an autobiography-第49章
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ul order and neatness with which the instruments were kept in their magnificent appropriate apartments； each having its appropriate observer proceeding quietly with his allotted special work； with nothing to break the silence but the 〃tick； tack！〃 of the sidereal clockthis was indeed a most impressive sight！ And the kindly companionable manner of the great master of the establishment was in all respects in harmony with the astronomical work which he conducted in this great Temple of the Universe！
Through my friendship with General Wilson I was enabled to extend my acquaintance with many of my countrymen who had been long settled at St。 Petersburg in connection with commercial affairs。 I enjoyed their kind hospitality； and soon found myself quite at home amongst them。 I remained in the city for about two months。 During that time I was constantly about。 The shops； the streets； the houses； the museums； were objects of great interest。 The view of the magnificent buildings along the sides of the quay is very imposing。 Looking from the front of the statue of Peter the Great you observe the long facade of the Admiralty； the column of Alexander； the Winter Palace； and other public buildings。 The Neva flows in front of them in a massive volume of pure water。 On an island opposite stands the citadel。 The whole presents a coup d'oeil of unexampled architectural magnificence。
I was much interested by the shops and their signboards。 The latter were fixed all over the fronts of the shops； and contained a delineation of the goods sold within。 There was no necessity for reading。 The pictorial portraits told their own tale。 They were admirable specimens of what is called still…life pictures； not only as regards the drawing and colouring of each object； but with respect to the grouping； which was in most cases artistic and natural。 Two reasons were given me for this style of artistic sign…painting： one was that many of the people could not read the written words defining the articles sold within； and the other was that the severe and long…continued frosts of the St。 Petersburg winter rendered large shop windows impossible for the proper display of the goods。 Hence the small shop…windows to keep out the cold； and the large painted signboards to display the articles sold inside。
I was also greatly pleased with the manner in which the Russians employ ivy in screening their windows during summer。 Ivy is a beautiful plant； and is capable of forming a most elegant window…screen。 Nothing can be more beautiful than to look through green leaves。 Nearly every window of the ground flat of the houses in St。 Petersburg is thus screened。 The neat manner in which the ivy plants are trained over ornamental forms of cane is quite a study in its way。 And though the ivy is very common； yet a common thing； being a thing of beauty； may be a 〃joy for ever。〃 In the finer and most important mansions； the sides of the flight of wide steps that lead up to the reception rooms were beautifully decorated by oleander plants； growing in great vigour； with their fine flowers as fresh as if in a carefully…kept conservatory。 Other plants of an ornamental kind were mixed with the oleander； but the latter appeared to be the favourite。* ＇footnote。。。 While passing through Lubeck on my way out to St。 Petersburg I was much struck with the taste for flower…plants displayed by the people of that old…world city。 The inner side of the lower house windows were all beautifully decorated with flowers； which were evidently well cared for。 Some of the windows were almost made up with flowers。 Perhaps the long…continued winter of these parts has caused the people to study and practise within…door culture with such marked success。 It is a most elegant pursuit； and should be cultivated everywhere。 It is thoroughly in character with the exquisite cleanliness and tidiness of the houses at Lubeck。 。。。＇
About the end of my visit I was about to call upon one of my customers with reference to my machine tools； for though I pursued pleasure at occasional times； I never lost sight of business。 It was a very dull day； and the streets about the Winter Palace were almost deserted。 I was sitting in my drosky with my roll of drawings resting on my thigh somewhat in the style of a commander…in…chief as represented in the old pictureswhen I noticed a drosky coming out of the gates of the Winter Palace。 I observed that it contained a noble…looking officer in a blue military cloak sitting behind his drosky driver。 My driver instantly took off his hat； and I； quickly following his example； took off my hat and bowed gracefully； keeping my extended hand on the level of my heada real royal salute。 The person was no other than the Emperor Nicholas！ He fixed his pecuniarily fine eyes upon me and gave me one of the grandest military salutes； accompanied； as I thought； with a kindly smile from his magnificent eyes as he passed close by me。
As I had been lunching with a Dutch engineer about half an hour before； and had a glass or two of champagne； this may have had something to do with my daring to give the Emperor； in his own capital； what I was afterwards told was not a bow but a brotherly recognition between potentates； and only by royal usage allowed to be so given；namely； swaying off the hat at arm's length level with the head； so as to infer royal equality； or something of that sort。 When I narrated to some Russian friends what I had done； they told me that I need not be surprised if I received a visit from the chief of police next morning for my daring to salute the Emperor in such a style。 But the Emperor was doubtless more amused than offended； and I never received the expected visit。
To anticipate a little。 Soon afterwards the Emperor sent me a present of a magnificent diamond ring through his ambassador in England Baron Brunnow。 It was also accompanied； as the Baron informed me； with the Emperor's most gracious thanks for the manner in which my steam hammer had driven the piles for his new forts at Cronstadt； which he had seen in full action。 The steam…hammer pile…driver had also been used for driving the piles of the great bridge at Kieff。 I next received an order for one of my largest steam hammers for the Imperial Arsenal； and it was followed by many more。 It is a singular fact； as showing the readiness of the Russian and other foreign Governments to adopt at an early date any mechanical improvement of ascertained utility； that I supplied steam hammers to the Russian Government twelve months before our Admiralty availed themselves of its energetic action。 The French were the first to adopt the invention； thanks to the insight of M。 Bourdon； who had the opportunity of recognising its importance。
Before I leave this part of my subject； I must not omit to mention my friend Mr。 Francis Baird； the zealous son of Sir Charles Baird。 The latter was among the first to establish iron foundries and engine works at St。 Petersburg。 At the time of my visit he was far advanced in years； and unable to attend personally to the very large business which he had established。 But he was nevertheless full of geniality。 He greatly enjoyed the long conversations which he had with me about his friends in Scotland； many of whom I knew。 He also told me about the persons in his employment。 He said that the workmen were all serfs； or the sons of serfs。 The Empress Catherine had given them to him for the purpose of being trained in his engine foundry； and in his sugar refinery； which was another part of the business。 I had rarely seen a more faithful and zealous set of workmen than these Russian serfs。 They were able and skilful； and attached to their employers by some deeper and stronger tie than that of mere money wages。 Indeed； they were treated by Sir Charles Baird and his son with the kindest and most paternal care； and they duly repaid their attachment by their zeal in his service and the excellent quality of their work。
The most important business in hand at the time of my visit to the foundry was the moulding and casting of the magnificent bronze capitals of the grand portico of the Izak Church。 This building is one of the finest in St。 Petersburg。 It is of grand proportions；simple； noble； and massive。 It is built upon a forest of piles。 The walls of the interior are covered with marble。 The malachite columns for the screen are fifty feet high； and exceed everything that has yet been done in that beautiful mineral。 The great dome is of iron covered with gilt copper。 This； as well as the Corinthian capitals of bronze； was manufactured at the foundry of the Bairds。 The tympanum of the four great porticos consisted of colossal groups of alto…relievo figures； many of which were all but entirely detached from the background。 It was a kind of foundry work of the highest order； all the details and processes requiring the greatest care。 To my surprise every one engaged in this gigantic and refined metal work was a serf。 The full…sized plaster models which they used in moulding were executed by a resident French sculptor。 He was a true artist； and of the highest order。 But to see the skilful manner in which these native workmen； drawn from the staff of the Bairds' ordinary foundry workers； performed their duties； was truly surprising。 It would make our best bronze statuary founders wince to be asked to execute such work。 Judging from what I saw of the Russian workmen in this instance； I should say that Russia has a grand future before it。
Having satisfactorily completed all my business arrangements in St。 Petersburg； I prepared to set out homewards。 But as I had some business to transact at Stockholm and Copenhagen I resolved to visit those cities。 I left St。 Petersburg for Stockholm by a small steamer； which touched at Helsingfors and Abo； both in Finland。 The weather was beautiful。 Clear blue shy and bright sunshine by day； and the light prolonged far into the night。 Even in September the duration of the sunshine is so great and the night so short that the air has scarcely time to cool till it gets heated again by the bright morning rays。 Even at twelve at night the sun dips but a little beneath the bright horizon on the north。 The night is so bright in the Abo latitude that one can read the smallest print。
Nothing can be more beautiful than the charming scenery we passed through in our tortuous voyage to Stockholm。 We threaded between the granite islands which crowd the shores of the Baltic。 They are covered with pines； which descend to the water's edge。 We swept them with our paddle…boxes； and dipped their bright green fronds into the perfectly clear sea。 For about two days our course lay through those beautiful small islands。 It seemed like a voyage through fairyland。 And it continued in this exquisite tranquil way until we reached that crowning feature of allthe magnificent city of Stockholm； sleeping； as it were； on the waters of the Malar Lake； and surrounded by noble mountains clad with pines。 With the exception of Edinburgh； Genoa； and Naples； I had never beheld so noble a city with such magnificent surroundings。
I spent but a short time in Stockholm； but quite sufficient to enable me to see much that was grandly beautiful in its neighbourhood。 Lakes； r
