essays-1-第32章
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l expence； were the system of feeding them adopted which is here proposed。 The amount of that expence would be as follows：
Pence。 Farths。 For breakfast； 20 ounces of the Soup No； II。 composed of pearl barley； peas； potatoes； and fine wheaten bread （See page 210。） 0 2 1/2 For dinner； 20 ounces of the same Soup； and 7 ounces of rye…bread 。。。 。。。 。。。 。。。 1 2 For supper； 20 ounces of the same Soup 。。。 0 2 1/2 In all 4 lb。 3 oz。 of Food＇12＇； which would cost 2 3
Should it be thought necessary to give a little meat at dinner； this may best be done by mixing it； cut fine； or minced； in bread dumplins； or when bacon； or any kind of salted or smoked meat is given； to cut it fine and mix it with the bread which is eaten in the soup。 If the bread be fried； the Food will be much improved； but this will be attended with some additional expence。 Rye…bread is as good； if not better； for frying； than bread made of wheat flour； and it is commonly not half so dear。 Perhaps rye…bread fried might be furnished almost as cheap as wheaten bread not fried； and if this could be done； it would certainly be a very great improvement。
There is another way by which these cheap soups may be made exceedingly palatable and savoury；which is by mixing with them a very small quantity of red herrings； minced very fine or pounded in a mortar。There is no kind of cheap Food； I believe； that has so much taste as red herrings； or that communicates its flavour with so much liberality to other eatables； and to most palates it is remarkably agreeable。
Cheese may likewise be made use of for giving an agreeable relish to these soups； and a very small quantity of it will be sufficient for that purpose； provided it has a strong taste； and is properly applied。It should be grated to a powder with a grater； and a small quantity of this powder thrown over the soup； AFTER IT IS DISHED OUT。This is frequently done at the sumptuous tables of the rich； and is thought a great delicacy； while the Poor； who have so few enjoyments； have not been taught to avail themselves of this； which is so much within their reach。
Those whole avocations call them to visit distant countries； and those whose fortune enables them to travel for their amusement or improvement； have many opportunities of acquiring useful information； and in consequence of this intercourse with strangers； many improvements； and more REFINEMENTS； have been introduced into this country； but the most important advantages that MIGHT be derived from an intimate knowledge of the manners and customs of differing nations；the introduction of improvements tending to facilitate the means of subsistence； and to increase the comforts and conveniences of the most necessitous and most numerous classes of society；have been； alas！ little attended to。 Our extensive commerce enables us to procure； and we do actually import most of the valuable commodities which are the produce either of the foil of the ocean； or of the industry of man in all the various regions of the habitable globe；but the result of the EXPERIENCE OF AGES respecting the use that can be made of those commodities has seldom been thought worth importing！ I never see maccaroni in England； or polenta in Germany； upon the tables of the rich； without lamenting that cheap and wholesome luxuries should be monopolized by those who stand least in need of them； while the Poor； who； one would think； ought to be considered as having almost an EXCLUSIVE right to them； （as they were both invented by the Poor of a neighbouring nation；） are kept in perfect ignorance of them。
But these two kinds of Food are so palatable； wholesome； and nourishing； and may be provided so easily； and at so very cheap a rate in all countries； and particularly in Great Britain； that I think I cannot do better than to devote a few pages to the examination of them；and I shall begin with Polenta； or Indian corn； as it is called in this country。
CHAPTER。 VI。
Of INDIAN CORN。 It affords the cheapest and most nourishing food known。 Proofs that it is more nourishing than rice。 Different ways of preparing or cooking it。 Computation of the expense of feeding a person with it； founded on experiment。 Approved Receipt for making an INDIAN PUDDING。
I cannot help increasing the length of this Essay much beyond the bounds I originally assigned to it； in order to have an opportunity of recommending a kind of Food which I believe to be beyond comparison the most nourishing； cheapest； and most wholesome that can be procured for feeding the Poor。This is Indian Corn； a most valuable production； and which grows in almost all climates； and though it does not succeed remarkably well in Great Britain； and in some parts of Germany； yet it may easily be had in great abundance； from other countries； and commonly at a very low rate。
The common people in the northern parts of Italy live almost entirely upon it； and throughout the whole Continent of America it makes a principal article of Food。In Italy it is called Polenta； where it is prepared or cooked in a variety of ways； and forms the basis of a number of very nourishing dishes。 The most common way however of using it in that country is to grind it into meal； and with water to make it into a thick kind of pudding； like what in this country is called a hasty…pudding； which is eaten with various kinds of sauce； and sometimes without any sauce。
In the northern parts of North America； the common household bread throughout the country is composed of one part of Indian meal and one part of rye meal； and I much doubt whether a more wholesome； or more nourishing kind of bread can be made。
Rice is universally allowed to be very nourishing；much more so even than wheat； but there is a circumstance well known to all those who are acquainted with the details of feeding the negro slaves in the southern states of North America； and in the West Indies； that would seem to prove； in a very decisive and satisfactory manner； that INDIAN CORN IS EVEN MORE NOURISHING THAN RICE。In those countries； where rice and Indian Corn are both produced in the greatest abundance； the negroes have frequently had their option between these two kinds of Food； and have invariably preferred the latter。The reasons they give for this preference they express in strong； though not in very delicate terms。They say that 〃Rice turns to water in their bellies； and runs off；〃but 〃Indian Corn stays with them； and makes strong to work。〃
This account of the preference which negroes give to Indian Corn for Food； and of their reasons for this preference； was communicated to me by two gentlemen of most respectable character； well known in England； and now resident in London； who were formerly planters； one in Georgia； and the other in Jamaica。
The nutritive quantity which Indian Corn possessed； in a most eminent degree； when employed for fattening hogs and poultry； and for giving strength to working oxen； has long been universally known and acknowledged in every part of North America； and nobody in that country thinks of employing any other grain for those purposes。
All these facts prove to a demonstration that India Corn possesses very extraordinary nutritive powers； and it is well known that there is no species of grain that can be had so cheap； or in so great abundance；it is therefore well worthy the attention of those who are engaged in providing cheap and wholesome Food for the Poor；or in taking measures for warding off the evils which commonly attend a general scarcity of provisions； to consider in time； how this useful article of Food may be procured in large quantities； and how the introduction of it into common use can be most easily be effected。
In regard to the manner of using Indian Corn； there are a vast variety of different ways in which it may be prepared； or cooked； in order to its being used as Food。One simple and obvious way of using it； is to mix it with wheat； rye； or barley meal； in making bread； but when it is used for making bread； and particularly when it is mixed with wheat flour； it will greatly improve the quality of the bread if the Indian meal； （the coarser part of the bran being first separated from it by sifting；） be previously mixed with water； and boiled for a considerable length of time；two or three hours for instance； over a slow fire； before the other meal or flour is added to it。This boiling； which； if the proper quantity of water is employed； will bring the mass to the consistency of a thin pudding； will effectually remove a certain disagreeable RAW TASTE in the Indian Corn； which simple baking will not entirely take away； and the wheat flour being mixed with this pudding after it has been taken from the fire and cooked； and the whole well kneaded together； may be made to rise； and be formed into loaves； and baked into bread； with the same facility that bread is made of wheat flour alone； or of any mixtures of different kinds of meal。
When the Indian meal is previously prepared by boiling； in the manner here described； a most excellent； and very palatable kind of bread； not inferior to wheaten bread； may be made of equal parts of this meal and of common wheat flour。
But the most simple； and I believe the best； and most economical way of employing Indian Corn as Food； is to make it into puddings。There is； as I have already observed； a certain rawness in the taste of it； which nothing but long boiling can remove； but when that disagreeable taste is removed； it becomes extremely palatable； and that it is remarkably wholesome； has been proved by so much experience that no doubts can possibly be entertained of that fact。
The culture of it required more labour than most other kinds of grain； but； on the other hand； the produce is very abundant； and it is always much cheaper than either wheat or rye。 The price of it in the Carolinas； and in Georgia； has often been as low as eighteen pence； and sometimes as one shilling sterling per bushel；but the Indian Corn which is grown in those southern states is much inferior； both in weight and in its qualities； to that which is the produce of colder climates。Indian Corn of the growth of Canada； and the New England states； which is generally thought to be worth twenty per cent。 more per bushel than that which is grown in the southern states； may commonly be bought for two and sixpence； or three shillings a bushel。
It is now three shillings and sixpence a bushel at Boston； but the prices of provisions of all kinds have been much raised of late in all parts of America； owing to the uncommonly high prices which are paid for them in the European markets since the commencement of the present war。
Indian Corn and rye are very nearly of the same weight； but the former gives rather more flour； when ground and sifted； than the latter。I find by a report of the Board of Agriculture； of the 10th of November 1795； that three bushels of Indian Corn weighed 1 cwt。 1 qr。 18 lb。 （or 53 lb。 each bushel）； and gave 1 cwt。 20 lb。 of flour and 26 lb。 of bran； while three bushels of rye； weighing 1 cwt。 1 qr。 22 lb。 （or 54 lb。 the bushel）； gave only 1 cwt。 17 lb。 of flour and 28 lb。 o
