the complete angler-第24章

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pulling；　and　so　get　him　out　by　degrees；　not　pulling　too　hard。

And　to　commute　for　your　patient　hearing　this　long　direction；　I　shall　next　tell　you；　How　to　make　this　Eel　a　most　excellent　dish　of　meat。

First；　wash　him　in　water　and　salt；　then　pull　off　his　skin　below　his　vent　or　navel；　and　not　much　further：　having　done　that；　take　out　his　guts　as　clean　as　you　can；　but　wash　him　not：　then　give　him　three　or　four　scotches　with　a　knife；　and　then　put　into　his　belly　and　those　scotches；　sweet　herbs；　an　anchovy；　and　a　little　nutmeg　grated　or　cut　very　small；　and　your　herbs　and　anchovies　must　also　be　cut　very　small；　and　mixt　with　good　butter　and　salt：　having　done　this；　then　pull　his　skin　over　him；　all　but　his　head；　which　you　are　to　cut　off；　to　the　end　you　may　tie　his　skin　about　that　part　where　his　head　grew；　and　it　must　be　so　tied　as　to　keep　all　his　moisture　within　his　skin：　and　having　done　this；　tie　him　with　tape　or　packthread　to　a　spit；　and　roast　him　leisurely；　and　baste　him　with　water　and　salt　till　his　skin　breaks；　and　then　with　butter；　and　having　roasted　him　enough；　let　what　was　put　into　his　belly；　and　what　he　drips；　be　his　sauce。　S。　F。

When　I　go　to　dress　an　Eel　thus；　I　wish　he　were　as　long　and　as　big　as　that　which　was　caught　in　Peterborough　river；　in　the　year　1667；　which　was　a　yard　and　three　quarters　long。　If　you　will　not　believe　me；　then　go　and　see　at　one　of　the　coffee…houses　in　King　Street　in　Westminster。

But　now　let　me　tell　you；　that　though　the　Eel；　thus　drest；　be　not　only　excellent　good；　but　more　harmless　than　any　other　way；　yet　it　is　certain　that　physicians　account　the　Eel　dangerous　meat；　I　will　advise　you　therefore；　as　Solomon　says　of　honey；　〃　Hast　thou　found　it；　eat　no　more　than　is　sufficient；　lest　thou　surfeit；　for　it　is　not　good　to　eat　much　honey　〃。　And　let　me　add　this；　that　the　uncharitable　Italian　bids　us　〃　give　Eels　and　no　wine　to　our　enemies　〃。

And　I　will　beg　a　little　more　of　your　attention；　to　tell　you；　that　Aldrovandus；　and　divers　physicians；　commend　the　Eel　very　much　for　medicine；　though　not　for　meat。　But　let　me　tell　you　one　observation；　that　the　Eel　is　never　out　of　season；　as　Trouts；　and　most　other　fish；　are　at　set　times；　at　least；　most　Eels　are　not。

I　might　here　speak　of　many　other　fish；　whose　shape　and　nature　are　much　like　the　Eel；　and　frequent　both　the　sea　and　fresh　rivers；　as；　namely；　the　Lamprel；　the　Lamprey；　and　the　Lamperne：　as　also　of　the　mighty　Conger；　taken　often　in　Severn；　about　Gloucester：　and　might　also　tell　in　what　high　esteem　many　of　them　are　for　the　curiosity　of　their　taste。　But　these　are　not　so　proper　to　be　talked　of　by　me；　because　they　make　us　anglers　no　sport；　therefore　I　will　let　them　alone；　as　the　Jews　do；　to　whom　they　are　forbidden　by　their　law。

And；　scholar；　there　is　also　a　FLOUNDER；　a　sea…fish　which　will　wander　very　far　into　fresh　rivers；　and　there　lose　himself　and　dwell：　and　thrive　to　a　hand's　breadth；　and　almost　twice　so　long：　a　fish　without　scales；　and　most　excellent　meat：　and　a　fish　that　affords　much　sport　to　the　angler；　with　any　small　worm；　but　especially　a　little　bluish　worm；　gotten　out　of　marsh…ground；　or　meadows；　which　should　be　well　scoured。　But　this；　though　it　be　most　excellent　meat；　yet　it　wants　scales；　and　is；　as　I　told　you；　therefore　an　abomination　to　the　Jews。

But；　scholar；　there　is　a　fish　that　they　in　Lancashire　boast　very　much　of；　called　a　CHAR；　taken　there；　and　I　think　there　only；　in　a　mere　called　Winander　Mere；　a　mere；　says　Camden；　that　is　the　largest　in　this　nation；　being　ten　miles　in　length；　and　some　say　as　smooth　in　the　bottom　as　if　it　were　paved　with　polished　marble。　This　fish　never　exceeds　fifteen　or　sixteen　inches　in　length；　and　is　spotted　like　a　Trout：　and　has　scarce　a　bone；　but　on　the　back。　But　this；　though　I　do　not　know　whether　it　make　the　angler　sport；　yet　I　would　have　you　take　notice　of　it；　because　it　is　a　rarity；　and　of　so　high　esteem　with　persons　of　great　note。

Nor　would　I　have　you　ignorant　of　a　rare　fish　called　a　GUINIAD；　of　which　I　shall　tell　you　what　Camden　and　others　speak。　The　river　Dee；　which　runs　by　Chester；　springs　in　Merionethshire；　and；　as　it　runs　toward　Chester；　it　runs　through　Pemble　Mere；　which　is　a　large　water：　and　it　is　observed；　that　though　the　river　Dee　abounds　with　Salmon；　and　Pemble　mere　with　the　（Guiniad；　yet　there　is　never　any　Salmon　caught　in　the　mere；　nor　a　Guiniad　in　the　river。　And　now　my　next　observation　shall　be　of　the　Barbel。





The　fourth　day…continued

Of　the　Barbel

Chapter　XIV

Piscator；　Venator；　Milk…woman

Piscator。　The　Barbel　is　so　called；　says　Gesner；　by　reason　of　his　barb　or　wattles　at　his　mouth；　which　are　under　his　nose　or　chaps。　He　is　one　of　those　leather…mouthed　fishes　that　I　told　you　of；　that　does　very　seldom　break　his　hold　if　he　be　once　hooked：　but　he　is　so　strong；　that　he　will　often　break　both　rod　and　line；　if　he　proves　to　be　a　big　one。

But　the　Barbel；　though　he　be　of　a　fine　shape；　and　looks　big；　yet　he　is　not　accounted　the　best　fish　to　eat；　neither　for　his　wholesomeness　nor　his　taste；　but　the　male　is　reputed　much　better　than　the　female；　whose　spawn　is　very　hurtful；　as　I　will　presently　declare　to　you。

They　flock　together　like　sheep；　and　are　at　the　worst　in　April；　about　which　time　they　spawn；　but　quickly　grow　to　be　in　season。　He　is　able　to　live　in　the　strongest　swifts　of　the　water：　and；　in　summer；　they　love　the　shallowest　and　sharpest　streams：　and　love　to　lurk　under　weeds；　and　to　feed　on　gravel；　against　a　rising　ground；　and　will　root　and　dig　in　the　sands　with　his　nose　like　a　hog；　and　there　nests　himself：　yet　sometimes　he　retires　to　deep　and　swift　bridges；　or　flood…gates；　or　weir；　where　he　will　nest　himself　amongst　piles；　or　in　hollow　places；　and　take　such　hold　of　moss　or　weeds；　that　be　the　water　never　so　swift；　it　is　not　able　to　force　him　from　the　place　that　he　contends　for。　This　is　his　constant　custom　in　summer；　when　he　and　most　living　creatures　sport　themselves　in　the　sun：　but　at　the　approach　of　winter；　then　he　forsakes　the　swift　streams　and　shallow　waters；　and；　by　degrees；　retires　to　those　parts　of　the　river　that　are　quiet　and　deeper；　in　which　places；　and　I　think　about　that　time　he　spawns；　and；　as　I　have　formerly　told　you；　with　the　help　of　the　melter；　hides　his　spawn　or　eggs　in　holes；　which　they　both　dig　in　the　gravel；　and　then　they　mutually　labour　to　cover　it　with　the　same　sand；　to　prevent　it　from　being　devoured　by　other　fish。

There　be　such　store　of　this　fish　in　the　river　Danube；　that　Rondeletius　says　they　may；　in　some　places　of　it；　and　in　some　months　of　the　year；　be　taken；　by　those　who　dwell　near　to　the　river；　with　their　hands；　eight　or　ten　load　at　a　time。　He　says；　they　begin　to　be　good　in　May；　and　that　they　cease　to　be　so　in　August：　but　it　is　found　to　be　otherwise　in　this　nation。　But　thus　far　we　agree　with　him；　that　the　spawn　of　a　Barbel；　if　it　be　not　poison；　as　he　says；　yet　that　it　is　dangerous　meat；　and　especially　in　the　month　of　May；　which　is　so　certain；　that　Gesner　and　Gasius　declare　it　had　an　ill　effect　upon　them；　even　to　the　endangering　of　their　lives。

The　fish　is　of　a　fine　cast　and　handsome　shape；　with　small　scales；　which　are　placed　after　a　most　exact　and　curious　manner；　and；　as　I　told　you；　may　be　rather　said　not　to　be　ill；　than　to　be　good　meat；　The　Chub　and　he　have；　I　think；　both　lost　part　of　their　credit　by　ill　cookery；　they　being　reputed　the　worst；　or　coarsest；　of　fresh…water　fish。　But　the　Barbel　affords　an　angler　choice　sport；　being　a　lusty　and　a　cunning　fish；　so　lusty　and　cunning　as　to　endanger　the　breaking　of　the　angler's　line；　by　running　his　head　forcibly　towards　any　covert；　or　hole；　or　bank；　and　then　striking　at　the　line；　to　break　it　off；　with　his　tail；　as　is　observed　by　Plutarch；　in　his　book　De　Industria　Animalium：　and　also　so　cunning；　to　nibble　and　suck　off　your　worm　close　to　the　hook；　and　yet　avoid　the　letting　the　hook　come　into　his　mouth。

The　Barbel　is　also　curious　for　his　baits；　that　is　to　say；　that　they　be　clean　and　sweet；　that　is　to　say；　to　have　your　worms　well　scoured；　and　not　kept　in　sour　and　musty　moss；　for　he　is　a　curious　feeder：　but　at　a　well…scoured　lob…worm　he　will　bite　as　boldly　as　at　any　bait；　and　specially　if；　the　night　or　two　before　you　fish　for　him；　you　shall　bait　the　places　where　you　intend　to　fish　for　him；　with　big　worms　cut　into　pieces。　And　note；　that　none　did　ever　over…bait　the　place；　nor　fish　too　early　or　too　late　for　a　Barbel。　And　the　Barbel　will　bite　also　at　generals；　which；　not　being　too　much　scoured；　but　green；　are　a　choice　bait　for　him：　and　so　is　cheese；　which　is　not　to　be　too　hard；　but　kept　a　day　or　two　in　a　wet　linen　cloth；　to　make　it　tough；　with　this　you　may　also　bait　the　water　a　day　or　two　before　you　fish　for　the　Barbel；　and　be　much　the　likelier　to　catch　store；　and　if　the　cheese　were　laid　in　clarified　honey　a　short　time　before；　as　namely；　an　hour　or　two；　you　were　still　the　likelier　to　catch　fish。　Some　have　directed　to　cut　the　cheese　into　thin　pieces；　and　toast　it；　and　then　tie　it　on　the　hook　with　fine　silk。　And　some　advise　to　fish　for　the　Barbel　with　sheep's　tallow　and　soft　cheese；　beaten　or　worked　into　a　paste；　and　that　it　is　choicely　good　in　August：　and　I　believe　it。　Rut；　doubtless；　the　lob…　worm　well　scoured；　and　the　gentle　not　too　much　scoured；　and　cheese　ordered　as　I　have　directed；　are　baits　enough；　and　I　think　will　serve　in　any　month：　though　I　shall　commend　any　angler　that　tries　conclusions；　and　is　industrious　to　improve　the　art　And　now　my　honest　scholar；　the　long　shower　and　my　tedious　discourse　are　both　ended　together：　and　I　shall　give　you　but　this　observation；　that　when　you　fish　for　a　Barbel；　your　rod　and　line　be　both　long　and　of　good　strength；　for；　as　I　told　you；　you　will　find　him　a　heavy　and　a　dogged　fish　to　be　dealt　withal；　yet　he　seldom　or　never　breaks　his　hold；　if　he　be　once　strucken。　And　if　you　would　know　more　of　fishing　for　the　Umber　or　Barbel；　get　into　favour　with　Dr。　Sheldon；　whose　skill　is　above　others；　and　of　that；　the　poor　that　dwell　about　him　have　a　comfortable　experience。

And　now　let's　go　and　see　what　interest　the　Trouts　will　pay　us；　for　letting　our　angle…rods　lie　so　long　and　so　quietly　in　the　water　for　their　use。　Come；　scholar；　which　will　you　take　up　？

Venator。　Which　you　think　fit；　master。

Piscator。　Why；　you　shall　take　up　that；　for　I　am　certain；　by　viewing　the　line；　it　has　a　fish　at　it。　Look　you；　scholar！　well　done！　Come；　now　take　up　the　other　too：　well！　now　you　may　tell　my　brother　Peter；　at　night；　that　you　have　caught　a　leash　of　Trouts　this　day。　And　now　let's　move　towards　our　lodging；　and　drink　a　draught　of　red…cow's　milk　as　we　go；　and　give　pretty　Maudlin　and　her　honest　mother　a　brace　of　Trouts　for　their　supper。

Venator。　Master；　I　like　your　motion　very　well：　and　I　think　it　is　now　about　milking…time；　and　yonder　they　be　at　it

Piscator。　God　speed　you；　good　woman　！　I　thank　you　both　for　our　songs　last　night：　I　and　my　companion　have　had　such　fortune　a…fishing　this　day；　that　we　resolve　to　give　you　and　Maudlin　a　brace　of　Trouts　for　supper；　and　we　will　now　taste　a　draught　of　your　red…cow's　milk。

Milk…woman。　Marry；　and　that　you　shall　with　all　my　heart；　and　I　will　be　still　your　debtor　when　you　come　this　way。　If　you　will　but　speak　the　word；　I　will　make　you　a　good　syllabub　of　new　verjuice；　and　then　you　may　sit　down　in　a　haycock；　and　eat　it；　and　Maudlin　shall　sit　by　and　sing　you　the　good　old　song　of　the　〃　Hunti