itinerary of archibishop-第7章

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This　country　sufficiently　abounds　with　grain；　and　if　there　is　any　deficiency；　it　is　amply　supplied　from　the　neighbouring　parts　of　England；　it　is　well　stored　with　pastures；　woods；　and　wild　and　domestic　animals。　　River…fish　are　plentiful；　supplied　by　the　Usk　on　one　side；　and　by　the　Wye　on　the　other；　each　of　them　produces　salmon　and　trout；　but　the　Wye　abounds　most　with　the　former；　the　Usk　with　the　latter。　　The　salmon　of　the　Wye　are　in　season　during　the　winter；　those　of　the　Usk　in　summer；　but　the　Wye　alone　produces　the　fish　called　umber；　｛51｝　the　praise　of　which　is　celebrated　in　the　works　of　Ambrosius；　as　being　found　in　great　numbers　in　the　rivers　near　Milan；　〃What；〃　says　he；　〃is　more　beautiful　to　behold；　more　agreeable　to　smell；　or　more　pleasant　to　taste？〃　　The　famous　lake　of　Brecheinoc　supplies　the　country　with　pike；　perch；　excellent　trout；　tench；　and　eels。　　A　circumstance　concerning　this　lake；　which　happened　a　short　time　before　our　days；　must　not　be　passed　over　in　silence。　　〃In　the　reign　of　king　Henry　I。；　Gruffydd；　｛52｝　son　of　Rhys　ap　Tewdwr；　held　under　the　king　one　comot；　namely；　the　fourth　part　of　the　cantred　of　Caoc；　｛53｝　in　the　cantref　Mawr；　which；　in　title　and　dignity；　was　esteemed　by　the　Welsh　equal　to　the　southern　part　of　Wales；　called　Deheubarth；　that　is；　the　right…hand　side　of　Wales。　　When　Gruffydd；　on　his　return　from　the　king's　court；　passed　near　this　lake；　which　at　that　cold　season　of　the　year　was　covered　with　water…fowl　of　various　sorts；　being　accompanied　by　Milo；　earl　of　Hereford；　and　lord　of　Brecheinoc；　and　Payn　Fitz…John；　lord　of　Ewyas；　who　were　at　that　time　secretaries　and　privy　counsellors　to　the　king；　earl　Milo；　wishing　to　draw　forth　from　Gruffydd　some　discourse　concerning　his　innate　nobility；　rather　jocularly　than　seriously　thus　addressed　him：　　〃It　is　an　ancient　saying　in　Wales；　that　if　the　natural　prince　of　the　country；　coming　to　this　lake；　shall　order　the　birds　to　sing；　they　will　immediately　obey　him。〃　　To　which　Gruffydd；　richer　in　mind　than　in　gold；　（for　though　his　inheritance　was　diminished；　his　ambition　and　dignity　still　remained）；　answered；　〃Do　you　therefore；　who　now　hold　the　dominion　of　this　land；　first　give　the　command；〃　but　he　and　Payn　having　in　vain　commanded；　and　Gruffydd；　perceiving　that　it　was　necessary　for　him　to　do　so　in　his　turn；　dismounted　from　his　horse；　and　falling　on　his　knees　towards　the　east；　as　if　he　had　been　about　to　engage　in　battle；　prostrate　on　the　ground；　with　his　eyes　and　hands　uplifted　to　heaven；　poured　forth　devout　prayers　to　the　Lord：　at　length；　rising　up；　and　signing　his　face　and　forehead　with　the　figure　of　the　cross；　he　thus　openly　spake：　　〃Almighty　God；　and　Lord　Jesus　Christ；　who　knowest　all　things；　declare　here　this　day　thy　power。　　If　thou　hast　caused　me　to　descend　lineally　from　the　natural　princes　of　Wales；　I　command　these　birds　in　thy　name　to　declare　it；〃　and　immediately　the　birds；　beating　the　water　with　their　wings；　began　to　cry　aloud；　and　proclaim　him。　　The　spectators　were　astonished　and　confounded；　and　earl　Milo　hastily　returning　with　Payn　Fitz…John　to　court；　related　this　singular　occurrence　to　the　king；　who　is　said　to　have　replied；　〃By　the　death　of　Christ　（an　oath　he　was　accustomed　to　use）；　it　is　not　a　matter　of　so　much　wonder；　for　although　by　our　great　authority　we　commit　acts　of　violence　and　wrong　against　these　people；　yet　they　are　known　to　be　the　rightful　inheritors　of　this　land。〃

The　lake　also　｛54｝　（according　to　the　testimony　of　the　inhabitants）　is　celebrated　for　its　miracles；　for；　as　we　have　before　observed；　it　sometimes　assumed　a　greenish　hue；　so　in　our　days　it　has　appeared　to　be　tinged　with　red；　not　universally；　but　as　if　blood　flowed　partially　through　certain　veins　and　small　channels。　　Moreover　it　is　sometimes　seen　by　the　inhabitants　covered　and　adorned　with　buildings；　pastures；　gardens；　and　orchards。　　In　the　winter；　when　it　is　frozen　over；　and　the　surface　of　the　water　is　converted　into　a　shell　of　ice；　it　emits　a　horrible　sound　resembling　the　moans　of　many　animals　collected　together；　but　this；　perhaps；　may　be　occasioned　by　the　sudden　bursting　of　the　shell；　and　the　gradual　ebullition　of　the　air　through　imperceptible　channels。　　This　country　is　well　sheltered　on　every　side　（except　the　northern）　by　high　mountains；　on　the　western　by　those　of　cantref　Bychan；　｛55｝　on　the　southern；　by　that　range；　of　which　the　principal　is　Cadair　Arthur；　｛56｝　or　the　chair　of　Arthur；　so　called　from　two　peaks　rising　up　in　the　form　of　a　chair；　and　which；　from　its　lofty　situation；　is　vulgarly　ascribed　to　Arthur；　the　most　distinguished　king　of　the　Britons。　　A　spring　of　water　rises　on　the　summit　of　this　mountain；　deep；　but　of　a　square　shape；　like　a　well；　and　although　no　stream　runs　from　it；　trout　are　said　to　be　sometimes　found　in　it。

Being　thus　sheltered　on　the　south　by　high　mountains；　the　cooler　breezes　protect　this　district　from　the　heat　of　the　sun；　and；　by　their　natural　salubrity；　render　the　climate　most　temperate。　　Towards　the　east　are　the　mountains　of　Talgarth　and　Ewyas。　｛57｝　　The　natives　of　these　parts；　actuated　by　continual　enmities　and　implacable　hatred；　are　perpetually　engaged　in　bloody　contests。　　But　we　leave　to　others　to　describe　the　great　and　enormous　excesses；　which　in　our　time　have　been　here　committed；　with　regard　to　marriages；　divorces；　and　many　other　circumstances　of　cruelty　and　oppression。



CHAPTER　III



Ewyas　and　Llanthoni


In　the　deep　vale　of　Ewyas；　｛58｝　which　is　about　an　arrow…shot　broad；　encircled　on　all　sides　by　lofty　mountains；　stands　the　church　of　Saint　John　the　Baptist；　covered　with　lead；　and　built　of　wrought　stone；　and；　considering　the　nature　of　the　place；　not　unhandsomely　constructed；　on　the　very　spot　where　the　humble　chapel　of　David；　the　archbishop；　had　formerly　stood　decorated　only　with　moss　and　ivy。　　A　situation　truly　calculated　for　religion；　and　more　adapted　to　canonical　discipline；　than　all　the　monasteries　of　the　British　isle。　It　was　founded　by　two　hermits；　in　honour　of　the　retired　life；　far　removed　from　the　bustle　of　mankind；　in　a　solitary　vale　watered　by　the　river　Hodeni。　　From　Hodeni　it　was　called　Lanhodeni；　for　Lan　signifies　an　ecclesiastical　place。　　This　derivation　may　appear　far…　fetched；　for　the　name　of　the　place；　in　Welsh；　is　Nanthodeni。　　Nant　signifies　a　running　stream；　from　whence　this　place　is　still　called　by　the　inhabitants　Landewi　Nanthodeni；　｛59｝　or　the　church　of　Saint　David　upon　the　river　Hodeni。　　The　English　therefore　corruptly　call　it　Lanthoni；　whereas　it　should　either　be　called　Nanthodeni；　that　is；　the　brook　of　the　Hodeni；　or　Lanhodeni；　the　church　upon　the　Hodeni。　Owing　to　its　mountainous　situation；　the　rains　are　frequent；　the　winds　boisterous；　and　the　clouds　in　winter　almost　continual。　　The　air；　though　heavy；　is　healthy；　and　diseases　are　so　rare；　that　the　brotherhood；　when　worn　out　by　long　toil　and　affliction　during　their　residence　with　the　daughter；　retiring　to　this　asylum；　and　to　their　mother's　｛60｝　lap；　soon　regain　their　long…wished…for　health。　　For　as　my　Topographical　History　of　Ireland　testifies；　in　proportion　as　we　proceed　to　the　eastward；　the　face　of　the　sky　is　more　pure　and　subtile；　and　the　air　more　piercing　and　inclement；　but　as　we　draw　nearer　to　the　westward；　the　air　becomes　more　cloudy；　but　at　the　same　time　is　more　temperate　and　healthy。　　Here　the　monks；　sitting　in　their　cloisters；　enjoying　the　fresh　air；　when　they　happen　to　look　up　towards　the　horizon；　behold　the　tops　of　the　mountains；　as　it　were；　touching　the　heavens；　and　herds　of　wild　deer　feeding　on　their　summits：　　the　body　of　the　sun　does　not　become　visible　above　the　heights　of　the　mountains；　even　in　a　clear　atmosphere；　till　about　the　hour　of　prime；　or　a　little　before。　　A　place　truly　fitted　for　contemplation；　a　happy　and　delightful　spot；　fully　competent；　from　its　first　establishment；　to　supply　all　its　own　wants；　had　not　the　extravagance　of　English　luxury；　the　pride　of　a　sumptuous　table；　the　increasing　growth　of　intemperance　and　ingratitude；　added　to　the　negligence　of　its　patrons　and　prelates；　reduced　it　from　freedom　to　servility；　and　if　the　step…daughter；　no　less　enviously　than　odiously；　had　not　supplanted　her　mother。

It　seems　worthy　of　remark；　that　all　the　priors　who　were　hostile　to　this　establishment；　died　by　divine　visitation。　　William；　｛61｝　who　first　despoiled　the　place　of　its　herds　and　storehouses；　being　deposed　by　the　fraternity；　forfeited　his　right　of　sepulture　amongst　the　priors。　　Clement　seemed　to　like　this　place　of　study　and　prayer；　yet；　after　the　example　of　Heli　the　priest；　as　he　neither　reproved　nor　restrained　his　brethren　from　plunder　and　other　offences；　he　died　by　a　paralytic　stroke。　　And　Roger；　who　was　more　an　enemy　to　this　place　than　either　of　his　predecessors；　and　openly　carried　away　every　thing　which　they　had　left　behind；　wholly　robbing　the　church　of　its　books；　ornaments；　and　privileges；　was　also　struck　with　a　paralytic　affection　long　before　his　death；　resigned　his　honours；　and　lingered　out　the　remainder　of　his　days　in　sickness。

In　the　reign　of　king　Henry　I。；　when　the　mother　church　was　as　celebrated　for　her　affluence　as　for　her　sanctity　（two　qualities　which　are　seldom　found　thus　united）；　the　daughter　not　yet　being　in　existence　（and　I　sincerely　wish　she　never　had　been　produced）；　the　fame　of　so　much　religion　attracted　hither　Roger；　bishop　of　Salisbury；　who　was　at　that　time　prime　minister；　for　it　is　virtue　to　love　virtue；　even　in　another　man；　and　a　great　proof　of　innate　goodness　to　show　a　detestation　of　those　vices　which　hitherto　have　not　been　avoided。　　When　he　had　reflected　with　admiration　on　the　nature　of　the　place；　the　solitary　life　of　the　fraternity；　living　in　canonical　obedience；　and　serving　God　without　a　murmur　or　complaint；　he　returned　to　the　king；　and　related　to　him　what　he　thought　most　worthy　of　remark；　and　after　spending　the　greater　part　of　the　day　in　the　praises　of　this　place；　he　finished　his　panegyric　with　these　words：　　〃Why　should　I　say　more？　the　whole　treasure　of　the　king　and　his　kingdom　would　not　be　sufficient　to　build　such　a　cloister。〃　Having　held　the　minds　of　the　king　and　the　court　for　a　long　time　in　suspense　by　this　assertion；　he　at　length　explained　the　enigma；　by　saying　that　he　alluded　to　the　cloister　of　mountains；　by　which　this　church　is　on　every　side　surrounded。　　But　William；　a　knight；　who　first　discovered　this　place；　and　his　companion　Ervistus；　a　priest；　having　heard；　perhaps；　as　it　is　written　in　the　Fathers；　according　to　the　opinion　of　Jerome；　〃that　the　church　of　Christ　decreased　in　virtues　as　it　increased　in　riches；〃　were　accustomed　often　devoutly　to　solicit　the　Lord　that　this　place　might　never　attain　great　possessions。　　They　were　exceedingly　concerned　when　this　religious　foundation　began　to　be　enriched　by　its　first　lord　and　patron；　Hugh　de　Lacy；　｛62｝　and　by　the　lands　and　ecclesiastical　benefices　conferred　upon　it　by　the　bounty　of　others　of　the　faithful：　　from　their　predilection　to　poverty；　they　rejected　many　offers　of　manors　and　churches；　and　being　situated　in　a　wild　spot；　they　would　not　suffer　the　thick　and　wooded　parts　of　the　valley　to　be　cultivated　and　levelled；　lest　they　should　be　tempted　to　recede　from　their　heremitical　mode　of　life。

But　whilst　the　establishment　of　the　mother　church　increased　daily　in　riches　and　endowments；　availing　herself　of　the　hostile　state　of　the　country；　a　rival　daughter　sprang　up　at　Gloucester；　u