chronicles of the canongate-第23章

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We　became　so　much　accustomed　to　Donald's　mode　of　managing　us；　that　we　observed　with　some　interest　the　art　which　he　used　to　produce　a　little　agreeable　surprise；　by　concealing　from　us　the　spot　where　he　proposed　our　halt　to　be　made；　when　it　was　of　an　unusual　and　interesting　character。　　This　was　so　much　his　wont　that；　when　he　made　apologies　at　setting　off　for　being　obliged　to　stop　in　some　strange；　solitary　place　till　the　horses　should　eat　the　corn　which　he　brought　on　with　them　for　that　purpose；　our　imagination　used　to　be　on　the　stretch　to　guess　what　romantic　retreat　he　had　secretly　fixed　upon　for　our　noontide　baiting…　place。

We　had　spent　the　greater　part　of　the　morning　at　the　delightful　village　of　Dalmally；　and　had　gone　upon　the　lake　under　the　guidance　of　the　excellent　clergyman　who　was　then　incumbent　at　Glenorquhy；　＇This　venerable　and　hospitable　gentleman's　name　was　MacIntyre。＇　and　had　heard　a　hundred　legends　of　the　stern　chiefs　of　Loch　Awe；　Duncan　with　the　thrum　bonnet；　and　the　other　lords　of　the　now　mouldering　towers　of　Kilchurn。　　＇See　Note　7。Loch　Awe。＇　Thus　it　was　later　than　usual　when　we　set　out　on　our　journey；　after　a　hint　or　two　from　Donald　concerning　the　length　of　the　way　to　the　next　stage；　as　there　was　no　good　halting…place　between　Dalmally　and　Oban。

Having　bid　adieu　to　our　venerable　and　kind　cicerone；　we　proceeded　on　our　tour；　winding　round　the　tremendous　mountain　called　Cruachan　Ben；　which　rushes　down　in　all　its　majesty　of　rocks　and　wilderness　on　the　lake；　leaving　only　a　pass；　in　which；　notwithstanding　its　extreme　strength；　the　warlike　clan　of　MacDougal　of　Lorn　were　almost　destroyed　by　the　sagacious　Robert　Bruce。　　That　King；　the　Wellington　of　his　day；　had　accomplished；　by　a　forced　march；　the　unexpected　manoeuvre　of　forcing　a　body　of　troops　round　the　other　side　of　the　mountain；　and　thus　placed　them　in　the　flank　and　in　the　rear　of　the　men　of　Lorn；　whom　at　the　same　time；　he　attacked　in　front。　　The　great　number　of　cairns　yet　visible　as　you　descend　the　pass　on　the　westward　side　shows　the　extent　of　the　vengeance　which　Bruce　exhausted　on　his　inveterate　and　personal　enemies。　　I　am；　you　know；　the　sister　of　soldiers；　and　it　has　since　struck　me　forcibly　that　the　manoeuvre　which　Donald　described；　resembled　those　of　Wellington　or　of　Bonaparte。　He　was　a　great　man　Robert　Bruce；　even　a　Baliol　must　admit　that；　although　it　begins　now　to　be　allowed　that　his　title　to　the　crown　was　scarce　so　good　as　that　of　the　unfortunate　family　with　whom　he　contended。　　But　let　that　pass。　　The　slaughter　had　been　the　greater；　as　the　deep　and　rapid　river　Awe　is　disgorged　from　the　lake　just　in　the　rear　of　the　fugitives；　and　encircles　the　base　of　the　tremendous　mountain；　so　that　the　retreat　of　the　unfortunate　fleers　was　intercepted　on　all　sides　by　the　inaccessible　character　of　the　country；　which　had　seemed　to　promise　them　defence　and　protection。　　＇See　Note　8。Battle　betwixt　the　armies　of　the　Bruce　and　MacDougal　of　Lorn。＇

Musing；　like　the　Irish　lady　in　the　song；　〃upon　things　which　are　long　enough　a…gone；〃　＇This　is　a　line　from　a　very　pathetic　ballad　which　I　heard　sung　by　one　of　the　young　ladies　of　Edgeworthstown　in　1825。　　I　do　not　know　that　it　has　been　printed。＇　　we　felt　no　impatience　at　the　slow　and　almost　creeping　pace　with　which　our　conductor　proceeded　along　General　Wade's　military　road；　which　never　or　rarely　condescends　to　turn　aside　from　the　steepest　ascent；　but　proceeds　right　up　and　down　hill；　with　the　indifference　to　height　and　hollow；　steep　or　level；　indicated　by　the　old　Roman　engineers。　　Still；　however；　the　substantial　excellence　of　these　great　worksfor　such　are　the　military　highways　in　the　Highlandsdeserved　the　compliment　of　the　poet；　who；　whether　he　came　from　our　sister　kingdom；　and　spoke　in　his　own　dialect；　or　whether　he　supposed　those　whom　he　addressed　might　have　some　national　pretension　to　the　second　sight；　produced　the　celebrated　couplet；

　　〃Had　you　but　seen　these　roads　BEFORE　they　were　made；　　　　You　would　hold　up　your　hands　and　bless　General　Wade。〃

Nothing；　indeed；　can　be　more　wonderful　than　to　see　these　wildernesses　penetrated　and　pervious　in　every　quarter　by　broad　accesses　of　the　best　possible　construction；　and　so　superior　to　what　the　country　could　have　demanded　for　many　centuries　for　any　pacific　purpose　of　commercial　intercourse。　　Thus　the　traces　of　war　are　sometimes　happily　accommodated　to　the　purposes　of　peace。　The　victories　of　Bonaparte　have　been　without　results　but　his　road　over　the　Simplon　will　long　be　the　communication　betwixt　peaceful　countries；　who　will　apply　to　the　ends　of　commerce　and　friendly　intercourse　that　gigantic　work；　which　was　formed　for　the　ambitious　purpose　of　warlike　invasion。

While　we　were　thus　stealing　along；　we　gradually　turned　round　the　shoulder　of　Ben　Cruachan；　and　descending　the　course　of　the　foaming　and　rapid　Awe；　left　behind　us　the　expanse　of　the　majestic　lake　which　gives　birth　to　that　impetuous　river。　　The　rocks　and　precipices　which　stooped　down　perpendicularly　on　our　path　on　the　right　hand　exhibited　a　few　remains　of　the　wood　which　once　clothed　them；　but　which　had　in　later　times　been　felled　to　supply；　Donald　MacLeish　informed　us；　the　iron　foundries　at　the　Bunawe。　　This　made　us　fix　our　eyes　with　interest　on　one　large　oak；　which　grew　on　the　left　hand　towards　the　river。　　It　seemed　a　tree　of　extraordinary　magnitude　and　picturesque　beauty；　and　stood　just　where　there　appeared　to　be　a　few　roods　of　open　ground　lying　among　huge　stones；　which　had　rolled　down　from　the　mountain。　　To　add　to　the　romance　of　the　situation；　the　spot　of　clear　ground　extended　round　the　foot　of　a　proud…browed　rock；　from　the　summit　of　which　leaped　a　mountain　stream　in　a　fall　of　sixty　feet；　in　which　it　was　dissolved　into　foam　and　dew。　　At　the　bottom　of　the　fall　the　rivulet　with　difficulty　collected；　like　a　routed　general；　its　dispersed　forces；　and；　as　if　tamed　by　its　descent；　found　a　noiseless　passage　through　the　heath　to　join　the　Awe。

I　was　much　struck　with　the　tree　and　waterfall；　and　wished　myself　nearer　them；　not　that　I　thought　of　sketch…book　or　portfoliofor　in　my　younger　days　misses　were　not　accustomed　to　black…lead　pencils；　unless　they　could　use　them　to　some　good　purposebut　merely　to　indulge　myself　with　a　closer　view。　　Donald　immediately　opened　the　chaise　door；　but　observed　it　was　rough　walking　down　the　brae；　and　that　I　would　see　the　tree　better　by　keeping　the　road　for　a　hundred　yards　farther；　when　it　passed　closer　to　the　spot；　for　which　he　seemed；　however；　to　have　no　predilection。　　〃He　knew；〃　he　said；　〃a　far　bigger　tree　than　that　nearer　Bunawe；　and　it　was　a　place　where　there　was　flat　ground　for　the　carriage　to　stand；　which　it　could　jimply　do　on　these　braes；　but　just　as　my　leddyship　liked。〃

My　ladyship　did　choose　rather　to　look　at　the　fine　tree　before　me　than　to　pass　it　by　in　hopes　of　a　finer；　so　we　walked　beside　the　carriage　till　we　should　come　to　a　point；　from　which；　Donald　assured　us；　we　might；　without　scrambling；　go　as　near　the　tree　as　we　chose；　〃though　he　wadna　advise　us　to　go　nearer　than　the　highroad。〃

There　was　something　grave　and　mysterious　in　Donald's　sun…browned　countenance　when　he　gave　us　this　intimation；　and　his　manner　was　so　different　from　his　usual　frankness；　that　my　female　curiosity　was　set　in　motion。　　We　walked　on　the　whilst；　and　I　found　the　tree；　of　which　we　had　now　lost　sight　by　the　intervention　of　some　rising　ground；　was　really　more　distant　than　I　had　at　first　supposed。　　〃I　could　have　sworn　now；〃　said　I　to　my　cicerone；　〃that　yon　tree　and　waterfall　was　the　very　place　where　you　intended　to　make　a　stop　to…day。〃

〃The　Lord　forbid！〃　　said　Donald　hastily。

〃And　for　what；　Donald？　　Why　should　you　be　willing　to　pass　so　pleasant　a　spot？〃

〃It's　ower　near　Dalmally；　my　leddy；　to　corn　the　beasts；　it　would　bring　their　dinner　ower　near　their　breakfast；　poor　things。　　An'　besides；　the　place　is　not　canny。〃

〃Oh！　　then　the　mystery　is　out。　　There　is　a　bogle　or　a　brownie；　a　witch　or　a　gyre…carlin；　a　bodach　or　a　fairy；　in　the　case？〃

〃The　ne'er　a　bit；　my　leddyye　are　clean　aff　the　road；　as　I　may　say。　　But　if　your　leddyship　will　just　hae　patience；　and　wait　till　we　are　by　the　place　and　out　of　the　glen；　I'll　tell　ye　all　about　it。　　There　is　no　much　luck　in　speaking　of　such　things　in　the　place　they　chanced　in。〃

I　was　obliged　to　suspend　my　curiosity；　observing；　that　if　I　persisted　in　twisting　the　discourse　one　way　while　Donald　was　twining　it　another；　I　should　make　his　objection；　like　a　hempen　cord；　just　so　much　the　tougher。　　At　length　the　promised　turn　of　the　road　brought　us　within　fifty　paces　of　the　tree　which　I　desired　to　admire；　and　I　now　saw　to　my　surprise；　that　there　was　a　human　habitation　among　the　cliffs　which　surrounded　it。　　It　was　a　hut　of　the　least　dimensions；　and　most　miserable　description　that　I　ever　saw　even　in　the　Highlands。　　The　walls　of　sod；　or　DIVOT；　as　the　Scotch　call　it；　were　not　four　feet　high；　the　roof　was　of　turf；　repaired　with　reeds　and　sedges；　the　chimney　was　composed　of　clay；　bound　round　by　straw　ropes；　and　the　whole　walls；　roof；　and　chimney；　were　alike　covered　with　the　vegetation　of　house…leek；　rye…grass；　and　moss　common　to　decayed　cottages　formed　of　such　materials。　　There　was　not　the　slightest　vestige　of　a　kale…yard；　the　usual　accompaniment　of　the　very　worst　huts；　and　of　living　things　we　saw　nothing；　save　a　kid　which　was　browsing　on　the　roof　of　the　hut；　and　a　goat；　its　mother；　at　some　distance；　feeding　betwixt　the　oak　and　the　river　Awe。

〃What　man；〃　I　could　not　help　exclaiming；　〃can　have　committed　sin　deep　enough　to　deserve　such　a　miserable　dwelling！〃

〃Sin　enough；〃　said　Donald　MacLeish；　with　a　half…suppressed　groan；　〃and　God　he　knoweth；　misery　enough　too。　　And　it　is　no　man's　dwelling　neither；　but　a　woman's。〃

〃A　woman's！〃　　I　repeated；　〃and　in　so　lonely　a　place！　　What　sort　of　a　woman　can　she　be？〃

〃Come　this　way；　my　leddy；　and　you　may　judge　that　for　yourself；〃　said　Donald。　　And　by　advancing　a　few　steps；　and　making　a　sharp　turn　to　the　left；　we　gained　a　sight　of　the　side　of　the　great　broad…breasted　oak；　in　the　direction　opposed　to　that　in　which　we　had　hitherto　seen　it。

〃If　she　keeps　her　old　wont；　she　will　be　there　at　this　hour　of　the　day；〃　said　Donald；　but　immediately　became　silent；　and　pointed　with　his　finger；　as　one　afraid　of　being　overheard。　　I　looked；　and　beheld；　not　without　some　sense　of　awe；　a　female　form　seated　by　the　stem　of　the　oak；　with　her　head　drooping；　her　hands　clasped；　and　a　dark…coloured　mantle　drawn　over　her　head；　exactly　as　Judah　is　represented　in　the　Syrian　medals　as　seated　under　her　palm…　tree。　　I　was　infected　with　the　fear　and　reverence　which　my　guide　seemed　to　entertain　towards　this　solitary　being；　nor　did　I　think　of　advancing　towards　her　to　obtain　a　nearer　view　until　I　had　cast　an　enquiring　look　on　Donald；　to　which　be　replied　in　a　half　whisper；　〃She　has　been　a　fearfu'　bad　woman；　my　leddy。〃

〃Mad　woman；　said　you；〃　replied　I；　hearing　him　imperfectly；　〃then　she　is　perhaps　dangerous？〃

〃Noshe　is　not　mad；〃　replied　Donald；　〃for　then　it　may　be　she　would　be　happier　than　she　is；　though　when　she　thinks　on　what　she　has　done；　and　caused　to　be　done；　rather　than　yield　up　a　hair…　breadth　of　her　ain　wicked　will；　it　is　not　likely　she　can　be　very　well　settled。　　But　she　neither　is　mad　nor　mischievous；　and　yet；　my　leddy；　I　think　you　had　best　not　go　nearer　to　her。〃　　And　then；　in　a　few　hurried　wor