part01-第2章

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is　often　obliged　to　alight；　and　lead　his　horse　up　and　down　the　steep

and　jagged　ascents　and　descents；　resembling　the　broken　steps　of　a

staircase。

　　Sometimes　the　road　winds　along　dizzy　precipices；　without　parapet

to　guard　him　from　the　gulfs　below；　and　then　will　plunge　down　steep；

and　dark；　and　dangerous　declivities。　Sometimes　it　struggles　through

rugged　barrancos；　or　ravines；　worn　by　winter　torrents；　the　obscure

path　of　the　contrabandista；　while；　ever　and　anon；　the　ominous　cross；

the　monument　of　robbery　and　murder；　erected　on　a　mound　of　stones　at

some　lonely　part　of　the　road；　admonishes　the　traveller　that　he　is

among　the　haunts　of　banditti；　perhaps　at　that　very　moment　under　the

eye　of　some　lurking　bandolero。　Sometimes；　in　winding　through　the

narrow　valleys；　he　is　startled　by　a　hoarse　bellowing；　and　beholds

above　him　on　some　green　fold　of　the　mountain　a　herd　of　fierce

Andalusian　bulls；　destined　for　the　combat　of　the　arena。　I　have　felt；

if　I　may　so　express　it；　an　agreeable　horror　in　thus　contemplating；

near　at　hand；　these　terrific　animals；　clothed　with　tremendous

strength；　and　ranging　their　native　pastures　in　untamed　wildness；

strangers　almost　to　the　face　of　man：　they　know　no　one　but　the　solitary

herdsman　who　attends　upon　them；　and　even　he　at　times　dares　not　venture

to　approach　them。　The　low　bellowing　of　these　bulls；　and　their　menacing

aspect　as　they　look　down　from　their　rocky　height；　give　additional

wildness　to　the　savage　scenery。

　　I　have　been　betrayed　unconsciously　into　a　longer　disquisition　than　I

intended　on　the　general　features　of　Spanish　travelling；　but　there　is　a

romance　about　all　the　recollections　of　the　Peninsula　dear　to　the

imagination。

　　As　our　proposed　route　to　Granada　lay　through　mountainous　regions；

where　the　roads　are　little　better　than　mule　paths；　and　said　to　be

frequently　beset　by　robbers；　we　took　due　travelling　precautions。

Forwarding　the　most　valuable　part　of　our　luggage　a　day　or　two　in

advance　by　the　arrieros；　we　retained　merely　clothing　and　necessaries

for　the　journey　and　money　for　the　expenses　of　the　road；　with　a

little　surplus　of　hard　dollars　by　way　of　robber　purse；　to　satisfy

the　gentlemen　of　the　road　should　we　be　assailed。　Unlucky　is　the　too

wary　traveller　who；　having　grudged　this　precaution；　falls　into　their

clutches　empty　handed：　they　are　apt　to　give　him　a　sound　ribroasting

for　cheating　them　out　of　their　dues。　〃Caballeros　like　them　cannot

afford　to　scour　the　roads　and　risk　the　gallows　for　nothing。〃

　　A　couple　of　stout　steeds　were　provided　for　our　own　mounting；　and　a

third　for　our　scanty　luggage　and　the　conveyance　of　a　sturdy　Biscayan

lad；　about　twenty　years　of　age；　who　was　to　be　our　guide；　our　groom；

our　valet；　and　at　all　times　our　guard。　For　the　latter　office　he　was

provided　with　a　formidable　trabuco　or　carbine；　with　which　he

promised　to　defend　us　against　rateros　or　solitary　footpads；　but　as

to　powerful　bands；　like　that　of　the　〃sons　of　Ecija；〃　he　confessed　they

were　quite　beyond　his　prowess。　He　made　much　vainglorious　boast　about

his　weapon　at　the　outset　of　the　journey；　though；　to　the　discredit　of

his　generalship；　it　was　suffered　to　hang　unloaded　behind　his　saddle。

　　According　to　our　stipulations；　the　man　from　whom　we　hired　the　horses

was　to　be　at　the　expense　of　their　feed　and　stabling　on　the　journey；　as

well　as　of　the　maintenance　of　our　Biscayan　squire；　who　of　course　was

provided　with　funds　for　the　purpose；　we　took　care；　however；　to　give

the　latter　a　private　hint；　that；　though　we　made　a　close　bargain　with

his　master；　it　was　all　in　his　favor；　as；　if　he　proved　a　good　man　and

true；　both　he　and　the　horses　should　live　at　our　cost；　and　the　money

provided　for　their　maintenance　remain　in　his　pocket。　This　unexpected

largess；　with　the　occasional　present　of　a　cigar；　won　his　heart

completely。　He　was；　in　truth；　a　faithful；　cheery；　kind…hearted

creature；　as　full　of　saws　and　proverbs　as　that　miracle　of　squires；　the

renowned　Sancho　himself；　whose　name；　by　the　by；　we　bestowed　upon

him；　and　like　a　true　Spaniard；　though　treated　by　us　with　companionable

familiarity；　he　never　for　a　moment；　in　his　utmost　hilarity；

overstepped　the　bounds　of　respectful　decorum。

　　Such　were　our　minor　preparations　for　the　journey；　but　above　all　we

laid　in　an　ample　stock　of　good　humor；　and　a　genuine　disposition　to

be　pleased；　determining　to　travel　in　true　contrabandista　style；　taking

things　as　we　found　them；　rough　or　smooth；　and　mingling　with　all

classes　and　conditions　in　a　kind　of　vagabond　companionship。　It　is

the　true　way　to　travel　in　Spain。　With　such　disposition　and

determination；　what　a　country　is　it　for　a　traveller；　where　the　most

miserable　inn　is　as　full　of　adventure　as　an　enchanted　castle；　and

every　meal　is　in　itself　an　achievement！　Let　others　repine　at　the

lack　of　turnpike　roads　and　sumptuous　hotels；　and　all　the　elaborate

comforts　of　a　country　cultivated　and　civilized　into　tameness　and

commonplace；　but　give　me　the　rude　mountain　scramble；　the　roving；

haphazard；　wayfaring；　the　half　wild；　yet　frank　and　hospitable　manners；

which　impart　such　a　true　game　flavor　to　dear　old　romantic　Spain！

　　Thus　equipped　and　attended；　we　cantered　out　of　〃Fair　Seville　city〃

at　half…past　six　in　the　morning　of　a　bright　May　day；　in　company　with　a

lady　and　gentleman　of　our　acquaintance；　who　rode　a　few　miles　with

us；　in　the　Spanish　mode　of　taking　leave。　Our　route　lay　through　old

Alcala　de　Guadaira　（Alcala　on　the　river　Aira）；　the　benefactress　of

Seville；　that　supplies　it　with　bread　and　water。　Here　live　the　bakers

who　furnish　Seville　with　that　delicious　bread　for　which　it　is

renowned；　here　are　fabricated　those　roscas　well　known　by　the

well…merited　appellation　of　pan　de　Dios　（bread　of　God）；　with　which；　by

the　way；　we　ordered　our　man；　Sancho；　to　stock　his　alforjas　for　the

journey。　Well　has　this　beneficent　little　city　been　denominated　the

〃Oven　of　Seville〃；　well　has　it　been　called　Alcala　de　los　Panaderos

（Alcala　of　the　bakers）；　for　a　great　part　of　its　inhabitants　are　of

that　handicraft；　and　the　highway　hence　to　Seville　is　constantly

traversed　by　lines　of　mules　and　donkeys　laden　with　great　panniers　of

loaves　and　roscas。

　　I　have　said　Alcala　supplies　Seville　with　water。　Here　are　great　tanks

or　reservoirs；　of　Roman　and　Moorish　construction；　whence　water　is

conveyed　to　Seville　by　noble　aqueducts。　The　springs　of　Alcala　are

almost　as　much　vaunted　as　its　ovens；　and　to　the　lightness；

sweetness；　and　purity　of　its　water　is　attributed　in　some　measure　the

delicacy　of　its　bread。

　　Here　we　halted　for　a　time；　at　the　ruins　of　the　old　Moorish　castle；　a

favorite　resort　for　picnic　parties　from　Seville；　where　we　had　passed

many　a　pleasant　hour。　The　walls　are　of　great　extent；　pierced　with

loopholes；　inclosing　a　huge　square　tower　or　keep；　with　the　remains

of　masmoras；　or　subterranean　granaries。　The　Guadaira　winds　its

stream　round　the　hill；　at　the　foot　of　these　ruins；　whimpering　among

reeds；　rushes；　and　pond…lilies；　and　overhung　with　rhododendron；

eglantine；　yellow　myrtle；　and　a　profusion　of　wild　flowers　and　aromatic

shrubs；　while　along　its　banks　are　groves　of　oranges；　citrons；　and

pomegranates；　among　which　we　heard　the　early　note　of　the　nightingale。

　　A　picturesque　bridge　was　thrown　across　the　little　river；　at　one

end　of　which　was　the　ancient　Moorish　mill　of　the　castle；　defended　by　a

tower　of　yellow　stone；　a　fisherman's　net　hung　against　the　wall　to　dry；

and　hard　by　in　the　river　was　his　boat；　a　group　of　peasant　women　in

bright…colored　dresses；　crossing　the　arched　bridge；　were　reflected

in　the　placid　stream。　Altogether　it　was　an　admirable　scene　for　a

landscape　painter。

　　The　old　Moorish　mills；　so　often　found　on　secluded　streams；　are

characteristic　objects　in　Spanish　landscape；　and　suggestive　of　the

perilous　times　of　old。　They　are　of　stone；　and　often　in　the　form　of

towers　with　loopholes　and　battlements；　capable　of　defence　in　those

warlike　days　when　the　country　on　both　sides　of　the　border　was

subject　to　sudden　inroad　and　hasty　ravage；　and　when　men　had　to　labor

with　their　weapons　at　hand；　and　some　place　of　temporary　refuge。

　　Our　next　halting　place　was　at　Gandul；　where　were　the　remains　of

another　Moorish　castle；　with　its　ruined　tower；　a　nestling　place　for

storks；　and　commanding　a　view　over　a　vast　campina　or　fertile　plain；

with　the　mountains　of　Ronda　in　the　distance。　These　castles　were

strong…holds　to　protect　the　plains　from　the　talas　or　forays　to　which

they　were　subject；　when　the　fields　of　corn　would　be　laid　waste；　the

flocks　and　herds　swept　from　the　vast　pastures；　and；　together　with

captive　peasantry；　hurried　off　in　long　cavalgadas　across　the　borders。

　　At　Gandul　we　found　a　tolerable　posada；　the　good　folks　could　not　tell

us　what　time　of　day　it　was…　the　clock　only　struck　once　in　the　day；　two

hours　after　noon；　until　that　time　it　was　guesswork。　We　guessed　it

was　full　time　to　eat；　so；　alighting；　we　ordered　a　repast。　While　that

was　in　preparation　we　visited　the　palace　once　the　residence　of　the

Marquis　of　Gandul。　All　was　gone　to　decay；　there　were　but　two　or

three　rooms　habitable；　and　very　poorly　furnished。　Yet　here　were　the

remains　of　grandeur：　a　terrace；　where　fair　dames　and　gentle

cavaliers　may　once　have　walked；　a　fish…pond　and　ruined　garden；　with

grape…vines　and　date…bearing　palm…trees。　Here　we　were　joined　by　a

fat　curate；　who　gathered　a　bouquet　of　roses　and　presented　it；　very

gallantly；　to　the　lady　who　accompanied　us。

　　Below　the　palace　was　the　mill；　with　orange…trees　and　aloes　in　front；

and　a　pretty　stream　of　pure　water。　We　took　a　seat　in　the　shade；　and

the　millers；　all　leaving　their　work；　sat　down　and　smoked　with　us；

for　the　Andalusians　are　always　ready　for　a　gossip。　They　were　waiting

for　the　regular　visit　of　the　barber；　who　came　once　a　week　to　put　all

their　chins　in　order。　He　arrived　shortly　afterwards：　a　lad　of

seventeen；　mounted　on　a　donkey；　eager　to　display　his　new　alforjas　or

saddle…bags；　just　bought　at　a　fair；　price　one　dollar；　to　be　paid　on

St。　John's　day　（in　June）；　by　which　time　he　trusted　to　have　mown　beards

enough　to　put　him　in　funds。

　　By　the　time　the　laconic　clock　of　the　castle　had　struck　two　we　had

finished　our　dinner。　So；　taking　leave　of　our　Seville　friends；　and

leaving　the　millers　still　under　the　hands　of　the　barber；　we　set　off　on

our　ride　across　the　campina。　It　was　one　of　those　vast　plains；　common

in　Spain；　where　for　miles　and　miles　there　is　neither　house　nor　tree。

Unlucky　the　traveller　who　has　to　traverse　it；　exposed　as　we　were　to

heavy　and　repeated　showers　of　rain。　There　is　no　escape　nor　shelter。

Our　only　protection　was　our　Spanish　cloaks；　which　nearly　covered　man

and　horse；　but　grew　heavier　every　mile。　By　the　time　we　had　lived

through　one　shower　we　would　see　another　slowly　but　inevitably

approaching；　fortunately　in　the　interval　there　would　be　an　outbreak　of

bright；　warm；　Andalusian　sunshine；　which　would　make　our　cloaks　send　up

wreaths　of　steam；　but　which　partially　dried　them　before　the　next

drenching。