an inland voyage-第4章

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One　person　in　Maubeuge；　however；　showed　me　something　more　than　his　　outside。　　That　was　the　driver　of　the　hotel　omnibus：　　a　mean　enough　　looking　little　man；　as　well　as　I　can　remember；　but　with　a　spark　of　　something　human　in　his　soul。　　He　had　heard　of　our　little　journey；　　and　came　to　me　at　once　in　envious　sympathy。　　How　he　longed　to　　travel！　he　told　me。　　How　he　longed　to　be　somewhere　else；　and　see　　the　round　world　before　he　went　into　the　grave！　　'Here　I　am；'　said　　he。　　'I　drive　to　the　station。　　Well。　　And　then　I　drive　back　again　　to　the　hotel。　　And　so　on　every　day　and　all　the　week　round。　　My　God；　　is　that　life？'　　I　could　not　say　I　thought　it　was　…　for　him。　　He　　pressed　me　to　tell　him　where　I　had　been；　and　where　I　hoped　to　go；　　and　as　he　listened；　I　declare　the　fellow　sighed。　　Might　not　this　　have　been　a　brave　African　traveller；　or　gone　to　the　Indies　after　　Drake？　　But　it　is　an　evil　age　for　the　gypsily　inclined　among　men。　　　He　who　can　sit　squarest　on　a　three…legged　stool；　he　it　is　who　has　　the　wealth　and　glory。

I　wonder　if　my　friend　is　still　driving　the　omnibus　for　the　Grand　　Cerf？　　Not　very　likely；　I　believe；　for　I　think　he　was　on　the　eve　of　　mutiny　when　we　passed　through；　and　perhaps　our　passage　determined　　him　for　good。　　Better　a　thousand　times　that　he　should　be　a　tramp；　　and　mend　pots　and　pans　by　the　wayside；　and　sleep　under　trees；　and　　see　the　dawn　and　the　sunset　every　day　above　a　new　horizon。　　I　think　　I　hear　you　say　that　it　is　a　respectable　position　to　drive　an　　omnibus？　　Very　well。　　What　right　has　he　who　likes　it　not；　to　keep　　those　who　would　like　it　dearly　out　of　this　respectable　position？　　　Suppose　a　dish　were　not　to　my　taste；　and　you　told　me　that　it　was　a　　favourite　amongst　the　rest　of　the　company；　what　should　I　conclude　　from　that？　　Not　to　finish　the　dish　against　my　stomach；　I　suppose。

Respectability　is　a　very　good　thing　in　its　way；　but　it　does　not　　rise　superior　to　all　considerations。　　I　would　not　for　a　moment　　venture　to　hint　that　it　was　a　matter　of　taste；　but　I　think　I　will　　go　as　far　as　this：　　that　if　a　position　is　admittedly　unkind；　　uncomfortable；　unnecessary；　and　superfluously　useless；　although　it　　were　as　respectable　as　the　Church　of　England；　the　sooner　a　man　is　　out　of　it；　the　better　for　himself；　and　all　concerned。



ON　THE　SAMBRE　CANALISED



TO　QUARTES


ABOUT　three　in　the　afternoon　the　whole　establishment　of　the　GRAND　　CERF　accompanied　us　to　the　water's　edge。　　The　man　of　the　omnibus　　was　there　with　haggard　eyes。　　Poor　cage…bird！　　Do　I　not　remember　　the　time　when　I　myself　haunted　the　station；　to　watch　train　after　　train　carry　its　complement　of　freemen　into　the　night；　and　read　the　　names　of　distant　places　on　the　time…bills　with　indescribable　　longings？

We　were　not　clear　of　the　fortifications　before　the　rain　began。　　The　　wind　was　contrary；　and　blew　in　furious　gusts；　nor　were　the　aspects　　of　nature　any　more　clement　than　the　doings　of　the　sky。　　For　we　　passed　through　a　stretch　of　blighted　country；　sparsely　covered　with　　brush；　but　handsomely　enough　diversified　with　factory　chimneys。　　We　　landed　in　a　soiled　meadow　among　some　pollards；　and　there　smoked　a　　pipe　in　a　flaw　of　fair　weather。　　But　the　wind　blew　so　hard；　we　　could　get　little　else　to　smoke。　　There　were　no　natural　objects　in　　the　neighbourhood；　but　some　sordid　workshops。　　A　group　of　children　　headed　by　a　tall　girl　stood　and　watched　us　from　a　little　distance　　all　the　time　we　stayed。　　I　heartily　wonder　what　they　thought　of　us。

At　Hautmont；　the　lock　was　almost　impassable；　the　landing…place　　being　steep　and　high；　and　the　launch　at　a　long　distance。　　Near　a　　dozen　grimy　workmen　lent　us　a　hand。　　They　refused　any　reward；　and；　　what　is　much　better；　refused　it　handsomely；　without　conveying　any　　sense　of　insult。　　'It　is　a　way　we　have　in　our　countryside；'　said　　they。　　And　a　very　becoming　way　it　is。　　In　Scotland；　where　also　you　　will　get　services　for　nothing；　the　good　people　reject　your　money　as　　if　you　had　been　trying　to　corrupt　a　voter。　　When　people　take　the　　trouble　to　do　dignified　acts；　it　is　worth　while　to　take　a　little　　more；　and　allow　the　dignity　to　be　common　to　all　concerned。　　But　in　　our　brave　Saxon　countries；　where　we　plod　threescore　years　and　ten　　in　the　mud；　and　the　wind　keeps　singing　in　our　ears　from　birth　to　　burial；　we　do　our　good　and　bad　with　a　high　hand　and　almost　　offensively；　and　make　even　our　alms　a　witness…bearing　and　an　act　of　　war　against　the　wrong。

After　Hautmont；　the　sun　came　forth　again　and　the　wind　went　down；　　and　a　little　paddling　took　us　beyond　the　ironworks　and　through　a　　delectable　land。　　The　river　wound　among　low　hills；　so　that　　sometimes　the　sun　was　at　our　backs；　and　sometimes　it　stood　right　　ahead；　and　the　river　before　us　was　one　sheet　of　intolerable　glory。　　　On　either　hand；　meadows　and　orchards　bordered；　with　a　margin　of　　sedge　and　water　flowers；　upon　the　river。　　The　hedges　were　of　great　　height；　woven　about　the　trunks　of　hedgerow　elms；　and　the　fields；　as　　they　were　often　very　small；　looked　like　a　series　of　bowers　along　　the　stream。　　There　was　never　any　prospect；　sometimes　a　hill…top　　with　its　trees　would　look　over　the　nearest　hedgerow；　just　to　make　a　　middle　distance　for　the　sky；　but　that　was　all。　　The　heaven　was　bare　　of　clouds。　　The　atmosphere；　after　the　rain；　was　of　enchanting　　purity。　　The　river　doubled　among　the　hillocks；　a　shining　strip　of　　mirror　glass；　and　the　dip　of　the　paddles　set　the　flowers　shaking　　along　the　brink。

In　the　meadows　wandered　black　and　white　cattle　fantastically　　marked。　　One　beast；　with　a　white　head　and　the　rest　of　the　body　　glossy　black；　came　to　the　edge　to　drink；　and　stood　gravely　　twitching　his　ears　at　me　as　I　went　by；　like　some　sort　of　　preposterous　clergyman　in　a　play。　　A　moment　after　I　heard　a　loud　　plunge；　and；　turning　my　head；　saw　the　clergyman　struggling　to　　shore。　　The　bank　had　given　way　under　his　feet。

Besides　the　cattle；　we　saw　no　living　things　except　a　few　birds　and　　a　great　many　fishermen。　　These　sat　along　the　edges　of　the　meadows；　　sometimes　with　one　rod；　sometimes　with　as　many　as　half　a　score。　　　They　seemed　stupefied　with　contentment；　and　when　we　induced　them　to　　exchange　a　few　words　with　us　about　the　weather；　their　voices　　sounded　quiet　and　far　away。　　There　was　a　strange　diversity　of　　opinion　among　them　as　to　the　kind　of　fish　for　which　they　set　their　　lures；　although　they　were　all　agreed　in　this；　that　the　river　was　　abundantly　supplied。　　Where　it　was　plain　that　no　two　of　them　had　　ever　caught　the　same　kind　of　fish；　we　could　not　help　suspecting　　that　perhaps　not　any　one　of　them　had　ever　caught　a　fish　at　all。　　I　　hope；　since　the　afternoon　was　so　lovely；　that　they　were　one　and　all　　rewarded；　and　that　a　silver　booty　went　home　in　every　basket　for　the　　pot。　　Some　of　my　friends　would　cry　shame　on　me　for　this；　but　I　　prefer　a　man；　were　he　only　an　angler；　to　the　bravest　pair　of　gills　　in　all　God's　waters。　　I　do　not　affect　fishes　unless　when　cooked　in　　sauce；　whereas　an　angler　is　an　important　piece　of　river　scenery；　　and　hence　deserves　some　recognition　among　canoeists。　　He　can　always　　tell　you　where　you　are　after　a　mild　fashion；　and　his　quiet　presence　　serves　to　accentuate　the　solitude　and　stillness；　and　remind　you　of　　the　glittering　citizens　below　your　boat。

The　Sambre　turned　so　industriously　to　and　fro　among　his　little　　hills；　that　it　was　past　six　before　we　drew　near　the　lock　at　　Quartes。　　There　were　some　children　on　the　tow…path；　with　whom　the　　CIGARETTE　fell　into　a　chaffing　talk　as　they　ran　along　beside　us。　　　It　was　in　vain　that　I　warned　him。　　In　vain　I　told　him；　in　English；　　that　boys　were　the　most　dangerous　creatures；　and　if　once　you　began　　with　them；　it　was　safe　to　end　in　a　shower　of　stones。　　For　my　own　　part；　whenever　anything　was　addressed　to　me；　I　smiled　gently　and　　shook　my　head　as　though　I　were　an　inoffensive　person　inadequately　　acquainted　with　French。　　For　indeed　I　have　had　such　experience　at　　home；　that　I　would　sooner　meet　many　wild　animals　than　a　troop　of　　healthy　urchins。

But　I　was　doing　injustice　to　these　peaceable　young　Hainaulters。　　　When　the　CIGARETTE　went　off　to　make　inquiries；　I　got　out　upon　the　　bank　to　smoke　a　pipe　and　superintend　the　boats；　and　became　at　once　　the　centre　of　much　amiable　curiosity。　　The　children　had　been　joined　　by　this　time　by　a　young　woman　and　a　mild　lad　who　had　lost　an　arm；　　and　this　gave　me　more　security。　　When　I　let　slip　my　first　word　or　　so　in　French；　a　little　girl　nodded　her　head　with　a　comical　grown…up　　air。　　'Ah；　you　see；'　she　said；　'he　understands　well　enough　now；　he　　was　just　making　believe。'　　And　the　little　group　laughed　together　　very　good…naturedly。

They　were　much　impressed　when　they　heard　we　came　from　England；　and　　the　little　girl　proffered　the　information　that　England　was　an　　island　'and　a　far　way　from　here　…　BIEN　LOIN　D'ICI。'

'Ay；　you　may　say　that；　a　far　way　from　here；'　said　the　lad　with　one　　arm。

I　was　as　nearly　home…sick　as　ever　I　was　in　my　life；　they　seemed　to　　make　it　such　an　incalculable　distance　to　the　place　where　I　first　　saw　the　day。　　They　admired　the　canoes　very　much。　　And　I　observed　　one　piece　of　delicacy　in　these　children；　which　is　worthy　of　record。　　　They　had　been　deafening　us　for　the　last　hundred　yards　with　　petitions　for　a　sail；　ay；　and　they　deafened　us　to　the　same　tune　　next　morning　when　we　came　to　start；　but　then；　when　the　canoes　were　　lying　empty；　there　was　no　word　of　any　such　petition。　　Delicacy？　or　　perhaps　a　bit　of　fear　for　the　water　in　so　crank　a　vessel？　　I　hate　　cynicism　a　great　deal　worse　than　I　do　the　devil；　unless　perhaps　the　　two　were　the　same　thing？　　And　yet　'tis　a　good　tonic；　the　cold　tub　　and　bath…towel　of　the　sentiments；　and　positively　necessary　to　life　　in　cases　of　advanced　sensibility。

From　the　boats　they　turned　to　my　costume。　　They　could　not　make　　enough　of　my　red　sash；　and　my　knife　filled　them　with　awe。

'They　make　them　like　that　in　England；'　said　the　boy　with　one　arm。　　　I　was　glad　he　did　not　know　how　badly　we　make　them　in　England　now…a…　days。　　'They　are　for　people　who　go　away　to　sea；'　he　added；　'and　to　　defend　one's　life　against　great　fish。'

I　felt　I　was　becoming　a　more　and　more　romantic　figure　to　the　little　　group　at　every　word。　　And　so　I　suppose　I　was。　　Even　my　pipe；　　although　it　was　an　ordinary　French　clay　pretty　well　'trousered；'　as　　they　call　it；　would　have　a　rarity　in　their　eyes；　as　a　thing　coming　　from　so　far　away。　　And　if　my　feathers　were　not　very　fine　in　　themselves；　they　were　all　from　over　seas。　　One　thing　in　my　outfit；　　however；　tickled　them　out　of　all　politeness；　and　that　was　the　　bemired　condition　of　my　canvas　shoes。　　I　suppose　they　were　sure　the　　mud　at　any　rate　was　a　home　product。　　The　little　girl　（who　was　the　　genius　of　the　party）　displayed　her　own　sabots　in　competition；　and　I　　wish　you　could　have　seen　how　gracefully　and　merrily　she　did　it。

The　young　woman's　milk…can；　a　great　amphora　of　hammered　brass；　　stood　some　way　off　upon　the　sward。　　I　was　glad　of　an　opportunity　to　　divert　public　attention　from　myself；　and　return　some　of　the　　compliments　I　had　received。　　So　I　admired　it　cordially　both　for　　form　and　colour；　telling　them；　and　very　truly；　that　it　was　as　　beautiful　as　gold。　　They　were　not　surprised。　　The　things　were　　plainly　the　boast　of　the　countryside。　　And　the　children　expatiated　　on　the　costliness　of　these　amphorae；　which　sell　sometimes　as　high