansing　the　interior　of　that　establishment　had　hitherto　allowed　no　time　for　a　glance　at　the　exterior　dirt；　and　Mr。　Stanton　should；　perhaps；　be　held　as　excused。　　That　the　Navy　Office　should　be　buried　in　mud；　and　quite　debarred　from　approach；　was　to　be　expected。　　The　space　immediately　in　front　of　Mr。　Lincoln's　own　residence　was　still　kept　fairly　clean；　and　I　am　happy　to　be　able　to　give　testimony　to　this　effect。　　Long　may　it　remain　so。　　I　could　not；　however；　but　think　that　an　energetic　and　careful　President　would　have　seen　to　the　removal　of　the　dirt　from　his　own　immediate　neighborhood。　　It　was　something　that　his　own　shoes　should　remain　unpolluted；　but　the　foul　mud　always　clinging　to　the　boots　and　leggings　of　those　by　whom　he　was　daily　surrounded　must；　I　should　think；　have　been　offensive　to　him。　　The　entrance　to　the　Treasury　was　difficult　to　achieve　by　those　who　had　not　learned　by　practice　the　ways　of　the　place；　but　I　must　co