unbeaten tracks in japan-第47章

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her　arms　round　her；　to　which　the　woman　responded　by　a　look　of　true
maternal　tenderness　and　a　kiss。　　These　little　creatures；　in　the
absolute　unconsciousness　of　innocence；　with　their　beautiful　faces；
olive…tinted　bodies；all　the　darker；　sad　to　say；　from　dirt；their
perfect　docility；　and　absence　of　prying　curiosity；　are　very
bewitching。　　They　all　wear　silver　or　pewter　ornaments　tied　round
their　necks　by　a　wisp　of　blue　cotton。

Apparently　the　ordinary　infantile　maladies；　such　as　whooping…cough
and　measles；　do　not　afflict　the　Ainos　fatally；　but　the　children
suffer　from　a　cutaneous　affection；　which　wears　off　as　they　reach
the　age　of　ten　or　eleven　years；　as　well　as　from　severe　toothache
with　their　first　teeth。



LETTER　XXXVII（Continued）



Aino　ClothingHoliday　DressDomestic　ArchitectureHousehold
GodsJapanese　CuriosThe　Necessaries　of　LifeClay　SoupArrow
PoisonArrow…TrapsFemale　OccupationsBark　ClothThe　Art　of
Weaving。

Aino　clothing；　for　savages；　is　exceptionally　good。　　In　the　winter
it　consists　of　one；　two；　or　more　coats　of　skins；　with　hoods　of　the
same；　to　which　the　men　add　rude　moccasins　when　they　go　out　hunting。
In　summer　they　wear　kimonos；　or　loose　coats；　made　of　cloth　woven
from　the　split　bark　of　a　forest　tree。　　This　is　a　durable　and
beautiful　fabric　in　various　shades　of　natural　buff；　and　somewhat
resembles　what　is　known　to　fancy　workers　as　〃Panama　canvas。〃　　Under
this　a　skin　or　bark…cloth　vest　may　or　may　not　be　worn。　　The　men
wear　these　coats　reaching　a　little　below　the　knees；　folded　over
from　right　to　left；　and　confined　at　the　waist　by　a　narrow　girdle　of
the　same　cloth；　to　which　is　attached　a　rude；　dagger…shaped　knife；
with　a　carved　and　engraved　wooden　handle　and　sheath。　　Smoking　is　by
no　means　a　general　practice；　consequently　the　pipe　and　tobacco…box
are　not；　as　with　the　Japanese；　a　part　of　ordinary　male　attire。
Tightly…fitting　leggings；　either　of　bark…cloth　or　skin；　are　worn　by
both　sexes；　but　neither　shoes　nor　sandals。　　The　coat　worn　by　the
women　reaches　half…way　between　the　knees　and　ankles；　and　is　quite
loose　and　without　a　girdle。　　It　is　fastened　the　whole　way　up　to　the
collar…bone；　and　not　only　is　the　Aino　woman　completely　covered；　but
she　will　not　change　one　garment　for　another　except　alone　or　in　the
dark。　　Lately　a　Japanese　woman　at　Sarufuto　took　an　Aino　woman　into
her　house；　and　insisted　on　her　taking　a　bath；　which　she　absolutely
refused　to　do　till　the　bath…house　had　been　made　quite　private　by
means　of　screens。　　On　the　Japanese　woman　going　back　a　little　later
to　see　what　had　become　of　her；　she　found　her　sitting　in　the　water
in　her　clothes；　and　on　being　remonstrated　with；　she　said　that　the
gods　would　be　angry　if　they　saw　her　without　clothes！

Many　of　the　garments　for　holiday　occasions　are　exceedingly
handsome；　being　decorated　with　〃geometrical〃　patterns；　in　which　the
〃Greek　fret〃　takes　part；　in　coarse　blue　cotton；　braided　most
dexterously　with　scarlet　and　white　thread。　　Some　of　the　handsomest
take　half　a　year　to　make。　　The　masculine　dress　is　completed　by　an
apron　of　oblong　shape　decorated　in　the　same　elaborate　manner。
These　handsome　savages；　with　their　powerful　physique；　look
remarkably　well　in　their　best　clothes。　　I　have　not　seen　a　boy　or
girl　above　nine　who　is　not　thoroughly　clothed。　　The　〃jewels〃　of　the
women　are　large；　hoop　earrings　of　silver　or　pewter；　with
attachments　of　a　classical　pattern；　and　silver　neck　ornaments；　and
a　few　have　brass　bracelets　soldered　upon　their　arms。　　The　women
have　a　perfect　passion　for　every　hue　of　red；　and　I　have　made
friends　with　them　by　dividing　among　them　a　large　turkey…red　silk
handkerchief；　strips　of　which　are　already　being　utilised　for　the
ornamenting　of　coats。

The　houses　in　the　five　villages　up　here　are　very　good。　　So　they　are
at　Horobets；　but　at　Shiraoi；　where　the　aborigines　suffer　from　the
close　proximity　of　several　grog　shops；　they　are　inferior。　　They
differ　in　many　ways　from　any　that　I　have　before　seen；　approaching
most　nearly　to　the　grass　houses　of　the　natives　of　Hawaii。　　Custom
does　not　appear　to　permit　either　of　variety　or　innovations；　in　all
the　style　is　the　same；　and　the　difference　consists　in　the　size　and
plenishings。　　The　dwellings　seem　ill…fitted　for　a　rigorous　climate；
but　the　same　thing　may　be　said　of　those　of　the　Japanese。　　In　their
houses；　as　in　their　faces；　the　Ainos　are　more　European　than　their
conquerors；　as　they　possess　doorways；　windows；　central　fireplaces；
like　those　of　the　Highlanders　of　Scotland；　and　raised　sleeping…
places。

The　usual　appearance　is　that　of　a　small　house　built　on　at　the　end
of　a　larger　one。　　The　small　house　is　the　vestibule　or　ante…room；
and　is　entered　by　a　low　doorway　screened　by　a　heavy　mat　of　reeds。
It　contains　the　large　wooden　mortar　and　pestle　with　two　ends；　used
for　pounding　millet；　a　wooden　receptacle　for　millet；　nets　or
hunting　gear；　and　some　bundles　of　reeds　for　repairing　roof　or
walls。　　This　room　never　contains　a　window。　　From　it　the　large　room
is　entered　by　a　doorway；　over　which　a　heavy　reed…mat；　bound　with
hide；　invariably　hangs。　　This　room　in　Benri's　case　is　35　feet　long
by　25　feet　broad；　another　is　45　feet　square；　the　smallest　measures
20　feet　by　15。　　On　entering；　one　is　much　impressed　by　the　great
height　and　steepness　of　the　roof；　altogether　out　of　proportion　to
the　height　of　the　walls。

The　frame　of　the　house　is　of　posts；　4　feet　10　inches　high；　placed　4
feet　apart；　and　sloping　slightly　inwards。　　The　height　of　the　walls
is　apparently　regulated　by　that　of　the　reeds；　of　which　only　one
length　is　used；　and　which　never　exceed　4　feet　10　inches。　　The　posts
are　scooped　at　the　top；　and　heavy　poles；　resting　on　the　scoops；　are
laid　along　them　to　form　the　top　of　the　wall。　　The　posts　are　again
connected　twice　by　slighter　poles　tied　on　horizontally。　　The　wall
is　double；　the　outer　part　being　formed　of　reeds　tied　very　neatly　to
the　framework　in　small；　regular　bundles；　the　inner　layer　or　wall
being　made　of　reeds　attached　singly。　　From　the　top　of　the　pole；
which　is　secured　to　the　top　of　the　posts；　the　framework　of　the　roof
rises　to　a　height　of　twenty…two　feet；　made；　like　the　rest；　of　poles
tied　to　a　heavy　and　roughly…hewn　ridge…beam。　　At　one　end　under　the
ridge…beam　there　is　a　large　triangular　aperture　for　the　exit　of
smoke。　　Two　very　stout；　roughly…hewn　beams　cross　the　width　of　the
house；　resting　on　the　posts　of　the　wall；　and　on　props　let　into　the
floor；　and　a　number　of　poles　are　laid　at　the　same　height；　by　means
of　which　a　secondary　roof　formed　of　mats　can　be　at　once
extemporised；　but　this　is　only　used　for　guests。　　These　poles　answer
the　same　purpose　as　shelves。　　Very　great　care　is　bestowed　upon　the
outside　of　the　roof；　which　is　a　marvel　of　neatness　and　prettiness；
and　has　the　appearance　of　a　series　of　frills　being　thatched　in
ridges。　　The　ridge…pole　is　very　thickly　covered；　and　the　thatch
both　there　and　at　the　corners　is　elaborately　laced　with　a　pattern
in　strong　peeled　twigs。　　The　poles；　which；　for　much　of　the　room；
run　from　wall　to　wall；　compel　one　to　stoop；　to　avoid　fracturing
one's　skull；　and　bringing　down　spears；　bows　and　arrows；　arrow…
traps；　and　other　primitive　property。　　The　roof　and　rafters　are
black　and　shiny　from　wood　smoke。　　Immediately　under　them；　at　one
end　and　one　side；　are　small；　square　windows；　which　are　closed　at
night　by　wooden　shutters；　which　during　the　day…time　hang　by　ropes。
Nothing　is　a　greater　insult　to　an　Aino　than　to　look　in　at　his
window。

On　the　left　of　the　doorway　is　invariably　a　fixed　wooden　platform；
eighteen　inches　high；　and　covered　with　a　single　mat；　which　is　the
sleeping…place。　　The　pillows　are　small　stiff　bolsters；　covered　with
ornamental　matting。　　If　the　family　be　large　there　are　several　of
these　sleeping　platforms。　　A　pole　runs　horizontally　at　a　fitting
distance　above　the　outside　edge　of　each；　over　which　mats　are　thrown
to　conceal　the　sleepers　from　the　rest　of　the　room。　　The　inside　half
of　these　mats　is　plain；　but　the　outside；　which　is　seen　from　the
room；　has　a　diamond　pattern　woven　into　it　in　dull　reds　and　browns。
The　whole　floor　is　covered　with　a　very　coarse　reed…mat；　with
interstices　half　an　inch　wide。　　The　fireplace；　which　is　six　feet
long；　is　oblong。　　Above　it；　on　a　very　black　and　elaborate
framework；　hangs　a　very　black　and　shiny　mat；　whose　superfluous　soot
forms　the　basis　of　the　stain　used　in　tattooing；　and　whose　apparent
purpose　is　to　prevent　the　smoke　ascending；　and　to　diffuse　it
equally　throughout　the　room。　　From　this　framework　depends　the　great
cooking…pot；　which　plays　a　most　important　part　in　Aino　economy。

Household　gods　form　an　essential　part　of　the　furnishing　of　every
house。　　In　this　one；　at　the　left　of　the　entrance；　there　are　ten
white　wands；　with　shavings　depending　from　the　upper　end；　stuck　in
the　wall；　another　projects　from　the　window　which　faces　the　sunrise；
and　the　great　goda　white　post；　two　feet　high；　with　spirals　of
shavings　depending　from　the　topis　always　planted　in　the　floor；
near　the　wall；　on　the　left　side；　opposite　the　fire；　between　the
platform　bed　of　the　householder　and　the　low；　broad　shelf　placed
invariably　on　the　same　side；　and　which　is　a　singular　feature　of　all
Aino　houses；　coast　and　mountain；　down　to　the　poorest；　containing；
as　it　does；　Japanese　curios；　many　of　them　very　valuable　objects　of
antique　art；　though　much　destroyed　by　damp　and　dust。　　They　are　true
curiosities　in　the　dwellings　of　these　northern　aborigines；　and　look
almost　solemn　ranged　against　the　wall。　　In　this　house　there　are
twenty…four　lacquered　urns；　or　tea…chests；　or　seats；　each　standing
two　feet　high　on　four　small　legs；　shod　with　engraved　or　filigree
brass。　　Behind　these　are　eight　lacquered　tubs；　and　a　number　of
bowls　and　lacquer　trays；　and　above　are　spears　with　inlaid　handles；
and　fine　Kaga　and　Awata　bowls。　　The　lacquer　is　good；　and　several　of
the　urns　have　daimiyo's　crests　in　gold　upon　them。　　One　urn　and　a
large　covered　bowl　are　beautifully　inlaid　with　Venus'　ear。　　The
great　urns　are　to　be　seen　in　every　house；　and　in　addition　there　are
suits　of　inlaid　armour；　and　swords　with　inlaid　hilts；　engraved
blades；　and　repousse　scabbards；　for　which　a　collector　would　give
almost　anything。　　No　offers；　however　liberal；　can　tempt　them　to
sell　any　of　these　antique　possessions。　　〃They　were　presents；〃　they
say　in　their　low；　musical　voices；　〃they　were　presents　from　those
who　were　kind　to　our　fathers；　no；　we　cannot　sell　them；　they　were
presents。〃　　And　so　gold　lacquer；　and　pearl　inlaying；　and　gold
niello…work；　and　daimiyo's　crests　in　gold；　continue　to　gleam　in　the
smoky　darkness　of　their　huts。　　Some　of　these　things　were　doubtless
gifts　to　their　fathers　when　they　went　to　pay　tribute　to　the
representative　of　the　Shogun　and　the　Prince　of　Matsumae；　soon　after
the　conquest　of　Yezo。　　Others　were　probably　gifts　from　samurai；　who
took　refuge　here　during　the　rebellion；　and　some　must　have　been
obtained　by　barter。　　They　are　the　one　possession　which　they　will
not　barter　for　sake；　and　are　only　parted　with　in　payment　of　fines
at　the　command　of　a　chief；　or　as　the　dower　of　a　girl。

Except　in　the　poorest　houses；　where　the　people　can　only　afford　to
lay　down　a　mat　for　a　guest；　they　cover　the　coarse　mat　with　fine
ones　on　each　side　of　the　fire。　　These　mats　and　the　bark…cloth　are