letters from high latitudes-第2章

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The　next　morning；　before　breakfast；　I　went　off　in　a　boat　to　Ardkinglass　to　see　my　little　cousins；　and　then　returning　about　twelve；　we　got　a　post…chaise；　and　crossing　the　boastful　Loch　Awe　in　a　ferry…boat；　reached　Oban　at　nightfall。　Here　I　had　the　satisfaction　of　finding　the　schooner　already　arrived；　and　of　being　joined　by　the　Doctor；　just　returned　from　his　fruitless　expedition　to　Holyhead。


LETTER　IV。

THROUGH　THE　SOUNDSSTORNAWAYTHE　SETTING　UP　OF　THE　FIGURE…HEADFITZ'S　FORAYOH　WEEL　MAY　THE　BOATIE　ROW；　THAT　WINS　THE　BAIRNS'S　BREADSIR　PATRICK　SPENS　JOINSUP　ANCHOR。

Stornaway；　Island　of　Lewis；　Hebrides；　June　9；　1856。

We　reached　these　Islands　of　the　West　the　day　before　yesterday；　after　a　fine　run　from　Oban。

I　had　intended　taking　Staffa　and　Iona　on　my　way；　but　it　came　on　so　thick　with　heavy　weather　from　the　south…west；　that　to　have　landed　on　either　island　would　have　been　out　of　the　question。　So　we　bore　up　under　Mull　at　one　in　the　morning；　tore　through　the　Sound　at　daylight；　rounded　Ardnamurchan　under　a　double…reefed　mainsail　at　two　P。M。；　and　shot　into　the　Sound　of　Skye　the　same　evening；　leaving　the　hills　of　Moidart　（one　of　whose　〃seven　naen〃　was　an　ancestor　of　your　own）；　and　the　jaws　of　the　hospitable　Loch　Hourn；　reddening　in　the　stormy　sunset。

At　Kylakin　we　were　obliged　to　bring　up　for　the　night；　but　getting　under　weigh　again　at　daylight；　we　took　a　fair　wind　with　us　along　the　east　coast　of　Skye；　passed　Raasa　and　Rona；　and　so　across　the　Minch　to　Stornaway。

Stornaway　is　a　little　fishing…town　with　a　beautiful　harbour；　from　out　of　which　was　sailing；　as　we　entered；　a　fleet　of　herring…boats；　their　brown　sails　gleaming　like　gold　against　the　dark　angry　water　as　they　fluttered　out　to　sea；　unmindful　of　the　leaden　clouds　banked　up　along　the　west；　and　all　the　symptoms　of　an　approaching　gale。　The　next　morning　it　was　upon　us；　but　brought　up　as　we　were　under　the　lea　of　a　high　rock；　the　tempest　tore　harmlessly　over　our　heads；　and　left　us　at　liberty　to　make　the　final　preparations　for　departure。

Fitz；　whose　talents　for　discerning　where　the　vegetables；　fowls；　and　pretty　ladies　of　a　place　were　to　be　found；　I　had　already　had　occasion　to　admire；　went　ashore　to　forage；　while　I　remained　on　board　to　superintend　the　fixing　of　our　sacred　figure…headexecuted　in　bronze　by　Marochetti　and　brought　along　with　me　by　rail；　still　warm　from　the　furnace。

For　the　performance　of　this　solemnity　I　luckily　possessed　a　functionary　equal　to　the　occasion；　in　the　shape　of　the　second　cook。　Originally　a　guardsman；　he　had　beaten　his　sword　into　a　chisel；　and　become　carpenter；　subsequently　conceiving　a　passion　for　the　sea；　he　turned　his　attention　to　the　mysteries　of　the　kitchen；　and　now　sails　with　me　in　the　alternate　exercise　of　his　two　last　professions。　This　individual；　thus　happily　combining　the　chivalry　inherent　in　the　profession　of　arms　with　the　skill　of　the　craftsman　and　the　refinement　of　the　artistto　whose　person；　moreover；　a　paper　cap；　white　vestments；　and　the　sacrificial　knife　at　his　girdle；　gave　something　of　a　sacerdotal　characterI　did　not　consider　unfit　to　raise　the　ship's　guardian　image　to　its　appointed　place；　and　after　two　hours'　reverential　handiwork；　I　had　the　satisfaction　of　seeing　the　well…known　lovely　face；　with　its　golden　hair；　and　smile　that　might　charm　all　malice　from　the　elements；　beaming　like　a　happy　omen　above　our　bows。

Shortly　afterwards　Fitz　came　alongside；　after　a　most　successful　foray　among　the　fish…wives。　He　was　sitting　in　the　stern…sheets；　up　to　his　knees　in　vegetables；　with　seven　elderly　hens　beside　him；　and　a　dissipated…looking　cock　under　his　arm；　with　regard　to　whose　qualifications　its　late　proprietor　had　volunteered　the　most　satisfactory　assurances。　　I　am　also　bound　to　mention；　that　protruding　from　his　coat…pocket　were　certain　sheets　of　music；　with　the　name　of　〃Alice　Louisa；〃　written　therein　in　a　remarkably　pretty　hand；　which　led　me　to　believe　that　the　Doctor　had　not　entirely　confined　his　energies　to　the　acquisition　of　hens　and　vegetables。　　The　rest　of　the　day　was　spent　in　packing　away　our　newly…purchased　stores；　and　making　the　ship　as　tidy　as　circumstances　would　admit。　I　am　afraid；　however；　many　a　smart　yachtsman　would　have　been　scandalized　at　our　decks；　lumbered　up　with　hen…coops；　sacks　of　coal；　and　other　necessaries；　which；　like　the　Queen　of　Spain's　legs；　not　only　ought　never　to　be　seen；　but　must　not　be　supposed　even　to　exist；　on　board　a　tip…top　craft。

By　the　evening；　the　gale；　which　had　been　blowing　all　day；　had　increased　to　a　perfect　hurricane。　At　nine　o'clock　we　let　go　a　second　anchor；　and　I　confess；　as　we　sat　comfortably　round　the　fire　in　the　bright　cheerful　little　cabin；　and　listened　to　the　wind　whistling　and　shrieking　through　the　cordage；　that　none　of　us　were　sorry　to　find　ourselves　in　port　on　such　a　night；　instead　of　tossing　on　the　wild　Atlanticthough　we　little　knew　that　even　then　the　destroying　angel　was　busy　with　the　fleet　of　fishing…boats　which　had　put　to　sea　so　gallantly　on　the　evening　of　our　arrival。　By　morning　the　neck　of　the　gale　was　broken；　and　the　sun　shone　brightly　on　the　white　rollers　as　they　chased　each　other　to　the　shore；　but　a　Queen's　ship　was　steaming　into　the　bay；　with　sad　news　of　ruin　out　to　seaward；towing　behind　her；　boats；　water…logged；　or　bottom　upwards；while　a　silent　crowd　of　women　on　the　quay　were　waiting　to　learn　on　what　homes　among　them　the　bolt　had　fallen。

About　twelve　o'clock　the　Glasgow　packet　came　in；　and　a　few　minutes　afterwards　I　had　the　honour　of　receiving　on　my　quarter…deck　a　gentleman　who　seemed　a　cross　between　the　German　student　and　swell　commercial　gent。　On　his　head　he　wore　a　queer　kind　of　smoking…cap；　with　the　peak　cocked　over　his　left　ear；　then　came　a　green　shooting…jacket；　and　flashy　silk　tartan　waistcoat；　set　off　by　a　gold　chain；　hung　about　in　innumerable　festoons；while　light　trousers　and　knotty　Wellington　boots　completed　his　costume；　and　made　the　wearer　look　as　little　like　a　seaman　as　need　be。　It　appeared；　nevertheless；　that　the　individual　in　question　was　Mr。　Ebenezer　Wyse；　my　new　sailing…master；　so　I　accepted　Captain　C。's　strong　recommendation　as　a　set…off　against　the　silk　tartan；　explained　to　the　new　comer　the　position　he　was　to　occupy　on　board；　and　gave　orders　for　sailing　in　an　hour。　　The　multitudinous　chain；　moreover；　so　lavishly　displayed；　turned　out　to　be　an　ornament　of　which　Mr。　Wyse　might　well　be　proud；　and　the　following　history　of　its　acquisition　reconciled　me　more　than　anything　else　to　my　Master's　unnautical　appearance。

Some　time　ago　there　was　a　great　demand　in　Australia　for　small　river　steamers；　which　certain　Scotch　companies　undertook　to　supply。　The　difficulty；　however；　was　to　get　such　fragile　tea…kettles　across　the　ocean；　five　started　one　after　another　in　murderous　succession；　and　each　came　to　grief　before　it　got　half…way　to　the　equator；　the　sixth　alone　remained　with　which　to　try　a　last　experiment。　Should　she　arrive；　her　price　would　more　than　compensate　the　pecuniary　loss　already　sustained；　though　it　could　not　bring　to　life　the　hands　sacrificed　in　the　mad　speculation；　by　this　time；　however；　even　the　proverbial　recklessness　of　the　seamen　of　the　port　was　daunted；　and　the　hearts　of　two　crews　had　already　failed　them　at　the　last　moment　of　starting；　when　my　friend　of　the　chain　volunteered　to　take　the　command。　At　the　outset　of　his　voyage　everything　went　well；　a　fair　wind　（her　machinery　was　stowed　away；　and　she　sailed　under　canvas）　carried　the　little　craft　in　an　incredibly　short　time　a　thousand　miles　to　the　southward　of　the　Cape；　when　one　day；　as　she　was　running　before　the　gale；　the　man　at　the　wheelstartled　at　a　sea　which　he　thought　was　going　to　poop　herlet　go　the　helm；　the　vessel　broached　to；　and　tons　of　water　tumbled　in　on　the　top　of　the　deck。　As　soon　as　the　confusion　of　the　moment　had　subsided；　it　became　evident　that　the　shock　had　broken　some　of　the　iron　plates；　and　that　the　ship　was　in　a　fair　way　of　foundering。　So　frightened　were　the　crew；　that；　after　consultation　with　each　other；　they　determined　to　take　to　the　boats；　and　all　hands　came　aft；　to　know　whether　there　was　anything　the　skipper　would　wish　to　carry　off　with　him。　　Comprehending　the　madness　of　attempting　to　reach　land　in　open　boats　at　the　distance　of　a　thousand　miles　from　any　shore；　Wyse　pretended　to　go　into　the　cabin　to　get　his　compass；　chronometer；　etc。；　but　returning　immediately　with　a　revolver　in　each　hand；　swore　he　would　shoot　the　first　man　who　attempted　to　touch　the　boats。　This　timely　exhibition　of　spirit　saved　their　lives：　soon　after　the　weather　moderated；　by　undergirding　the　ship　with　chains；　St。　Paul　fashion；　the　leaks　were　partially　stopped；　the　steamer　reached　her　destination；　and　was　sold　for　7；000　pounds　a　few　days　after　her　arrival。　　In　token　of　their　gratitude　for　the　good　service　he　had　done　them；　the　Company　presented　Mr。　Wyse　on　his　return　with　a　gold　watch；　and　the　chain　he　wears　so　gloriously　outside　the　silk　tartan　waistcoat。

And　now；　good…bye。　I　hear　the　click…click　of　the　chain　as　they　heave　the　anchor；　I　am　rather　tired　and　exhausted　with　all　the　worry　of　the　last　two　months；　and　shall　be　heartily　glad　to　get　to　sea；　where　fresh　air　will　set　me　up　again；　I　hope；　in　a　few　days。　My　next　letter　will　be　from　Iceland；　and；　please　God；　before　I　see　English　land　again；　I　hope　to　have　many　a　story　to　tell　you　of　the　islands　that　are　washed　by　the　chill　waters　of　the　Arctic　Sea。


LETTER　V。

THE　NORTH　ATLANTICSPANISH　WAVESOUR　CABIN　IN　A　GALE　SEA…SICKNESS　FROM　A　SCIENTIFIC　POINT　OF　VIEWWILSONA　PASSENGER　COMMITS　SUICIDEFIRST　SIGHT　OF　ICELANDFLOKI　OF　THE　RAVENSTHE　NORSE　MAYFLOWERFAXA　FIORDWE　LAND　IN　THULE

Reykjavik；　Iceland；　June　21；　1856。

We　have　landed　in　Thule！　When；　in　parting；　you　moaned　so　at　the　thought　of　not　being　able　to　hear　of　our　safe　arrival；　I　knew　there　would　be　an　opportunity　of　writing　to　you　almost　immediately　after　reaching　Iceland；　but　I　said　nothing　about　it　at　the　time；　lest　something　should　delay　this　letter；　and　you　be　left　to　imagine　all　kinds　of　doleful　reasons　for　its　non…appearance。　We　anchored　in　Reykjavik　harbour　this　afternoon　（Saturday）。　H。M。S。　〃Coquette〃　sails　for　England　on　Monday；　so　that　within　a　week　you　will　get　this。

For　the　last　ten　days　we　have　been　leading　the　life　of　the　〃Flying　Dutchman。〃　Never　do　I　remember　to　have　had　such　a　dusting：　foul　winds；　gales；　and　calmsor　rather　breathing　spaces；　which　the　gale　took　occasionally　to　muster　up　fresh　energies　for　a　blowwith　a　heavy　head　sea；　that　prevented　our　sailing　even　when　we　got　aslant。　On　the　afternoon　of　the　day　we　quitted　Stornaway；　I　got　a　notion　how　it　was　going　to　be；　the　sun　went　angrily　down　behind　a　bank　of　solid　grey　cloud；　and　by　the　time　we　were　up　with　the　Butt　of　Lewis；　the　whole　sky　was　in　tatters；　and　the　mercury　nowhere；　with　a　heavy　swell　from　the　north…west。

As；　two　years　before；　I　had　spent　a　week　in　trying　to　beat　through　the　Roost　of　Sumburgh　under　double…reefed　trysails；　I　was　at　home　in　the　weather；　and　guessing　we　were　in　for　it；　sent　down　the　topmasts；　stowed　the　boats　on　board；　handed　the　foresail；　rove　the　ridge…ropes；　and　reefed　all　down。　By　midnight　it　blew　a　gale；　which　continued　without　intermission　until　the　day　we　sighted　Iceland；　sometimes　increasing　to　a　hurricane；　but　broken　now　and　then　by　sudden　lulls；　which　used　to　leave　us　for　a　couple　of　hours　at　a　tim