letters from high latitudes-第31章
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lls in the centrerolls at last into the sea。 The length of the glacial river from the spot where it apparently first originated； could not have been less than thirty； or thirty…five miles； or its greatest breadth less than nine or ten； but so completely did it fill up the higher end of the valley； that it was as much as you could do to distinguish the further mountains peeping up above its surface。 The height of the precipice where it fell into the sea； I should judge to have been about 120 feet。
On the left a still more extraordinary sight presented itself。 A kind of baby glacier actually hung suspended half way on the hill side； like a tear in the act of rolling down the furrowed cheek of the mountain。
I have tried to convey to you a notion of the falling impetus impressed on the surface of the Jan Mayen ice rivers； but in this case so unaccountable did it seem that the over…hanging mass of ice should not continue to thunder down upon its course； that one's natural impulse was to shrink from crossing the path along which a breatha soundmight precipitate the suspended avalanche into the valley。 Though； perhaps； pretty exact in outline and general effect； the sketch I have made of this wonderful scene； will never convey to you a correct notion of the enormous scale of the distances； and size of its various features。 These glaciers are the principal characteristic of the scenery in Spitzbergen； the bottom of every valley in every part of the island； is occupied and generally completely filled by them； enabling one in some measure to realize the look of England during her glacial period； when Snowdon was still being slowly lifted towards the clouds； and every valley in Wales was brimful of ice。 But the glaciers in English Bay are by no means the largest in the island。 We ourselves got a viewthough a very distant oneof ice rivers which must have been more extensive； and Dr。 Scoresby mentions several which actually measured forty or fifty miles in length； and nine or ten in breadth； while the precipice formed by their fall into the sea； was sometimes upwards of 400 or 500 feet high。 Nothing is more dangerous than to approach these cliffs of ice。 Every now and then huge masses detach themselves from the face of the crystal steep； and topple over into the water； and woe be to the unfortunate ship which might happen to be passing below。 Scoresby himself actually witnessed a mass of ice； the size of a cathedral； thunder down into the sea from a height of 400 feet； frequently during our stay at Spitzbergen we ourselves observed specimens of these ice avalanches； and scarcely an hour passed without the solemn silence of the bay being disturbed by the thunderous boom resulting from similar catastrophes occurring in adjacent valleys。
As soon as we had thoroughly taken in the strange features of the scene around us； we all turned in for a night's rest。 I was dog tired； as much with anxiety as want of sleep； for in continuing to push on to the northward in spite of the ice； I naturally could not help feeling that if any accident occurred； the responsibility would rest with me； and although I do not believe that we were at any time in any real danger； yet from our inexperience in the peculiarities of arctic navigation； I think the coolest judgment would have been liable to occasional misgivings as to what might arise from possible contingencies。 Now； however； all was right； the result had justified our anticipations； we had reached the so longed…for goal； and as I stowed myself snugly away in the hollow of my cot； I could not help heartily congratulating myself thatfor that night at all events there was no danger of the ship knocking a hole in her bottom against some hummock which the lookout had been too sleepy to observe； and that Wilson could not come in the next morning and announce 〃ice all round； a…all ro…ound！〃 In a quarter of an hour afterwards； all was still on board the 〃Foam；〃 and the lonely little ship lay floating on the glassy bosom of the sea； apparently as inanimate as the landscape。
My feelings on awakening next morning were very pleasant； something like what one used to feel the first morning after one's return from school； on seeing pink curtains glistening round one's head； instead of the dirty…white boards of a turned…up bedstead。 When Wilson came in with my hot water； I could not help triumphantly remarking to him；〃Well； Wilson； you see we've got to Spitzbergen； after all！〃 But Wilson was not a man to be driven from his convictions by facts； he only smiled grimly； with a look which meant〃Would we were safe back again！〃 Poor Wilson！ he would have gone only half way with Bacon in his famous Apothegm； he would willingly 〃commit the Beginnings of all actions to Argus with his hundred eyes； and the Ends〃to Centipede； with his hundred legs。 〃First to watch； and then to speed〃away！ would have been his pithy emendation。
Immediately after breakfast we pulled to the shore； carrying in the gig with us the photographic apparatus； tents； guns； ammunition； and the goat。 Poor old thing！ she had suffered dreadfully from sea…sickness； and I thought a run ashore might do her good。 On the left…hand side of the bay； between the foot of the mountain and the sea； there ran a low flat belt of black moss； about half a mile broad； and as this appeared the only point in the neighbourhood likely to offer any attraction to reindeer； it was on this side that I determined to land。 My chief reason for having run into English Bay rather than Magdalena Bay was because we had been told at Hammerfest that it was the more likely place of the two for deer； and as we were sadly in want of fresh meat this advantage quite decided us in our choice。 As soon； therefore； as we had superintended the erection of the tent； and set Wilson hard at work cleaning the glasses for the photographs； we slung our rifles on our backs； and set off in search of deer。 But in vain did I peer through my telescope across the dingy flat in front； not a vestige of a horn was to be seen； although in several places we came upon impressions of their track。 At last our confidence in the reports of their great plenty became considerably diminished。 Still the walk was very refreshing after our confinement on board； and although the thermometer was below freezing； the cold only made the exercise more pleasant。 A little to the northward I observed； lying on the sea…shore； innumerable logs of driftwood。 This wood is floated all the way from America by the Gulf Stream； and as I walked from one huge bole to another； I could not help wondering in what primeval forest each had grown； what chance had originally cast them on the waters； and piloted them to this desert shore。 Mingled with this fringe of unhewn timber that lined the beach lay waifs and strays of a more sinister kind； pieces of broken spars； an oar； a boat's flagstaff； and a few shattered fragments of some long…lost vessel's planking。 Here and there； too； we would come upon skulls of walrus； ribs and shoulder…blades of bears； brought possibly by the ice in winter。 Turning again from the sea； we resumed our search for deer； but two or three hours' more very stiff walking produced no better luck。 Suddenly a cry from Fitz； who had wandered a little to the right； brought us helter…skelter to the spot where was standing。 But it was not a stag he had called us to come and look upon。 Half imbedded in the black moss at his feet； there lay a grey deal coffin falling almost to pieces with age； the lid was goneblown off probably by the windand within were stretched the bleaching bones of a human skeleton。 A rude cross at the head of the grave still stood partially upright； and a half obliterated Dutch inscription preserved a record of the dead man's name and age。
。。。。。VANDER SCHELLING。。。。 COMMAN。。。。JACOB MOOR。。。。 OB 2 JUNE 1758 AET 44。
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It was evidently some poor whaler of the last century to whom his companions had given the only burial possible in this frost…hardened earth； which even the summer sun has no force to penetrate beyond a couple of inches； and which will not afford to man the shallowest grave。 A bleak resting…place for that hundred years' slumber； I thought； as I gazed on the dead mariner's remains！
〃I was snowed over with snow； And beaten with rains； And drenched with the dews； Dead have I long been；〃
murmured the Vala to Odin in Nifelheim；and whispers of a similar import seemed to rise up from the lidless coffin before us。 It was no brother mortal that lay at our feet； softly folded in the embraces of 〃Mother Earth；〃 but a poor scarecrow； gibbeted for ages on this bare rock； like a dead Prometheus； the vulture； frost； gnawing for ever on his bleaching relics； and yet eternally preserving them！
On another part of the coast we found two other corpses yet more scantily sepulchred； without so much as a cross to mark their resting…place。 Even in the palmy days of the whale…fisheries； it was the practice of the Dutch and English sailors to leave the wooden coffins in which they had placed their comrades' remains； exposed upon the shore； and I have been told by an eye…witness； that in Magdalena Bay there are to be seen； even to this day； the bodies of men who died upwards of 250 years ago； in such complete preservation that； when you pour hot water on the icy coating which encases them； you can actually see the unchanged features of the dead； through the transparent incrustation。
As soon as Fitz had gathered a few of the little flowering mosses that grew inside the coffin； we proceeded on our way； leaving poor Jacob Moorlike his great namesakealone in his glory。
Turning to the right； we scrambled up the spur of one of the mountains on the eastern side of the plain； and thence dived down among the lateral valleys that run up between them。 Although by this means we opened up quite a new system of hills； and basins； and gullies； the general scenery did not change its characteristics。 All vegetationif the black moss deserves such a nameceases when you ascend twenty feet above the level of the sea； and the sides of the mountains become nothing but steep slopes of schist； split and crumbled into an even surface by the frost。 Every step we took unfolded a fresh succession of these jagged spikes and break…neck acclivities； in an unending variety of quaint configuration。 Mountain climbing has never been a hobby of mine； so I was not tempted to play the part of Excelsior on any of these hill sides； but for those who love such exercise a fairer or a more dangerous opportunity of distinguishing themselves could not be imagined。 The supercargo or owner of the very first Dutch ship that ever came to Spitzbergen； broke his neck in attempting to climb a hill in Prince Charles's Foreland。 Barentz very nearly lost several of his men under similar circumstances； and when Scoresby succeeded in making the ascent of another hill near Horn Sound； it was owing to his having taken the precaution of marking each upward step in chalk； that he was ever able to get down again。 The prospect from the summit； the approach to which was by a ridge so narrow that he sat astride upon its edge； seems amply to have repaid the exertion； and I do not think I can give you a better idea of the general effect
