first across the continent-第15章
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istance of his spontoon； he could stand with tolerable safety； when he heard a voice behind him cry out； ‘Good God； captain； what shall I do？' He turned instantly； and found it was Windsor； who had lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow pass； and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice； where he lay on his belly； with his right arm and leg over it； while with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty holding on； to keep himself from being dashed to pieces below。 His dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis； who； stifling his alarm； calmly told him that he was in no danger； that he should take his knife out of his belt with his right hand； and dig a hole in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot。 With great presence of mind he did this； and then raised himself on his knees。 Captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees； holding the knife in one hand and his rifle in the other。 He immediately crawled in this way till he came to a secure spot。 The men who had not attempted this passage were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of the bluff； where they found the water breast…high。 This adventure taught them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river； but as the plains were intersected by deep ravines； almost as difficult to pass； they continued down the river； sometimes in the mud of the low grounds； sometimes up to their arms in the water； and when it became too deep to wade； they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks。 In this way they travelled through the rain； mud； and water； and having made only eighteen miles during the whole day； camped in an old Indian lodge of sticks； which afforded them a dry shelter。 Here they cooked part of six deer they had killed in the course of their walk； and having eaten the only morsel they had tasted during the whole day； slept comfortably on some willow…boughs。〃
Chapter X
To the Great Falls of the Missouri
Next day； June 8； the Lewis party returned to the main body of the expedition。 They reported that timber was scarce along the river； except in the lowlands； where there were pretty groves and thickets。 These trees； the journal says； were the haunts of innumerable birds； which； as the sun rose； sung delightfully：
〃Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush； robin； turtle…dove； linnet； gold…finch； large and small blackbird； wren； and some others。 As they came along； the whole party were of opinion that this river was the true Missouri； but Captain Lewis； being fully persuaded that it was neither the main stream； nor that which it would be advisable to ascend； gave it the name of Maria's River。 After travelling all day they reached camp about five o'clock in the afternoon； and found Captain Clark and the party very anxious for their safety。 As they had stayed two days longer than had been expected； and as Captain Clark had returned at the appointed time； it was feared that they had met with some accident。〃
As we now know； the stream that came in from the north was that which is still called Maria's （or Marais） River； and the so…called branch from the southwest was the Missouri River。 Lewis and Clark； however； were in the dark as to the relations of the two streams。 Which was the parent？ Which was the branch？ After pondering all the evidence that could be collected to bear on the important question； the two captains agreed that the southern stream was the true Missouri； and the northern stream was an important branch。 The journal says：
〃These observations； which satisfied our minds completely； we communicated to the party； but every one of them was of a contrary opinion。 Much of their belief depended on Crusatte； an experienced waterman on the Missouri； who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was the genuine Missouri。 The men； therefore； mentioned that； although they would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct； yet they were afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky Mountains； and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia。 In order that nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into an error； it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch by land； until we reached either the falls or the mountains。 In the meantime； in order to lighten our burdens as much as possible； we determined to deposit here one of the pirogues； and all the heavy baggage which we could possibly spare； as well as some provision； salt； powder； and tools。 This would at once lighten the other boats； and give them the crew which had been employed on board the pirogue。〃
On the tenth of June； the weather being fair and pleasant； they dried all their baggage and merchandise and secreted them in places of deposits； called caches； as follows：
〃These depositsor caches； as they are called by the Missouri tradersare very common； particularly among those who deal with the Sioux； as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years； and are protected from robbery。 Our cache was built in the usual manner。 In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri； and forty yards from a steep bluff； we chose a dry situation； and then； describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter； removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible： the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep。 It was now worked gradually wider as it descended； till at length it became six or seven feet deep； shaped nearly like a kettle； or the lower part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre。 As the earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel； and carefully laid on a skin or cloth； in which it was carried away and thrown into the river； so as to leave no trace of it。 A floor of three or four inches in thickness was then made of dry sticks； on which was placed a hide perfectly dry。 The goods； being well aired and dried； were laid on this floor； and prevented from touching the wall by other dried sticks； as the merchandise was stowed away。 When the hole was nearly full； a skin was laid over the goods； and on this earth was thrown and beaten down； until； with the addition of the sod first removed； the whole was on a level with the ground； and there remained not the slightest appearance of an excavation。 In addition to this； we made another of smaller dimensions； in which we placed all the baggage； some powder； and our blacksmith's tools； having previously repaired such of the tools as we carry with us that require mending。 To guard against accident； we had two parcelss of lead and powder in the two places。 The red pirogue was drawn up on the middle of a small island； at the entrance of Maria's River； and secured； by being fastened to the trees； from the effects of any floods。 We now took another observation of the meridian altitude of the sun； and found that the mean latitude of Maria's River； as deduced from three observations； is 49'0 25' 17。2〃 N。〃
In order to make assurance doubly sure； Captain Lewis resolved to take four men with him and ascend the south branch （that is； the true Missouri）； before committing the expedition to that route as the final one。 His proposition was that his party should proceed up the river as rapidly as possible in advance of the main party。 On the second day out； says the journal：
〃Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep ravines； which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or two miles in the plain。 Having reached the open country he went for twelve miles in a course a little to the W。 of S。W。； when； the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock； he returned to the river in quest of water； and to kill something for breakfast； there being no water in the plain； and the buffalo； discovering them before they came within gunshot； took to flight。 They reached the banks in a handsome open low ground with cottonwood； after three miles' walk。 Here they saw two large brown bears； and killed them both at the first firea circumstance which has never before occurred since we have seen that animal。 Having made a meal of a part； and hung the remainder on a tree； with a note for Captain Clark； they again ascended the bluffs into the open plains。 Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing…squirrel； also some wolves； antelopes； mule…deer； and vast herds of buffalo。 They soon crossed a ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains； and from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains； which are now completely covered with snow。 Their general course is from S。E。 to N。 of N。W。； and they seem to consist of several ranges which successively rise above each other； till the most distant mingles with the clouds。 After travelling twelve miles they again met the river； where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood。〃
Again leaving the river； Captain Lewis bore off more to the north； the stream here bearing considerably to the south； with difficult bluffs along its course。 But fearful of passing the Great Falls before reaching the Rocky Mountains； he again changed his course and； leaving the bluffs to his right he turned towards the river。
The journal gives this description of what followed：
〃In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles； when his ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water； and as he advanced a spray； which seemed driven by the high southwest wind； arose above the plain like a column of smoke； and vanished in an instant。 Toward this point he directed his steps； the noise increased as he approached； and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything but the Great Falls of the Missouri。 Having travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound； he reached the falls about twelve o'clock。 The hills as he approached were difficult of access and two hundred feet high。 Down these he hurried with impatience； and； seating himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls； enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object； which since the creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon the desert； unknown to civilization。
〃The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide； and is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left； which rises to about one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile； on the right the bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls。 For ninety or one hundred yards from the left cliff； the water falls in one smooth； even sheet； over a precipice of at least eighty feet。 The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid current； but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below； forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam； two hundred yards in length and eighty in perpendicular elevation。 This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes； sometimes flying up in columns of fifteen or twenty feet； which are then oppressed by larger masses of the white foam； on all of which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow。 Below the fall the water beats with fury against a ledge of rocks； which extends across the river at one hundred and fifty yards from the precipice。 From the perpendicular cliff on
