the book of tea-第2章

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midnight；　and　with　tea　welcomed　　the　morning。〃

Charles　Lamb；　a　professed　devotee；　sounded　the　true　note　of　Teaism　　when　he　wrote　that　the　greatest　pleasure　he　knew　was　to　do　a　　good　action　by　stealth；　and　to　have　it　found　out　by　accident。　　For　Teaism　is　the　art　of　concealing　beauty　that　you　may　discover　it；　of　suggesting　what　you　dare　not　reveal。　　It　is　the　noble　secret　of　laughing　at　yourself；　calmly　yet　thoroughly；　and　is　thus　humour　itself；the　smile　of　philosophy。　　All　genuine　humourists　may　in　this　sense　be　called　tea…philosophers；Thackeray；　for　instance；　and　of　course；　Shakespeare。　　The　poets　of　the　Decadence　（when　was　not　the　world　in　decadence？）；　in　their　protests　against　materialism；　have；　to　a　certain　extent；　also　opened　the　way　to　Teaism。　　Perhaps　nowadays　it　is　our　demure　contemplation　of　the　Imperfect　that　the　West　and　the　East　can　meet　in　mutual　consolation。

The　Taoists　relate　that　at　the　great　beginning　of　the　No…Beginning；　Spirit　and　Matter　met　in　mortal　combat。　　At　last　the　Yellow　Emperor；　the　Sun　of　Heaven；　triumphed　over　Shuhyung；　the　demon　of　darkness　and　earth。　　The　Titan；　in　his　death　agony；　struck　his　head　against　the　solar　vault　and　shivered　the　blue　dome　of　jade　into　fragments。　　The　stars　lost　their　nests；　the　moon　wandered　aimlessly　among　the　wild　chasms　of　the　night。　　In　despair　the　Yellow　Emperor　sought　far　and　wide　for　the　repairer　of　the　Heavens。　　He　had　not　to　search　in　vain。　　Out　of　the　　Eastern　sea　rose　a　queen；　the　divine　Niuka；　horn…crowned　and　　dragon…tailed；　resplendent　in　her　armor　of　fire。　　She　welded　the　five…coloured　rainbow　in　her　magic　cauldron　and　rebuilt　the　Chinese　sky。　　But　it　is　told　that　Niuka　forgot　to　fill　two　tiny　　crevices　in　the　blue　firmament。　　Thus　began　the　dualism　of　lovetwo　souls　rolling　through　space　and　never　at　rest　until　they　join　together　to　complete　the　universe。　Everyone　has　to　build　anew　his　sky　of　hope　and　peace。

The　heaven　of　modern　humanity　is　indeed　shattered　in　the　Cyclopean　struggle　for　wealth　and　power。　　The　world　is　groping　in　the　shadow　of　egotism　and　vulgarity。　　Knowledge　is　bought　through　a　bad　conscience；　benevolence　practiced　for　the　sake　of　utility。　　The　East　and　the　West；　like　two　dragons　tossed　in　a　sea　of　ferment；　in　vain　strive　to　regain　the　jewel　of　life。　　We　need　a　Niuka　again　to　repair　the　grand　devastation；　we　await　the　great　Avatar。　　Meanwhile；　let　us　have　a　sip　of　tea。　The　afternoon　glow　is　brightening　the　bamboos；　the　fountains　are　bubbling　with　delight；　the　soughing　of　the　pines　is　heard　in　our　kettle。　　Let　us　dream　of　evanescence；　and　linger　in　the　beautiful　foolishness　of　things。



II。　The　Schools　of　Tea。


Tea　is　a　work　of　art　and　needs　a　master　hand　to　bring　out　its　noblest　qualities。　　We　have　good　and　bad　tea；　as　we　have　good　and　bad　paintingsgenerally　the　latter。　　There　is　no　single　recipe　for　making　the　perfect　tea；　as　there　are　no　rules　for　producing　a　Titian　or　a　Sesson。　　Each　preparation　of　the　leaves　has　its　individuality；　its　special　affinity　with　water　and　heat；　its　own　method　of　telling　a　story。　　The　truly　beautiful　must　always　be　in　it。　　How　much　do　we　not　suffer　through　the　constant　failure　of　society　to　recognise　this　simple　and　fundamental　law　of　art　and　life；　Lichilai；　a　Sung　poet；　has　sadly　remarked　that　there　were　three　most　deplorable　things　in　the　world：　the　spoiling　of　fine　youths　through　false　education；　the　degradation　of　fine　art　through　vulgar　admiration；　and　the　utter　waste　of　fine　tea　through　incompetent　manipulation。

Like　Art；　Tea　has　its　periods　and　its　schools。　　Its　evolution　may　be　roughly　divided　into　three　main　stages：　the　Boiled　Tea；　the　Whipped　Tea；　and　the　Steeped　Tea。　　We　moderns　belong　to　the　last　school。　　These　several　methods　of　appreciating　the　beverage　are　indicative　of　the　spirit　of　the　age　in　which　they　prevailed。　　For　life　is　an　expression；　our　unconscious　actions　the　constant　betrayal　of　our　innermost　thought。　Confucius　said　that　〃man　hideth　not。〃　Perhaps　we　reveal　ourselves　too　much　in　small　things　because　we　have　so　little　of　the　great　to　conceal。　　The　tiny　incidents　of　daily　routine　are　as　much　a　commentary　of　racial　ideals　as　the　highest　flight　of　philosophy　or　poetry。　　Even　as　the　difference　in　favorite　vintage　marks　the　separate　idiosyncrasies　of　different　periods　and　nationalities　of　Europe；　so　the　Tea…ideals　characterise　the　various　moods　of　Oriental　culture。　　The　Cake…tea　which　was　boiled；　the　Powdered…tea　which　was　whipped；　the　Leaf…tea　which　was　　steeped；　mark　the　distinct　emotional　impulses　of　the　Tang；　　the　Sung；　and　the　Ming　dynasties　of　China。　　If　we　were　　inclined　to　borrow　the　much…abused　terminology　of　art…classification；　we　might　designate　them　respectively；　the　Classic；　the　Romantic；　and　the　Naturalistic　schools　of　Tea。

The　tea…plant；　a　native　of　southern　China；　was　known　from　very　early　times　to　Chinese　botany　and　medicine。　　It　is　alluded　to　in　the　classics　under　the　various　names　of　Tou；　Tseh；　Chung；　Kha；　and　Ming；　and　was　highly　prized　for　possessing　the　　virtues　of　relieving　fatigue；　delighting　the　soul；　strengthening　the　will；　and　repairing　the　eyesight。　It　was　not　only　administered　as　an　internal　dose；　but　often　applied　externally　in　form　of　paste　to　alleviate　rheumatic　pains。　　The　Taoists　claimed　it　as　an　important　ingredient　of　the　elixir　of　immortality。　　The　Buddhists　used　it　extensively　to　prevent　drowsiness　during　their　long　hours　of　meditation。

By　the　fourth　and　fifth　centuries　Tea　became　a　favourite　beverage　among　the　inhabitants　of　the　Yangtse…Kiang　valley。　It　was　about　this　time　that　modern　ideograph　Cha　was　coined；　evidently　a　corruption　of　the　classic　Tou。　The　poets　of　the　southern　dynasties　have　left　some　fragments　of　their　fervent　adoration　of　the　〃froth　of　the　liquid　jade。〃　Then　emperors　used　to　bestow　some　rare　preparation　of　the　leaves　on　their　high　ministers　as　a　reward　for　eminent　services。　Yet　the　method　of　drinking　tea　at　this　stage　was　primitive　in　the　extreme。　　The　leaves　were　steamed；　crushed　in　a　mortar；　made　into　a　cake；　and　boiled　together　with　rice；　ginger；　salt；　orange　peel；　spices；　milk；　and　sometimes　with　onions！　The　custom　obtains　at　the　present　day　among　the　Thibetans　and　various　Mongolian　tribes；　who　make　a　curious　syrup　of　these　ingredients。　　The　use　of　lemon　slices　by　the　Russians；　who　learned　to　take　tea　from　the　Chinese　caravansaries；　points　to　the　survival　of　the　ancient　method。

It　needed　the　genius　of　the　Tang　dynasty　to　emancipate　Tea　from　its　crude　state　and　lead　to　its　final　idealization。　　With　Luwuh　in　the　middle　of　the　eighth　century　we　have　our　first　apostle　of　tea。　He　was　born　in　an　age　when　Buddhism；　Taoism；　and　Confucianism　were　seeking　mutual　synthesis。　The　pantheistic　symbolism　of　the　time　was　urging　one　to　mirror　the　Universal　in　the　Particular。　　Luwuh；　a　poet；　saw　in　the　Tea…service　the　same　harmony　and　order　which　reigned　through　all　things。　　In　his　celebrated　work；　the　〃Chaking〃　（The　Holy　Scripture　of　Tea）　he　formulated　the　Code　of　Tea。　He　has　since　been　worshipped　as　the　tutelary　god　of　the　Chinese　tea　merchants。

The　〃Chaking〃　consists　of　three　volumes　and　ten　chapters。　In　the　first　chapter　Luwuh　treats　of　the　nature　of　the　tea…plant；　in　the　second　of　the　implements　for　gathering　the　leaves；　in　the　third　of　the　selection　of　the　leaves。　　According　to　him　the　best　quality　of　the　leaves　must　have　〃creases　like　the　leathern　boot　of　Tartar　horsemen；　curl　like　the　dewlap　of　a　mighty　bullock；　unfold　like　a　mist　rising　out　of　a　ravine；　gleam　like　a　lake　touched　by　a　zephyr；　and　be　wet　and　soft　like　fine　earth　newly　swept　by　rain。〃

The　fourth　chapter　is　devoted　to　the　enumeration　and　description　of　the　twenty…four　members　of　the　tea…equipage；　beginning　with　the　tripod　brazier　and　ending　with　the　bamboo　cabinet　for　containing　all　these　utensils。　　Here　we　notice　Luwuh's　predilection　for　Taoist　symbolism。　Also　it　is　interesting　to　observe　in　this　connection　the　influence　of　tea　on　Chinese　ceramics。　　The　Celestial　porcelain；　as　is　well　known；　had　its　origin　in　an　attempt　to　reproduce　the　exquisite　shade　of　jade；　resulting；　in　the　Tang　dynasty；　in　the　blue　glaze　of　the　south；　and　the　white　glaze　of　the　north。　　Luwuh　considered　the　blue　as　the　ideal　colour　for　the　tea…cup；　as　it　lent　additional　greenness　to　the　beverage；　whereas　the　white　made　it　look　pinkish　and　distasteful。　　It　was　because　he　used　cake…tea。　　Later　on；　when　　the　tea　masters　of　Sung　took　to　the　powdered　tea；　they　preferred　heavy　bowls　of　blue…black　and　dark　brown。　　The　Mings；　with　　their　steeped　tea；　rejoiced　in　light　ware　of　white　porcelain。

In　the　fifth　chapter　Luwuh　describes　the　method　of　making　tea。　He　eliminates　all　ingredients　except　salt。　　He　dwells　also　on　the　much…discussed　question　of　the　choice　of　water　and　the　degree　of　boiling　it。　　According　to　him；　the　mountain　spring　is　the　best；　the　river　water　and　the　spring　water　come　next　in　the　order　of　excellence。　　There　are　three　stages　of　boiling：　the　first　boil　is　　when　the　little　bubbles　like　the　eye　of　fishes　swim　on　the　surface；　the　second　boil　is　when　the　bubbles　are　like　crystal　beads　rolling　in　a　fountain；　the　third　boil　is　when　the　billows　surge　wildly　in　the　kettle。　　The　Cake…tea　is　roasted　before　the　fire　until　it　becomes　soft　like　a　baby's　arm　and　is　shredded　into　powder　between　pieces　of　fine　paper。　　Salt　is　put　in　the　first　boil；　the　tea　in　the　second。　At　the　third　boil；　a　dipperful　of　cold　water　is　poured　into　the　kettle　to　settle　the　tea　and　revive　the　〃youth　of　the　water。〃　　Then　the　beverage　was　poured　into　cups　and　drunk。　　O　nectar！　　The　filmy　leaflet　hung　like　scaly　clouds　in　a　serene　sky　or　floated　like　waterlilies　on　emerald　streams。　　It　was　of　such　a　beverage　that　　Lotung；　a　Tang　poet；　wrote：　〃The　first　cup　moistens　my　lips　and　throat；　the　second　cup　breaks　my　loneliness；　the　third　cup　　searches　my　barren　entrail　but　to　find　therein　some　five　thousand　volumes　of　odd　ideographs。　　The　fourth　cup　raises　a　slight　perspiration；all　the　wrong　of　life　passes　away　through　my　pores。　　At　the　fifth　cup　I　am　purified；　the　sixth　cup　calls　me　to　the　realms　of　the　immortals。　　The　seventh　cupah；　but　I　could　take　no　more！　　I　only　feel　the　breath　of　cool　wind　that　rises　in　my　sleeves。　　Where　is　Horaisan？　　Let　me　ride　on　this　sweet　breeze　and　waft　away　thither。〃

The　remaining　chapters　of　the　〃Chaking〃　treat　of　the　vulgarity　of　the　ordinary　methods　of　tea…drinking；　a　historical　summary　of　illustrious　tea…drinkers；　the　famous　tea　plantations　of　　China；　the　possible　variations　of　the　tea…service　and　illustrations　of　the　tea…utensils。　　The　last　is　unfortunately　lost。

The　appearance　of　the　〃Chaking〃　must　have　created　　considerable　sensation　at　the　time。　　Luwuh　was　befriended　by　the　Emperor　Taisung　（763…779）；　and　his　fame　attracted　　many　followers。　　Some　exquisites　were　said　to　have　been　able　to　detect　the　tea　made　by　Luwuh　from　that　of　his　disciples。　One　mandarin　has　his　name　immortalised　by　his　failure　to　appreciate　the　tea　of　this　great　master。

In　the　Sung　dynasty　the　whipped　tea　came　into　fashion　and　created　the　second　school　of　Tea。　　The　leaves　were　ground　to　fine　powder　in　a　small　stone　mill；　and　the　preparation　was　whipped　in　hot　water　by　a　delicate　whisk　made　of　split　bamboo。　The　new　process　led　to　some　change　in　the　tea…equippage　of　Luwuh；　as　well　as　in　the　choice　of　le