unbeaten tracks in japan-第6章

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Then　a　modest…looking　girl；　leading　an　ancient　woman　with　badly
inflamed　eyelids　and　paralysed　arms；　rubbed　his　eyelids；　and　then
gently　stroked　the　closed　eyelids　of　the　crone。　　Then　a　coolie；
with　a　swelled　knee；　applied　himself　vigorously　to　Binzuru's　knee；
and　more　gently　to　his　own。　　Remember；　this　is　the　great　temple　of
the　populace；　and　〃not　many　rich；　not　many　noble；　not　many　mighty；〃
enter　its　dim；　dirty；　crowded　halls。　｛5｝

But　the　great　temple　to　Kwan…non　is　not　the　only　sight　of　Asakusa。
Outside　it　are　countless　shrines　and　temples；　huge　stone　Amainu；　or
heavenly　dogs；　on　rude　blocks　of　stone；　large　cisterns　of　stone　and
bronze　with　and　without　canopies；　containing　water　for　the
ablutions　of　the　worshippers；　cast　iron　Amainu　on　hewn　stone
pedestalsa　recent　giftbronze　and　stone　lanterns；　a　stone
prayer…wheel　in　a　stone　post；　figures　of　Buddha　with　the　serene
countenance　of　one　who　rests　from　his　labours；　stone　idols；　on
which　devotees　have　pasted　slips　of　paper　inscribed　with　prayers；
with　sticks　of　incense　rising　out　of　the　ashes　of　hundreds　of
former　sticks　smouldering　before　them；　blocks　of　hewn　stone　with
Chinese　and　Sanskrit　inscriptions；　an　eight…sided　temple　in　which
are　figures　of　the　〃Five　Hundred　Disciples〃　of　Buddha；　a　temple
with　the　roof　and　upper　part　of　the　walls　richly　coloured；　the
circular　Shinto　mirror　in　an　inner　shrine；　a　bronze　treasury
outside　with　a　bell；　which　is　rung　to　attract　the　god's　attention；
a　striking；　five…storied　pagoda；　with　much　red　lacquer；　and　the
ends　of　the　roof…beams　very　boldly　carved；　its　heavy　eaves　fringed
with　wind　bells；　and　its　uppermost　roof　terminating　in　a　graceful
copper　spiral　of　great　height；　with　the　〃sacred　pearl〃　surrounded
by　flames　for　its　finial。　　Near　it；　as　near　most　temples；　is　an
upright　frame　of　plain　wood　with　tablets；　on　which　are　inscribed
the　names　of　donors　to　the　temple；　and　the　amount　of　their　gifts。

There　is　a　handsome　stone…floored　temple　to　the　south…east　of　the
main　building；　to　which　we　were　the　sole　visitors。　　It　is　lofty　and
very　richly　decorated。　　In　the　centre　is　an　octagonal　revolving
room；　or　rather　shrine；　of　rich　red　lacquer　most　gorgeously
ornamented。　　It　rests　on　a　frame　of　carved　black　lacquer；　and　has　a
lacquer　gallery　running　round　it；　on　which　several　richly　decorated
doors　open。　　On　the　application　of　several　shoulders　to　this
gallery　the　shrine　rotates。　　It　is；　in　fact；　a　revolving　library　of
the　Buddhist　Scriptures；　and　a　single　turn　is　equivalent　to　a
single　pious　perusal　of　them。　　It　is　an　exceedingly　beautiful
specimen　of　ancient　decorative　lacquer　work。　　At　the　back　part　of
the　temple　is　a　draped　brass　figure　of　Buddha；　with　one　hand
raiseda　dignified　piece　of　casting。　　All　the　Buddhas　have　Hindoo
features；　and　the　graceful　drapery　and　oriental　repose　which　have
been　imported　from　India　contrast　singularly　with　the　grotesque
extravagances　of　the　indigenous　Japanese　conceptions。　　In　the　same
temple　are　four　monstrously　extravagant　figures　carved　in　wood；
life…size；　with　clawed　toes　on　their　feet；　and　two　great　fangs　in
addition　to　the　teeth　in　each　mouth。　　The　heads　of　all　are
surrounded　with　flames；　and　are　backed　by　golden　circlets。　　They
are　extravagantly　clothed　in　garments　which　look　as　if　they　were
agitated　by　a　violent　wind；　they　wear　helmets　and　partial　suits　of
armour；　and　hold　in　their　right　hands　something　between　a　monarch's
sceptre　and　a　priest's　staff。　　They　have　goggle　eyes　and　open
mouths；　and　their　faces　are　in　distorted　and　exaggerated　action。
One；　painted　bright　red；　tramples　on　a　writhing　devil　painted
bright　pink；　another；　painted　emerald　green；　tramples　on　a　sea…
green　devil；　an　indigo　blue　monster　tramples　on　a　sky…blue　fiend；
and　a　bright　pink　monster　treads　under　his　clawed　feet　a　flesh…
coloured　demon。　　I　cannot　give　you　any　idea　of　the　hideousness　of
their　aspect；　and　was　much　inclined　to　sympathise　with　the　more
innocent…looking　fiends　whom　they　were　maltreating。　　They　occur
very　frequently　in　Buddhist　temples；　and　are　said　by　some　to　be
assistant…torturers　to　Yemma；　the　lord　of　hell；　and　are　called　by
others　〃The　gods　of　the　Four　Quarters。〃

The　temple　grounds　are　a　most　extraordinary　sight。　　No　English　fair
in　the　palmiest　days　of　fairs　ever　presented　such　an　array　of
attractions。　　Behind　the　temple　are　archery　galleries　in　numbers；
where　girls；　hardly　so　modest…looking　as　usual；　smile　and　smirk；
and　bring　straw…coloured　tea　in　dainty　cups；　and　tasteless
sweetmeats　on　lacquer　trays；　and　smoke　their　tiny　pipes；　and　offer
you　bows　of　slender　bamboo　strips；　two　feet　long；　with　rests　for
the　arrows；　and　tiny　cherry…wood　arrows；　bone…tipped；　and　feathered
red；　blue；　and　white；　and　smilingly；　but　quite　unobtrusively；　ask
you　to　try　your　skill　or　luck　at　a　target　hanging　in　front　of　a
square　drum；　flanked　by　red　cushions。　　A　click；　a　boom；　or　a　hardly
audible　〃thud；〃　indicate　the　result。　　Nearly　all　the　archers　were
grown…up　men；　and　many　of　them　spend　hours　at　a　time　in　this
childish　sport。

All　over　the　grounds　booths　with　the　usual　charcoal　fire；　copper
boiler；　iron　kettle　of　curious　workmanship；　tiny　cups；　fragrant
aroma　of　tea；　and　winsome；　graceful　girls；　invite　you　to　drink　and
rest；　and　more　solid　but　less　inviting　refreshments　are　also　to　be
had。　　Rows　of　pretty　paper　lanterns　decorate　all　the　stalls。　　Then
there　are　photograph　galleries；　mimic　tea…gardens；　tableaux　in
which　a　large　number　of　groups　of　life…size　figures　with
appropriate　scenery　are　put　into　motion　by　a　creaking　wheel　of
great　size；　matted　lounges　for　rest；　stands　with　saucers　of　rice；
beans　and　peas　for　offerings　to　the　gods；　the　pigeons；　and　the　two
sacred　horses；　Albino　ponies；　with　pink　eyes　and　noses；　revoltingly
greedy　creatures；　eating　all　day　long　and　still　craving　for　more。
There　are　booths　for　singing　and　dancing；　and　under　one　a
professional　story…teller　was　reciting　to　a　densely　packed　crowd
one　of　the　old；　popular　stories　of　crime。　　There　are　booths　where
for　a　few　rin　you　may　have　the　pleasure　of　feeding　some　very　ugly
and　greedy　apes；　or　of　watching　mangy　monkeys　which　have　been
taught　to　prostrate　themselves　Japanese　fashion。

This　letter　is　far　too　long；　but　to　pass　over　Asakusa　and　its
novelties　when　the　impression　of　them　is　fresh　would　be　to　omit　one
of　the　most　interesting　sights　in　Japan。　　On　the　way　back　we　passed
red　mail　carts　like　those　in　London；　a　squadron　of　cavalry　in
European　uniforms　and　with　European　saddles；　and　the　carriage　of
the　Minister　of　Marine；　an　English　brougham　with　a　pair　of　horses
in　English　harness；　and　an　escort　of　six　troopersa　painful
precaution　adopted　since　the　political　assassination　of　Okubo；　the
Home　Minister；　three　weeks　ago。　　So　the　old　and　the　new　in　this
great　city　contrast　with　and　jostle　each　other。　　The　Mikado　and　his
ministers；　naval　and　military　officers　and　men；　the　whole　of　the
civil　officials　and　the　police；　wear　European　clothes；　as　well　as　a
number　of　dissipated…looking　young　men　who　aspire　to　represent
〃young　Japan。〃　　Carriages　and　houses　in　English　style；　with
carpets；　chairs；　and　tables；　are　becoming　increasingly　numerous；
and　the　bad　taste　which　regulates　the　purchase　of　foreign
furnishings　is　as　marked　as　the　good　taste　which　everywhere
presides　over　the　adornment　of　the　houses　in　purely　Japanese　style。
Happily　these　expensive　and　unbecoming　innovations　have　scarcely
affected　female　dress；　and　some　ladies　who　adopted　our　fashions
have　given　them　up　because　of　their　discomfort　and　manifold
difficulties　and　complications。

The　Empress　on　State　occasions　appears　in　scarlet　satin　hakama；　and
flowing　robes；　and　she　and　the　Court　ladies　invariably　wear　the
national　costume。　　I　have　only　seen　two　ladies　in　European　dress；
and　this　was　at　a　dinner…party　here；　and　they　were　the　wives　of　Mr。
Mori；　the　go…ahead　Vice…Minister　for　Foreign　Affairs；　and　of　the
Japanese　Consul　at　Hong　Kong；　and　both　by　long　residence　abroad
have　learned　to　wear　it　with　ease。　　The　wife　of　Saigo；　the　Minister
of　Education；　called　one　day　in　an　exquisite　Japanese　dress　of
dove…coloured　silk　crepe；　with　a　pale　pink　under…dress　of　the　same
material；　which　showed　a　little　at　the　neck　and　sleeves。　　Her
girdle　was　of　rich　dove…coloured　silk；　with　a　ghost　of　a　pale　pink
blossom　hovering　upon　it　here　and　there。　　She　had　no　frills　or
fripperies　of　any　description；　or　ornaments；　except　a　single　pin　in
her　chignon；　and；　with　a　sweet　and　charming　face；　she　looked　as
graceful　and　dignified　in　her　Japanese　costume　as　she　would　have
looked　exactly　the　reverse　in　ours。　　Their　costume　has　one　striking
advantage　over　ours。　　A　woman　is　perfectly　CLOTHED　if　she　has　one
garment　and　a　girdle　on；　and　perfectly　DRESSED　if　she　has　two。
There　is　a　difference　in　features　and　expressionmuch　exaggerated；
however；　by　Japanese　artistsbetween　the　faces　of　high…born　women
and　those　of　the　middle　and　lower　classes。　　I　decline　to　admire
fat…faces；　pug　noses；　thick　lips；　long　eyes；　turned　up　at　the　outer
corners；　and　complexions　which　owe　much　to　powder　and　paint。　　The
habit　of　painting　the　lips　with　a　reddish…yellow　pigment；　and　of
heavily　powdering　the　face　and　throat　with　pearl　powder；　is　a
repulsive　one。　　But　it　is　hard　to　pronounce　any　unfavourable
criticism　on　women　who　have　so　much　kindly　grace　of　manner。　　I。　L。
B。



LETTER　VI



FearsTravelling　EquipmentsPassportsCoolie　CostumeA　Yedo
DioramaRice…FieldsTea…HousesA　Traveller's　ReceptionThe　Inn
at　KasukabeLack　of　PrivacyA　Concourse　of　NoisesA　Nocturnal
AlarmA　Vision　of　PolicemenA　Budget　from　Yedo。

KASUKABE；　June　10。

From　the　date　you　will　see　that　I　have　started　on　my　long　journey；
though　not　upon　the　〃unbeaten　tracks〃　which　I　hope　to　take　after
leaving　Nikko；　and　my　first　evening　alone　in　the　midst　of　this
crowded　Asian　life　is　strange；　almost　fearful。　　I　have　suffered
from　nervousness　all　daythe　fear　of　being　frightened；　of　being
rudely　mobbed；　as　threatened　by　Mr。　Campbell　of　Islay；　of　giving
offence　by　transgressing　the　rules　of　Japanese　politenessof；　I
know　not　what！　　Ito　is　my　sole　reliance；　and　he　may　prove　a　〃broken
reed。〃　　I　often　wished　to　give　up　my　project；　but　was　ashamed　of　my
cowardice　when；　on　the　best　authority；　I　received　assurances　of　its
safety。　｛6｝

The　preparations　were　finished　yesterday；　and　my　outfit　weighed　110
lbs。；　which；　with　Ito's　weight　of　90　lbs。；　is　as　much　as　can　be
carried　by　an　average　Japanese　horse。　　My　two　painted　wicker　boxes
lined　with　paper　and　with　waterproof　covers　are　convenient　for　the
two　sides　of　a　pack…horse。　　I　have　a　folding…chairfor　in　a
Japanese　house　there　is　nothing　but　the　floor　to　sit　upon；　and　not
even　a　solid　wall　to　lean　againstan　air…pillow　for　kuruma
travelling；　an　india…rubber　bath；　sheets；　a　blanket；　and　last；　and
more　important　than　all　else；　a　canvas　stretcher　on　light　poles；
which　can　be　put　together　in　two　minutes；　and　being　2。5　feet　high
is　supposed　to　be　secure　from　fleas。　　The　〃Food　Question〃　has　been
solved　by　a　modified　rejection　of　all　advice！　　I　have　only　brought
a　small　supply　of　Liebig's　extract　of　meat；　4　lbs。　of　raisins；　some
chocolate；　both　for　eating　and　drinking；　and　some　brandy　in　case　of
need。　　I　have　my　own