north america-2-第61章

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　Whence　are　to　come　the　sleepers　in　those　two　hundred　bed…rooms；　and　who　is　to　pay　for　the　gaudy　sofas　and　numerous　lounging　chairs　of　the　ladies'　parlors？　　In　all　other　countries　the　expectation　would　extend　itself　simply　to　travelersto　travelers　or　to　strangers　sojourning　in　the　land。　　But　this　is　by　no　means　the　case　as　to　these　speculations　in　America。　　When　the　new　hotel　rises　up　in　the　wilderness；　it　is　presumed　that　people　will　come　there　with　the　express　object　of　inhabiting　it。　　The　hotel　itself　will　create　a　population；　as　the　railways　do。　　With　us　railways　run　to　the　towns；　but　in　the　States　the　towns　run　to　the　railways。　　It　is　the　same　thing　with　the　hotels。　Housekeeping　is　not　popular　with　young　married　people　in　America；　and　there　are　various　reasons　why　this　should　be　so。　　Men　there　are　not　fixed　in　their　employment　as　they　are　with　us。　　If　a　young　Benedict　cannot　get　along　as　a　lawyer　at　Salem；　perhaps　he　may　thrive　as　a　shoemaker　at　Thermopylae。　　Jefferson　B。　Johnson　fails　in　the　lumber　line　at　Eleutheria；　but　hearing　of　an　opening　for　a　Baptist　preacher　at　Big　Mud　Creek　moves　himself　off　with　his　wife　and　three　children　at　a　week's　notice。　　Aminadab　Wiggs　takes　an　engagement　as　a　clerk　at　a　steamboat　office　on　the　Pongowonga　River；　but　he　goes　to　his　employment　with　an　inward　conviction　that　six　months　will　see　him　earning　his　bread　elsewhere。　　Under　such　circumstances　even　a　large　wardrobe　is　a　nuisance；　and　a　collection　of　furniture　would　be　as　appropriate　as　a　drove　of　elephants。　　Then　again　young　men　and　women　marry　without　any　means　already　collected　on　which　to　commence　their　life。　　They　are　content　to　look　forward　and　to　hope　that　such　means　will　come。　　In　so　doing　they　are　guilty　of　no　imprudence。　　It　is　the　way　of　the　country；　and；　if　the　man　be　useful　for　anything；　employment　will　certainly　come　to　him。　　But　he　must　live　on　the　fruits　of　that　employment；　and　can　only　pay　his　way　from　week　to　week　and　from　day　to　day。　　And　as　a　third　reason；　I　think　I　may　allege　that　the　mode　of　life　found　in　these　hotels　is　liked　by　the　people　who　frequent　them。　　It　is　to　their　taste。　　They　are　happy；　or　at　any　rate　contented；　at　these　hotels；　and　do　not　wish　for　household　cares。　　As　to　the　two　first　reasons　which　I　have　given；　I　can　agree　as　to　the　necessity　of　the　case；　and　quite　concur　as　to　the　expediency　of　marriage　under　such　circumstances。　　But　as　to　that　matter　of　taste；　I　cannot　concur　at　all。　　Anything　more　forlorn　than　a　young　married　woman　at　an　American　hotel；　it　is　impossible　to　conceive。　Such　are　the　guests　expected　for　those　two　hundred　bedrooms。　　The　chance　travelers　are　but　chance　additions　to　these；　and　are　not　generally　the　mainstay　of　the　house。　　As　a　matter　of　course　the　accommodation　for　travelers　which　these　hotels　afford　increases　and　creates　traveling。　　Men　come　because　they　know　they　will　be　fed　and　bedded　at　a　moderate　cost；　and　in　an　easy　way；　suited　to　their　tastes。　　With　us；　and　throughout　Europe；　inquiry　is　made　before　an　unaccustomed　journey　is　commenced；　on　that　serious　question　of　wayside　food　and　shelter。　　But　in　the　States　no　such　question　is　needed。　　A　big　hotel　is　a　matter　of　course；　and　therefore　men　travel。　　Everybody　travels　in　the　States。　　The　railways　and　the　hotels　between　them　have　so　churned　up　the　people　that　an　untraveled　man　or　woman　is　a　rare　animal。　　We　are　apt　to　suppose　that　travelers　make　roads；　and　that　guests　create　hotels；　but　the　cause　and　effect　run　exactly　in　the　other　way。　　I　am　almost　disposed　to　think　that　we　should　become　cannibals　if　gentlemen's　legs　and　ladies　arms　were　hung　up　for　sale　in　purveyors'　shops。　After　this　fashion　and　with　these　intentions　hotels　are　built。　　Size　and　an　imposing　exterior　are　the　first　requisitions。　　Everything　about　them　must　be　on　a　large　scale。　　A　commanding　exterior；　and　a　certain　interior　dignity　of　demeanor；　is　more　essential　than　comfort　or　civility。　　Whatever　a　hotel　may　be　it　must　not　be　〃mean。〃　　In　the　American　vernacular　the　word　mean　is　very　significant。　　A　mean　white　in　the　South　is　a　man　who　owns　no　slaves。　　Men　are　often　mean；　but　actions　are　seldom　so　called。　　A　man　feels　mean　when　the　bluster　is　taken　out　of　him。　　A　mean　hotel；　conducted　in　a　quiet　unostentatious　manner；　in　which　the　only　endeavor　made　had　reference　to　the　comfort　of　a　few　guests；　would　find　no　favor　in　the　States。　　These　hotels　are　not　called　by　the　name　of　any　sign；　as　with　us　in　our　provinces。　There　are　no　〃Presidents'　Heads〃　or　〃General　Scotts。〃　　Nor　by　the　name　of　the　landlord；　or　of　some　former　landlord；　as　with　us　in　London；　and　in　many　cities　of　the　Continent。　　Nor　are　they　called　from　some　country　or　city　which　may　have　been　presumed　at　some　time　to　have　had　special　patronage　for　the　establishment。　　In　the　nomenclature　of　American　hotels　the　specialty　of　American　hero　worship　is　shown；　as　in　the　nomenclature　of　their　children。　　Every　inn　is　a　house；　and　these　houses　are　generally　named　after　some　hero；　little　known　probably　in　the　world　at　large；　but　highly　estimated　in　that　locality　at　the　moment　of　the　christening。　They　are　always　built　on　a　plan　which　to　a　European　seems　to　be　most　unnecessarily　extravagant　in　space。　　It　is　not　unfrequently　the　case　that　the　greater　portion　of　the　ground　floor　is　occupied　by　rooms　and　halls　which　make　no　return　to　the　house　whatever。　　The　visitor　enters　a　great　hall　by　the　front　door；　and　almost　invariably　finds　it　full　of　men　who　are　idling　about；　sitting　round　on　stationary　seats；　talking　in　a　listless　manner；　and　getting　through　their　time　as　though　the　place　were　a　public　lounging…room。　　And　so　it　is。　　The　chances　are　that　not　half　the　crowd　are　guests　at　the　hotel。　　I　will　now　follow　the　visitor　as　he　makes　his　way　up　to　the　office。　　Every　hotel　has　an　office。　　To　call　this　place　the　bar；　as　I　have　done　too　frequently；　is　a　lamentable　error。　　The　bar　is　held　in　a　separate　room　appropriated　solely　to　drinking。　　To　the　office；　which　is　in　fact　a　long　open　bar；　the　guest　walks　up；　and　there　inscribes　his　name　in　a　book。　　This　inscription　was　to　me　a　moment　of　misery　which　I　could　never　go　through　with　equanimity。　　As　the　name　is　written；　and　as　the　request　for　accommodation　is　made；　half　a　dozen　loungers　look　over　your　name　and　listen　to　what　you　say。　　They　listen　attentively；　and　spell　your　name　carefully；　but　the　great　man　behind　the　bar　does　not　seem　to　listen　or　to　heed　you；　your　destiny　is　never　imparted　to　you　on　the　instant。　　If　your　wife　or　any　other　woman　be　with　youthe　word　〃lady〃　is　made　so　absolutely　distasteful　in　American　hotels　that　I　cannot　bring　myself　to　use　it　in　writing　of　themshe　has　been　carried　off　to　a　lady's　waiting　room；　and　there　remains　in　august　wretchedness　till　the　great　man　at　the　bar　shall　have　decided　on　her　fate。　　I　have　never　been　quite　able　to　fathom　the　mystery　of　these　delays。　　I　think　they　must　have　originated　in　the　necessity　of　waiting　to　see　what　might　be　the　influx　of　travelers　at　the　moment；　and　then　have　become　exaggerated　and　brought　to　their　present　normal　state　by　the　gratified　feeling　of　almost　divine　power　with　which　for　the　time　it　invests　that　despotic　arbiter。　　I　have　found　it　always　the　same；　though　arriving　with　no　crowd；　by　a　conveyance　of　my　own；　when　no　other　expectant　guests　were　following　me。　　The　great　man　has　listened　to　my　request　in　silence；　with　an　imperturbable　face；　and　has　usually　continued　his　conversation　with　some　loafing　friend；　who　at　the　time　is　probably　scrutinizing　my　name　in　the　book。　　I　have　often　suffered　in　patience；　but　patience　is　not　specially　the　badge　of　my　tribe；　and　I　have　sometimes　spoken　out　rather　freely。　　If　I　may　presume　to　give　advice　to　my　traveling　countrymen　how　to　act　under　such　circumstances；　I　should　recommend　to　them　freedom　of　speech　rather　than　patience。　　The　great　man；　when　freely　addressed；　generally　opens　his　eyes；　and　selects　the　key　of　your　room　without　further　delay。　　I　am　inclined　to　think　that　the　selection　will　not　be　made　in　any　way　to　your　detriment　by　reason　of　that　freedom　of　speech。　The　lady　in　the　ballad　who　spoke　out　her　own　mind　to　Lord　Bateman；　was　sent　to　her　home　honorably　in　a　coach　and　three。　　Had　she　held　her　tongue；　we　are　justified　in　presuming　that　she　would　have　been　returned　on　a　pillion　behind　a　servant。　I　have　been　greatly　annoyed　by　that　want　of　speech。　　I　have　repeatedly　asked　for　room；　and　received　no　syllable　in　return。　　I　have　persisted　in　my　request；　and　the　clerk　has　nodded　his　head　at　me。　　Until　a　traveler　is　known；　these　gentlemen　are　singularly　sparing　of　speech；　especially　in　the　West。　　The　same　economy　of　words　runs　down　from　the　great　man　at　the　office　all　through　the　servants　of　the　establishment。　　It　arises；　I　believe；　entirely　from　that　want　of　courtesy　which　democratic　institutions　create。　　The　man　whom　you　address　has　to　make　a　battle　against　the　state　of　subservience　presumed　to　be　indicated　by　his　position；　and　he　does　so　by　declaring　his　indifference　to　the　person　on　whose　wants　he　is　paid　to　attend。　　I　have　been　honored　on　one　or　two　occasions　by　the　subsequent　intimacy　of　these　great　men　at　the　hotel　offices；　and　have　then　found　them　ready　enough　at　conversation。　That　necessity　of　making　your　request　for　room　before　a　public　audience　is　not　in　itself　agreeable；　and　sometimes　entails　a　conversation　which　might　be　more　comfortably　made　in　private。　　〃What　do　you　mean　by　a　dressing…room；　and　why　do　you　want　one？〃　　Now　that　is　a　question　which　an　Englishman　feels　awkward　at　answering　before　five　and　twenty　Americans；　with　open　mouths　and　eager　eyes；　but　it　has　to　be　answered。　　When　I　left　England；　I　was　assured　that　I　should　not　find　any　need　for　a　separate　sitting…room；　seeing　that　drawing…rooms　more　or　less　sumptuous　were　prepared　for　the　accommodation　of　〃ladies。〃　　At　first　we　attempted　to　follow　the　advice　given　to　us；　but　we　broke　down。　　A　man　and　his　wife　traveling　from　town　to　town；　and　making　no　sojourn　on　his　way；　may　eat　and　sleep　at　a　hotel　without　a　private　parlor。　　But　an　English　woman　cannot　live　in　comfort　for　a　week；　or　even　in　comfort　for　a　day；　at　any　of　these　houses；　without　a　sitting…room　for　herself。　　The　ladies'　drawing…room　is　a　desolate　wilderness。　　The　American　women　themselves　do　not　use　it。　　It　is　generally　empty；　or　occupied　by　some　forlorn　spinster；　eliciting　harsh　sounds　from　the　wretched　piano　which　it　contains。　The　price　at　these　hotels　throughout　the　union　is　nearly　always　the　same；　viz。；　two　and　a　half　dollars　a　day；　for　which　a　bed…room　is　given　and　as　many　meals　as　the　guest　can　contrive　to　eat。　　This　is　the　price　for　chance　guests。　　The　cost　to　monthly　boarders　is；　I　believe；　not　more　than　the　half　of　this。　　Ten　shillings　a　day；　therefore；　covers　everything　that　is　absolutely　necessary；　servants　included；　and　this　must　be　said　in　praise　of　these　innsthat　the　traveler　can　compute　his　expenses　accurately；　and　can　absolutely　bring　them　within　that　daily　sum　of　ten　shillings。　　This　includes　a　great　deal　of　eating；　a　great　deal　of　attendance；　the　use　of　reading…room　and　smoking…roomwhich；　however；　always　seem　to　be　open　to　the　public　as　well　as　to　the　guestsand　a　bed…room；　with　accommodation　which　is　at　any　rate　as　good　as　the　average　accommodation　of　hotels　in　Europe。　　In　the　large　Eastern　towns　baths　are　attached　to　many　of　the　r