an inland voyage-第2章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


　the　rudder；　and　perhaps　a　jug　or　a　flower…　pot　in　one　of　the　windows；　a　dinghy　following　behind；　a　woman　　busied　about　the　day's　dinner；　and　a　handful　of　children。　　These　　barges　were　all　tied　one　behind　the　other　with　tow　ropes；　to　the　　number　of　twenty…five　or　thirty；　and　the　line　was　headed　and　kept　　in　motion　by　a　steamer　of　strange　construction。　　It　had　neither　　paddle…wheel　nor　screw；　but　by　some　gear　not　rightly　comprehensible　　to　the　unmechanical　mind；　it　fetched　up　over　its　bow　a　small　bright　　chain　which　lay　along　the　bottom　of　the　canal；　and　paying　it　out　　again　over　the　stern；　dragged　itself　forward；　link　by　link；　with　　its　whole　retinue　of　loaded　skows。　　Until　one　had　found　out　the　key　　to　the　enigma；　there　was　something　solemn　and　uncomfortable　in　the　　progress　of　one　of　these　trains；　as　it　moved　gently　along　the　water　　with　nothing　to　mark　its　advance　but　an　eddy　alongside　dying　away　　into　the　wake。

Of　all　the　creatures　of　commercial　enterprise；　a　canal　barge　is　by　　far　the　most　delightful　to　consider。　　It　may　spread　its　sails；　and　　then　you　see　it　sailing　high　above　the　tree…tops　and　the　windmill；　　sailing　on　the　aqueduct；　sailing　through　the　green　corn…lands：　　the　　most　picturesque　of　things　amphibious。　　Or　the　horse　plods　along　at　　a　foot…pace　as　if　there　were　no　such　thing　as　business　in　the　　world；　and　the　man　dreaming　at　the　tiller　sees　the　same　spire　on　　the　horizon　all　day　long。　　It　is　a　mystery　how　things　ever　get　to　　their　destination　at　this　rate；　and　to　see　the　barges　waiting　their　　turn　at　a　lock；　affords　a　fine　lesson　of　how　easily　the　world　may　　be　taken。　　There　should　be　many　contented　spirits　on　board；　for　　such　a　life　is　both　to　travel　and　to　stay　at　home。

The　chimney　smokes　for　dinner　as　you　go　along；　the　banks　of　the　　canal　slowly　unroll　their　scenery　to　contemplative　eyes；　the　barge　　floats　by　great　forests　and　through　great　cities　with　their　public　　buildings　and　their　lamps　at　night；　and　for　the　bargee；　in　his　　floating　home；　'travelling　abed；'　it　is　merely　as　if　he　were　　listening　to　another　man's　story　or　turning　the　leaves　of　a　　picture…book　in　which　he　had　no　concern。　　He　may　take　his　afternoon　　walk　in　some　foreign　country　on　the　banks　of　the　canal；　and　then　　come　home　to　dinner　at　his　own　fireside。

There　is　not　enough　exercise　in　such　a　life　for　any　high　measure　of　　health；　but　a　high　measure　of　health　is　only　necessary　for　　unhealthy　people。　　The　slug　of　a　fellow；　who　is　never　ill　nor　well；　　has　a　quiet　time　of　it　in　life；　and　dies　all　the　easier。

I　am　sure　I　would　rather　be　a　bargee　than　occupy　any　position　under　　heaven　that　required　attendance　at　an　office。　　There　are　few　　callings；　I　should　say；　where　a　man　gives　up　less　of　his　liberty　in　　return　for　regular　meals。　　The　bargee　is　on　shipboard　…　he　is　　master　in　his　own　ship　…　he　can　land　whenever　he　will　…　he　can　　never　be　kept　beating　off　a　lee…shore　a　whole　frosty　night　when　the　　sheets　are　as　hard　as　iron；　and　so　far　as　I　can　make　out；　time　　stands　as　nearly　still　with　him　as　is　compatible　with　the　return　of　　bed…time　or　the　dinner…hour。　　It　is　not　easy　to　see　why　a　bargee　　should　ever　die。

Half…way　between　Willebroek　and　Villevorde；　in　a　beautiful　reach　of　　canal　like　a　squire's　avenue；　we　went　ashore　to　lunch。　　There　were　　two　eggs；　a　junk　of　bread；　and　a　bottle　of　wine　on　board　the　　ARETHUSA；　and　two　eggs　and　an　Etna　cooking　apparatus　on　board　the　　CIGARETTE。　　The　master　of　the　latter　boat　smashed　one　of　the　eggs　　in　the　course　of　disembarkation；　but　observing　pleasantly　that　it　　might　still　be　cooked　A　LA　PAPIER；　he　dropped　it　into　the　Etna；　in　　its　covering　of　Flemish　newspaper。　　We　landed　in　a　blink　of　fine　　weather；　but　we　had　not　been　two　minutes　ashore　before　the　wind　　freshened　into　half　a　gale；　and　the　rain　began　to　patter　on　our　　shoulders。　　We　sat　as　close　about　the　Etna　as　we　could。　　The　　spirits　burned　with　great　ostentation；　the　grass　caught　flame　every　　minute　or　two；　and　had　to　be　trodden　out；　and　before　long；　there　　were　several　burnt　fingers　of　the　party。　　But　the　solid　quantity　of　　cookery　accomplished　was　out　of　proportion　with　so　much　display；　　and　when　we　desisted；　after　two　applications　of　the　fire；　the　sound　　egg　was　little　more　than　loo…warm；　and　as　for　A　LA　PAPIER；　it　was　a　　cold　and　sordid　FRICASSEE　of　printer's　ink　and　broken　egg…shell。　　　We　made　shift　to　roast　the　other　two；　by　putting　them　close　to　the　　burning　spirits；　and　that　with　better　success。　　And　then　we　　uncorked　the　bottle　of　wine；　and　sat　down　in　a　ditch　with　our　canoe　　aprons　over　our　knees。　　It　rained　smartly。　　Discomfort；　when　it　is　　honestly　uncomfortable　and　makes　no　nauseous　pretensions　to　the　　contrary；　is　a　vastly　humorous　business；　and　people　well　steeped　　and　stupefied　in　the　open　air　are　in　a　good　vein　for　laughter。　　　From　this　point　of　view；　even　egg　A　LA　PAPIER　offered　by　way　of　　food　may　pass　muster　as　a　sort　of　accessory　to　the　fun。　　But　this　　manner　of　jest；　although　it　may　be　taken　in　good　part；　does　not　　invite　repetition；　and　from　that　time　forward；　the　Etna　voyaged　　like　a　gentleman　in　the　locker　of　the　CIGARETTE。

It　is　almost　unnecessary　to　mention　that　when　lunch　was　over　and　we　　got　aboard　again　and　made　sail；　the　wind　promptly　died　away。　　The　　rest　of　the　journey　to　Villevorde；　we　still　spread　our　canvas　to　　the　unfavouring　air；　and　with　now　and　then　a　puff；　and　now　and　then　　a　spell　of　paddling；　drifted　along　from　lock　to　lock；　between　the　　orderly　trees。

It　was　a　fine；　green；　fat　landscape；　or　rather　a　mere　green　water…　lane；　going　on　from　village　to　village。　　Things　had　a　settled　look；　　as　in　places　long　lived　in。　　Crop…headed　children　spat　upon　us　from　　the　bridges　as　we　went　below；　with　a　true　conservative　feeling。　　　But　even　more　conservative　were　the　fishermen；　intent　upon　their　　floats；　who　let　us　go　by　without　one　glance。　　They　perched　upon　　sterlings　and　buttresses　and　along　the　slope　of　the　embankment；　　gently　occupied。　　They　were　indifferent；　like　pieces　of　dead　　nature。　　They　did　not　move　any　more　than　if　they　had　been　fishing　　in　an　old　Dutch　print。　　The　leaves　fluttered；　the　water　lapped；　but　　they　continued　in　one　stay　like　so　many　churches　established　by　　law。　　You　might　have　trepanned　every　one　of　their　innocent　heads；　　and　found　no　more　than　so　much　coiled　fishing…line　below　their　　skulls。　　I　do　not　care　for　your　stalwart　fellows　in　india…rubber　　stockings　breasting　up　mountain　torrents　with　a　salmon　rod；　but　I　　do　dearly　love　the　class　of　man　who　plies　his　unfruitful　art；　for　　ever　and　a　day；　by　still　and　depopulated　waters。

At　the　last　lock；　just　beyond　Villevorde；　there　was　a　lock…mistress　　who　spoke　French　comprehensibly；　and　told　us　we　were　still　a　couple　　of　leagues　from　Brussels。　　At　the　same　place；　the　rain　began　again。　　　It　fell　in　straight；　parallel　lines；　and　the　surface　of　the　canal　　was　thrown　up　into　an　infinity　of　little　crystal　fountains。　　There　　were　no　beds　to　be　had　in　the　neighbourhood。　　Nothing　for　it　but　to　　lay　the　sails　aside　and　address　ourselves　to　steady　paddling　in　the　　rain。

Beautiful　country　houses；　with　clocks　and　long　lines　of　shuttered　　windows；　and　fine　old　trees　standing　in　groves　and　avenues；　gave　a　　rich　and　sombre　aspect　in　the　rain　and　the　deepening　dusk　to　the　　shores　of　the　canal。　　I　seem　to　have　seen　something　of　the　same　　effect　in　engravings：　　opulent　landscapes；　deserted　and　overhung　　with　the　passage　of　storm。　　And　throughout　we　had　the　escort　of　a　　hooded　cart；　which　trotted　shabbily　along　the　tow…path；　and　kept　at　　an　almost　uniform　distance　in　our　wake。



THE　ROYAL　SPORT　NAUTIQUE



THE　rain　took　off　near　Laeken。　　But　the　sun　was　already　down；　the　　air　was　chill；　and　we　had　scarcely　a　dry　stitch　between　the　pair　of　　us。　　Nay；　now　we　found　ourselves　near　the　end　of　the　Allee　Verte；　　and　on　the　very　threshold　of　Brussels；　we　were　confronted　by　a　　serious　difficulty。　　The　shores　were　closely　lined　by　canal　boats　　waiting　their　turn　at　the　lock。　　Nowhere　was　there　any　convenient　　landing…place；　nowhere　so　much　as　a　stable…yard　to　leave　the　canoes　　in　for　the　night。　　We　scrambled　ashore　and　entered　an　ESTAMINET　　where　some　sorry　fellows　were　drinking　with　the　landlord。　　The　　landlord　was　pretty　round　with　us；　he　knew　of　no　coach…house　or　　stable…yard；　nothing　of　the　sort；　and　seeing　we　had　come　with　no　　mind　to　drink；　he　did　not　conceal　his　impatience　to　be　rid　of　us。　　　One　of　the　sorry　fellows　came　to　the　rescue。　　Somewhere　in　the　　corner　of　the　basin　there　was　a　slip；　he　informed　us；　and　something　　else　besides；　not　very　clearly　defined　by　him；　but　hopefully　　construed　by　his　hearers。

Sure　enough　there　was　the　slip　in　the　corner　of　the　basin；　and　at　　the　top　of　it　two　nice…looking　lads　in　boating　clothes。　　The　　ARETHUSA　addressed　himself　to　these。　　One　of　them　said　there　would　　be　no　difficulty　about　a　night's　lodging　for　our　boats；　and　the　　other；　taking　a　cigarette　from　his　lips；　inquired　if　they　were　made　　by　Searle　and　Son。　　The　name　was　quite　an　introduction。　　Half…a…　dozen　other　young　men　came　out　of　a　boat…house　bearing　the　　superscription　ROYAL　SPORT　NAUTIQUE；　and　joined　in　the　talk。　　They　　were　all　very　polite；　voluble；　and　enthusiastic；　and　their　　discourse　was　interlarded　with　English　boating　terms；　and　the　names　　of　English　boat…builders　and　English　clubs。　　I　do　not　know；　to　my　　shame；　any　spot　in　my　native　land　where　I　should　have　been　so　　warmly　received　by　the　same　number　of　people。　　We　were　English　　boating…men；　and　the　Belgian　boating…men　fell　upon　our　necks。　　I　　wonder　if　French　Huguenots　were　as　cordially　greeted　by　English　　Protestants　when　they　came　across　the　Channel　out　of　great　　tribulation。　　But　after　all；　what　religion　knits　people　so　closely　　as　a　common　sport？

The　canoes　were　carried　into　the　boat…house；　they　were　washed　down　　for　us　by　the　Club　servants；　the　sails　were　hung　out　to　dry；　and　　everything　made　as　snug　and　tidy　as　a　picture。　　And　in　the　　meanwhile　we　were　led　upstairs　by　our　new…found　brethren；　for　so　　more　than　one　of　them　stated　the　relationship；　and　made　free　of　　their　lavatory。　　This　one　lent　us　soap；　that　one　a　towel；　a　third　　and　fourth　helped　us　to　undo　our　bags。　　And　all　the　time　such　　questions；　such　assurances　of　respect　and　sympathy！　　I　declare　I　　never　knew　what　glory　was　before。

'Yes；　yes；　the　ROYAL　SPORT　NAUTIQUE　is　the　oldest　club　in　Belgium。'

'We　number　two　hundred。'

'We'　…　this　is　not　a　substantive　speech；　but　an　abstract　of　many　　speeches；　the　impression　left　upon　my　mind　after　a　great　deal　of　　talk；　and　very　youthful；　pleasant；　natural；　and　patriotic　it　seems　　to　me　to　be　…　'We　have　gained　all　races；　except　those　where　we　were　　cheated　by　the　French。'

'You　must　leave　all　your　wet　things　to　be　dried。'

'O！　ENTRE　FRERES！　　In　any　boat…house　in　England　we　should　find　the　　same。'　　（I　cordially　hope　they　might。）

'EN　ANGLETERRE；　VOUS　EMPLOYEZ　DES　SLIDING…SEATS；　N'EST…CE　PAS？'

'We　are　all　employed　in　commerce　during　the　day；　but　in　the　　evening；　VOYEZ…VOUS；　NOUS　SOMMES　SERIEUX。'

These　were　the　words。　　They　were　all　employed　over　the　frivolous　　mercantile　concerns　of　Belgium　during　the　day；　but　in　the　evening　　they　found　some　hours　for　the　serious　concerns　of　life。　　I　may　have　　a　wrong　idea　of　wisdom；　but　I　think　that　was　a　very　wise　remark。　　　People