roughing it-第67章

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everlasting　bottom。

You　give　your　horse　a　little　grain　once　a　day；　it　comes　from　San
Francisco；　and　is　worth　about　two　cents　a　pound；　and　you　give　him　as　much
hay　as　he　wants；　it　is　cut　and　brought　to　the　market　by　natives；　and　is
not　very　good　it　is　baled　into　long；　round　bundles；　about　the　size　of　a
large　man；　one　of　them　is　stuck　by　the　middle　on　each　end　of　a　six　foot
pole；　and　the　Kanaka　shoulders　the　pole　and　walks　about　the　streets
between　the　upright　bales　in　search　of　customers。　　These　hay　bales；　thus
carried；　have　a　general　resemblance　to　a　colossal　capital　'H。'

The　hay…bundles　cost　twenty…five　cents　apiece；　and　one　will　last　a　horse
about　a　day。　　You　can　get　a　horse　for　a　song；　a　week's　hay　for　another
song；　and　you　can　turn　your　animal　loose　among　the　luxuriant　grass　in
your　neighbor's　broad　front　yard　without　a　song　at　allyou　do　it　at
midnight；　and　stable　the　beast　again　before　morning。　　You　have　been　at　no
expense　thus　far；　but　when　you　come　to　buy　a　saddle　and　bridle　they　will
cost　you　from　twenty　to　thirty…five　dollars。　　You　can　hire　a　horse；
saddle　and　bridle　at　from　seven　to　ten　dollars　a　week；　and　the　owner　will
take　care　of　them　at　his　own　expense。

It　is　time　to　close　this　day's　recordbed　time。　　As　I　prepare　for　sleep；
a　rich　voice　rises　out　of　the　still　night；　and；　far　as　this　ocean　rock　is
toward　the　ends　of　the　earth；　I　recognize　a　familiar　home　air。　　But　the
words　seem　somewhat　out　of　joint：


〃Waikiki　lantoni　oe　Kaa　hooly　hooly　wawhoo。〃

Translated；　that　means　〃When　we　were　marching　through　Georgia。〃




CHAPTER　LXVI。

Passing　through　the　market　place　we　saw　that　feature　of　Honolulu　under
its　most　favorable　auspicesthat　is；　in　the　full　glory　of　Saturday
afternoon；　which　is　a　festive　day　with　the　natives。　　The　native　girls　by
twos　and　threes　and　parties　of　a　dozen；　and　sometimes　in　whole　platoons
and　companies；　went　cantering　up　and　down　the　neighboring　streets　astride
of　fleet　but　homely　horses；　and　with　their　gaudy　riding　habits　streaming
like　banners　behind　them。　　Such　a　troop　of　free　and　easy　riders；　in　their
natural　home；　the　saddle；　makes　a　gay　and　graceful　spectacle。　　The　riding
habit　I　speak　of　is　simply　a　long；　broad　scarf；　like　a　tavern　table　cloth
brilliantly　colored；　wrapped　around　the　loins　once；　then　apparently
passed　between　the　limbs　and　each　end　thrown　backward　over　the　same；　and
floating　and　flapping　behind　on　both　sides　beyond　the　horse's　tail　like　a
couple　of　fancy　flags；　then；　slipping　the　stirrup…irons　between　her　toes；
the　girl　throws　her　chest　for　ward；　sits　up　like　a　Major　General　and　goes
sweeping　by　like　the　wind。

The　girls　put　on　all　the　finery　they　can　on　Saturday　afternoonfine
black　silk　robes；　flowing　red　ones　that　nearly　put　your　eyes　out；　others
as　white　as　snow；　still　others　that　discount　the　rainbow；　and　they　wear
their　hair　in　nets；　and　trim　their　jaunty　hats　with　fresh　flowers；　and
encircle　their　dusky　throats　with　home…made　necklaces　of　the　brilliant
vermillion…tinted　blossom　of　the　ohia；　and　they　fill　the　markets　and　the
adjacent　street　with　their　bright　presences；　and　smell　like　a　rag　factory
on　fire　with　their　offensive　cocoanut　oil。

Occasionally　you　see　a　heathen　from　the　sunny　isles　away　down　in　the
South　Seas；　with　his　face　and　neck　tatooed　till　he　looks　like　the
customary　mendicant　from　Washoe　who　has　been　blown　up　in　a　mine。　　Some
are　tattooed　a　dead　blue　color　down　to　the　upper　lipmasked；　as　it　were
leaving　the　natural　light　yellow　skin　of　Micronesia　unstained　from
thence　down；　some　with　broad　marks　drawn　down　from　hair　to　neck；　on　both
sides　of　the　face；　and　a　strip　of　the　original　yellow　skin；　two　inches
wide；　down　the　centera　gridiron　with　a　spoke　broken　out；　and　some　with
the　entire　face　discolored　with　the　popular　mortification　tint；　relieved
only　by　one　or　two　thin；　wavy　threads　of　natural　yellow　running　across
the　face　from　ear　to　ear；　and　eyes　twinkling　out　of　this　darkness；　from
under　shadowing　hat…brims；　like　stars　in　the　dark　of　the　moon。

Moving　among　the　stirring　crowds；　you　come　to　the　poi　merchants；
squatting　in　the　shade　on　their　hams；　in　true　native　fashion；　and
surrounded　by　purchasers。　　（The　Sandwich　Islanders　always　squat　on　their
hams；　and　who　knows　but　they　may　be　the　old　original　〃ham　sandwiches？〃
The　thought　is　pregnant　with　interest。）　The　poi　looks　like　common　flour
paste；　and　is　kept　in　large　bowls　formed　of　a　species　of　gourd；　and
capable　of　holding　from　one　to　three　or　four　gallons。　　Poi　is　the　chief
article　of　food　among　the　natives；　and　is　prepared　from　the　taro　plant。

The　taro　root　looks　like　a　thick；　or；　if　you　please；　a　corpulent　sweet
potato；　in　shape；　but　is　of　a　light　purple　color　when　boiled。　　When
boiled　it　answers　as　a　passable　substitute　for　bread。　　The　buck　Kanakas
bake　it　under　ground；　then　mash　it　up　well　with　a　heavy　lava　pestle；　mix
water　with　it　until　it　becomes　a　paste；　set　it　aside　and　let　if　ferment；
and　then　it　is　poiand　an　unseductive　mixture　it　is；　almost　tasteless
before　it　ferments　and　too　sour　for　a　luxury　afterward。　　But　nothing　is
more　nutritious。　　When　solely　used；　however；　it　produces　acrid　humors；　a
fact　which　sufficiently　accounts　for　the　humorous　character　of　the
Kanakas。　　I　think　there　must　be　as　much　of　a　knack　in　handling　poi　as
there　is　in　eating　with　chopsticks。　　The　forefinger　is　thrust　into　the
mess　and　stirred　quickly　round　several　times　and　drawn　as　quickly　out；
thickly　coated；　just　as　it　it　were　poulticed；　the　head　is　thrown　back；
the　finger　inserted　in　the　mouth　and　the　delicacy　stripped　off　and
swallowedthe　eye　closing　gently；　meanwhile；　in　a　languid　sort　of
ecstasy。　　Many　a　different　finger　goes　into　the　same　bowl　and　many　a
different　kind　of　dirt　and　shade　and　quality　of　flavor　is　added　to　the
virtues　of　its　contents。

Around　a　small　shanty　was　collected　a　crowd　of　natives　buying　the　awa
root。　　It　is　said　that　but　for　the　use　of　this　root　the　destruction　of
the　people　in　former　times　by　certain　imported　diseases　would　have　been
far　greater　than　it　was；　and　by　others　it　is　said　that　this　is　merely　a
fancy。　　All　agree　that　poi　will　rejuvenate　a　man　who　is　used　up　and　his
vitality　almost　annihilated　by　hard　drinking；　and　that　in　some　kinds　of
diseases　it　will　restore　health　after　all　medicines　have　failed；　but　all
are　not　willing　to　allow　to　the　awa　the　virtues　claimed　for　it。　　The
natives　manufacture　an　intoxicating　drink　from　it　which　is　fearful　in　its
effects　when　persistently　indulged　in。　　It　covers　the　body　with　dry；
white　scales；　inflames　the　eyes；　and　causes　premature　decripitude。
Although　the　man　before　whose　establishment　we　stopped　has　to　pay　a
Government　license　of　eight　hundred　dollars　a　year　for　the　exclusive
right　to　sell　awa　root；　it　is　said　that　he　makes　a　small　fortune　every
twelve…month；　while　saloon　keepers；　who　pay　a　thousand　dollars　a　year　for
the　privilege　of　retailing　whiskey；　etc。；　only　make　a　bare　living。

We　found　the　fish　market　crowded；　for　the　native　is　very　fond　of　fish；
and　eats　the　article　raw　and　alive！　　Let　us　change　the　subject。

In　old　times　here　Saturday　was　a　grand　gala　day　indeed。　　All　the　native
population　of　the　town　forsook　their　labors；　and　those　of　the　surrounding
country　journeyed　to　the　city。　　Then　the　white　folks　had　to　stay　indoors；
for　every　street　was　so　packed　with　charging　cavaliers　and　cavalieresses
that　it　was　next　to　impossible　to　thread　one's　way　through　the　cavalcades
without　getting　crippled。

At　night　they　feasted　and　the　girls　danced　the　lascivious　hula　hulaa
dance　that　is　said　to　exhibit　the　very　perfection　of　educated　notion　of
limb　and　arm；　hand；　head　and　body；　and　the　exactest　uniformity　of
movement　and　accuracy　of　〃time。〃　　It　was　performed　by　a　circle　of　girls
with　no　raiment　on　them　to　speak　of；　who　went　through　an　infinite　variety
of　motions　and　figures　without　prompting；　and　yet　so　true　was　their
〃time；〃　and　in　such　perfect　concert　did　they　move　that　when　they　were
placed　in　a　straight　line；　hands；　arms；　bodies；　limbs　and　heads　waved；
swayed；　gesticulated；　bowed；　stooped；　whirled；　squirmed；　twisted　and
undulated　as　if　they　were　part　and　parcel　of　a　single　individual；　and　it
was　difficult　to　believe　they　were　not　moved　in　a　body　by　some　exquisite
piece　of　mechanism。

Of　late　years；　however；　Saturday　has　lost　most　of　its　quondam　gala
features。　　This　weekly　stampede　of　the　natives　interfered　too　much　with
labor　and　the　interests　of　the　white　folks；　and　by　sticking　in　a　law
here；　and　preaching　a　sermon　there；　and　by　various　other　means；　they
gradually　broke　it　up。　　The　demoralizing　hula　hula　was　forbidden　to　be
performed；　save　at　night；　with　closed　doors；　in　presence　of　few
spectators；　and　only　by　permission　duly　procured　from　the　authorities　and
the　payment　of　ten　dollars　for　the　same。　　There　are　few　girls　now…a…days
able　to　dance　this　ancient　national　dance　in　the　highest　perfection　of
the　art。

The　missionaries　have　christianized　and　educated　all　the　natives。　　They
all　belong　to　the　Church；　and　there　is　not　one　of　them；　above　the　age　of
eight　years；　but　can　read　and　write　with　facility　in　the　native　tongue。
It　is　the　most　universally　educated　race　of　people　outside　of　China。
They　have　any　quantity　of　books；　printed　in　the　Kanaka　language；　and　all
the　natives　are　fond　of　reading。　　They　are　inveterate　church…goers
nothing　can　keep　them　away。　　All　this　ameliorating　cultivation　has　at
last　built　up　in　the　native　women　a　profound　respect　for　chastityin
other　people。　　Perhaps　that　is　enough　to　say　on　that　head。　　The　national
sin　will　die　out　when　the　race　does；　but　perhaps　not　earlier。But
doubtless　this　purifying　is　not　far　off；　when　we　reflect　that　contact
with　civilization　and　the　whites　has　reduced　the　native　population　from
four　hundred　thousand　（Captain　Cook's　estimate；）　to　fifty…five　thousand
in　something　over　eighty　years！

Society　is　a　queer　medley　in　this　notable　missionary；　whaling　and
governmental　centre。　　If　you　get　into　conversation　with　a　stranger　and
experience　that　natural　desire　to　know　what　sort　of　ground　you　are
treading　on　by　finding　out　what　manner　of　man　your　stranger　is；　strike
out　boldly　and　address　him　as　〃Captain。〃　　Watch　him　narrowly；　and　if　you
see　by　his　countenance　that　you　are　on　the　wrong　tack；　ask　him　where　he
preaches。　　It　is　a　safe　bet　that　he　is　either　a　missionary　or　captain　of
a　whaler。　　I　am　now　personally　acquainted　with　seventy…two　captains　and
ninety…six　missionaries。　　The　captains　and　ministers　form　one…half　of　the
population；　the　third　fourth　is　composed　of　common　Kanakas　and　mercantile
foreigners　and　their　families；　and　the　final　fourth　is　made　up　of　high
officers　of　the　Hawaiian　Government。　　And　there　are　just　about　cats
enough　for　three　apiece　all　around。

A　solemn　stranger　met　me　in　the　suburbs　the　other　day；　and　said：

〃Good　morning；　your　reverence。　　Preach　in　the　stone　church　yonder；　no
doubt？〃

〃No；　I　don't。　　I'm　not　a　preacher。〃

〃Really；　I　beg　your　pardon；　Captain。　　I　trust　you　had　a　good　season。　　How
much　oil〃

〃Oil？　　What　do　you　take　me　for？　　I'm　not　a　whaler。〃

〃Oh；　I　beg　a　thousand　pardons；　your　Excellency。

Major　General　in　the　household　troops；　no　doubt？　　Minister　of　the
Interior；　likely？