part01-第3章

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wreaths　of　steam；　but　which　partially　dried　them　before　the　next

drenching。

　　Shortly　after　sunset　we　arrived　at　Arahal；　a　little　town　among　the

hills。　We　found　it　in　a　bustle　with　a　party　of　miquelets；　who　were

patrolling　the　country　to　ferret　out　robbers。　The　appearance　of

foreigners　like　ourselves　was　an　unusual　circumstance　in　an　interior

country　town；　and　little　Spanish　towns　of　the　kind　are　easily　put　in　a

state　of　gossip　and　wonderment　by　such　an　occurrence。　Mine　host；

with　two　or　three　old　wiseacre　comrades　in　brown　Cloaks；　studied　our

passports　in　a　corner　of　the　posada；　while　an　Alguazil　took　notes　by

the　dim　light　of　a　lamp。　The　passports　were　in　foreign　languages　and

perplexed　them；　but　our　Squire　Sancho　assisted　them　in　their

studies；　and　magnified　our　importance　with　the　grandiloquence　of　a

Spaniard。　In　the　mean　time　the　magnificent　distribution　of　a　few

cigars　had　won　the　hearts　of　all　around　us；　in　a　little　while　the

whole　community　seemed　put　in　agitation　to　make　us　welcome。　The

corregidor　himself　waited　upon　us；　and　a　great　rush…bottomed　arm…chair

was　ostentatiously　bolstered　into　our　room　by　our　landlady；　for　the

accommodation　of　that　important　personage。　The　commander　of　the　patrol

took　supper　with　us…　a　lively；　talking；　laughing　Andaluz；　who　had　made

a　campaign　in　South　America；　and　recounted　his　exploits　in　love　and

war　with　much　pomp　of　phrase；　vehemence　of　gesticulation；　and

mysterious　rolling　of　the　eye。　He　told　us　that　he　had　a　list　of　all

the　robbers　in　the　country；　and　meant　to　ferret　out　every　mother's　son

of　them；　he　offered　us　at　the　same　time　some　of　his　soldiers　as　an

escort。　〃One　is　enough　to　protect　you；　senores；　the　robbers　know　me；

and　know　my　men；　the　sight　of　one　is　enough　to　spread　terror　through　a

whole　sierra。〃　We　thanked　him　for　his　offer；　but　assured　him；　in　his

own　strain；　that　with　the　protection　of　our　redoubtable　squire；

Sancho；　we　were　not　afraid　of　all　the　ladrones　of　Andalusia。

　　While　we　were　supping　with　our　Drawcansir　friend；　we　heard　the　notes

of　a　guitar；　and　the　click　of　castanets；　and　presently　a　chorus　of

voices　singing　a　popular　air。　In　fact　mine　host　had　gathered

together　the　amateur　singers　and　musicians；　and　the　rustic　belles　of

the　neighborhood；　and；　on　going　forth；　the　courtyard　or　patio　of　the

inn　presented　a　scene　of　true　Spanish　festivity。　We　took　our　seats

with　mine　host　and　hostess　and　the　commander　of　the　patrol；　under　an

archway　opening　into　the　court；　the　guitar　passed　from　hand　to　hand；

but　a　jovial　shoemaker　was　the　Orpheus　of　the　place。　He　was　a

pleasant…looking　fellow；　with　huge　black　whiskers；　his　sleeves　were

rolled　up　to　his　elbows。　He　touched　the　guitar　with　masterly　skill；

and　sang　a　little　amorous　ditty　with　an　expressive　leer　at　the

women；　with　whom　he　was　evidently　a　favorite。　He　afterwards　danced　a

fandango　with　a　buxom　Andalusian　damsel；　to　the　great　delight　of　the

spectators。　But　none　of　the　females　present　could　compare　with　mine

host's　pretty　daughter；　Pepita；　who　had　slipped　away　and　made　her

toilette　for　the　occasion；　and　had　covered　her　head　with　roses；　and

who　distinguished　herself　in　a　bolero　with　a　handsome　young　dragoon。

We　ordered　our　host　to　let　wine　and　refreshment　circulate　freely　among

the　company；　yet；　though　there　was　a　motley　assembly　of　soldiers；

muleteers；　and　villagers；　no　one　exceeded　the　bounds　of　sober

enjoyment。　The　scene　was　a　study　for　a　painter：　the　picturesque

group　of　dancers；　the　troopers　in　their　half　military　dresses；　the

peasantry　wrapped　in　their　brown　cloaks；　nor　must　I　omit　to　mention

the　old　meagre　Alguazil；　in　a　short　black　cloak；　who　took　no　notice　of

any　thing　going　on；　but　sat　in　a　corner　diligently　writing　by　the

dim　light　of　a　huge　copper　lamp；　that　might　have　figured　in　the　days

of　Don　Quixote。

　　The　following　morning　was　bright　and　balmy；　as　a　May　morning　ought

to　be；　according　to　the　poets。　Leaving　Arahal　at　seven　o'clock；　with

all　the　posada　at　the　door　to　cheer　us　off　we　pursued　our　way

through　a　fertile　country；　covered　with　grain　and　beautifully　verdant；

but　which　in　summer；　when　the　harvest　is　over　and　the　fields　parched

and　brown；　must　be　monotonous　and　lonely；　for；　as　in　our　ride　of

yesterday；　there　were　neither　houses　nor　people　to　be　seen。　The　latter

all　congregate　in　villages　and　strong…holds　among　the　hills；　as　if

these　fertile　plains　were　still　subject　to　the　ravages　of　the　Moor。

　　At　noon　we　came　to　where　there　was　a　group　of　trees；　beside　a

brook　in　a　rich　meadow。　Here　we　alighted　to　make　our　midday　meal。　It

was　really　a　luxurious　spot；　among　wild　flowers　and　aromatic　herbs；

with　birds　singing　around　us。　Knowing　the　scanty　larders　of　Spanish

inns；　and　the　houseless　tracts　we　might　have　to　traverse；　we　had　taken

care　to　have　the　alforjas　of　our　squire　well　stocked　with　cold

provisions；　and　his　bota；　or　leathern　bottle；　which　might　hold　a

gallon；　filled　to　the　neck　with　choice　Valdepenas　wine。*　As　we

depended　more　upon　these　for　our　well…being　than　even　his　trabuco；

we　exhorted　him　to　be　more　attentive　in　keeping　them　well　charged；　and

I　must　do　him　the　justice　to　say　that　his　namesake；　the

trencher…loving　Sancho　Panza；　was　never　a　more　provident　purveyor。

Though　the　alforjas　and　the　bota　were　frequently　and　vigorously

assailed　throughout　the　journey；　they　had　a　wonderful　power　of

repletion；　our　vigilant　squire　sacking　every　thing　that　remained

from　our　repasts　at　the　inns；　to　supply　these　junketings　by　the

road…side；　which　were　his　delight。



　　*　It　may　be　as　well　to　note　here；　that　the　alforjas　are　square

pockets　at　each　end　of　a　long　cloth　about　a　foot　and　a　half　wide；

formed　by　turning　up　its　extremities。　The　cloth　is　then　thrown　over

the　saddle；　and　the　pockets　hang　on　each　side　like　saddle…bags。　It

is　an　Arab　invention。　The　bota　is　a　leathern　bag　or　bottle；　of

portly　dimensions；　with　a　narrow　neck。　It　is　also　oriental。　Hence

the　scriptural　caution；　which　perplexed　me　in　my　boyhood；　not　to　put

new　wine　into　old　bottles。



　　On　the　present　occasion　he　spread　quite　a　sumptuous　variety　of

remnants　on　the　green…sward　before　us；　graced　with　an　excellent　ham

brought　from　Seville；　then；　taking　his　seat　at　a　little　distance；　he

solaced　himself　with　what　remained　in　the　alforjas。　A　visit　or　two

to　the　bota　made　him　as　merry　and　chirruping　as　a　grasshopper　filled

with　dew。　On　my　comparing　his　contents　of　the　alforjas　to　Sancho's

skimming　of　the　flesh…pots　at　the　wedding　of　Camacho；　I　found　he　was

well　versed　in　the　history　of　Don　Quixote；　but；　like　many　of　the

common　people　of　Spain；　firmly　believed　it　to　be　a　true　history。

　　〃All　that　happened　a　long　time　ago；　senor；〃　said　he；　with　an

inquiring　look。

　　〃A　very　long　time；〃　I　replied。

　　〃I　dare　say　more　than　a　thousand　years〃…　still　looking　dubiously。

　　〃I　dare　say　not　less。〃

　　The　squire　was　satisfied。　Nothing　pleased　the　simple…hearted

varlet　more　than　my　comparing　him　to　the　renowned　Sancho　for

devotion　to　the　trencher；　and　he　called　himself　by　no　other　name

throughout　the　journey。

　　Our　repast　being　finished；　we　spread　our　cloaks　on　the　green…sward

under　the　tree；　and　took　a　luxurious　siesta　in　the　Spanish　fashion。

The　clouding　up　of　the　weather；　however；　warned　us　to　depart；　and　a

harsh　wind　sprang　up　from　the　southeast。　Towards　five　o'clock　we

arrived　at　Osuna；　a　town　of　fifteen　thousand　inhabitants；　situated

on　the　side　of　a　hill；　with　a　church　and　a　ruined　castle。　The　posada

was　outside　of　the　walls；　it　had　a　cheerless　look。　The　evening　being

cold；　the　inhabitants　were　crowded　round　a　brasero　in　a　chimney

corner；　and　the　hostess　was　a　dry　old　woman；　who　looked　like　a

mummy。　Every　one　eyed　us　askance　as　we　entered；　as　Spaniards　are　apt

to　regard　strangers；　a　cheery；　respectful　salutation　on　our　part；

caballeroing　them　and　touching　our　sombreros；　set　Spanish　pride　at

ease；　and　when　we　took　our　seat　among　them；　lit　our　cigars；　and　passed

the　cigar…box　round　among　them；　our　victory　was　complete。　I　have　never

known　a　Spaniard；　whatever　his　rank　or　condition；　who　would　suffer

himself　to　be　outdone　in　courtesy；　and　to　the　common　Spaniard　the

present　of　a　cigar　（puro）　is　irresistible。　Care；　however；　must　be

taken　never　to　offer　him　a　present　with　an　air　of　superiority　and

condescension；　he　is　too　much　of　a　caballero　to　receive　favors　at

the　cost　of　his　dignity。

　　Leaving　Osuna　at　an　early　hour　the　next　morning；　we　entered　the

sierra　or　range　of　mountains。　The　road　wound　through　picturesque

scenery；　but　lonely；　and　a　cross　here　and　there　by　the　road　side；

the　sign　of　a　murder；　showed　that　we　were　now　coming　among　the　〃robber

haunts。〃　This　wild　and　intricate　country；　with　its　silent　plains　and

valleys　intersected　by　mountains；　has　ever　been　famous　for　banditti。

It　was　here　that　Omar　Ibn　Hassan；　a　robber…chief　among　the　Moslems；

held　ruthless　sway　in　the　ninth　century；　disputing　dominion　even

with　the　caliphs　of　Cordova。　This　too　was　a　part　of　the　regions　so

often　ravaged　during　the　reign　of　Ferdinand　and　Isabella　by　Ali

Atar；　the　old　Moorish　alcayde　of　Loxa；　father…in…law　of　Boabdil；　so

that　it　was　called　Ali　Atar's　garden；　and　here　〃Jose　Maria；〃　famous　in

Spanish　brigand　story；　had　his　favorite　lurking　places。

　　In　the　course　of　the　day　we　passed　through　Fuente　la　Piedra　near　a

little　salt　lake　of　the　same　name；　a　beautiful　sheet　of　water；

reflecting　like　a　mirror　the　distant　mountains。　We　now　came　in　sight

of　Antiquera；　that　old　city　of　warlike　reputation；　lying　in　the　lap　of

the　great　sierra　which　runs　through　Andalusia。　A　noble　vega　spread　out

before　it；　a　picture　of　mild　fertility　set　in　a　frame　of　rocky

mountains。　Crossing　a　gentle　river　we　approached　the　city　between

hedges　and　gardens；　in　which　nightingales　were　pouring　forth　their

evening　song。　About　nightfall　we　arrived　at　the　gates。　Every　thing

in　this　venerable　city　has　a　decidedly　Spanish　stamp。　It　lies　too　much

out　of　the　frequented　track　of　foreign　travel　to　have　its　old　usages

trampled　out。　Here　I　observed　old　men　still　wearing　the　montero；　or

ancient　hunting　cap；　once　common　throughout　Spain；　while　the　young　men

wore　the　little　round…crowned　hat；　with　brim　turned　up　all　round；　like

a　cup　turned　down　in　its　saucer；　while　the　brim　was　set　off　with

little　black　tufts　like　cockades。　The　women；　too；　were　all　in

mantillas　and　basquinas。　The　fashions　of　Paris　had　not　reached

Antiquera。

　　Pursuing　our　course　through　a　spacious　street；　we　put　up　at　the

posada　of　San　Fernando。　As　Antiquera；　though　a　considerable　city；

is；　as　I　observed；　somewhat　out　of　the　track　of　travel；　I　had

anticipated　bad　quarters　and　poor　fare　at　the　inn。　I　was　agreeably

disappointed；　therefore；　by　a　supper　table　amply　supplied；　and　what

were　still　more　acceptable；　good　clean　rooms　and　comfortable　beds。　Our

man；　Sancho；　felt　himself　as　well　off　as　his　namesake；　when　he　had　the

run　of　the　duke's　kitchen；　and　let　me　know；　as　I　retir