part01-第4章

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man；　Sancho；　felt　himself　as　well　off　as　his　namesake；　when　he　had　the

run　of　the　duke's　kitchen；　and　let　me　know；　as　I　retired　for　the

night；　that　it　had　been　a　proud　time　for　the　alforjas。

　　Early　in　the　morning　（May　4th）　I　strolled　to　the　ruins　of　the　old

Moorish　castle；　which　itself　had　been　reared　on　the　ruins　of　a　Roman

fortress。　Here；　taking　my　seat　on　the　remains　of　a　crumbling　tower；

I　enjoyed　a　grand　and　varied　landscape；　beautiful　in　itself；　and

full　of　storied　and　romantic　associations；　for　I　was　now　in　the　very

heart　of　the　country　famous　for　the　chivalrous　contests　between　Moor

and　Christian。　Below　me；　in　its　lap　of　hills；　lay　the　old　warrior　city

so　often　mentioned　in　chronicle　and　ballad。　Out　of　yon　gate　and　down

yon　hill　paraded　the　band　of　Spanish　cavaliers；　of　highest　rank　and

bravest　bearing；　to　make　that　foray　during　the　war　and　conquest　of

Granada；　which　ended　in　the　lamentable　massacre　among　the　mountains　of

Malaga；　and　laid　all　Andalusia　in　mourning。　Beyond　spread　out　the

vega；　covered　with　gardens　and　orchards　and　fields　of　grain　and

enamelled　meadows；　inferior　only　to　the　famous　vega　of　Granada。　To　the

right　the　Rock　of　the　Lovers　stretched　like　a　cragged　promontory

into　the　plain；　whence　the　daughter　of　the　Moorish　alcayde　and　her

lover；　when　closely　pursued；　threw　themselves　in　despair。

　　The　matin　peal　from　church　and　convent　below　me　rang　sweetly　in

the　morning　air；　as　I　descended。　The　market…place　was　beginning　to

throng　with　the　populace；　who　traffic　in　the　abundant　produce　of　the

vega；　for　this　is　the　mart　of　an　agricultural　region。　In　the

market…place　were　abundance　of　freshly　plucked　roses　for　sale；　for　not

a　dame　or　damsel　of　Andalusia　thinks　her　gala　dress　complete　without　a

rose　shining　like　a　gem　among　her　raven　tresses。

　　On　returning　to　the　inn　I　found　our　man　Sancho；　in　high　gossip

with　the　landlord　and　two　or　three　of　his　hangers…on。　He　had　just　been

telling　some　marvellous　story　about　Seville；　which　mine　host　seemed

piqued　to　match　with　one　equally　marvellous　about　Antiquera。　There　was

once　a　fountain；　he　said；　in　one　of　the　public　squares　called　IL

fuente　del　toro；　the　fountain　of　the　bull；　because　the　water　gushed

from　the　mouth　of　a　bull's　head；　carved　of　stone。　Underneath　the

head　was　inscribed：



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　EN　FRENTE　DEL　TORO

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　SE　HALLEN　TESORO。



（In　front　of　the　bull　there　is　treasure。）　Many　digged　in　front　of

the　fountain；　but　lost　their　labor　and　found　no　money。　At　last　one

knowing　fellow　construed　the　motto　a　different　way。　It　is　in　the

forehead　（frente）　of　the　bull　that　the　treasure　is　to　be　found；　said

he　to　himself；　and　I　am　the　man　to　find　it。　Accordingly　he　came　late

at　night；　with　a　mallet；　and　knocked　the　head　to　pieces；　and　what　do

you　think　he　found？

　　〃Plenty　of　gold　and　diamonds！〃　cried　Sancho　eagerly。

　　〃He　found　nothing；〃　rejoined　mine　host　dryly；　〃and　he　ruined　the

fountain。〃

　　Here　a　great　laugh　was　set　up　by　the　landlord's　hangers…on；　who

considered　Sancho　completely　taken　in　by　what　I　presume　was　one　of

mine　host's　standing　jokes。

　　Leaving　Antiquera　at　eight　O'clock；　we　had　a　delightful　ride　along

the　little　river；　and　by　gardens　and　orchards；　fragrant　with　the　odors

of　spring　and　vocal　with　the　nightingale。　Our　road　passed　round　the

Rock　of　the　Lovers　（el　Penon　de　los　Enamorados）；　which　rose　in　a

precipice　above　us。　In　the　course　of　the　morning　we　passed　through

Archidona；　situated　in　the　breast　of　a　high　hill；　with　a　three…pointed

mountain　towering　above　it；　and　the　ruins　of　a　Moorish　fortress。　It

was　a　great　toil　to　ascend　a　steep　stony　street　leading　up　into　the

city；　although　it　bore　the　encouraging　name　of　Calle　Real　del　Llano

（the　Royal　Street　of　the　Plain）；　but　it　was　still　a　greater　toil　to

descend　from　this　mountain　city　on　the　other　side。

　　At　noon　we　halted　in　sight　of　Archidona；　in　a　pleasant　little　meadow

among　hills　covered　with　olive…trees。　Our　cloaks　were　spread　on　the

grass；　under　an　elm　by　the　side　of　a　bubbling　rivulet；　our　horses　were

tethered　where　they　might　crop　the　herbage；　and　Sancho　was　told　to

produce　his　alforjas。　He　had　been　unusually　silent　this　morning　ever

since　the　laugh　raised　at　his　expense；　but　now　his　countenance

brightened；　and　he　produced　his　alforjas　with　an　air　of　triumph。

They　contained　the　contributions　of　four　days'　journeying；　but　had

been　signally　enriched　by　the　foraging　of　the　previous　evening　in

the　plenteous　inn　at　Antiquera；　and　this　seemed　to　furnish　him　with

a　set…off　to　the　banter　of　mine　host。



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　EN　FRENTE　DEL　TORO

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　SE　HALLEN　TESORO



would　he　exclaim；　with　a　chuckling　laugh；　as　he　drew　forth　the

heterogeneous　contents　one　by　one；　in　a　series　which　seemed　to　have　no

end。　First　came　forth　a　shoulder　of　roasted　kid；　very　little　the　worse

for　wear；　then　an　entire　partridge；　then　a　great　morsel　of　salted

codfish　wrapped　in　paper；　then　the　residue　of　a　ham；　then　the　half

of　a　pullet；　together　with　several　rolls　of　bread；　and　a　rabble　rout

of　oranges；　figs；　raisins；　and　walnuts。　His　bota　also　had　been

recruited　with　some　excellent　wine　of　Malaga。　At　every　fresh

apparition　from　his　larder；　he　would　enjoy　our　ludicrous　surprise；

throwing　himself　back　on　the　grass；　shouting　with　laughter；　and

exclaiming　〃Frente　del　toro！…　frente　del　toro！　Ah；　senores；　they

thought　Sancho　a　simpleton　at　Antiquera；　but　Sancho　knew　where　to　find

the　tesoro。〃

　　While　we　were　diverting　ourselves　with　his　simple　drollery；　a

solitary　beggar　approached；　who　had　almost　the　look　of　a　pilgrim。　He

had　a　venerable　gray　beard；　and　was　evidently　very　old；　supporting

himself　on　a　staff；　yet　age　had　not　bowed　him　down；　he　was　tall　and

erect；　and　had　the　wreck　of　a　fine　form。　He　wore　a　round　Andalusian

hat；　a　sheep…skin　jacket；　and　leathern　breeches；　gaiters；　and　sandals。

His　dress；　though　old　and　patched；　was　decent；　his　demeanor　manly；　and

he　addressed　us　with　the　grave　courtesy　that　is　to　be　remarked　in

the　lowest　Spaniard。　We　were　in　a　favorable　mood　for　such　a　visitor；

and　in　a　freak　of　capricious　charity　gave　him　some　silver；　a　loaf　of

fine　wheaten　bread；　and　a　goblet　of　our　choice　wine　of　Malaga。　He

received　them　thankfully；　but　without　any　grovelling　tribute　of

gratitude。　Tasting　the　wine；　he　held　it　up　to　the　light；　with　a　slight

beam　of　surprise　in　his　eye；　then　quaffing　it　off　at　a　draught；　〃It　is

many　years；〃　said　he；　〃since　I　have　tasted　such　wine。　It　is　a

cordial　to　an　old　man's　heart。〃　Then；　looking　at　the　beautiful　wheaten

loaf；　〃Bendito　sea　tal　pan！〃　〃Blessed　be　such　bread！〃　So　saying；　he

put　it　in　his　wallet。　We　urged　him　to　eat　it　on　the　spot。　〃No；

senores；〃　replied　he；　〃the　wine　I　had　either　to　drink　or　leave；　but

the　bread　I　may　take　home　to　share　with　my　family。〃

　　Our　man　Sancho　sought　our　eye；　and　reading　permission　there；　gave

the　old　man　some　of　the　ample　fragments　of　our　repast；　on　condition；

however；　that　he　should　sit　down　and　make　a　meal。

　　He　accordingly　took　his　seat　at　some　little　distance　from　us；　and

began　to　eat　slowly；　and　with　a　sobriety　and　decorum　that　would　have

become　a　hidalgo。　There　was　altogether　a　measured　manner　and　a　quiet

self…possession　about　the　old　man；　that　made　me　think　that　he　had　seen

better　days；　his　language　too；　though　simple；　had　occasionally

something　picturesque　and　almost　poetical　in　the　phraseology。　I　set

him　down　for　some　broken…down　cavalier。　I　was　mistaken；　it　was　nothing

but　the　innate　courtesy　of　a　Spaniard；　and　the　poetical　turn　of

thought　and　language　often　to　be　found　in　the　lowest　classes　of　this

clear…witted　people。　For　fifty　years；　he　told　us；　he　had　been　a

shepherd；　but　now　he　was　out　of　employ　and　destitute。　〃When　I　was　a

young　man；〃　said　he；　〃nothing　could　harm　or　trouble　me；　I　was　always

well；　always　gay；　but　now　I　am　seventy…nine　years　of　age；　and　a

beggar；　and　my　heart　begins　to　fail　me。〃

　　Still　he　was　not　a　regular　mendicant：　it　was　not　until　recently　that

want　had　driven　him　to　this　degradation；　and　he　gave　a　touching

picture　of　the　struggle　between　hunger　and　pride；　when　abject

destitution　first　came　upon　him。　He　was　returning　from　Malaga

without　money；　he　had　not　tasted　food　for　some　time；　and　was

crossing　one　of　the　great　plains　of　Spain；　where　there　were　but　few

habitations。　When　almost　dead　with　hunger；　he　applied　at　the　door　of　a

venta　or　country　inn。　〃Perdon　usted　por　Dios；　hermano！〃　（〃Excuse　us；

brother；　for　God's　sake！〃）　was　the　reply…　the　usual　mode　in　Spain　of

refusing　a　beggar。

　　〃I　turned　away；〃　said　he；　〃with　shame　greater　than　my　hunger；　for　my

heart　was　yet　too　proud。　I　came　to　a　river　with　high　banks；　and

deep；　rapid　current；　and　felt　tempted　to　throw　myself　in：　'What　should

such　an　old；　worthless；　wretched　man　as　I　live　for？'　But　when　I　was　on

the　brink　of　the　current；　I　thought　on　the　blessed　Virgin；　and

turned　away。　I　travelled　on　until　I　saw　a　country…seat　at　a　little

distance　from　the　road；　and　entered　the　outer　gate　of　the

court…yard。　The　door　was　shut；　but　there　were　two　young　senoras　at　a

window。　I　approached　and　begged。　'Perdon　usted　por　Dios；　hermano！'…

and　the　window　closed。

　　〃I　crept　out　of　the　court…yard；　but　hunger　overcame　me；　and　my　heart

gave　way：　I　thought　my　hour　at　hand；　so　I　laid　myself　down　at　the

gate；　commended　myself　to　the　Holy　Virgin；　and　covered　my　head　to　die。

In　a　little　while　afterwards　the　master　of　the　house　came　home。　Seeing

me　lying　at　his　gate；　he　uncovered　my　head；　had　pity　on　my　gray　hairs；

took　me　into　his　house；　and　gave　me　food。　So；　senores；　you　see　that

one　should　always　put　confidence　in　the　protection　of　the　Virgin。〃

　　The　old　man　was　on　his　way　to　his　native　place；　Archidona；　which　was

in　full　view　on　its　steep　and　rugged　mountain。　He　pointed　to　the　ruins

of　its　castle。　〃That　castle；〃　he　said；　〃was　inhabited　by　a　Moorish

king　at　the　time　of　the　wars　of　Granada。　Queen　Isabella　invaded　it

with　a　great　army；　but　the　king　looked　down　from　his　castle　among

the　clouds；　and　laughed　her　to　scorn！　Upon　this　the　Virgin　appeared　to

the　queen；　and　guided　her　and　her　army　up　a　mysterious　path　in　the

mountains；　which　had　never　before　been　known。　When　the　Moor　saw　her

coming；　he　was　astonished；　and　springing　with　his　horse　from　a

precipice；　was　dashed　to　pieces！　The　marks　of　his　horse's　hoofs；〃　said

the　old　man；　〃are　to　be　seen　in　the　margin　of　the　rock　to　this　day。

And　see；　senores；　yonder　is　the　road　by　which　the　queen　and　her　army

mounted：　you　see　it　like　a　ribbon　up　the　mountain's　side；　but　the

miracle　is；　that；　though　it　can　be　seen　at　a　distance；　when　you　come

near　it　disappears！〃

　　The　ideal　road　to　which　he　pointed　was　undoubtedly　a　sandy　ravine　of

the　mountain；　which　looked　narrow　and　defined　at　a　distance；　but

became　broad　and　indistinct　on　an　approach。

　　As　the　old　man's　heart　warmed　with　wine　and　wassail；　he　went　on　to

tell　us　a　story　of　the　b