an old town by the sea-第3章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


he　overhanging　and　interlaced　boughs　of　the　trees；　festooned　with　a　drapery　even　more　graceful　and　dazzling　than　springtime　gives　them。　　The　numerous　elms　and　maples　which　shade　the　principal　thoroughfares　are　not　the　result　of　chance；　but　the　ample　reward　of　the　loving　care　that　is　taken　to　preserve　the　trees。　　There　is　a　society　in　Portsmouth　devoted　to　arboriculture。　It　is　not　unusual　there　for　persons　to　leave　legacies　to　be　expended　in　setting　out　shade　and　ornamental　trees　along　some　favorite　walk。　　Richards　Avenue；　a　long；　unbuilt　thoroughfare　leading　from　Middle　Street　to　the　South　Burying…Ground；　perpetuates　the　name　of　a　citizen　who　gave　the　labor　of　his　own　hands　to　the　beautifying　of　that　windswept　and　barren　road　the　cemetery。　This　fondness　and　care　for　trees　seems　to　be　a　matter　of　heredity。　　So　far　back　as　1660　the　selectmen　instituted　a　fine　of　five　shillings　for　the　cutting　of　timber　or　any　other　wood　from　off　the　town　common；　excepting　under　special　conditions。

In　the　business　section　of　the　town　trees　are　few。　　The　chief　business　streets　are　Congress　and　Market。　　Market　Street　is　the　stronghold　of　the　dry…goods　shops。　　There　are　seasons；　I　suppose；　when　these　shops　are　crowded；　but　I　have　never　happened　to　be　in　Portsmouth　at　the　time。　　I　seldom　pass　through　the　narrow　cobble…paved　street　without　wondering　where　the　customers　are　that　must　keep　all　these　flourishing　little　establishments　going。　Congress　Streeta　more　elegant　thoroughfare　than　Marketis　the　Nevski　Prospekt　of　Portsmouth。　　Among　the　prominent　buildings　is　the　Athenaeum；　containing　a　reading…room　and　library。　　From　the　high　roof　of　this　building　the　stroller　will　do　well　to　take　a　glance　at　the　surrounding　country。　　He　will　naturally　turn　seaward　for　the　more　picturesque　aspects。　If　the　day　is　clear；　he　will　see　the　famous　Isle　of　Shoals；　lying　nine　miles　awayAppledore；　Smutty…Nose；　Star　Island；　White　Island；　etc。；　there　are　nine　of　them　in　all。　　On　Appledore　is　Laighton's　Hotel；　and　near　it　the　summer　cottage　of　Celia　Thaxter；　the　poet　of　the　Isles。　　On　the　northern　end　of　Star　Island　is　the　quaint　town　of　Gosport；　with　a　tiny　stone　church　perched　like　a　sea…gull　on　its　highest　rock。　　A　mile　southwest　form　Star　Island　lies　White　Island；　on　which　is　a　lighthouse。　Mrs。　Thaxter　calls　this　the　most　picturesque　of　the　group。　　Perilous　neighbors；　O　mariner！　in　any　but　the　serenest　weather；　these　wrinkled；　scarred；　are　storm…smitten　rocks；　flanked　by　wicked　sunken　ledges　that　grow　white　at　the　lip　with　rage　when　the　great　winds　blow！

How　peaceful　it　all　looks　off　there；　on　the　smooth　emerald　sea！　and　how　softly　the　waves　seem　to　break　on　yonder　point　where　the　unfinished　fort　is！　　That　is　the　ancient　town　of　Newcastle；　to　reach　which　from　Portsmouth　you　have　to　cross　three　bridges　with　the　most　enchanting　scenery　in　New　Hampshire　lying　on　either　hand。　　At　Newcastle　the　poet　Stedman　has　built　for　his　summerings　an　enviable　little　stone　chateaua　seashell　into　which　I　fancy　the　sirens　creep　to　warm　themselves　during　the　winter　months。　　So　it　is　never　without　its　singer。

Opposite　Newcastle　is　Kittery　Point；　a　romantic　spot；　where　Sir　William　Pepperell；　the　first　American　baronet；　once　lived；　and　where　his　tomb　now　is；　in　his　orchard　across　the　road；　a　few　hundred　yards　from　the　〃goodly　mansion〃　he　built。　The　knight's　tomb　and　the　old　Pepperell　House；　which　has　been　somewhat　curtailed　of　it　fair　proportions；　are　the　objects　of　frequent　pilgrimages　to　Kittery　Point。

From　the　elevation　（the　roof　of　the　Athenaeun）　the　navy　yard；　the　river　with　its　bridges　and　islands；　the　clustered　gables　of　Kittery　and　Newcastle；　the　illimitable　ocean　beyond　make　a　picture　worth　climbing　four　or　five　flights　of　stairs　to　gaze　upon。　Glancing　down　on　the　town　nestled　in　the　foliage；　it　seems　like　a　town　dropped　by　chance　in　the　midst　of　a　forest。　Among　the　prominent　objects　which　lift　themselves　above　the　tree　tops　are　the　belfries　of　the　various　churches；　the　white　fa鏰de　of　the　custom　house；　and　the　mansard　and　chimneys　of　the　Rockingham；　the　principal　hotel。　The　pilgrim　will　be　surprised　to　find　in　Portsmouth　one　of　the　most　completely　appointed　hotels　in　the　United　States。　　The　antiquarian　may　lament　the　demolition　of　the　old　Bell　Tavern；　and　think　regretfully　of　the　good　cheer　once　furnished　the　wayfarer　by　Master　Stavers　at　the　sign　of　the　Earl　of　Halifax；　and　by　Master　Stoodley　at　his　inn　on　Daniel　Street；　but　the　ordinary　traveler　will　thank　his　stars；　and　confess　that　his　lines　have　fallen　in　pleasant　places；　when　he　finds　himself　among　the　frescoes　of　the　Rockingham。

Obliquely　opposite　the　doorstep　of　the　Athenaeumwe　are　supposed　to　be　on　terra　firma　againstands　the　Old　North　Church；　a　substantial　wooden　building；　handsomely　set　on　what　is　called　The　Parade；　a　large　open　space　formed　by　the　junction　of　Congress；　Market；　Daniel；　and　Pleasant　streets。　Here　in　days　innocent　of　water…works　stood　the　town　pump；　which　on　more　than　one　occasion　served　as　whipping…post。

The　churches　of　Portsmouth　are　more　remarkable　for　their　number　than　their　architecture。　With　the　exception　of　the　Stone　Church　they　are　constructed　of　wood　or　plain　brick　in　the　simplest　style。　　St。　John's　Church　is　the　only　one　likely　to　attract　the　eye　of　a　stranger。　　It　is　finely　situated　on　the　crest　of　Church　Hill；　overlooking　the　ever…beautiful　river。　　The　present　edifice　was　built　in　1808　on　the　site　of　what　was　known　as　Queen's　Chapel；　erected　in　1732；　and　destroyed　by　fire　December　24；　1806。　The　chapel　was　named　in　honor　of　Queen　Caroline；　who　furnished　the　books　for　the　altar　and　pulpit；　the　plate；　and　two　solid　mahogany　chairs；　which　are　still　in　use　in　St。　John's。　　Within　the　chancel　rail　is　a　curious　font　of　porphyry；　taken　by　Colonel　John　Tufton　Mason　at　the　capture　of　Senegal　from　the　French　in　1758；　and　presented　to　the　Episcopal　Society　on　1761。　The　peculiarly　sweet…toned　bell　which　calls　the　parishioners　of　St。　John's　together　every　Sabbath　is；　I　believe；　the　same　that　formerly　hung　in　the　belfry　of　the　old　Queen's　Chapel。　If　so；　the　bell　has　a　history　of　its　own。　It　was　brought　from　Louisburg　at　the　time　of　the　reduction　of　that　place　in　1745；　and　given　to　the　church　by　the　officers　of　the　New　Hampshire　troops。

The　Old　South　Meeting…House　is　not　to　be　passed　without　mention。　It　is　among　the　most　aged　survivals　of　pre…revolutionary　days。　Neither　its　architecture　not　its　age；　however；　is　its　chief　warrant　for　our　notice。　　The　absurd　number　of　windows　in　this　battered　old　structure　is　what　strikes　the　passer…by。　The　church　was　erected　by　subscription；　and　these　closely　set　large　windows　are　due　to　Henry　Sherburne；　one　of　the　wealthiest　citizens　of　the　period；　who　agreed　to　pay　for　whatever　glass　was　used。　　If　the　building　could　have　been　composed　entirely　of　glass　it　would　have　been　done　by　the　thrifty　parishioners。

Portsmouth　is　rich　in　graveyardsthey　seem　to　be　a　New　England　specialtyancient　and　modern。　　Among　the　old　burial…places　the　one　attached　to　St。　John's　Church　is　perhaps　the　most　interesting。　　It　has　not　been　permitted　to　fall　into　ruin；　like　the　old　cemetery　at　the　Point　of　Graves。　　When　a　headstone　here　topples　over　it　is　kindly　lifted　up　and　set　on　its　pins　again；　and　encouraged　to　do　its　duty。　If　it　utterly　refuses；　and　is　not　shamming　decrepitude；　it　has　its　face　sponged；　and　is　allowed　to　rest　and　sun　itself　against　the　wall　of　the　church　with　a　row　of　other　exempts。　The　trees　are　kept　pruned；　the　grass　trimmed；　and　here　and　there　is　a　rosebush　drooping　with　a　weight　of　pensive　pale　roses；　as　becomes　a　rosebush　in　a　churchyard。

The　place　has　about　it　an　indescribable　soothing　atmosphere　of　respectability　and　comfort。　Here　rest　the　remains　of　the　principal　and　loftiest　in　rank　in　their　generation　of　the　citizens　of　Portsmouth　prior　to　the　Revolutionstanch；　royalty…loving　governors；　counselors；　and　secretaries　of　the　Providence　of　New　Hampshire；　all　snugly　gathered　under　the　motherly　wing　of　the　Church　of　England。　　It　is　almost　impossible　to　walk　anywhere　without　stepping　on　a　governor。　You　grow　haughty　in　spirit　after　a　while；　and　scorn　to　tread　on　anything　less　than　one　of　His　Majesty's　colonels　or　secretary　under　the　Crown。　Here　are　the　tombs　of　the　Atkinsons；　the　Jaffreys；　the　Sherburnes；　the　Sheafes；　the　Marshes；　the　Mannings；　the　Gardners；　and　others　of　the　quality。　All　around　you　underfoot　are　tumbled…in　coffins；　with　here　and　there　a　rusty　sword　atop；　and　faded　escutcheons；　and　crumbling　armorial　devices。　You　are　moving　in　the　very　best　society。

This；　however；　is　not　the　earliest　cemetery　in　Portsmouth。　　An　hour's　walk　from　the　Episcopal　yard　will　bring　you　to　the　spot；　already　mentioned；　where　the　first　house　was　built　and　the　first　grave　made；　at　Odiorne's　Point。　The　exact　site　of　the　Manor　is　not　known；　but　it　is　supposed　to　be　a　few　rods　north　of　an　old　well　of　still…flowing　water；　at　which　the　Tomsons　and　the　Hiltons　and　their　comrades　slaked　their　thirst　more　than　two　hundred　and　sixty　years　ago。　Oriorne's　Point　is　owned　by　Mr。　Eben　L。　Odiorne；　a　lineal　descendant　of　the　worthy　who　held　the　property　in　1657。　Not　far　from　the　old　spring　is　the　resting…place　of　the　earliest　pioneers。

〃This　first　cemetery　of　the　white　man　in　New　Hampshire；〃　writes　Mr。　Brewster；　（1。　Mr。　Charles　W。　Brewster；　for　nearly　fifty　years　the　editor　of　the　Portsmouth　Journal；　and　the　author　of　two　volumes　of　local　sketches　to　which　the　writer　of　these　pages　here　acknowledges　his　indebtedness。）　〃occupies　a　space　of　perhaps　one　hundred　feet　by　ninety；　and　is　well　walled　in。　　The　western　side　is　now　used　as　a　burial…place　for　the　family；　but　two　thirds　of　it　is　filled　with　perhaps　forty　graves；　indicated　by　rough　head　and　foot　stones。　Who　there　rest　no　one　now　living　knows。　But　the　same　care　is　taken　of　their　quiet　beds　as　if　they　were　of　the　proprietor's　own　family。　In　1631　Mason　sent　over　about　eighty　emigrants　many　of　whom　died　in　a　few　years；　and　here　they　were　probably　buried。　　Here　too；　doubtless；　rest　the　remains　of　several　of　those　whose　names　stand　conspicuous　in　our　early　state　records。〃

IV。　A　STROLL　ABOUT　TOWN　（continued）

WHEN　Washington　visited　Portsmouth　in　1789　he　was　not　much　impressed　by　the　architecture　of　the　little　town　that　had　stood　by　him　so　stoutly　in　the　struggle　for　independence。　〃There　are　some　good　houses；〃　he　writes；　in　a　diary　kept　that　year　during　a　tour　through　Connecticut；　Massachusetts；　and　New　Hampshire；　〃　among　which　Colonel　Langdon's　may　be　esteemed　the　first；　but　in　general　they　are　indifferent；　and　almost　entirely　of　wood。　On　wondering　at　this；　as　the　country　is　full　of　stone　and　good　clay　for　bricks；　I　was　told　that　on　account　of　the　fogs　and　damp　they　deemed　them　wholesomer；　and　for　that　reason　preferred　wood　buildings。〃

The　house　of　Colonel　Langdon；　on　Pleasant　Street；　is　an　excellent　sample　of　the　solid　and　dignified　abodes　which　our　great…grandsires　had　the　sense　to　build。　The　art　of　their　construction　seems　to　have　been　a　lost　art　these　fifty　years。　Here　Governor　John　Langdon　resided　from　1782　until　the　time　of　his　death　in　1819a　period　during　which　many　an　illustrious　man　passed　between　those　two　white　pillars　that　support　the　little　balcony　over　the　front　door；　among　the　rest　Louis　Philippe　and　his　brothers；　the　Ducs　de　Montpensie