letters from high latitudes-第8章

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in　a　condition　to　explore　the　island。　It　seemed　to　be　about　three…quarters　of　a　mile　long；　not　very　broad；　and　a　complete　rabbit…warren；　in　fact；　I　could　not　walk　a　dozen　yards　without　tripping　up　in　the　numerous　burrows　by　which　the　ground　was　honeycombed：　at　last；　on　turning　a　corner；　we　suddenly　came　on　a　dozen　rabbits；　gravely　sitting　at　the　mouths　of　their　holes。　They　were　quite　white；　without　ears；　and　with　scarlet　noses。　I　made　several　desperate　attempts　to　catch　some　of　these　singular　animals；　but　though　one　or　two　allowed　me　to　come　pretty　near；　just　as　I　thought　my　prize　was　secure；　in　some　unaccountable　mannerit　made　unto　itself　wings；　and　literally　flew　away！　Moreover；　if　my　eyesight　did　not　share　the　peculiar　development　which　affected　that　of　the　Doctor's；　I　should　say　that　these　rabbits　flew　in　PAIRS。　Red…nosed；　winged　rabbits！　I　had　never　heard　or　read　of　the　species；　and　I　naturally　grew　enthusiastic　in　the　chase；　hoping　to　bring　home　a　choice　specimen　to　astonish　our　English　naturalists。　With　some　difficulty　we　managed　to　catch　one　or　two；　which　had　run　into　their　holes　instead　of　flying　away。　　They　bit　and　scratched　like　tiger…cats；　and　screamed　like　parrots；　indeed；　on　a　nearer　inspection；　I　am　obliged　to　confess　that　they　assumed　the　appearance　of　birds；　＇Footnote：　The　Puffin　（Alca　arctica）。　In　Icelandic；　Soe　papagoie；　In　Scotland；　Priest；　and　in　Cornwall；　Pope。＇　which　may　perhaps　account　for　their　powers　of　flight。　A　slight　confusion　still　remains　in　my　mind　as　to　the　real　nature　of　the　creatures。

At　about　nine　o'clock　we　returned　to　breakfast；　and　the　rest　of　the　day　was　spent　in　taking　leave　of　our　friends；　and　organizing　the　baggage…train；　which　was　to　start　at　midnight；　under　the　command　of　the　cook。　The　cavalcade　consisted　of　eighteen　horses；　but　of　these　only　one…half　were　laden；　two　animals　being　told　off　to　each　burthen；　which　is　shifted　from　the　back　of　the　one　to　that　of　the　other　every　four　hours。　　The　pack…saddles　were　rude；　but　serviceable　articles；　with　hooks　on　either　side；　on　which　a　pair　of　oblong　little　chests　were　slung；　strips　of　turf　being　stuffed　beneath　to　prevent　the　creature's　back　being　galled。　Such　of　our　goods　as　could　not　be　conveniently　stowed　away　in　the　chests　were　fitted　on　to　the　top；　in　whatever　manner　their　size　and　weight　admitted；　each　pony　carrying　about　140　lbs。　The　photographic　apparatus　caused　us　the　greatest　trouble；　and　had　to　be　distributed　between　two　beasts。　As　was　to　be　expected；　the　guides　who　assisted　us　packed　the　nitrate　of　silver　bath　upside　down；　an　outrage　the　nature　of　which　you　cannot　appreciate。　　At　last　everything　was　pretty　well　arranged；guns；　powder；　shot；　tea…kettles；　rice；　tents；　beds；　portable　soups；　etc。　all　stowed　away；when　the　desponding　Wilson　came　to　me；　his　chin　sweeping　the　ground；　to　saythat　he　very　much　feared　the　cook　would　die　of　the　ride；that　he　had　never　been　on　horseback　in　his　life；that　as　an　experiment　he　had　hired　a　pony　that　very　morning　at　his　own　charges；had　been　run　away　with；　but　having　been　caught　and　brought　home　by　an　honest　Icelander；　was　now　lying　downthat　position　being　the　one　he　found　most　convenient。

As　the　first　day's　journey　was　two…and…thirty　miles；　and　would　probably　necessitate　his　being　twelve　or　thirteen　hours　in　the　saddle；　I　began　to　be　really　alarmed　for　my　poor　chef；　but　finding　on　inquiry　that　these　gloomy　prognostics　were　entirely　voluntary　on　the　part　of　Mr。　Wilson；　that　the　officer　in　question　was　full　of　zeal；　and　only　too　anxious　to　add　horsemanship　to　his　other　accomplishments；　I　did　not　interfere。　　As　for　Wilson　himself；　it　is　not　a　marvel　if　he　should　see　things　a　little　askew；　for　some　unaccountable　reason；　he　chose　to　sleep　last　night　in　the　open　air；　on　the　top　of　a　hen…　coop；　and　naturally　awoke　this　morning　with　a　crick　in　his　neck；　and　his　face　so　immovably　fixed　over　his　left　shoulder；　that　the　efforts　of　all　the　ship's　company　have　not　been　able　to　twist　it　back：　with　the　help　of　a　tackle；　however；　I　think　we　shall　eventually　brace　it　square　again。

At　two　we　went　to　lunch　with　the　Rector。　The　entertainment　bore　a　strong　family　likeness　to　our　last　night's　dinner；　but　as　I　wanted　afterwards　to　exhibit　my　magic　lantern　to　his　little　daughter　Raghnilder；　and　a　select　party　of　her　young　friends；　we　contrived　to　elude　doing　full　justice　to　it。　During　the　remainder　of　the　evening；　like　Job's　children；　we　went　about　feasting　from　house　to　house；　taking　leave　of　friends　who　could　not　have　been　kinder　had　they　known　us　all　our　lives；　and　interchanging　little　gifts　and　souvenirs。　With　the　Governor　I　have　left　a　print　from　the　Princess　Royal's　drawing　of　the　dead　soldier　in　the　Crimea。　　From　the　Rector　of　the　cathedral　church　I　have　received　some　very　curious　booksalmost　the　first　printed　in　the　island；　I　have　been　very　anxious　to　obtain　some　specimens　of　ancient　Icelandic　manuscripts；　but　the　island　has　long　since　been　ransacked　of　its　literary　treasures；　and　to　the　kindness　of　the　French　consul　I　am　indebted　for　a　charming　little　white　fox；　the　drollest　and　prettiest　little　beast　I　ever　saw。

Having　dined　on　board　the　〃Artemise；〃　we　adjourned　at　eleven　o'clock　to　the　beach　to　witness　the　departure　of　the　baggage。　The　ponies　were　all　drawn　up　in　one　long　file；　the　head　of　each　being　tied　to　the　tail　of　the　one　immediately　before　him。　Additional　articles　were　stowed　away　here　and　there　among　the　boxes。　The　last　instructions　were　given　by　Sigurdr　to　the　guides；　and　everything　was　declared　ready　for　a　start。　With　the　air　of　an　equestrian　star；　descending　into　the　arena　of　Astley's　Amphitheatre；　the　cook　then　stepped　forward；　made　me　a　superb　bow；　and　was　assisted　into　the　saddle。　My　little　cabin…boy　accompanied　him　as　aide…de…camp。

The　jovial　Wilson　rides　with　us　tomorrow。　Unless　we　get　his　head　round　during　the　night；　he　will　have　to　sit　facing　his　horse's　tail；　in　order　to　see　before　him。

We　do　not　seem　to　run　any　danger　of　falling　short　of　provisions；　as　by　all　accounts　there　are　birds　enough　in　the　interior　of　the　country　to　feed　an　Israelitish　emigration。


LETTER　VII。

KISSESWILSON　ON　HORSEBACKA　LAVA　PLATEAUTHINGVALLA　ALMANNAGIARABNAGIAOUR　TENTTHE　SHIVERED　PLAIN　WITCH…DROWNINGA　PARLIAMENTARY　DEBATE；　A。　D。　1000　THANGBRAND　THE　MISSIONARYA　GERMAN　GNAT…CATCHERTHE　MYSTICAL　MOUNTAINSSIR　OLAFHECKLASKAPTA　JOKULTHE　FIRE　DELUGE　OF　1783WE　REACH　THE　GEYSIRSTROKRFITZ'S　BONNE　FORTUNEMORE　KISSESAN　ERUPTIONPRINCE　NAPOLEON　RETURNTRADEPOPULATIONA　MUTINYTHE　REINE　HORTENSETHE　SEVEN　DUTCHMENA　BALLLOW　DRESSES　NORTHWARD　HO！

Reykjavik；　July　7；　1856。

At　last　I　have　seen　the　famous　Geysirs；　of　which　every　one　has　heard　so　much；　but　I　have　also　seen　Thingvalla；　of　which　no　one　has　heard　anything。　The　Geysirs　are　certainly　wonderful　marvels　of　nature；　but　more　wonderful；　more　marvellous　is　Thingvalla；　and　if　the　one　repay　you　for　crossing　the　Spanish　Sea；　it　would　be　worth　while　to　go　round　the　world　to　reach　the　other。

Of　the　boiling　fountains　I　think　I　can　give　you　a　good　idea；　but　whether　I　can　contrive　to　draw　for　you　anything　like　a　comprehensible　picture　of　the　shape　and　nature　of　the　Almannagja；　the　Hrafnagja；　and　the　lava　vale；　called　Thingvalla；　that　lies　between　them；　I　am　doubtful。　Before　coming　to　Iceland　I　had　read　every　account　that　had　been　written　of　Thingvalla　by　any　former　traveller；　and　when　I　saw　it；　it　appeared　to　me　a　place　of　which　I　had　never　heard；　so　I　suppose　I　shall　come　to　grief　in　as　melancholy　a　manner　as　my　predecessors；　whose　ineffectual　pages　whiten　the　entrance　to　the　valley　they　have　failed　to　describe。

Having　superintendedas　I　think　I　mentioned　to　you　in　my　last　letterthe　midnight　departure　of　the　cook；　guides；　and　luggage；　we　returned　on　board　for　a　good　night's　rest；　which　we　all　needed。　The　start　was　settled　for　the　next　morning　at　eleven　o'clock；　and　you　may　suppose　we　were　not　sorry　to　find；　on　waking；　the　bright　joyous　sunshine　pouring　down　through　the　cabin　skylight；　and　illuminating　the　white…robed；　well…furnished　breakfast…table　with　more　than　usual　splendour。　At　the　appointed　hour　we　rowed　ashore　to　where　our　eight　poniestwo　being　assigned　to　each　of　us；　to　be　ridden　alternatelywere　standing　ready　bridled　and　saddled；　at　the　house　of　one　of　our　kindest　friends。　Of　course；　though　but　just　risen　from　breakfast；　the　inevitable　invitation　to　eat　and　drink　awaited　us；　and　another　half…hour　was　spent　in　sipping　cups　of　coffee　poured　out　for　us　with　much　laughter　by　our　hostess　and　her　pretty　daughter。　At　last；　the　necessary　libations　accomplished；　we　rose　to　go。　Turning　round　to　Fitz；　I　whispered；　how　I　had　always　understood　it　was　the　proper　thing　in　Iceland　for　travellers　departing　on　a　journey　to　kiss　the　ladies　who　had　been　good　enough　to　entertain　them；little　imagining　he　would　take　me　at　my　word。　Guess　then　my　horror；　when　I　suddenly　saw　him；　with　an　intrepidity　I　envied　but　dared　not　imitate；　first　embrace　the　mamma；　by　way　of　prelude；　and　then　proceed；　in　the　most　natural　manner　possible；　to　make　the　same　tender　advances　to　the　daughter。　I　confess　I　remained　dumb　with　consternation；　the　room　swam　round　before　me；　I　expected　the　next　minute　we　should　be　packed　neck　and　crop　into　the　street；　and　that　the　young　lady　would　have　gone　off　into　hysterics。　It　turned　out；　however；　that　such　was　the　very　last　thing　she　was　thinking　of　doing。　With　a　simple　frankness　that　became　her　more　than　all　the　boarding…school　graces　in　the　world；　her　eyes　dancing　with　mischief　and　good　humour；　she　met　him　half　way；　and　pouting　out　two　rosy　lips；　gave　him　as　hearty　a　kiss　as　it　might　ever　be　the　good　fortune　of　one　of　us　he…creatures　to　receive。　From　that　moment　I　determined　to　conform　for　the　future　to　the　customs　of　the　inhabitants。

Fresh　from　favours　such　as　these；　it　was　not　surprising　we　should　start　in　the　highest　spirits。　With　a　courtesy　peculiar　to　Iceland；　Dr。　Hjaltelin；　the　most　jovial　of　doctors；and　another　gentleman；　insisted　on　conveying　us　the　first　dozen　miles　of　our　journey；　and　as　we　clattered　away　through　the　wooden　streets；　I　think　a　merrier　party　never　set　out　from　Reykjavik。　In　front　scampered　the　three　spare　ponies；　without　bridles；　saddles；　or　any　sense　of　moral　responsibility；　flinging　up　their　heels；　biting　and　neighing　like　mad　things；　then　came　Sigurdr；　now　become　our　chief；　surrounded　by　the　rest　of　the　cavalcade；　and　finally；　at　a　little　distance；　plunged　in　profound　melancholy；　rode　Wilson。　Never　shall　I　forget　his　appearance。　During　the　night　his　head　had　come　partially　straight；　but　by　way　of　precaution；　I　suppose；　he　had　conceived　the　idea　of　burying　it　down　to　the　chin　in　a　huge　seal…skin　helmet　I　had　given　him　against　the　inclemencies　of　the　Polar　Sea。　As　on　this　occasion　the　thermometer　was　at　81　degrees；　and　a　coup…de…soleil　was　the　chief　thing　to　be　feared；　a　ton　of　fur　round　his　skull　was　scarcely　necessary。　Seamen's　trousers；　a　bright　scarlet　jersey；　and　jack…boots　fringed　with　cat…skin；　completed　his　costume；　and　as　he　proceeded　along　in　his　usual　state　of　chronic　consternation；　with　my　rifle　slung　at　his　back　and　a　couple　of　telescopes　over　his　shoulder；　he　looked　the　image　of　Robinson　Crusoe；　fresh　from　having　seen　the　foot…print。

A　couple　of　hours'　ride　across　the　lava　plain　we　had　previously　traversed　brought　us　to　a　river；　where