a journey to-第4章

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grandeur　and　the　elegance；　for　our　way　afforded　us　few　topics　of
conversation。　　The　ground　was　neither　uncultivated　nor　unfruitful；
but　it　was　still　all　arable。　　Of　flocks　or　herds　there　was　no
appearance。　　I　had　now　travelled　two　hundred　miles　in　Scotland；　and
seen　only　one　tree　not　younger　than　myself。



BAMFF



We　dined　this　day　at　the　house　of　Mr。　Frazer　of　Streichton；　who
shewed　us　in　his　grounds　some　stones　yet　standing　of　a　druidical
circle；　and　what　I　began　to　think　more　worthy　of　notice；　some
forest　trees　of　full　growth。

At　night　we　came　to　Bamff；　where　I　remember　nothing　that
particularly　claimed　my　attention。　　The　ancient　towns　of　Scotland
have　generally　an　appearance　unusual　to　Englishmen。　　The　houses；
whether　great　or　small；　are　for　the　most　part　built　of　stones。
Their　ends　are　now　and　then　next　the　streets；　and　the　entrance　into
them　is　very　often　by　a　flight　of　steps；　which　reaches　up　to　the
second　story；　the　floor　which　is　level　with　the　ground　being
entered　only　by　stairs　descending　within　the　house。

The　art　of　joining　squares　of　glass　with　lead　is　little　used　in
Scotland；　and　in　some　places　is　totally　forgotten。　　The　frames　of
their　windows　are　all　of　wood。　　They　are　more　frugal　of　their　glass
than　the　English；　and　will　often；　in　houses　not　otherwise　mean；
compose　a　square　of　two　pieces；　not　joining　like　cracked　glass；　but
with　one　edge　laid　perhaps　half　an　inch　over　the　other。　　Their
windows　do　not　move　upon　hinges；　but　are　pushed　up　and　drawn　down
in　grooves；　yet　they　are　seldom　accommodated　with　weights　and
pullies。　　He　that　would　have　his　window　open　must　hold　it　with　his
hand；　unless　what　may　be　sometimes　found　among　good　contrivers；
there　be　a　nail　which　he　may　stick　into　a　hole；　to　keep　it　from
falling。

What　cannot　be　done　without　some　uncommon　trouble　or　particular
expedient；　will　not　often　be　done　at　all。　　The　incommodiousness　of
the　Scotch　windows　keeps　them　very　closely　shut。　　The　necessity　of
ventilating　human　habitations　has　not　yet　been　found　by　our
northern　neighbours；　and　even　in　houses　well　built　and　elegantly
furnished；　a　stranger　may　be　sometimes　forgiven；　if　he　allows
himself　to　wish　for　fresher　air。

These　diminutive　observations　seem　to　take　away　something　from　the
dignity　of　writing；　and　therefore　are　never　communicated　but　with
hesitation；　and　a　little　fear　of　abasement　and　contempt。　　But　it
must　be　remembered；　that　life　consists　not　of　a　series　of
illustrious　actions；　or　elegant　enjoyments；　the　greater　part　of　our
time　passes　in　compliance　with　necessities；　in　the　performance　of
daily　duties；　in　the　removal　of　small　inconveniences；　in　the
procurement　of　petty　pleasures；　and　we　are　well　or　ill　at　ease；　as
the　main　stream　of　life　glides　on　smoothly；　or　is　ruffled　by　small
obstacles　and　frequent　interruption。　　The　true　state　of　every
nation　is　the　state　of　common　life。　　The　manners　of　a　people　are
not　to　be　found　in　the　schools　of　learning；　or　the　palaces　of
greatness；　where　the　national　character　is　obscured　or　obliterated
by　travel　or　instruction；　by　philosophy　or　vanity；　nor　is　public
happiness　to　be　estimated　by　the　assemblies　of　the　gay；　or　the
banquets　of　the　rich。　　The　great　mass　of　nations　is　neither　rich
nor　gay：　　they　whose　aggregate　constitutes　the　people；　are　found　in
the　streets；　and　the　villages；　in　the　shops　and　farms；　and　from
them　collectively　considered；　must　the　measure　of　general
prosperity　be　taken。　　As　they　approach　to　delicacy　a　nation　is
refined；　as　their　conveniences　are　multiplied；　a　nation；　at　least　a
commercial　nation；　must　be　denominated　wealthy。



ELGIN



Finding　nothing　to　detain　us　at　Bamff；　we　set　out　in　the　morning；
and　having　breakfasted　at　Cullen；　about　noon　came　to　Elgin；　where
in　the　inn；　that　we　supposed　the　best；　a　dinner　was　set　before　us；
which　we　could　not　eat。　　This　was　the　first　time；　and　except　one；
the　last；　that　I　found　any　reason　to　complain　of　a　Scotish　table；
and　such　disappointments；　I　suppose；　must　be　expected　in　every
country；　where　there　is　no　great　frequency　of　travellers。

The　ruins　of　the　cathedral　of　Elgin　afforded　us　another　proof　of
the　waste　of　reformation。　　There　is　enough　yet　remaining　to　shew；
that　it　was　once　magnificent。　　Its　whole　plot　is　easily　traced。　　On
the　north　side　of　the　choir；　the　chapter…house；　which　is　roofed
with　an　arch　of　stone；　remains　entire；　and　on　the　south　side；
another　mass　of　building；　which　we　could　not　enter；　is　preserved　by
the　care　of　the　family　of　Gordon；　but　the　body　of　the　church　is　a
mass　of　fragments。

A　paper　was　here　put　into　our　hands；　which　deduced　from　sufficient
authorities　the　history　of　this　venerable　ruin。　　The　church　of
Elgin　had；　in　the　intestine　tumults　of　the　barbarous　ages；　been
laid　waste　by　the　irruption　of　a　highland　chief；　whom　the　bishop
had　offended；　but　it　was　gradually　restored　to　the　state；　of　which
the　traces　may　be　now　discerned；　and　was　at　last　not　destroyed　by
the　tumultuous　violence　of　Knox；　but　more　shamefully　suffered　to
dilapidate　by　deliberate　robbery　and　frigid　indifference。　　There　is
still　extant；　in　the　books　of　the　council；　an　order；　of　which　I
cannot　remember　the　date；　but　which　was　doubtless　issued　after　the
Reformation；　directing　that　the　lead；　which　covers　the　two
cathedrals　of　Elgin　and　Aberdeen；　shall　be　taken　away；　and
converted　into　money　for　the　support　of　the　army。　　A　Scotch　army
was　in　those　times　very　cheaply　kept；　yet　the　lead　of　two　churches
must　have　born　so　small　a　proportion　to　any　military　expence；　that
it　is　hard　not　to　believe　the　reason　alleged　to　be　merely　popular；
and　the　money　intended　for　some　private　purse。　　The　order　however
was　obeyed；　the　two　churches　were　stripped；　and　the　lead　was
shipped　to　be　sold　in　Holland。　　I　hope　every　reader　will　rejoice
that　this　cargo　of　sacrilege　was　lost　at　sea。

Let　us　not　however　make　too　much　haste　to　despise　our　neighbours。
Our　own　cathedrals　are　mouldering　by　unregarded　dilapidation。　　It
seems　to　be　part　of　the　despicable　philosophy　of　the　time　to
despise　monuments　of　sacred　magnificence；　and　we　are　in　danger　of
doing　that　deliberately；　which　the　Scots　did　not　do　but　in　the
unsettled　state　of　an　imperfect　constitution。

Those　who　had　once　uncovered　the　cathedrals　never　wished　to　cover
them　again；　and　being　thus　made　useless；　they　were；　first
neglected；　and　perhaps；　as　the　stone　was　wanted；　afterwards
demolished。

Elgin　seems　a　place　of　little　trade；　and　thinly　inhabited。　　The
episcopal　cities　of　Scotland；　I　believe；　generally　fell　with　their
churches；　though　some　of　them　have　since　recovered　by　a　situation
convenient　for　commerce。　　Thus　Glasgow；　though　it　has　no　longer　an
archbishop；　has　risen　beyond　its　original　state　by　the　opulence　of
its　traders；　and　Aberdeen；　though　its　ancient　stock　had　decayed；
flourishes　by　a　new　shoot　in　another　place。

In　the　chief　street　of　Elgin；　the　houses　jut　over　the　lowest　story；
like　the　old　buildings　of　timber　in　London；　but　with　greater
prominence；　so　that　there　is　sometimes　a　walk　for　a　considerable
length　under　a　cloister；　or　portico；　which　is　now　indeed　frequently
broken；　because　the　new　houses　have　another　form；　but　seems　to　have
been　uniformly　continued　in　the　old　city。



FORES。　　CALDER。　　FORT　GEORGE



We　went　forwards　the　same　day　to　Fores；　the　town　to　which　Macbeth
was　travelling；　when　he　met　the　weird　sisters　in　his　way。　　This　to
an　Englishman　is　classic　ground。　　Our　imaginations　were　heated；　and
our　thoughts　recalled　to　their　old　amusements。

We　had　now　a　prelude　to　the　Highlands。　　We　began　to　leave　fertility
and　culture　behind　us；　and　saw　for　a　great　length　of　road　nothing
but　heath；　yet　at　Fochabars；　a　seat　belonging　to　the　duke　of
Gordon；　there　is　an　orchard；　which　in　Scotland　I　had　never　seen
before；　with　some　timber　trees；　and　a　plantation　of　oaks。

At　Fores　we　found　good　accommodation；　but　nothing　worthy　of
particular　remark；　and　next　morning　entered　upon　the　road；　on　which
Macbeth　heard　the　fatal　prediction；　but　we　travelled　on　not
interrupted　by　promises　of　kingdoms；　and　came　to　Nairn；　a　royal
burgh；　which；　if　once　it　flourished；　is　now　in　a　state　of　miserable
decay；　but　I　know　not　whether　its　chief　annual　magistrate　has　not
still　the　title　of　Lord　Provost。

At　Nairn　we　may　fix　the　verge　of　the　Highlands；　for　here　I　first
saw　peat　fires；　and　first　heard　the　Erse　language。　　We　had　no
motive　to　stay　longer　than　to　breakfast；　and　went　forward　to　the
house　of　Mr。　Macaulay；　the　minister　who　published　an　account　of　St。
Kilda；　and　by　his　direction　visited　Calder　Castle；　from　which
Macbeth　drew　his　second　title。　　It　has　been　formerly　a　place　of
strength。　　The　draw…bridge　is　still　to　be　seen；　but　the　moat　is　now
dry。　　The　tower　is　very　ancient：　　Its　walls　are　of　great　thickness；
arched　on　the　top　with　stone；　and　surrounded　with　battlements。　　The
rest　of　the　house　is　later；　though　far　from　modern。

We　were　favoured　by　a　gentleman；　who　lives　in　the　castle；　with　a
letter　to　one　of　the　officers　at　Fort　George；　which　being　the　most
regular　fortification　in　the　island；　well　deserves　the　notice　of　a
traveller；　who　has　never　travelled　before。　　We　went　thither　next
day；　found　a　very　kind　reception；　were　led　round　the　works　by　a
gentleman；　who　explained　the　use　of　every　part；　and　entertained　by
Sir　Eyre　Coote；　the　governour；　with　such　elegance　of　conversation
as　left　us　no　attention　to　the　delicacies　of　his　table。

Of　Fort　George　I　shall　not　attempt　to　give　any　account。　　I　cannot
delineate　it　scientifically；　and　a　loose　and　popular　description　is
of　use　only　when　the　imagination　is　to　be　amused。　　There　was　every
where　an　appearance　of　the　utmost　neatness　and　regularity。　　But　my
suffrage　is　of　little　value；　because　this　and　Fort　Augustus　are　the
only　garrisons　that　I　ever　saw。

We　did　not　regret　the　time　spent　at　the　fort；　though　in　consequence
of　our　delay　we　came　somewhat　late　to　Inverness；　the　town　which　may
properly　be　called　the　capital　of　the　Highlands。　　Hither　the
inhabitants　of　the　inland　parts　come　to　be　supplied　with　what　they
cannot　make　for　themselves：　　Hither　the　young　nymphs　of　the
mountains　and　valleys　are　sent　for　education；　and　as　far　as　my
observation　has　reached；　are　not　sent　in　vain。



INVERNESS



Inverness　was　the　last　place　which　had　a　regular　communication　by
high　roads　with　the　southern　counties。　　All　the　ways　beyond　it
have；　I　believe；　been　made　by　the　soldiers　in　this　century。　　At
Inverness　therefore　Cromwell；　when　he　subdued　Scotland；　stationed　a
garrison；　as　at　the　boundary　of　the　Highlands。　　The　soldiers　seem
to　have　incorporated　afterwards　with　the　inhabitants；　and　to　have
peopled　the　place　with　an　English　race；　for　the　language　of　this
town　has　been　long　considered　as　peculiarly　elegant。

Here　is　a　castle；　called　the　castle　of　Macbeth；　the　walls　of　which
are　yet　standing。　　It　was　no　very　capacious　edifice；　but　stands
upon　a　rock　so　high　and　steep；　that　I　think　it　was　once　not
accessible；　but　by　the　help　of　ladders；　or　a　bridge。　　Over　against
it；　on　another　hill；　was　a　fort　built　by　Cromwell；　now　totally
demolished；　for　no　faction　of　Scotland　loved　the　name　of　Cromwell；
or　had　any　desire　to　continue　his　memory。

Yet　what