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John Bull on the Guadalquivir 


by Anthony Trollope





I am an Englishman; living; as all Englishman should do; in England;
and my wife would not; I think; be well pleased were any one to
insinuate that she were other than an Englishwoman; but in the
circumstances of my marriage I became connected with the south of
Spain; and the narrative which I am to tell requires that I should
refer to some of those details。

The Pomfrets and Daguilars have long been in trade together in this
country; and one of the partners has usually resided at Seville for
the sake of the works which the firm there possesses。  My father;
James Pomfret; lived there for ten years before his marriage; and
since that and up to the present period; old Mr。 Daguilar has always
been on the spot。  He was; I believe; born in Spain; but he came very
early to England; he married an English wife; and his sons had been
educated exclusively in England。  His only daughter; Maria Daguilar;
did not pass so large a proportion of her early life in this country;
but she came to us for a visit at the age of seventeen; and when she
returned I made up my mind that I most assuredly would go after her。
So I did; and she is now sitting on the other side of the fireplace
with a legion of small linen habiliments in a huge basket by her
side。

I felt; at the first; that there was something lacking to make my cup
of love perfectly delightful。  It was very sweet; but there was
wanting that flower of romance which is generally added to the
heavenly draught by a slight admixture of opposition。  I feared that
the path of my true love would run too smooth。  When Maria came to
our house; my mother and elder sister seemed to be quite willing that
I should be continually alone with her; and she had not been there
ten days before my father; by chance; remarked that there was nothing
old Mr。 Daguilar valued so highly as a thorough feeling of intimate
alliance between the two families which had been so long connected in
trade。  I was never told that Maria was to be my wife; but I felt
that the same thing was done without words; and when; after six weeks
of somewhat elaborate attendance upon her; I asked her to be Mrs。
John Pomfret; I had no more fear of a refusal; or even of hesitation
on her part; than I now have when I suggest to my partner some
commercial transaction of undoubted advantage。

But Maria; even at that age; had about her a quiet sustained decision
of character quite unlike anything I had seen in English girls。  I
used to hear; and do still hear; how much more flippant is the
education of girls in France and Spain than in England; and I know
that this is shown to be the result of many causesthe Roman
Catholic religion being; perhaps; chief offender; but; nevertheless;
I rarely see in one of our own young women the same power of a self…
sustained demeanour as I meet on the Continent。  It goes no deeper
than the demeanour; people say。  I can only answer that I have not
found that shallowness in my own wife。

Miss Daguilar replied to me that she was not prepared with an answer;
she had only known me six weeks; and wanted more time to think about
it; besides; there was one in her own country with whom she would
wish to consult。  I knew she had no mother; and as for consulting old
Mr。 Daguilar on such a subject; that idea; I knew; could not have
troubled her。  Besides; as I afterwards learned; Mr。 Daguilar had
already proposed the marriage to his partner exactly as he would have
proposed a division of assets。  My mother declared that Maria was a
foolish chitin which by…the…bye she showed her entire ignorance of
Miss Daguilar's character; my eldest sister begged that no constraint
might he put on the young lady's inclinationswhich provoked me to
assert that the young lady's inclinations were by no means opposed to
my own; and my father; in the coolest manner suggested that the
matter might stand over for twelve months; and that I might then go
to Seville; and see about it!  Stand over for twelve months!  Would
not Maria; long before that time; have been snapped up and carried
off by one of those inordinately rich Spanish grandees who are still
to be met with occasionally in Andalucia?

My father's dictum; however; had gone forth; and Maria; in the
calmest voice; protested that she thought it very wise。  I should be
less of a boy by that time; she said; smiling on me; but driving
wedges between every fibre of my body as she spoke。  〃Be it so;〃 I
said; proudly。  〃At any rate; I am not so much of a boy that I shall
forget you。〃  〃And; John; you still have the trade to learn;〃 she
added; with her deliciously foreign intonationspeaking very slowly;
but with perfect pronunciation。  The trade to learn!  However; I said
not a word; but stalked out of the room; meaning to see her no more
before she went。  But I could not resist attending on her in the hall
as she started; and; when she took leave of us; she put her face up
to be kissed by me; as she did by my father; and seemed to receive as
much emotion from one embrace as from the other。  〃He'll go out by
the packet of the 1st April;〃 said my father; speaking of me as
though I were a bale of goods。  〃Ah! that will be so nice;〃 said
Maria; settling her dress in the carriage; 〃the oranges will be ripe
for him then!〃

On the 17th April I did sail; and felt still very like a bale of
goods。  I had received one letter from her; in which she merely
stated that her papa would have a room ready for me on my arrival;
and; in answer to that; I had sent an epistle somewhat longer; and;
as I then thought; a little more to the purpose。  Her turn of mind
was more practical than mine; and I must confess my belief that she
did not appreciate my poetry。

I landed at Cadiz; and was there joined by an old family friend; one
of the very best fellows that ever lived。  He was to accompany me up
as far as Seville; and; as he had lived for a year or two at Xeres;
was supposed to be more Spanish almost than a Spaniard。  His name was
Johnson; and he was in the wine trade; and whether for travelling or
whether for staying at homewhether for paying you a visit in your
own house; or whether for entertaining you in histhere never was
(and I am prepared to maintain there never will be) a stancher
friend; choicer companion; or a safer guide than Thomas Johnson。
Words cannot produce a eulogium sufficient for his merits。  But; as I
have since learned; he was not quite so Spanish as I had imagined。
Three years among the bodegas of Xeres had taught him; no doubt; to
appreciate the exact twang of a good; dry sherry; but not; as I now
conceive; the exactest flavour of the true Spanish character。  I was
very lucky; however; in meeting such a friend; and now reckon him as
one of the stanchest allies of the house of Pomfret; Daguilar; and
Pomfret。

He met me at Cadiz; took me about the town; which appeared to me to
be of no very great interest;though the young ladies were all very
well。  But; in this respect; I was then a Stoic; till such time as I
might be able to throw myself at the feet of her whom I was ready to
proclaim the most lovely of all the Dulcineas of Andalucia。  He
carried me up by boat and railway to Xeres; gave me a most terrific
headache; by dragging me out into the glare of the sun; after I had
tasted some half a dozen different wines; and went through all the
ordinary hospitalities。  On the next day we returned to Puerto; and
from thence getting across to St。 Lucar and Bonanza; found ourselves
on the banks of the Guadalquivir; and took our places in the boat for
Seville。  I need say but little to my readers respecting that far…
famed river。  Thirty years ago we in England generally believed that
on its banks was to be found a pure elysium of pastoral beauty; that
picturesque shepherds and lovely maidens here fed their flocks in
fields of asphodel; that the limpid stream ran cool and crystal over
bright stones and beneath perennial shade; and that every thing on
the Guadalquivir was as lovely and as poetical as its name。  Now; it
is pretty widely known that no uglier river oozes down to its bourn
in the sea through unwholesome banks of low mud。  It is brown and
dirty; ungifted by any scenic advantage; margined for miles upon
miles by huge; flat; expansive fields; in which cattle are reared;
the bulls wanted for the bullfights among other; and birds of prey
sit constant on the shore; watching for the carcases of such as die。
Such are the charms of the golden Guadalquivir。

At first we were very dull on board that steamer。  I never found
myself in a position in which there was less to do。  There was a
nasty smell about the little boat which made me almost ill; every
turn in the river was so exactly like the last; that we might have
been standing still; there was no amusement except eating; and that;
when once done; was not of a kind to make an early repetition
desirable。  Even Johnson was becoming dull; and I began to doubt
whether I was so desirous as I once had been to travel the length and
breadth of all Spain。  But about noon a little incident occurred
which did for a time remove some of our tedium。  The boat had stopped
to take in passengers on the river; and; among others; a man had come
on board dressed in a fashion that; to my eyes; was equally strange
and picturesque。  Indeed; his appearance was so singular; that I
could not but regard him with care; though I felt at first averse to
stare at a fellow…passenger on account of his clothes。  He was a man
of about fifty; but as active apparently as though not more than
twenty five; he was of low stature; but of admirable make; his hair
was just becoming grizzled; but was short and crisp and well cared
for; his face was prepossessing; having a look of good humour added
to courtesy; and there was a pleasant; soft smile round his mouth
which ingratiated one at the first sight。  But it was his dress
rather than his person which attracted attention。  He wore the
ordinary Andalucian capof which such hideous parodies are now
making themselves common in Englandbut was not contented with the
usual ornament of the double tuft。  The cap was small; and jaunty;
trimmed with silk velvetas is common here with men careful to adorn
their persons; but this man's cap was finished off with a jewelled
button and golden filigree work。  He was dressed in a short jacket
with a stand up collar; and that also was covered with golden buttons
and with golden button…holes。  It was all gilt down the front; and
all lace down the back。  The rows of buttons were double; and those
of the more backward row hung down in heavy pendules。  His waistcoat
was of coloured silkvery pretty to look at; and ornamented with a
small sash; through which gold threads were worked。  All the buttons
of his breeches also were of gold; and there were gold tags to all
the button…holes。  His stockings were of the finest silk; and clocked
with gold from the knee to the ankle。

Dress any Englishman in such a garb and he will at once give you the
idea of a hog in armour。  In the first place he will lack the proper
spirit to carry it off; and in the next place the motion of his limbs
will disgrace the

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