letters from high latitudes-第15章
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er another day in the neighbourhood； but we have already spent more time upon the Geysirs than I had counted upon； and it will not do to remain in Iceland longer than the 15th； or Winter will have begun to barricade the passes into his Arctic dominions。 My plan； on returning to Reykjavik； is to send the schooner round to wait for us in a harbour on the north coast of the island； while we ourselves strike straight across the interior on horseback。
The scenery； I am told； is magnificent。 On the way we shall pass many a little nook； shut up among the hills； that has been consecrated by some touching old…world story； and the manner of life among the northern inhabitants is； I believe； more unchanged and characteristic than that of any other of the islanders。 Moreover； scarcely any stranger has ever penetrated to any distance in this direction； and we shall have an opportunity of traversing a slice of that tremendous desertpiled up for thirty thousand square miles in disordered pyramids of ice and lava over the centre of the country； and periodically devastated by deluges of molten stone and boiling mud； or overwhelmed with whirlwinds of intermingled snow and cinders；an unfinished corner of the universe； where the elements of chaos are still allowed to rage with unbridled fury。
Our last stage from Thingvalla back to Reykjavik was got over very quickly； and seemed an infinitely shorter distance than when we first performed it。 We met a number of farmers returning to their homes from a kind of fair that is annually held in the little metropolis； and as I watched the long caravan…like line of pack…horses and horsemen； wearily plodding over the stony waste in single file； I found it less difficult to believe that these remote islanders should be descended from Oriental forefathers。 In fact； one is constantly reminded of the East in Iceland。 From the earliest ages the Icelanders have been a people dwelling in tents。 In the time of the ancient Parliament； the legislators； during the entire session； lay encamped in movable booths around the place of meeting。 Their domestic polity is naturally patriarchal； and the flight of their ancestors from Norway was a protest against the antagonistic principle of feudalism。 No Arab could be prouder of his courser than they are of their little ponies； or reverence more deeply the sacred rights of hospitality； while the solemn salutation exchanged between two companies of travellers； passing each other in the DESERTas they invariably call the uninhabited part of the countrywould not have misbecome the stately courtesy of the most ancient worshippers of the sun。
Anything more multifarious than the landing of these caravans we met returning to the inland districtscannot well be conceived； deal boards； rope； kegs of brandy； sacks of rye or wheaten flour； salt； soap； sugar； snuff； tobacco； coffee； everything； in fact； which was necessary to their domestic consumption during the ensuing winter。 In exchange for these commodities； which of course they are obliged to get from Europe； the Icelanders export raw wool； knitted stockings； mittens； cured cod； and fish oil； whale blubber； fox skins； eider…down； feathers； and Icelandic moss。 During the last few years the exports of the island have amounted to about 1；200；000 lbs。 of wool and 500；000 pairs of stockings and mittens。 Although Iceland is one…fifth larger than Ireland； its population consists of only about 60；000 persons； scattered along the habitable ring which runs round between the central desert and the sea； of the whole area of 38；000 square miles it is calculated that not more than one…eighth part is occupied； the remaining 33；000 square miles consisting of naked mountains of ice； or valleys desolated by lava or volcanic ashes。 Even Reykjavik itself cannot boast of more than 700 or 800 inhabitants。
During winter time the men are chiefly employed in tending cattle； picking wool； manufacturing ropes； bridles； saddles； and building boats。 The fishing season commences in spring； in 1853 there were as many as 3；500 boats engaged upon the water。 As summer advancesturf…cutting and hay…making begins； while the autumn months are principally devoted to the repairing of their houses； manuring the grass lands； and killing and curing of sheep for exportation； as well as for their own use during the winter。 The woman…kind of a family occupy themselves throughout the year in washing； carding； and spinning wool； in knitting gloves and stockings； and in weaving frieze and flannel for their own wear。
The ordinary food of a well…to…do Icelandic family consists of dried fish； butter； sour whey kept till fermentation takes place； curds； and skiera very peculiar cheese unlike any I ever tasted；a little mutton； and rye bread。 As might be expected； this meagre fare is not very conducive to health； scurvy； leprosy； elephantiasis； and all cutaneous disorders； are very common； while the practice of mothers to leave off nursing their children at the end of three days； feeding them with cows' milk instead； results in a frightful mortality among the babies。
Land is held either in fee…simple； or let by the Crown to tenants on what may almost be considered perpetual leases。 The rent is calculated partly on the number of acres occupied； partly on the head of cattle the farm is fit to support； and is paid in kind； either in fish or farm produce。 Tenants in easy circumstances generally employ two or three labourers； whoin addition to their board and lodgingreceive from ten to twelve dollars a year of wages。 No property can be entailed； and if any one dies intestate； what he leaves is distributed among his childrenin equal shares to the sons； in half shares to the daughters。
The public revenue arising from Crown lands； commercial charges； and a small tax on the transference of property； amounts to about 3；000 pounds； the expenditure for education； officers' salaries （the Governor has about 400 pounds a year）； ecclesiastical establishments； etc。； exceeds 6；000 pounds a year； so that the island is certainly not a self…supporting institution。
The clergy are paid by tithes； their stipends are exceedingly small； generally not averaging more than six or seven pounds sterling per annum； their chief dependence being upon their farms。 Like St。 Dunstan； they are invariably excellent blacksmiths。
As we approached Reykjavik； for the first time during the whole journey we began to have some little trouble with the relay of ponies in front。 Whether it was that they were tired； or that they had arrived in a district where they had been accustomed to roam at large； I cannot tell； but every ten minutes； during the last six or seven miles； one or other of them kept starting aside into the rocky plain； across which the narrow bridle…road was carried； and cost us many a weary chase before we could drive them into the track again。 At last； though not till I had been violently hugged； kissed； and nearly pulled off my horse by an enthusiastic and rather tipsy farmer； who mistook me for the Prince； we galloped； about five o'clock； triumphantly into the town； without an accident having occurred to man or horse during the whole course of the expeditionalways excepting one tremendous fall sustained by Wilson。 It was on the evening of the day we left the Geysirs。 We were all galloping in single file down the lava pathway； when suddenly I heard a cry behind me； and then the noise as of a descending avalanche。 On turning round； behold！ both Wilson and his pony lay stretched upon the ground； the first some yards in advance of the other。 The poor fellow evidently thought he was killed； for he neither spoke nor stirred； but lay looking up at me； with blank； beady eyes as I approached to his assistance。 On further investigation； neither of the sufferers proved to be a bit the worse。
The cook； and the rest of the party； did not arrive till about midnight； but I make no doubt that when that able and spirited individual did at length reascend the side of the schooner； his cheek must have burned with pride at the reflection； that during the short period of his absence on shore he had added to his other accomplishments that of becoming a most finished cavalier。 I do not mean by that to imply that he was at all DONE。 Although we had enjoyed our trip so much； I was not sorry to find myself on board。 The descent again； after our gipsy life； into the coquettish little cabin； with its books and dear home faces； quite penetrated me with that feeling of snug content of which I believe Englishmen alone are susceptible。
I have now to relate to you a most painful occurrence which has taken place during my absence at the Geysirs； no less a catastrophe； in fact； than a mutiny among my hitherto most exemplary ship's company。 I suppose they； too； had occasion to bear witness to the proverbial hospitality of Iceland； salt junk； and the innocuous cates which generally compose ship…board rations； could never have produced such an emergency。 Suffice it to say； that 〃Dyspepsia and her fatal train〃 having taken hold of them； in a desperate hour they determined on a desperate deed；and rushing aft in a body； demanded of my faithful steward； not only access to the penetralia of the absent Doctor's cupboard； but that he himself should administer to them whatever medicaments he could come by。 In vain Mr。 Grant threw himself across the cabin…door。 Remonstrance was useless； my horny…handed lambs were inexorableunless he acceded to their demands； they threatened to report him when I returned！ The Doctor's sanctuary was thrown open； and all its sweetsif such they may be calledwere rifled。 A huge box of pills； the first that came to handthey happened to be calomelwas served out； share and share alike； with concomitant vials of wrath； of rhubarb and senna； and it was not until the last drop of castor oil had been carefully licked up that the marauders suffered their unwilling accomplice to retire to the fastnesses of his pantry。
An avenging Nemesis； however； hovered over the violated shrine of Esculapius。 By the time I returned the exigencies of justice had been more than satisfied； and the outrage already atoned for。 The rebellious HANDS were become most penitent STOMACHS； and fresh from the Oriental associations suggested by our last day's ride； I involuntarily dismissed the disconsolate culprits； with the Asiatic form of condonation： 〃Mashallah； you have made your faces white！ Go in peace！〃
During our expedition to the interior； the harbour of Reykjavik had become populous with new arrivals。 First of all； there was my old friend； the 〃Reine Hortense；〃 the Emperor's yacht； a magnificent screw corvette of 1；100 tons。 I had last parted with her three years ago in the Baltic； after she had towed me for eighty miles on our way from Bomarsund to Stockholm。 Then there were two English screw steamers； of about 700 tons each； taken up by the French Government as tenders to the yacht； not to mention a Spanish brig； and one or two other foreigners； which； together with the frigate； the barque； and the vessels we had found here on our first arrival； made the usually deserted bay look quite lively。 Until this year no steamers had ever cockneyfied its secluded waters。
This morning； directly after breakfast； I went on board the 〃Reine Hort
