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Fréjus; Lescar; Belley; Saint…Malo; Tréguier; Embrun; Saint…Claude;  …

and; in the neighborhood; less than two hundred; one hundred; and

sometimes even less than fifty parishes; and; as recompense for this

slight ecclesiastical surveillance; a prelate receiving from 25;000 to

70;000 livres; according to official statements; from 37;000 to

105;000 livres in actual receipts; and from 74;000 to 210;000 livres

in the money of to day。  As to the abbeys; I count thirty…three of them

producing to the abbé from 25;000 to 120;000 livres; and twenty…seven

which bring from 20;000 to 100;000 livres to the abbess。  Weigh these

sums taken from the Almanach; and bear in mind that they must be

doubled; and more; to obtain the real revenue; and be quadrupled; and

more; to obtain the actual value。  It is evident; that; with such

revenues; coupled with the feudal rights; police; justiciary and

administrative; which accompany them; an ecclesiastic or lay grand

seignior is; in fact; a sort of prince in his district。  He bears too

close a resemblance to the ancient sovereign to be entitled to live as

an ordinary individual。  His private advantages impose on him a public

character。  His rank; and his enormous profits; makes it incumbent on

him to perform proportionate services; and that; even under the sway

of the intendant; he owes to his vassals; to his tenants; to his

feudatories the support of his mediation; of his patronage and of his

gains。



To do this he must be in residence; but; generally; he is an

absentee。  For a hundred and fifty years a kind of all…powerful

attraction diverts the grandees from the provinces and impels them

towards the capital。  The movement is irresistible; for it is the

effect of two forces; the greatest and most universal that influence

mankind; one; a social position; and the other the national character。

A tree is not to be severed from its roots with impunity。  Appointed to

govern; an aristocracy frees itself from the land when it no longer

rules。  It ceases to rule the moment when; through increasing and

constant encroachments; almost the entire justiciary; the entire

administration; the entire police; each detail of the local or general

government; the power of initiating; of collaboration; of control

regarding taxation; elections; roads; public works and charities;

passes over into the hands of the intendant or of the sub…delegate;

under the supreme direction of the comptroller…general or of the

king's council。'29' Civil servants; men 〃of the robe and the quill;〃

colorless commoners; perform the administrative work; there is no way

to prevent it。  Even with the king's delegates; a provincial governor;

were he hereditary; a prince of the blood; like the Condés in

Burgundy; must efface himself before the intendant; he holds no

effective office; his public duties consist of showing off and

providing entertainment。  Besides he would badly perform any others。

The administrative machine; with its thousands of hard; creaking and

dirty wheels; as Richelieu and Louis XIV; fashioned it; can work only

in the hands of workmen who may be dismissed at any time therefore

unscrupulous and prompt to give way to the judgment of the State。  It

is impossible to allow oneself to get mixed up with rogues of that

description。  He accordingly abstains; and abandons public affairs to

them。  Unemployed; bored; what could he now do on his domain; where he

no longer reigns; and where dullness overpowers him? He betakes

himself to the city; and especially to the court。  Moreover; only here

can he pursue a career; to be successful he has to become a courtier。

It is the will of the king; one must frequent his apartments to obtain

his favors; otherwise; on the first application for them the answer

will be; 〃Who is he? He is a man that I never see。〃 In the king's eyes

there is no excuse for absence; even should the cause is a conversion;

with penitence for a motive。  In preferring God to the king; he has

deserted。  The ministers write to the intendants to ascertain if the

gentlemen of their province 〃like to stay at home;〃 and if they

〃refuse to appear and perform their duties to the king。〃 Imagine the

grandeur of such attractions available at the court; governments;

commands; bishoprics; benefices; court…offices; survivor…ships;

pensions; credit; favors of every kind and degree for self and family。

All that a country of 25 millions men can offer that is desirable to

ambition; to vanity; to interest; is found here collected as in a

reservoir。  They rush to it and draw from it。  … And the more readily

because it is an agreeable place; arranged just as they would have it;

and purposely to suit the social aptitudes of the French character。

The court is a vast permanent drawing room to which 〃 access is easy

and free to the king's subjects;〃 where they live with him; 〃in gentle

and virtuous society in spite of the almost infinite distance of rank

and power;〃 where the monarch prides himself on being the perfect

master of a household。'30' In fact; no drawing room was ever so well

kept up; nor so well calculated to retain its guests by every kind of

enjoyment; by the beauty; the dignity and the charm of its decoration;

by the selection of its company and by the interest of the spectacle。

Versailles is the only place to show oneself off; to make a figure; to

push one's way; to be amused; to converse or gossip at the head…

quarters of news; of activity and of public matters; with the élite of

the kingdom and the arbiters of fashion; elegance and taste。  〃Sire;〃

said M。 de Vardes to Louis XIV; 〃away from Your Majesty one not only

feels miserable but ridiculous。〃 None remain in the provinces except

the poor rural nobility; to live there one must be behind the age;

disheartened or in exile。  The king's banishment of a seignior to his

estates is the highest disgrace; to the humiliation of this fall is

added the insupportable weight of boredom。  The finest chateau on the

most beautiful site is a frightful 〃desert〃; nobody is seen there save

the grotesques of a small town or the village peasants。'31'



〃Exile alone;〃 says Arthur Young; 〃can force the French nobility to

do what the English prefer to do; and that is to live on their estates

and embellish them。〃



 Saint…Simon and other court historians; on mentioning a ceremony;

repeatedly state that 〃all France was there〃; in fact; every one of

consequence in France is there; and each recognizes the other by this

sign。  Paris and the court become; accordingly; the necessary sojourn

of all fine people。  In such a situation departure begets departure;

the more a province is forsaken the more they forsake it。  〃There is

not in the kingdom;〃 says the Marquis de Mirabeau; 〃a single estate of

any size of which the proprietor is not in Paris and who;

consequently; neglects his buildings and chateaux。〃'32' The lay grand

seigniors have their hotels in the capital; their entresol at

Versailles; and their pleasure…house within a circuit of twenty

leagues; if they visit their estates at long intervals; it is to hunt。

The fifteen hundred commendatory abbés and priors enjoy their

benefices as if they were so many remote farms。  The two thousand seven

hundred vicars and canons visit each other and dine out。  With the

exception of a few apostolic characters the one hundred and thirty…one

bishops stay at home as little as they can; nearly all of them being

nobles; all of them men of society; what could they do out of the

world; confined to a provincial town? Can we imagine a grand seignior;

once a gay and gallant abbé and now a bishop with a hundred thousand

livres income; voluntarily burying himself for the entire year at

Mende; at Comminges; in a paltry cloister? The interval has become too

great between the refined; varied and literary life of the great

center; and the monotonous; inert; practical life of the provinces。

Hence it is that the grand seignior who withdraws from the former

cannot enter into the latter; and he remains an absentee; at least in

feeling。



A country in which the heart ceases to impel the blood through its

veins presents a somber aspect。  Arthur Young; who traveled over France

between 1787 and 1789; is surprised to find at once such a vital

center and such dead extremities。  Between Paris and Versailles the

double file of vehicles going and coming extends uninterruptedly for

five leagues from morning till night。'33' The contrast on other roads

is very great。  Leaving Paris by the Orleans road; says Arthur Young;

〃we met not one stage or diligence for ten miles; only two messageries

and very few chaises; not a tenth of what would have been met had we

been leaving London at the same hour。〃 On the highroad near Narbonne;

〃for thirty…six miles;〃 he says; 〃I came across but one cabriolet;

half a dozen carts and a few women leading asses。〃 Elsewhere; near St。

Girons; he notices that in two hundred and fifty miles he encountered

in all; 〃two cabriolets and three miserable things similar to our old

one…horse post chaise; and not one gentleman。〃 Throughout this country

the inns are execrable; it is impossible to hire a wagon; while in

England; even in a town of fifteen hundred or two thousand

inhabitants; there are comfortable hotels and every means of

transport。  This proves that in France 〃there is no circulation。〃 It is

only in very large towns that there is any civilization and comfort。

At Nantes there is a superb theater 〃twice as large as Drury…Lane and

five times as magnificent。  Mon Dieu! I cried to myself; do all these

wastes; moors; and deserts; that I have passed for 300 miles lead to

this spectacle? 。  。  。  In a single leap you pass from misery to

extravagance; 。。。the country deserted; or if a gentleman in it; you

find him in some wretched hole to save that money which is lavished

with profusion in the luxuries of a capital。〃 〃A coach;〃 says M。 de

Montlosier; 〃set out weekly from the principal towns in the provinces

for Paris and was not always full; which tells us about the activity

in business。  There was a single journal called the Gazette de France;

appearing twice a week; which represents the activity of minds。〃'34'

Some magistrates of Paris in exile at Bourges in 1753 and 1754 give

the following picture of that place:




 〃A town in which no one can be found with whom you can talk at

your ease on any topic whatever; reasonably or sensibly。  The nobles;

three…fourths of them dying of hunger; rotting with pride of birth;

keeping apart from men of the robe and of finance; and finding it

strange that the daughter of a tax…collector; married to a counselor

of the parliament of Paris; should presume to be intelligent and

entertain company。  The citizens are of the grossest ignorance; the

sole support of this species of lethargy in which the minds of most of

the inhabitants are plunged。  Women; bigoted and pretentious; an

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