roughing it-第14章

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in　the　sun　on　stately　domes　in　the　distance　and　knew　the　month　was　August
and　that　my　coat　was　hanging　up　because　it　was　too　warm　to　wear　it；　I　was
full　as　much　amazed　as　if　I　never　had　heard　of　snow　in　August　before。
Truly；　〃seeing　is　believing〃and　many　a　man　lives　a　long　life　through；
thinking　he　believes　certain　universally　received　and　well　established
things；　and　yet　never　suspects　that　if　he　were　confronted　by　those　things
once；　he　would　discover　that　he　did　not　really　believe　them　before；　but
only　thought　he　believed　them。

In　a　little　while　quite　a　number　of　peaks　swung　into　view　with　long　claws
of　glittering　snow　clasping　them；　and　with　here　and　there；　in　the　shade；
down　the　mountain　side；　a　little　solitary　patch　of　snow　looking　no　larger
than　a　lady's　pocket…handkerchief　but　being　in　reality　as　large　as　a
〃public　square。〃

And　now；　at　last；　we　were　fairly　in　the　renowned　SOUTH　PASS；　and　whirling
gayly　along　high　above　the　common　world。　　We　were　perched　upon　the
extreme　summit　of　the　great　range　of　the　Rocky　Mountains；　toward　which　we
had　been　climbing；　patiently　climbing；　ceaselessly　climbing；　for　days　and
nights　togetherand　about　us　was　gathered　a　convention　of　Nature's　kings
that　stood　ten；　twelve；　and　even　thirteen　thousand　feet　highgrand　old
fellows　who　would　have　to　stoop　to　see　Mount　Washington；　in　the　twilight。
We　were　in　such　an　airy　elevation　above　the　creeping　populations　of　the
earth；　that　now　and　then　when　the　obstructing　crags　stood　out　of　the　way
it　seemed　that　we　could　look　around　and　abroad　and　contemplate　the　whole
great　globe；　with　its　dissolving　views　of　mountains；　seas　and　continents
stretching　away　through　the　mystery　of　the　summer　haze。

As　a　general　thing　the　Pass　was　more　suggestive　of　a　valley　than　a
suspension　bridge　in　the　cloudsbut　it　strongly　suggested　the　latter　at
one　spot。　　At　that　place　the　upper　third　of　one　or　two　majestic　purple
domes　projected　above　our　level　on　either　hand　and　gave　us　a　sense　of　a
hidden　great　deep　of　mountains　and　plains　and　valleys　down　about　their
bases　which　we　fancied　we　might　see　if　we　could　step　to　the　edge　and　look
over。　　These　Sultans　of　the　fastnesses　were　turbaned　with　tumbled　volumes
of　cloud；　which　shredded　away　from　time　to　time　and　drifted　off　fringed
and　torn；　trailing　their　continents　of　shadow　after　them；　and　catching
presently　on　an　intercepting　peak；　wrapped　it　about　and　brooded　there
then　shredded　away　again　and　left　the　purple　peak；　as　they　had　left　the
purple　domes；　downy　and　white　with　new…laid　snow。　　In　passing；　these
monstrous　rags　of　cloud　hung　low　and　swept　along　right　over　the
spectator's　head；　swinging　their　tatters　so　nearly　in　his　face　that　his
impulse　was　to　shrink　when　they　came　closet。　　In　the　one　place　I　speak
of；　one　could　look　below　him　upon　a　world　of　diminishing　crags　and
canyons　leading　down；　down；　and　away　to　a　vague　plain　with　a　thread　in　it
which　was　a　road；　and　bunches　of　feathers　in　it　which　were　trees；a
pretty　picture　sleeping　in　the　sunlightbut　with　a　darkness　stealing
over　it　and　glooming　its　features　　deeper　and　deeper　under　the　frown　of　a
coming　storm；　and　then；　while　no　film　or　shadow　marred　the　noon
brightness　of　his　high　perch；　he　could　watch　the　tempest　break　forth　down
there　and　see　the　lightnings　leap　from　crag　to　crag　and　the　sheeted　rain
drive　along　the　canyon…sides；　and　hear　the　thunders　peal　and　crash　and
roar。　　We　had　this　spectacle；　a　familiar　one　to　many；　but　to　us　a
novelty。

We　bowled　along　cheerily；　and　presently；　at　the　very　summit　（though　it
had　been　all　summit　to　us；　and　all　equally　level；　for　half　an　hour　or
more）；　we　came　to　a　spring　which　spent　its　water　through　two　outlets　and
sent　it　in　opposite　directions。　　The　conductor　said　that　one　of　those
streams　which　we　were　looking　at；　was　just　starting　on　a　journey　westward
to　the　Gulf　of　California　and　the　Pacific　Ocean；　through　hundreds　and
even　thousands　of　miles　of　desert　solitudes。　　He　said　that　the　other　was
just　leaving　its　home　among　the　snow…peaks　on　a　similar　journey　eastward
and　we　knew　that　long　after　we　should　have　forgotten　the　simple　rivulet
it　would　still　be　plodding　its　patient　way　down　the　mountain　sides；　and
canyon…beds；　and　between　the　banks　of　the　Yellowstone；　and　by　and　by
would　join　the　broad　Missouri　and　flow　through　unknown　plains　and　deserts
and　unvisited　wildernesses；　and　add　a　long　and　troubled　pilgrimage　among
snags　and　wrecks　and　sandbars；　and　enter　the　Mississippi；　touch　the
wharves　of　St。　Louis　and　still　drift　on；　traversing　shoals　and　rocky
channels；　then　endless　chains　of　bottomless　and　ample　bends；　walled　with
unbroken　forests；　then　mysterious　byways　and　secret　passages　among　woody
islands；　then　the　chained　bends　again；　bordered　with　wide　levels　of
shining　sugar…cane　in　place　of　the　sombre　forests；　then　by　New　Orleans
and　still　other　chains　of　bendsand　finally；　after　two　long　months　of
daily　and　nightly　harassment；　excitement；　enjoyment；　adventure；　and　awful
peril　of　parched　throats；　pumps　and　evaporation；　pass　the　Gulf　and　enter
into　its　rest　upon　the　bosom　of　the　tropic　sea；　never　to　look　upon　its
snow…peaks　again　or　regret　them。

I　freighted　a　leaf　with　a　mental　message　for　the　friends　at　home；　and
dropped　it　in　the　stream。　　But　I　put　no　stamp　on　it　and　it　was　held　for
postage　somewhere。

On　the　summit　we　overtook　an　emigrant　train　of　many　wagons；　many　tired
men　and　women；　and　many　a　disgusted　sheep　and　cow。

In　the　wofully　dusty　horseman　in　charge　of　the　expedition　I　recognized
John　…。　　Of　all　persons　in　the　world　to　meet　on　top　of　the　Rocky
Mountains　thousands　of　miles　from　home；　he　was　the　last　one　I　should　have
looked　for。　　We　were　school…boys　together　and　warm　friends　for　years。
But　a　boyish　prank　of　mine　had　disruptured　this　friendship　and　it　had
never　been　renewed。　　The　act　of　which　I　speak　was　this。　　I　had　been
accustomed　to　visit　occasionally　an　editor　whose　room　was　in　the　third
story　of　a　building　and　overlooked　the　street。　　One　day　this　editor　gave
me　a　watermelon　which　I　made　preparations　to　devour　on　the　spot；　but
chancing　to　look　out　of　the　window；　I　saw　John　standing　directly　under　it
and　an　irresistible　desire　came　upon　me　to　drop　the　melon　on　his　head；
which　I　immediately　did。　　I　was　the　loser；　for　it　spoiled　the　melon；　and
John　never　forgave　me　and　we　dropped　all　intercourse　and　parted；　but　now
met　again　under　these　circumstances。

We　recognized　each　other　simultaneously；　and　hands　were　grasped　as　warmly
as　if　no　coldness　had　ever　existed　between　us；　and　no　allusion　was　made
to　any。　　All　animosities　were　buried　and　the　simple　fact　of　meeting　a
familiar　face　in　that　isolated　spot　so　far　from　home；　was　sufficient　to
make　us　forget　all　things　but　pleasant　ones；　and　we　parted　again　with
sincere　〃good…bye〃　and　〃God　bless　you〃　from　both。

We　had　been　climbing　up　the　long　shoulders　of　the　Rocky　Mountains　for
many　tedious　hourswe　started　down　them；　now。　　And　we　went　spinning　away
at　a　round　rate　too。

We　left　the　snowy　Wind　River　Mountains　and　Uinta　Mountains　behind；　and
sped　away；　always　through　splendid　scenery　but　occasionally　through　long
ranks　of　white　skeletons　of　mules　and　oxenmonuments　of　the　huge
emigration　of　other　daysand　here　and　there　were　up…ended　boards　or
small　piles　of　stones　which　the　driver　said　marked　the　resting…place　of
more　precious　remains。

It　was　the　loneliest　land　for　a　grave！　　A　land　given　over　to　the　cayote
and　the　ravenwhich　is　but　another　name　for　desolation　and　utter
solitude。　　On　damp；　murky　nights；　these　scattered　skeletons　gave　forth　a
soft；　hideous　glow；　like　very　faint　spots　of　moonlight　starring　the　vague
desert。　　It　was　because　of　the　phosphorus　in　the　bones。　　But　no
scientific　explanation　could　keep　a　body　from　shivering　when　he　drifted
by　one　of　those　ghostly　lights　and　knew　that　a　skull　held　it。

At　midnight　it　began　to　rain；　and　I　never　saw　anything　like　itindeed；　I
did　not　even　see　this；　for　it　was　too　dark。　　We　fastened　down　the
curtains　and　even　caulked　them　with　clothing；　but　the　rain　streamed　in　in
twenty　places；　nothwithstanding。　　There　was　no　escape。　　If　one　moved　his
feet　out　of　a　stream；　he　brought　his　body　under　one；　and　if　he　moved　his
body　he　caught　one　somewhere　else。　　If　he　struggled　out　of　the　drenched
blankets　and　sat　up；　he　was　bound　to　get　one　down　the　back　of　his　neck。
Meantime　the　stage　was　wandering　about　a　plain　with　gaping　gullies　in　it；
for　the　driver　could　not　see　an　inch　before　his　face　nor　keep　the　road；
and　the　storm　pelted　so　pitilessly　that　there　was　no　keeping　the　horses
still。　　With　the　first　abatement　the　conductor　turned　out　with　lanterns
to　look　for　the　road；　and　the　first　dash　he　made　was　into　a　chasm　about
fourteen　feet　deep；　his　lantern　following　like　a　meteor。　　As　soon　as　he
touched　bottom　he　sang　out　frantically：

〃Don't　come　here！〃

To　which　the　driver；　who　was　looking　over　the　precipice　where　he　had
disappeared；　replied；　with　an　injured　air：　〃Think　I'm　a　dam　fool？〃

The　conductor　was　more　than　an　hour　finding　the　roada　matter　which
showed　us　how　far　we　had　wandered　and　what　chances　we　had　been　taking。
He　traced　our　wheel…tracks　to　the　imminent　verge　of　danger；　in　two
places。　　I　have　always　been　glad　that　we　were　not　killed　that　night。
I　do　not　know　any　particular　reason；　but　I　have　always　been　glad。
In　the　morning；　the　tenth　day　out；　we　crossed　Green　River；　a　fine；　large；
limpid　streamstuck　in　it　with　the　water　just　up　to　the　top　of　our　mail…
bed；　and　waited　till　extra　teams　were　put　on　to　haul　us　up　the　steep
bank。　　But　it　was　nice　cool　water；　and　besides　it　could　not　find　any
fresh　place　on　us　to　wet。

At　the　Green　River　station　we　had　breakfasthot　biscuits；　fresh　antelope
steaks；　and　coffeethe　only　decent　meal　we　tasted　between　the　United
States　and　Great　Salt　Lake　City；　and　the　only　one　we　were　ever　really
thankful　for。

Think　of　the　monotonous　execrableness　of　the　thirty　that　went　before　it；
to　leave　this　one　simple　breakfast　looming　up　in　my　memory　like　a　shot…
tower　after　all　these　years　have　gone　by！

At　five　P。M。　　we　reached　Fort　Bridger；　one　hundred　and　seventeen　miles
from　the　South　Pass；　and　one　thousand　and　twenty…five　miles　from　St。
Joseph。　　Fifty…two　miles　further　on；　near　the　head　of　Echo　Canyon；　we　met
sixty　United　States　soldiers　from　Camp　Floyd。　　The　day　before；　they　had
fired　upon　three　hundred　or　four　hundred　Indians；　whom　they　supposed
gathered　together　for　no　good　purpose。　　In　the　fight　that　had　ensued；
four　Indians　were　captured；　and　the　main　body　chased　four　miles；　but
nobody　killed。　　This　looked　like　business。　　We　had　a　notion　to　get　out
and　join　the　sixty　soldiers；　but　upon　reflecting　that　there　were　four
hundred　of　the　Indians；　we　concluded　to　go　on　and　join　the　Indians。

Echo　Canyon　is　twenty　miles　long。　　It　was　like　a　long；　smooth；　narrow
street；　with　a　gradual　descending　grade；　and　shut　in　by　enormous
perpendicular　walls　of　coarse　conglomerate；　four　hundred　feet　high　in
many　places；　and　turreted　like　mediaeval　castles。　　This　was　the　most
faultless　piece　of　road　in　the　mountains；　and　the　driver　said　he　would
〃let　his　team　out。〃　　He　did；　and　if　the　Pacific　express　trains　whiz
through　there　now　any　faster　than　we　did　then　in