letters from high latitudes-第28章

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after；　a　message　from　Mr。　　T；　in　answer　to　a　card　I　had　sent　up　to　the　house　as　soon　as　the　household　gave　signs　of　being　astirinvited　us　to　breakfast；　and　about　half…past　nine　we　presented　ourselves　at　his　hospitable　door。　The　reception　I　met　with　was　exactly　what　the　gentlemen　who　had　given　me　the　letter　of　introduction　had　led　me　to　expect；　and　so　eager　did　Mr。　T　seem　to　make　us　comfortable；　that　I　did　not　dare　to　tell　him　how　we　had　been　prowling　about　his　house　the　greater　part　of　the　previous　night；　lest　he　should　knock　me　down　on　the　spot　for　not　having　knocked　him　up。　The　appearance　of　the　inside　of　the　house　quite　corresponded　with　what　we　had　anticipated　from　the　soigne　air　of　everything　about　its　exterior。　Books；　maps；　pictures；　a　number　of　astronomical　instruments；　geological　specimens；　and　a　magnificent　assortment　of　fishing…rods；　betrayed　the　habits　of　the　practical；　well…educated；　business…loving　English　gentlemen　who　inhabited　it；　and　as　he　showed　me　the　various　articles　of　interest　in　his　study；　most　heartily　did　I　congratulate　myself　on　the　lucky　chance　which　had　brought　me　into　contact　with　so　desirable　an　acquaintance。

All　this　time　we　had　seen　nothing　of　the　lady　of　the　house；　and　I　was　just　beginning　to　speculate　as　to　whether　that　crowning　ornament　could　be　wanting　to　this　pleasant　home；　when　the　door　at　the　further　end　of　the　room　suddenly　opened；　and　there　glided　out　into　the　sunshine〃The　White　Lady　of　Avenel。〃　A　fairer　apparition　I　have　seldom　seen；stately；　pale；　and　fragile　as　a　lilyblond　hair；　that　rippled　round　a　forehead　of　ivorya　cheek　of　waxen　purity　on　which　the　fitful　colour　went　and　camenot　with　the　flush　of　southern　blood；　or　flower…bloom　of　English　beauty；but　rather　with　a　cool　radiance；　as　of　〃northern　streamers〃　on　the　snows　of　her　native　hills；　eyes　of　a　dusky　blue；　and　lips　of　that　rare　tint　which　lines　the　conch…shell。　Such　was　the　Chatelaine　of　Kaafiord；as　perfect　a　type　of　Norse　beauty　as　ever　my　Saga　lore　had　conjured　up！　Frithiof's　Ingeborg　herself　seemed　to　stand　before　me。　A　few　minutes　afterwards；　two　little　fair…haired　maidens；　like　twin　snowdrops；　stole　into　the　room；　and　the　sweet　home　picture　was　complete。

The　rest　of　the　day　has　been　a　continued　fete。　In　vain　after　having　transacted　my　business；　I　pleaded　the　turning　of　the　tide；　and　our　anxiety　to　get　away　to　sea；　nothing　would　serve　our　kind　entertainer　but　that　we　should　stay　to　dinner；　and　his　was　one　of　those　strong　energetic　wills　it　is　difficult　to　resist。

In　the　afternoon；　the　Hammerfest　steamer　called　in　from　the　southward；　and　by　her　came　two　fair　sisters　of　our　hostess　from　their　father's　home　in　one　of　the　Loffodens　which　overlook　the　famous　Maelstrom。　The　stories　about　the　violence　of　the　whirlpool　Mr。　T　assures　me　are　ridiculously　exaggerated。　On　ordinary　occasions　the　site　of　the　supposed　vortex　is　perfectly　unruffled；　and　it　is　only　when　a　strong　weather　tide　is　running　that　any　unusual　movements　in　the　water　can　be　observed；　even　then　the　disturbance　does　not　amount　to　much　more　than　a　rather　troublesome　race。　〃Often　and　often；　when　she　was　a　girl；　had　his　wife　and　her　sisters　sailed　over　its　fabulous　crater　in　an　open　boat。〃　But　in　this　wild　romantic　country；　with　its　sparse　population；　rugged　mountains；　and　gloomy　fiords；　very　ordinary　matters　become　invested　with　a　character　of　awe　and　mystery　quite　foreign　to　the　atmosphere　of　our　own　matter…of…fact　world；　and　many　of　the　Norwegians　are　as　prone　to　superstition　as　the　poor　little　Lapp　pagans　who　dwell　among　them。

No　later　than　a　few　years　ago；　in　the　very　fiord　we　had　passed　on　our　way　to　Alten；　when　an　unfortunate　boat　got　cast　away　during　the　night　on　some　rocks　at　a　little　distance　from　the　shore；　the　inhabitants；　startled　by　the　cries　of　distress　which　reached　them　in　the　morning　twilight；　hurried　down　in　a　body　to　the　sea…side；not　to　afford　assistance；but　to　open　a　volley　of　musketry　on　the　drowning　mariners；　being　fully　persuaded　that　the　stranded　boat；　with　its　torn　sails；　was　no　other　than　the　Kracken　or　Great　Sea…Serpent　flapping　its　dusky　wings：　and　when；　at　last；　one　of　the　crew　succeeded　in　swimming　ashore　in　spite　of　waves　and　bullets；the　whole　society　turned　and　fled！

And　now；　again　good…bye。　We　are　just　going　up　to　dine　with　Mr。　T；　and　after　dinner；　or　at　least　as　soon　as　the　tide　turns；　we　get　under　wayNorthward　Ho！　（as　Mr。　Kingsley　would　say）　in　right　good　earnest　this　time！


LETTER　XI。

WE　SAIL　FOR　BEAR　ISLAND；　AND　SPITZBERGENCHERIE　ISLAND　BARENTZ…SIR　HUGH　WILLOUGHBYPARRY'S　ATTEMPT　TO　REACH　THE　NORTH　POLEAGAIN　AMONGST　THE　ICEICEBLINKFIRST　SIGHT　OF　SPITZBERGENWILSONDECAY　OF　OUR　HOPESCONSTANT　STRUGGLE　WITH　THE　ICEWE　REACH　THE　80　DEGREES　N。　LAT。A　FREER　SEAWE　LAND　IN　SPITZBERGENENGLISH　BAYLADY　EDITH'S　GLACIERA　MIDNIGHT　PHOTOGRAPHNO　REINDEER　TO　BE　SEENET　EGO　IN　ARCTISWINTER　IN　SPITZBERGEN　PTARMIGANTHE　BEAR…SAGATHE　〃FOAM〃　MONUMENT　SOUTHWARDSSIGHT　THE　GREENLAND　ICEA　GALEWILSON　ON　THE　MAELSTROMBREAKERS　AHEADROOSTTAKING　A　SIGHT　THRONDHJEM。

Throndhjem；　Aug。　22nd；　1856。

We　have　won　our　laurels；　after　all！　We　have　landed　in　Spitzbergenalmost　at　its　most　northern　extremity；　and　the　little　〃Foam〃　has　sailed　to　within　630　miles　of　the　Pole；　that　is　to　say；　within　100　miles　as　far　north　as　any　ship　has　ever　succeeded　in　getting。

I　think　my　last　letter　left　us　enjoying　the　pleasant　hospitalities　of　Kaafiord。

The　genial　quiet　of　that　last　evening　in　Norway　was　certainly　a　strange　preface　to　the　scenes　we　have　since　witnessed。　So　warm　was　it；　that　when　dinner　was　over；　we　all　went　out　into　the　garden；　and　had　tea　in　the　open　air；　the　ladies　without　either　bonnets　or　shawls；　merely　plucking　a　little　branch　of　willow　to　brush　away　the　mosquitoes；　and　so　the　evening　wore　away　in　alternate　intervals　of　chat　and　song。　At　midnight；　seawards　again　began　to　swirl　the　tide；　and　we　rose　to　go；not　without　having　first　paid　a　visit　to　the　room　where　the　little　daughters　of　the　house　lay　folded　in　sleep。　Then　descending　to　the　beach；　laden　with　flowers　and　kind　wishes　waved　to　us　by　white　handkerchiefs　held　in　still　whiter　hands；　we　rowed　on　board；　up　went　the　napping　sails；　and　dipping　her　ensign　in　token　of　adieuthe　schooner　glided　swiftly　on　between　the　walls　of　rock；　until　an　intervening　crag　shut　out　from　our　sight　the　friendly　group　that　had　come　forth　to　bid　us　〃Good　speed。〃　In　another　twenty…four　hours　we　had　threaded　our　way　back　through　the　intricate　fiords；　and　leaving　Hammerfest　three　or　four　miles　on　the　starboard　hand；　on　the　evening　of　the　28th　of　July；　we　passed　out　between　the　islands　of　Soroe　and　Bolsvoe　into　the　open　sea。

My　intention　was　to　go　first　to　Bear　Island；　and　ascertain　for　myself　in　what　direction　the　ice　was　lying　to　the　southward　of　Spitzbergen。

Bearor　Cherie　Island；　is　a　diamond…shaped　island；　about　ten　miles　long；　composed　of　secondary　rocksprincipally　sandstone　and　limestone…lying　about　280　miles　due　north　of　the　North　Cape。　It　was　originally　discovered　by　Barentz；　the　9th　of　June；　1596；　on　the　occasion　of　his　last　and　fatal　voyage。　Already　had　he　commanded　two　expeditions　sent　forth　by　the　United　Provinces　to　discover　a　north…east　passage　to　that　dream…landCathay；　and　each　time；　after　penetrating　to　the　eastward　of　Nova　Zembla；　he　had　been　foiled　by　the　impenetrable　line　of　ice。　On　this　occasion　he　adopted　the　bolder　and　more　northerly　courses　which　brought　him　to　Bear　Island。　Thence；　plunging　into　the　mists　of　the　frozen　sea；　he　ultimately　sighted　the　western　mountains　of　Spitzbergen。　Unable　to　proceed　further　in　that　direction；　Barentz　retraced　his　steps；　and　again　passing　in　sight　of　Bear　Island；　proceeded　in　a　south…east　direction　to　Nova　Zembla；　where　his　ships　got　entangled　in　the　ice；　and　he　subsequently　perished。

Towards　the　close　of　the　sixteenth　century；　in　spite　of　repeated　failures；　one　endeavour　after　another　was　made　to　penetrate　to　India　across　these　fatal　waters。

The　first　English　vessel　that　sailed　on　the　disastrous　quest　was　the　〃Bona　Esperanza。〃　in　the　last　year　of　King　Edward　VI。　Her　commander　was　Sir　Hugh　Willoughby；　and　we　have　still　extant　a　copy　of　the　instructions　drawn　up　by　Sebastian　Cabotthe　Grand　Pilot　of　England；　for　his　guidance。　Nothing　can　be　more　pious　than　the　spirit　in　which　this　ancient　document　is　conceived；　expressly　enjoining　that　morning　and　evening　prayers　should　be　offered　on　board　every　ship　attached　to　the　expedition；　and　that　neither　dicing；　carding；　tabling；　nor　other　devilish　deviceswere　to　be　permitted。　Here　and　there　were　clauses　of　a　more　questionable　morality；recommending　that　natives　of　strange　lands　be　〃enticed　on　board；　and　made　drunk　with　your　beer　and　wine；　for　then　you　shall　know　the　secrets　of　their　hearts。〃　The　whole　concluding　with　an　exhortation　to　all　on　board　to　take　especial　heed　to　the　devices　of　〃certain　creatures；　with　men's　heads；　and　the　tails　of　fishes；　who　swim　with　bows　and　arrows　about　the　fiords　and　bays；　and　live　on　human　flesh。〃

On　the　11th　of　May　the　ill…starred　expedition　got　under　way　from　Deptford；　and　saluting　the　king；　who　was　then　lying　sick　at　Greenwich；　put　to　sea。　By　the　30th　of　July　the　little　fleetthree　vessels　in　allhad　come　up　abreast　of　the　Loffoden　islands；　but　a　gale　coming　on；　the　〃Esperanza〃　was　separated　from　the　consorts。　Ward…huusa　little　harbour　to　the　east　of　the　North　Cape…had　been　appointed　as　the　place　of　rendezvous　in　case　of　such　an　event；　but　unfortunately；　Sir　Hugh　overshot　the　mark；　and　wasted　all　the　precious　autumn　time　in　blundering　amid　the　ice　to　the　eastward。　At　last；　winter　set　in；　and　they　were　obliged　to　run　for　a　port　in　Lapland。　Here；　removed　from　all　human　aid；　they　were　frozen　to　death。　A　year　afterwards；　the　ill…fated　ships　were　discovered　by　some　Russian　sailors；　and　an　unfinished　journal　proved　that　Sir　Hugh　and　many　of　his　companions　were　still　alive　in　January；　1554。

The　next　voyage　of　discovery　in　a　north…east　direction　was　sent　out　by　Sir　Francis　Cherie；　alderman　of　London；　in　1603。　After　proceeding　as　far　east　as　Ward…huus　and　Kela；　the　〃Godspeed〃　pushed　north　into　the　ocean；　and　on　the　16th　of　August　fell　in　with　Bear　Island。　Unaware　of　its　previous　discovery　by　Barentz；　Stephen　Bennetwho　commanded　the　expeditionchristened　the　island　Cherie　Island；　in　honour　of　his　patron；　and　to　this　day　the　two　names　are　used　almost　indiscriminately。

In　1607；　Henry　Hudson　was　despatched　by　the　Muscovy　Company；　with　orders　to　sail；　if　possible；　right　across　the　pole。　Although　perpetually　baffled　by　the　ice；　Hudson　at　last　succeeded　in　reaching　the　north…west　extremity　of　Spitzbergen；　but　finding　his　further　progress　arrested　by　an　impenetrable　barrier　of　fixed　ice；　he　was　forced　to　return。　　A　few　years　later；　Jonas　Poolehaving　been　sent　in　the　same　direction；　instead　of　prosecuting　any　discoveries；　wisely　set　himself　to　killing　the　sea…horses　that　frequent　the　Arctic　ice…fields；　and　in　lieu　of　tidings　of　new　landsbrought　back　a　valuable　cargo　of　walrus　tusks。　In　1615；　Fotherby　started　with　the　intention　of　renewing　the　attempt　to　sail　across　the　north　pole；　but　after　encountering　many　dangers　he　also　was　forced　to　return。　It　was　during　the　course　of　his　homeward　voyage　that　he　fell　in　with　the　island　of　Jan　Mayen。　Soon　afterwards；　the　discovery　by　Hudson　and　Davis；　of　the　seas　and　stra