roughing it-第66章

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and　temples；　stand　all　the　expenses；　of　whatever　kind；　take　kicks　and
cuffs　for　thanks；　drag　out　lives　well　flavored　with　misery；　and　then
suffer　death　for　trifling　offences　or　yield　up　their　lives　on　the
sacrificial　altars　to　purchase　favors　from　the　gods　for　their　hard
rulers。　　The　missionaries　have　clothed　them；　educated　them；　broken　up　the
tyrannous　authority　of　their　chiefs；　and　given　them　freedom　and　the　right
to　enjoy　whatever　their　hands　and　brains　produce　with　equal　laws　for　all；
and　punishment　for　all　alike　who　transgress　them。　　The　contrast　is　so
strongthe　benefit　conferred　upon　this　people　by　the　missionaries　is　so
prominent；　so　palpable　and　so　unquestionable；　that　the　frankest
compliment　I　can　pay　them；　and　the　best；　is　simply　to　point　to　the
condition　of　the　Sandwich　Islanders　of　Captain　Cook's　time；　and　their
condition　to…day。

Their　work　speaks　for　itself。




CHAPTER　LXV。

By　and　by；　after　a　rugged　climb；　we　halted　on　the　summit　of　a　hill　which
commanded　a　far…reaching　view。　　The　moon　rose　and　flooded　mountain　and
valley　and　ocean　with　a　mellow　radiance；　and　out　of　the　shadows　of　the
foliage　the　distant　lights　of　Honolulu　glinted　like　an　encampment　of
fireflies。　　The　air　was　heavy　with　the　fragrance　of　flowers。　　The　halt
was　brief。Gayly　laughing　and　talking；　the　party　galloped　on；　and　I
clung　to　the　pommel　and　cantered　after。　　Presently　we　came　to　a　place
where　no　grass　grewa　wide　expanse　of　deep　sand。　　They　said　it　was　an
old　battle　ground。　　All　around　everywhere；　not　three　feet　apart；　the
bleached　bones　of　men　gleamed　white　in　the　moonlight。　　We　picked　up　a　lot
of　them　for　mementoes。　　I　got　quite　a　number　of　arm　bones　and　leg　bones
of　great　chiefs；　may　be；　who　had　fought　savagely　in　that　fearful　battle
in　the　old　days；　when　blood　flowed　like　wine　where　we　now　stoodand　wore
the　choicest　of　them　out　on　Oahu　afterward；　trying　to　make　him　go。　　All
sorts　of　bones　could　be　found　except　skulls；　but　a　citizen　said；
irreverently；　that　there　had　been　an　unusual　number　of　〃skull…hunters〃
there　latelya　species　of　sportsmen　I　had　never　heard　of　before。

Nothing　whatever　is　known　about　this　placeits　story　is　a　secret　that
will　never　be　revealed。　　The　oldest　natives　make　no　pretense　of　being
possessed　of　its　history。　　They　say　these　bones　were　here　when　they　were
children。　　They　were　here　when　their　grandfathers　were　childrenbut　how
they　came　here；　they　can　only　conjecture。　　Many　people　believe　this　spot
to　be　an　ancient　battle…ground；　and　it　is　usual　to　call　it　so；　and　they
believe　that　these　skeletons　have　lain　for　ages　just　where　their
proprietors　fell　in　the　great　fight。　　Other　people　believe　that
Kamehameha　I。　　fought　his　first　battle　here。　　On　this　point；　I　have　heard
a　story；　which　may　have　been　taken　from　one　of　the　numerous　books　which
have　been　written　concerning　these　islandsI　do　not　know　where　the
narrator　got　it。　　He　said　that　when　Kamehameha　（who　was　at　first　merely　a
subordinate　chief　on　the　island　of　Hawaii）；　landed　here；　he　brought　a
large　army　with　him；　and　encamped　at　Waikiki。　　The　Oahuans　marched
against　him；　and　so　confident　were　they　of　success　that　they　readily
acceded　to　a　demand　of　their　priests　that　they　should　draw　a　line　where
these　bones　now　lie；　and　take　an　oath　that；　if　forced　to　retreat　at　all；
they　would　never　retreat　beyond　this　boundary。　　The　priests　told　them
that　death　and　everlasting　punishment　would　overtake　any　who　violated　the
oath；　and　the　march　was　resumed。　　Kamehameha　drove　them　back　step　by
step；　the　priests　fought　in　the　front　rank　and　exhorted　them　both　by
voice　and　inspiriting　example　to　remember　their　oathto　die；　if　need　be；
but　never　cross　the　fatal　line。　　The　struggle　was　manfully　maintained；
but　at　last　the　chief　priest　fell；　pierced　to　the　heart　with　a　spear；　and
the　unlucky　omen　fell　like　a　blight　upon　the　brave　souls　at　his　back；
with　a　triumphant　shout　the　invaders　pressed　forwardthe　line　was
crossedthe　offended　gods　deserted　the　despairing　army；　and；　accepting
the　doom　their　perjury　had　brought　upon　them；　they　broke　and　fled　over
the　plain　where　Honolulu　stands　nowup　the　beautiful　Nuuanu　Valley
paused　a　moment；　hemmed　in　by　precipitous　mountains　on　either　hand　and
the　frightful　precipice　of　the　Pari　in　front；　and　then　were　driven　over
a　sheer　plunge　of　six　hundred　feet！

The　story　is　pretty　enough；　but　Mr。　Jarves'　excellent　history　says　the
Oahuans　were　intrenched　in　Nuuanu　Valley；　that　Kamehameha　ousted　them；
routed　them；　pursued　them　up　the　valley　and　drove　them　over　the
precipice。　　He　makes　no　mention　of　our　bone…yard　at　all　in　his　book。

Impressed　by　the　profound　silence　and　repose　that　rested　over　the
beautiful　landscape；　and　being；　as　usual；　in　the　rear；　I　gave　voice　to　my
thoughts。　　I　said：

〃What　a　picture　is　here　slumbering　in　the　solemn　glory　of　the　moon！　　How
strong　the　rugged　outlines　of　the　dead　volcano　stand　out　against　the
clear　sky！　　What　a　snowy　fringe　marks　the　bursting　of　the　surf　over　the
long；　curved　reef！　　How　calmly　the　dim　city　sleeps　yonder　in　the　plain！
How　soft　the　shadows　lie　upon　the　stately　mountains　that　border　the
dream…haunted　Mauoa　Valley！　　What　a　grand　pyramid　of　billowy　clouds
towers　above　the　storied　Pari！　　How　the　grim　warriors　of　the　past　seem
flocking　in　ghostly　squadrons　to　their　ancient　battlefield　againhow　the
wails　of　the　dying　well　up　from　the〃

At　this　point　the　horse　called　Oahu　sat　down　in　the　sand。　　Sat　down　to
listen；　I　suppose。　　Never　mind　what　he　heard；　I　stopped　apostrophising
and　convinced　him　that　I　was　not　a　man　to　allow　contempt　of　Court　on　the
part　of　a　horse。　　I　broke　the　back…bone　of　a　Chief　over　his　rump　and　set
out　to　join　the　cavalcade　again。

Very　considerably　fagged　out　we　arrived　in　town　at　9　o'clock　at　night；
myself　in　the　leadfor　when　my　horse　finally　came　to　understand　that　he
was　homeward　bound　and　hadn't　far　to　go；　he　turned　his　attention　strictly
to　business。

This　is　a　good　time　to　drop　in　a　paragraph　of　information。　　There　is　no
regular　livery　stable　in　Honolulu；　or；　indeed；　in　any　part　of　the　Kingdom
of　Hawaii；　therefore　unless　you　are　acquainted　with　wealthy　residents
（who　all　have　good　horses）；　you　must　hire　animals　of　the　wretchedest
description　from　the　Kanakas。　　（i。e。　　natives。）　Any　horse　you　hire；　even
though　it　be　from　a　white　man；　is　not　often　of　much　account；　because　it
will　be　brought　in　for　you　from　some　ranch；　and　has　necessarily　been
leading　a　hard　life。　　If　the　Kanakas　who　have　been　caring　for　him
（inveterate　riders　they　are）　have　not　ridden　him　half　to　death　every　day
themselves；　you　can　depend　upon　it　they　have　been　doing　the　same　thing　by
proxy；　by　clandestinely　hiring　him　out。　　At　least；　so　I　am　informed。　　The
result　is；　that　no　horse　has　a　chance　to　eat；　drink；　rest；　recuperate；　or
look　well　or　feel　well；　and　so　strangers　go　about　the　Islands　mounted　as
I　was　to…day。

In　hiring　a　horse　from　a　Kanaka；　you　must　have　all　your　eyes　about　you；
because　you　can　rest　satisfied　that　you　are　dealing　with　a　shrewd
unprincipled　rascal。　　You　may　leave　your　door　open　and　your　trunk
unlocked　as　long　as　you　please；　and　he　will　not　meddle　with　your
property；　he　has　no　important　vices　and　no　inclination　to　commit　robbery
on　a　large　scale；　but　if　he　can　get　ahead　of　you　in　the　horse　business；
he　will　take　a　genuine　delight　in　doing　it。　　This　traits　is
characteristic　of　horse　jockeys；　the　world　over；　is　it　not？　　He　will
overcharge　you　if　he　can；　he　will　hire　you　a　fine…looking　horse　at　night
（anybody'smay　be　the　King's；　if　the　royal　steed　be　in　convenient　view）；
and　bring　you　the　mate　to　my　Oahu　in　the　morning；　and　contend　that　it　is
the　same　animal。　　If　you　make　trouble；　he　will　get　out　by　saying　it　was
not　himself　who　made　the　bargain　with　you；　but　his　brother；　〃who　went　out
in　the　country　this　morning。〃　　They　have　always　got　a　〃brother〃　to　shift
the　responsibility　upon。　　A　victim　said　to　one　of　these　fellows　one　day：

〃But　I　know　I　hired　the　horse　of　you；　because　I　noticed　that　scar　on　your
cheek。〃

The　reply　was　not　bad：　〃Oh；　yesyesmy　brother　all　samewe　twins！〃

A　friend　of　mine；　J。　　Smith；　hired　a　horse　yesterday；　the　Kanaka
warranting　him　to　be　in　excellent　condition。

Smith　had　a　saddle　and　blanket　of　his　own；　and　he　ordered　the　Kanaka　to
put　these　on　the　horse。　　The　Kanaka　protested　that　he　was　perfectly
willing　to　trust　the　gentleman　with　the　saddle　that　was　already　on　the
animal；　but　Smith　refused　to　use　it。　　The　change　was　made；　then　Smith
noticed　that　the　Kanaka　had　only　changed　the　saddles；　and　had　left　the
original　blanket　on　the　horse；　he　said　he　forgot　to　change　the　blankets；
and　so；　to　cut　the　bother　short；　Smith　mounted　and　rode　away。　　The　horse
went　lame　a　mile　from　town；　and　afterward　got　to　cutting　up　some
extraordinary　capers。　　Smith　got　down　and　took　off　the　saddle；　but　the
blanket　stuck　fast　to　the　horseglued　to　a　procession　of　raw　places。
The　Kanaka's　mysterious　conduct　stood　explained。

Another　friend　of　mine　bought　a　pretty　good　horse　from　a　native；　a　day　or
two　ago；　after　a　tolerably　thorough　examination　of　the　animal。　　He
discovered　today　that　the　horse　was　as　blind　as　a　bat；　in　one　eye。　　He
meant　to　have　examined　that　eye；　and　came　home　with　a　general　notion　that
he　had　done　it；　but　he　remembers　now　that　every　time　he　made　the　attempt
his　attention　was　called　to　something　else　by　his　victimizer。

One　more　instance；　and　then　I　will　pass　to　something　else。　　I　am　informed
that　when　a　certain　Mr。　L。；　a　visiting　stranger；　was　here；　he　bought　a
pair　of　very　respectable…looking　match　horses　from　a　native。　　They　were
in　a　little　stable　with　a　partition　through　the　middle　of　itone　horse
in　each　apartment。　　Mr。　L。　　examined　one　of　them　critically　through　a
window　（the　Kanaka's　〃brother〃　having　gone　to　the　country　with　the　key）；
and　then　went　around　the　house　and　examined　the　other　through　a　window　on
the　other　side。　　He　said　it　was　the　neatest　match　he　had　ever　seen；　and
paid　for　the　horses　on　the　spot。　　Whereupon　the　Kanaka　departed　to　join
his　brother　in　the　country。　　The　fellow　had　shamefully　swindled　L。　　There
was　only　one　〃match〃　horse；　and　he　had　examined　his　starboard　side
through　one　window　and　his　port　side　through　another！　　I　decline　to
believe　this　story；　but　I　give　it　because　it　is　worth　something　as　a
fanciful　illustration　of　a　fixed　factnamely；　that　the　Kanaka　horse…
jockey　is　fertile　in　invention　and　elastic　in　conscience。

You　can　buy　a　pretty　good　horse　for　forty　or　fifty　dollars；　and　a　good
enough　horse　for　all　practical　purposes　for　two　dollars　and　a　half。　　I
estimate　〃Oahu〃　to　be　worth　somewhere　in　the　neighborhood　of　thirty…five
cents。　　A　good　deal　better　animal　than　he　is　was　sold　here　day　before
yesterday　for　a　dollar　and　seventy…five　cents；　and　sold　again　to…day　for
two　dollars　and　twenty…five　cents；　Williams　bought　a　handsome　and　lively
little　pony　yesterday　for　ten　dollars；　and　about　the　best　common　horse　on
the　island　（and　he　is　a　really　good　one）　sold　yesterday；　with　Mexican
saddle　and　bridle；　for　seventy　dollarsa　horse　which　is　well　and　widely
known；　and　greatly　respected　for　his　speed；　good　disposition　and
everlasting　bottom。

You　give　your　horse　a　little　grain　once　a　day；　it　come