first across the continent-第39章
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〃The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance of spirituous liquors； the earliest and most dreadful present which civilization has given to the other natives of the continent。 Although they have had so much intercourse with whites； they do not appear to possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries； at least they have never inquired after them； which they probably would have done if once liquors bad been introduced among them。 Indeed； we have not observed any liquor of intoxicating quality among these or any Indians west of the Rocky Mountains； the universal beverage being pure water。 They； however； sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco； of which they are excessively fond； and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as possible； by retaining vast quantities at a time； till after circulating through the lungs and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and nostrils。〃
A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February； before the final preparations for departure were made。 Parties were sent out every day to hunt； and the campers were able to command a few days' supply of provision in advance。 The flesh of the deer was now very lean and poor； but that of the elk was growing better and better。 It was estimated by one of the party that they killed； between December 1； 1805； and March 20； 1806； elk to the number of one hundred and thirty…one； and twenty deer。 Some of this meat they smoked for its better preservation； but most of it was eaten fresh。 No record was kept of the amount of fish consumed by the party； but they were obliged at times to make fish their sole article of diet。 Late in February they were visited by Comowool； the principal Clatsop chief； who brought them a sturgeon and quantities of a small fish which had just begun to make its appearance in the Columbia。 This was known as the anchovy； but oftener as the candle…fish； it is so fat that it may be burned like a torch； or candle。 The journal speaks of Comowool as 〃by far the most friendly and decent savage we have seen in this neighborhood。〃
Chapter XIX
With Faces turned Homeward
The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward march on the first of April； but a natural impatience induced them to start a little earlier； and； as a matter of record； it may be said that they evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March； 1806。 An examination of their stock of ammunition showed that they had on hand a supply of powder amply sufficient for their needs when travelling the three thousand miles of wilderness in which their sole reliance for food must be the game to be killed。 The powder was kept in leaden canisters； and these； when empty； were used for making balls for muskets and rifles。 Three bushels of salt were collected for their use on the homeward journey。
What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares and trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they must spend so many months before reaching civilization again。 They had ample letters of credit from the Government at Washington； and if they had met with white traders on the seacoast； they could have bought anything that money would buy。 They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across the continent。 This is Captain Lewis's summary of the goods on hand just before leaving Fort Clatsop：
〃All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up in a couple of handkerchiefs。 The rest of our stock in trade consists of six blue robes； one scarlet ditto； five robes which we made out of our large United States flag； a few old clothes trimmed with ribbons； and one artillerist's uniform coat and hat； which probably Captain Clark will never wear again。 We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for the purchase of such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to obtain a scant dependence； indeed； for such a journey as is before us。〃
One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members of the party； and； making several copies of it； to leave these among the friendly Indians with instructions to give a paper to the first white men who should arrive in the country。 On the back of the paper was traced the track by which the explorers had come and that by which they expected to return。 This is a copy of one of these important documents：
〃The object of this list is； that through the medium of some civilized person who may see the same； it may be made known to the informed world； that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed； and who were sent out by the government of the U'States in May； 1804； to explore the interior of the Continent of North America； did penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers； to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean； where they arrived on the 14th of November； 1805； and from whence they departed the 23d day of March； 1806； on their return to the United States by the same rout they had come out。〃
Curiously enough； one of these papers did finally reach the United States。 During the summer of 1806； the brig 〃Lydia；〃 Captain Hill； entered the Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives。 From one of these Captain Hill secured the paper； which he took to Canton； China； in January； 1807。 Thence it was sent to a gentleman in Philadelphia； having travelled nearly all the way round the world。
Fort Clatsop； as they called the rude collection of huts in which they had burrowed all winter； with its rude furniture and shelters； was formally given to Comowool； the Clatsop chief who had been so kind to the party。 Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this establishment； knowing that it was to be abandoned in the spring。
The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o'clock in the day； and； after making sixteen miles up the river； camped for the night。 Next day； they reached an Indian village where they purchased 〃some wappatoo and a dog for the invalids。〃 They still had several men on the sick list in consequence of the hard fare of the winter。 The weather was cold and wet； and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain。 In a few days they found themselves among their old friends； the Skilloots； who had lately been at war with the Chinooks。 There was no direct intercourse between the two nations as yet； but the Chinooks traded with the Clatsops and Wahkiacums； and these in turn traded with the Skilloots； and in this way the two hostile tribes exchanged the articles which they had for those which they desired。 The journal has this to say about the game of an island on which the explorers tarried for a day or two； in order to dry their goods and mend their canoes：
〃This island； which has received from the Indians the appropriate name of Elalah ＇Elallah＇； or Deer Island； is surrounded on the water…side by an abundant growth of cottonwood； ash； and willow； while the interior consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds。 These afford refuge to great numbers of geese； ducks； large swan； sandhill cranes； a few canvas…backed ducks； and particularly the duckinmallard； the most abundant of all。 There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our garter…snakes in appearance； and like them not poisonous。 Our hunters brought in three deer； a goose； some ducks； an eagle； and a tiger…cat。 Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures； that they had devoured in the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning； and one of our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about thirty yards； skinned it； and broken the backbone。〃
The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor； a great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens are ever seen； and the eggs command a great price from those who make collections of such objects。 A condor killed by one of the hunters of the Lewis and Clark expedition measured nine feet and six inches from tip to tip of its wings； three feet and ten inches from the point of the bill to the end of the tail； and six inches and a half from the back of the head to the tip of the beak。 Very few of the condors of the Andes are much larger than this； though one measuring eleven feet from tip to tip has been reported。
While camped at Quicksand； or Sandy River； the party learned that food supplies up the Columbia were scarce。 The journal says that the Indians met here were descending the river in search of food。 It adds：
〃They told us； that they lived at the Great Rapids； but that the scarcity of provisions there had induced them to come down； in the hopes of finding subsistence in the more fertile valley。 All the people living at the Rapids； as well as the nations above them； were in much distress for want of food； having consumed their winter store of dried fish； and not expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon； which would be on the second of May： this information was not a little embarrassing。 From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation； the plains afforded neither deer； elk； nor antelope for our subsistence。 The horses were very poor at this season； and the dogs must be in the same condition； if their food； the dried fish； had failed。 Still； it was obviously inexpedient for us to wait for the return of the salmon； since in that case we might not reach the Missouri before the ice would prevent our navigating it。 We might； besides； hazard the loss of our horses； as the Chopunnish； with whom we had left them； would cross the mountains as early as possible； or about the beginning of May； and take our horses with them； or suffer them to disperse； in either of which cases the passage of the mountains will be almost impracticable。 We therefore； after much deliberation； decided to remain where we were till we could collect meat enough to last us till we should reach the Chopunnish nation； and to obtain canoes from the natives as we ascended； either in exchange for our pirogues； or by purchasing them with skins and merchandise。 These canoes； again； we might exchange for horses with the natives of the plains； till we should obtain enough to travel altogether by land。 On reaching the southeast branch of the Columbia； four or five men could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses in readiness； and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient both to transport our baggage and supply us with food； as we now perceived that they would form our only certain dependance for subsistence。〃
On the third of April this entry is made：
〃A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to…day； many of whom came from the upper part of the river。 These poor wretches confirm the reports of scarcity among the nations above； which； indeed； their appearance sufficiently proved； for they seemed almost starved； and greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us。
〃In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion。 On setting out yesterday at half…past eleven o'clock； he directed his course along the south side of the ＇Columbia＇ river； where； at the distance of eight miles； he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe； belonging to the Eloot nation。 The village itself is small； and being situated behind Diamond Island； was concealed from our view as we passed both times
