letters from high latitudes-第1章

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Letters　From　High　Latitudes

by　The　Marquess　of　Dufferin　（Lord　Dufferin）







Being　some　account　of　a　voyage　in　1856　of　the　schooner　yacht　〃Foam〃　to　Iceland；　Jan　Meyen；　and　Spitzbergen。

By　the　Marquess　of　Dufferin　Sometime　Governor…General　of　the　Dominion　of　Canada　and　afterwards　Viceroy　of　India。




LETTER　I。

PROTESILAUS　STUMBLES　ON　THE　THRESHOLD


Glasgow；　Monday；　June　2；　1856。

Our　start　has　not　been　prosperous。　Yesterday　evening；　on　passing　Carlisle；　a　telegraphic　message　was　put　into　my　hand；　announcing　the　fact　of　the　〃Foam〃　having　been　obliged　to　put　into　Holyhead；　in　consequence　of　the　sudden　illness　of　my　Master。　As　the　success　of　our　expedition　entirely　depends　on　our　getting　off　before　the　season　is　further　advanced；　you　can　understand　how　disagreeable　it　is　to　have　received　this　check　at　its　very　outset。　As　yet；　of　course；　I　know　nothing　of　the　nature　of　the　illness　with　which　he　has　been　seized。　However；　I　have　ordered　the　schooner　to　proceed　at　once　to　Oban；　and　I　have　sent　back　the　Doctor　to　Holyhead　to　overhaul　the　sick　man。　It　is　rather　early　in　the　day　for　him　to　enter　upon　the　exercise　of　his　functions。


LETTER　II。

THE　ICELANDERA　MODERN　SIR　PATRICK　SPENS

Greenock；　Tuesday；　June　3；　1856

I　found　the　Icelander　awaiting　my　arrival　here；pacing　up　and　down　the　coffee…room　like　a　Polar　bear。

At　first　he　was　a　little　shy；　and；　not　having　yet　had　much　opportunity　of　practising　his　English；　it　was　some　time　before　I　could　set　him　perfectly　at　his　ease。　He　has　something　so　frank　and　honest　in　his　face　and　bearing；　that　I　am　certain　he　will　turn　out　a　pleasant　companion。　There　being　no　hatred　so　intense　as　that　which　you　feel　towards　a　disagreeable　shipmate；　this　assurance　has　relieved　me　of　a　great　anxiety；　and　I　already　feel　I　shall　hereafter　reckon　Sigurdr　（pronounced　Segurthur）；　the　son　of　Jonas；　among　the　number　of　my　best　friends。

As　most　educated　English　people　firmly　believe　the　Icelanders　to　be　a　〃Squawmuck；〃　blubber…eating；　seal…skin…clad　race；　I　think　it　right　to　tell　you　that　Sigurdr　is　apparelled　in　good　broadcloth；　and　all　the　inconveniences　of　civilization；　his　costume　culminating　in　the　orthodox　chimney…pot　of　the　nineteenth　century。　He　is　about　twenty…seven；　very　intelligent…looking；　andall　women　would　thinklovely　to　behold。　　A　high　forehead；　straight；　delicate　features；　dark　blue　eyes；　auburn　hair　and　beard；　and　the　complexion　ofLady　Sd！　His　early　life　was　passed　in　Iceland；　but　he　is　now　residing　at　Copenhagen　as　a　law　student。　Through　the　introduction　of　a　mutual　friend；　he　has　been　induced　to　come　with　me；　and　do　us　the　honours　of　his　native　land。

　　　〃O　whar　will　I　get　a　skeely　skipper；　　　　　To　sail　this　gude　ship　o'　mine？'

Such；　alas！　has　been　the　burden　of　my　song　for　these　last　four…and…twenty　hours；　as　I　have　sat　in　the　Tontine　Tower；　drinking　the　bad　port　wine；　for；　after　spending　a　fortune　in　telegraphic　messages　to　Holyhead；　it　has　been　decided　that　B　cannot　come　on；　and　I　have　been　forced　to　rig　up　a　Glasgow　merchant　skipper　into　a　jury　sailing…master。

Any　such　arrangement　is；　at　the　best；　unsatisfactory；　but　to　abandon　the　cruise　is　the　only　alternative。　However；　considering　I　had　but　a　few　hours　to　look　about　me；　I　have　been　more　fortunate　than　might　have　been　expected。　I　have　had　the　luck　to　stumble　on　a　young　fellow；　very　highly　recommended　by　the　Captain　of　the　Port。　He　returned　just　a　fortnight　ago　from　a　trip　to　Australia；　and　having　since　married　a　wife；　is　naturally　anxious　not　to　lose　this　opportunity　of　going　to　sea　again　for　a　few　months。

I　start　to…morrow　for　Oban；　via　Inverary；　which　I　wish　to　show　to　my　Icelander。　At　Oban　I　join　the　schooner；　and　proceed　to　Stornaway；　in　the　Hebrides；　whither　the　undomestic　Mr。　Ebenezer　Wyse　（a　descendant；　probably；　of　some　Westland　Covenanter）　is　to　follow　me　by　the　steamer。


LETTER　III。

LOCH　GOILTHE　SAGA　OF　CLAN　CAMPBELL

Oban；　June　5；　1856

I　have　seldom　enjoyed　anything　so　much　as　our　journey　yesterday。　Getting　clear　at　last　of　the　smells；　smoke；　noise；　and　squalor　of　Greenock；　to　plunge　into　the　very　heart　of　the　Highland　hills；　robed　as　they　were　in　the　sunshine　of　a　beautiful　summer　day；　was　enough　to　make　one　beside　oneself　with　delight；　and　the　Icelander　enjoyed　it　as　much　as　I　did。　　Having　crossed　the　Clyde；　alive　with　innumerable　vessels；　its　waves　dancing　and　sparkling　in　the　sunlight；　we　suddenly　shot　into　the　still　and　solemn　Loch　Goil；　whose　waters；　dark　with　mountain　shadows；　seemed　almost　to　belong　to　a　different　element　from　that　of　the　yellow；　rushing；　ship…laden　river　we　had　left。　In　fact；　in　the　space　of　ten　minutes　we　had　got　into　another　world；　centuries　remote　from　the　steaming；　weaving；　delving　Britain；　south　of　Clyde。

After　a　sail　of　about　three　hours；　we　reached　the　head　of　the　loch；　and　then　took　coach　along　the　worst　mountain　road　in　Europe；　towards　the　country　of　the　world…invading　Campbells。　A　steady　pull　of　three　hours　more；　up　a　wild　bare　glen；　brought　us　to　the　top　of　the　mica…slate　ridge　which　pens　up　Loch　Fyne；　on　its　western　side；　and　disclosed　what　I　have　always　thought　the　loveliest　scene　in　Scotland。

Far　below　at　our　feet；　and　stretching　away　on　either　hand　among　the　mountains；　lay　the　blue　waters　of　the　lake。

On　its　other　side；　encompassed　by　a　level　belt　of　pasture…land　and　corn…fields；　the　white　little　town　of　Inverary　glittered　like　a　gem　on　the　sea…shore；　while　to　the　right；　amid　lawns　and　gardens；　and　gleaming　banks　of　wood；　that　hung　down　into　the　water；　rose　the　dark　towers　of　the　Castle；　the　whole　environed　by　an　amphitheatre　of　tumbled　porphyry　hills；　beyond　whose　fir…crowned　crags　rose　the　bare　blue　mountain…tops　of　Lorn。

It　was　a　perfect　picture　of　peace　and　seclusion；　and　I　confess　I　had　great　pride　in　being　able　to　show　my　companion　so　fair　a　specimen　of　one　of　our　lordly　island　homesthe　birthplace　of　a　race　of　nobles　whose　names　sparkle　down　the　page　of　their　country's　history　as　conspicuously　as　the　golden　letters　in　an　illuminated　missal。

While　descending　towards　the　strand；　I　tried　to　amuse　Sigurdr　with　a　sketch　of　the　fortunes　of　the　great　house　of　Argyll。

I　told　him　how　in　ancient　days　three　warriors　came　from　Green　Ierne；　to　dwell　in　the　wild　glens　of　Cowal　and　Lochow；how　one　of　them；　the　swart　Breachdan；　all　for　the　love　of　blue…eyed　Eila；　swam　the　Gulf；　once　with　a　clew　of　thread；　then　with　a　hempen　rope；　last　with　an　iron　chain；　but　this　time；　alas！　the　returning　tide　sucks　down　the　over…tasked　hero　into　its　swirling　vortex；how　Diarmid　O'　Duin；　i。e。　　son　of　〃the　Brown；〃　slew　with　his　own　hand　the　mighty　boar；　whose　head　still　scowls　over　the　escutcheon　of　the　Campbells；how　in　later　times；　while　the　murdered　Duncan's　son；　afterwards　the　great　Malcolm　Canmore；　was　yet　an　exile　at　the　court　of　his　Northumbrian　uncle；　ere　Birnam　wood　had　marched　to　Dunsinane；　the　first　Campbell　i。e。　　Campus…bellus；　Beau…champ；　a　Norman　knight　and　nephew　of　the　Conqueror；　having　won　the　hand　of　the　lady　Eva；　sole　heiress　of　the　race　of　Diarmid；　became　master　of　the　lands　and　lordships　of　Argyll；how　six　generations　latereach　of　them　notable　in　their　daythe　valiant　Sir　Colin　created　for　his　posterity　a　title　prouder　than　any　within　a　sovereign's　power　to　bestow；　which　no　forfeiture　could　attaint；　no　act　of　parliament　recall；　for　though　he　cease　to　be　Duke　or　Earl；　the　head　of　the　Clan　Campbell　will　still　remain　Mac　Calan　More；and　how　at　last　the　same　Sir　Colin　fell　at　the　String　of　Cowal；　beneath　the　sword　of　that　fierce　lord；　whose　granddaughter　was　destined　to　bind　the　honours　of　his　own　heirless　house　round　the　coronet　of　his　slain　foeman's　descendant；how　Sir　Neill　at　Bannockburn　fought　side　by　side　with　the　Bruce　whose　sister　he　had　married；　how　Colin；　the　first　Earl；　wooed　and　won　the　Lady　Isabel；　sprung　from　the　race　of　Somerled；　Lord　of　the　Isles；　thus　adding　the　galleys　of　Lorn　to　the　blazonry　of　Argyll；　how　the　next　Earl　died　at　Flodden；　and　his　successor　fought　not　less　disastrously　at　Pinkie；how　Archibald；　fifth　Earl；　whose　wife　was　at　supper　with　the　Queen；　her　half…sister；　when　Rizzio　was　murdered；　fell　on　the　field　of　Langside；　smitten　not　by　the　hand　of　the　enemy；　but　by　the　finger　of　God；　how　Colin；　Earl　and　boy…General　at　fifteen；　was　dragged　away　by　force；　with　tears　in　his　eyes；　from　the　unhappy　skirmish　at　Glenlivit；　where　his　brave　Highlanders　were　being　swept　down　by　the　artillery　of　Huntley　and　Errol；destined　to　regild　his　spurs　in　future　years　on　the　soil　of　Spain。

Then　I　told　him　of　the　Great　Rebellion；　and　how；　amid　the　tumult　of　the　next　fifty　years；　the　Grim　Marquis　Gillespie　Grumach；　as　his　squint　caused　him　to　be　called　Montrose's　fatal　foe；　staked　life　and　fortunes　in　the　deadly　game　engaged　in　by　the　fierce　spirits　of　that　generation；　and　losing；　paid　the　forfeit　with　his　head；　as　calmly　as　became　a　brave　and　noble　gentleman；　leaving　an　example；　which　his　sonalready　twice　rescued　from　the　scaffold；　once　by　a　daughter　of　the　ever…gallant　house　of　Lindsay；　again　a　prisoner；　and　a　rebel；　because　four　years　too　soon　to　be　a　patriotas　nobly　imitated；　how；　at　last；　the　clouds　of　misfortune　cleared　away；　and　honours　clustered　where　only　merit　had　been　before；　the　martyr's　aureole；　almost　become　hereditary；　being　replaced　in　the　next　generation　by　a　ducal　coronet；　itself　to　be　regilt　in　its　turn　with　a　less　sinister　lustre　by　him

　　　　〃The　State's　whole　thunder　born　to　wield；　　　　　　And　shake　alike　the　senate　and　the　field；〃

who　baffled　Walpole　in　the　cabinet；　and　conquered　with　Marlborough　at　Ramilies；　Oudenarde；　and　Malplaquet；　and；　last；how　at　that　present　moment；　even　while　we　were　speaking；　the　heir　to　all　these　noble　reminiscences；　the　young　chief　of　this　princely　line；　had　already　won；　at　the　age　of　twenty…nine；　by　the　manly　vigour　of　his　intellect　and　his　hereditary　independence　of　character；　the　confidence　of　his　fellow…countrymen；　and　a　seat　at　the　council　board　of　his　sovereign。

Having　thus　duly　indoctrinated　Sigurdr　with　the　Sagas　of　the　family；　as　soon　as　we　had　crossed　the　lake　I　took　him　up　to　the　Castle；　and　acted　cicerone　to　its　pictures　and　heirlooms；the　gleaming　stands　of　muskets；　whose　fire　wrought　such　fatal　ruin　at　Culloden；the　portrait　of　the　beautiful　Irish　girl；　twice　a　Duchess；　whom　the　cunning　artist　has　painted　with　a　sunflower　that　turns　FROM　the　sun　to　look　at　her；Gillespie　Grumach　himself；　as　grim　and　sinister…looking　as　in　life。the　trumpets　to　carry　the　voice　from　the　hall　door　to　Dunnaquaich；the　fair　beech　avenues；　planted　by　the　old　Marquis；　now　looking　with　their　smooth　grey　boles；　and　overhanging　branches；　like　the　cloisters　of　an　abbey　the　vale　of　Esechasan；　to　which；　on　the　evening　before　his　execution；　the　Earl　wrote　such　touching　verses；　the　quaint　old　kitchen…garden；　the　ruins　of　the　ancient　Castle；　where　worthy　Major　Dalgetty　is　said　to　have　passed　such　uncom…　fortable　moments；the　Celtic　cross　from　lone　Iona：all　and　everything　I　showed　off　with　as　much　pride　and　pleasure；　I　think；　as　if　they　had　been　my　own　possessions；　and　the　more　so　as　the　Icelander　himself　evidently　sympathised　with　such　Scald…like　gossip。

Having　thoroughly　overrun　the　woods　and　lawns　of　Inverary；　we　had　a　game　of　chess；　and　went　to　bed　pretty　well　tired。

The　next　morning；　before