an autobiography-第29章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


e　following　day　I　visited　some　of　the　factories　where　processes　were　carried　on　in　connection　with　the　Birmingham　trade。　　I　saw　the　mills　where　sheet　brass　and　copper　were　rolled　for　the　purpose　of　being　plated　with　silver。　　There　was　nothing　in　these　processes　of　novel　interest；　though　I　picked　up　many　practical　hints。　　I　could　not　fail　to　be　attracted　by　the　dexterous　and　rapid　manipulation　of　the　work　in　hand；　even　by　boys　and　girls　whose　quick　sight　and　nimble　fingers　were　educated　to　a　high　degree　of　perfection。　I　could　have　spent　a　month　profitably　among　the　vast　variety　of　small　traders　in　metal；　of　which　Birmingham　is　the　headquarters。　Even　in　what　is　called　〃the　toy　trade；〃　I　found　a　vast　amount　of　skill　displayed　in　the　production　of　goldsmith　work；　in　earrings；　brooches；　gold　chains；　rings；　beads；　and　glass　eyes　for　stuffed　birds；　dolls；　and　men。

I　was　especially　attracted　by　Soho；　once　the　famous　manufacturing　establishment　of　Boulton　and　Watt。　　Although　this　was　not　the　birthplace*　＇footnote。。。　The　birthplace　of　the　condensing　engine　of　Watt　was　the　workshop　in　the　Glasgow　University；　where　he　first　contrived　and　used　a　separate　condenserthe　true　and　vital　element　in　Watt's　invention。　The　condenser　afterwards　attained　its　true　effective　manhood　at　Soho　The　Newcomen　engine　was　in　fact　a　condensing　engine；　but　as　the　condensation　was　effected　inside　the　steam　cylinder　it　was　a　very　costly　source　of　power　in　respect　to　steam。　　Watt's　happy　idea　of　condensing　in　a　separate　vessel　removed　the　defect。　　This　was　first　done　in　his　experimental　engine　in　the　Glasgow　University　workshop；　and　before　he　had　made　the　one　at　Kinniel　for　Dr。　Roebuck。　　。。。＇　of　the　condensing　steam…engine　it　was　the　place　where　it　attained　its　full　manhood　of　efficiency；　and　became　the　source　and　origin　of　English　manufacturing　power。　　Watt's　engine　has　had　a　greater　influence　on　the　productive　arts　of　mankind　than　any　other　that　can　be　named。　　Boulton　also　was　a　thorough　man　of　business；　without　whom；　perhaps；　Watt　could　never　have　made　his　way　against　the　world；　or　perfected　his　magnificent　invention。　　Not　less　interesting　to　my　mind　was　the　memory　of　that　incomparable　mechanic；　　William　Murdoch；　a　man　of　indomitable　energy；　and　Watt's　right…hand　man　in　the　highest　practical　sense。　　Murdoch　was　the　inventor　of　the　first　model　locomotive；　and　the　inventor　of　gas　for　lighting　purposes；　and　yet　he　always　kept　himself　in　the　background；　for　he　was　excessively　modest。　He　was　happiest　when　he　could　best　promote　the　welfare　of　the　great　house　of　Boulton　and　Watt。　　Indeed　he　was　a　man　whose　memory　ought　to　be　held　in　the　highest　regard　by　all　true　engineers　and　mechanics。

The　sight　which　I　obtained　of　the　vast　series　of　workshops　of　this　celebrated　establishmentfilled　with　evidences　of　the　mechanical　genius　of　these　master　mindsmade　me　feel　that　I　was　indeed　on　classic　ground　in　regard　to　everything　connected　with　steam…engine　machinery。　　Some　of　the　engines　designed　by　Wattthe　prototypes　of　the　powerful　condensing　engines　of　the　present　daywere　still　performing　their　daily　quota　of　work。　　There　was　〃Old　Bess；〃　a　sort　of　experimental　engine；　upon　which　Watt　had　tried　many　adaptations　and　alterations；　for　the　purpose　of　suiting　it　for　pumping　water　from　coal　mines。　　There　was　also　the　engine　with　the　sun…and…planet　motion；　an　invention　of　William　Murdoch's。　Both　of　these　engines　were　still　at　work。

I　went　through　the　workshops；　where　I　was　specially　interested　by　seeing　the　action　of　the　machine　tools。　　There　I　observed　Murdoch's　admirable　system　of　transmitting　power　from　one　central　engine　to　other　small　vacuum　engines　attached　to　the　individual　machines　they　were　set　to　work。　　The　power　was　communicated　by　pipes　led　from　the　central　air　or　exhaust　pump　to　small　vacuum　or　atmospheric　engines　devoted　to　the　driving　of　each　separate　machine；　thus　doing　away　with　all　shafting　and　leather　belts；　the　required　speed　being　kept　up　or　modified　at　pleasure　without　in　any　way　interfering　with　the　other　machines。　This　vacuum　method　of　transmitting　power　dates　from　the　time　of　Papin；　but　until　it　received　the　masterly　touch　of　Murdoch　it　remained　a　dead　contrivance　for　more　than　a　century。

I　concluded　my　visits　to　the　workshops　of　Birmingham　by　calling　upon　a　little　known　but　very　ingenious　man；　whose　work　I　had　seen　before　I　left　Edinburgh；　in　a　beautifully　constructed　foot　turning…lathe　made　by　John　Drain。　　I　was　so　much　impressed　with　the　exquisite　design；　execution；　and　completeness　of　the　lathe；　that　I　made　it　one　of　my　chief　objects　to　find　out　John　Drain's　workshop。　　It　was　with　some　difficulty　that　I　found　him。　　He　was　little　known　in　Birmingham。　His　workshops　were　very　small；　they　consisted　of　only　one　or　two　rooms。　His　exquisite　lathes　were　not　much　in　demand。　　They　found　their　way　chiefly　to　distant　parts　of　the　country；　where　they　were　highly　esteemed。

I　found　that　he　had　some　exquisitely　finished　lathes　completed　and　in　hand　for　engraving　the　steel　plates　for　printing　bank　notes。　　They　were　provided　with　the　means　of　producing　such　intricate　ornamental　patterns　as　to　defy　the　utmost　skill　of　the　forger。　　Perkins　had　done　a　good　deal　in　the　same　way；　but　Drain's　exquisite　mechanism　enabled　his　engraving　lathes　to　surpass　anything　that　had　before　been　attempted　in　the　same　line。　　I　believe　that　Drain's　earnest　attention　to　his　work；　in　which　he　had　little　or　no　assistance；　undermined　his　health；　and　arrested　the　career　of　one　who；　had　he　lived；　would　have　attained　the　highest　position　in　his　profession。　　I　shall　never　forget　the　rare　treat　which　his　fine　mechanism　afforded　me。　　Its　prominent　quality　was　absolute　truth　and　accuracy　in　every　part。

Having　now　had　enough　of　the　Black　Country　and　of　Birmingham　workshops；　I　proceeded　towards　London。　　There　were　no　more　manufacturing　districts　to　be　visited。　　Everything　now　was　to　be　green　lanes；　majestic　trees；　old　mansions；　venerable　castles；　and　picturesque　scenery。　　There　is　no　way　of　seeing　a　country　properly　except　on　foot。　　By　railway　you　whiz　past　and　see　nothing。　　Even　by　coach　the　best　parts　of　the　scenery　are　unseen。　　〃Shank's　naig〃　is　the　best　of　all　methods；　provided　you　have　time。　　I　had　still　some　days　to　spare　before　the　conclusion　of　my　holiday。　　I　therefore　desired　to　see　some　of　the　beautiful　scenery　and　objects　of　antiquarian　interest　before　returning　to　work。

I　made　my　way　across　country　to　Kenilworth。　　The　weather　was　fine；　and　the　walk　was　perfect。　　The　wayside　was　bordered　by　grassy　sward。　Wide　and　irregular　margins　extended　on　each　side　of　the　road；　and　noble　trees　and　untrinnned　hedges；　in　their　glowing　autumnal　tint；　extended　far　and　wide。　　Everything　was　in　the　most　gloriously　neglected　and　therefore　highly　picturesque　condition。　　Here　and　there　old　farmhouses　and　labourers'　cottages　peeped　up　from　amidst　the　trees　and　hedges　worthy　of　the　landscape　painter's　highest　skill。

I　reached　Kenilworth　about　half　an　hour　before　sunset。　　I　made　my　way　direct　to　the　castle；　glorious　in　its　decay。　　The　fine　mellow　glow　of　the　setting　sun　lit　up　the　grand　and　extensive　ruins。　　The　massive　Norman　keep　stood　up　with　melancholy　dignity；　and　attracted　my　attention　more　than　any　other　part　of　the　ruined　building。　　To　me　there　is　an　impressiveness　in　the　simple　massive　dignity　of　the　Norman　castles　and　cathedrals；　which　no　other　buildings　possess。　There　is　an　expression　of　terrible　earnestness　about　them。　　The　last　look　I　had　of　the　Norman　keep　was　grand。　　The　elevated　part　was　richly　tinted　with　the　last　glow　of　the　setting　sun；　while　the　outline　of　the　buildings　beneath　was　shaded　by　a　dark　purply　gray。　　It　was　indeed　a　sight　never　to　be　forgotten。　　I　waited　until　the　sun　had　descended　beneath　the　horizon；　still　leaving　its　glimmer　of　pink　and　crimson　and　gray；　and　then　I　betook　me　to　the　little　inn　in　the　village；　where　I　obtained　comfortable　quarters　for　the　night。　　I　visited　the　ruins　again　in　the　morning。　　Although　the　glory　of　the　previous　evening　had　departed；　I　was　much　interested　in　observing　the　various　styles　of　architecture　adopted　in　different　parts　of　the　buildingssome　old；　some　comparatively　new。　　I　found　the　older　more　grand　and　massive；　and　the　newer；　of　the　sixteenth　century；　wanting　in　dignity　of　design；　and　the　workmanship　very　inferior。　　The　reign　of　Shoddy　had　already　begun　before　Cromwell　laid　the　castle　in　ruins。

In　the　course　of　the　day　I　proceeded　to　Warwick。　　I　passed　along　the　same　delightful　grass…bordered　roads；　shaded　by　noble　trees。　　I　reached　the　grand　old　town；　with　its　antique　buildings　and　its　noble　castle　so　famous　in　English　history。　　Leaving　the　place　with　reluctance；　I　left　it　late　in　the　afternoon　to　trudge　on　to　Oxford。　But　soon　after　I　started　the　rain　began　to　fall。　　It　was　the　first　interruption　to　my　walking　journey　which　I　had　encountered　during　my　three　weeks'　absence　from　London。　　As　it　appeared　from　the　dark　clouds　overhead　that　a　wet　night　had　set　in；　I　took　shelter　in　a　wayside　inn　at　a　place　called　Steeple　Aston。　　My　clothes　were　dripping　wet；　and　after　a　glass　of　very　hot　rum　and　water　I　went　to　bed；　and　had　a　sound　sleep。　　Next　morning　it　was　fair　and　bright。　　After　a　substantial　homely　breakfast　I　set　out　again。　　Nature　was　refreshed　by　the　steady　rain　of　the　previous　night；　and　the　day　was　beautiful。　　I　reached　Deddington　and　stayed　there　for　the　night；　and　early　next　morning　I　set　out　for　Oxford。

I　was　greatly　excited　by　the　first　sight　I　had　of　the　crowd　of　towers　and　spires　of　that　learned　and　illustrious　city。　　Nor　were　my　expectations　at　all　disappointed　by　a　nearer　approach　to　the　colleges　of　Oxford。　　After　a　most　interesting　visit　to　the　best　of　the　buildings；　I　took　in　a；　fair　idea　of　the　admirable　details　of　this　noble　city；　and　left　in　the　afternoon　of　next　day。　　I　visited；　on　my　way　to　Thame；　the　old　church　of　Iffley。　　I　was　attracted　to　it　by　the　fine　old　Norman　work　it　contains；　which　I　found　most　quaint　and　picturesque。

I　slept　at　Thame　for　the　night；　and　next　day　walked　to　Windsor。　I　arrived　there　at　sunset；　and　had　a　fine　view　of　the　exterior　of　the　castle　and　the　surrounding　buildings。　　I　was；　however；　much　disappointed　on　examining　the　architectural　details。　　In　sight　of　the　noble　trees　about　the　castle；　and　the　magnificent　prospect　from　the　terrace；　I　saw　much　that　tended　to　make　up　for　the　disgust　I　felt　at　the　way　in　which　all　that　was　so　appropriate　and　characteristic　in　so　historic　a　place　as　Windsor　Castle　should　have　been　tampered　with　and　rubbed　out　by　the　wretched　conceit　of　the　worst　architects　of　our　worst　architectural　period。

I　left　Windsor　next　morning；　and　walked　direct　for　London。　　My　time　was　up；　but　not　my　money。　　I　had　taken　eight　sovereigns　on　setting　out　from　London　to　Liverpool　by　coach；　and　I　brought　one　sovereign　back　with　me。　Rather　than　break　into　it　I　walked　all　the　way　from　Windsor　to　London　without　halting　for　refreshment　my　entire　expenditure　during　my　three　weeks'　journey　was　thus　seven　pounds。

When　I　look　back　upon　that　tour；　I　feel　that　I　was　amply　rewarded。　It　was　throughout　delightful　and　instructive。　　The　remembrance　of　it　is　as　clear　in　my　mind　now　as　if　I　had　performed　the　journey　last　year　instead　of　fifty　years　ago。　　There　are　thousands　of　details　that　pass　before　my