roughing it-第71章

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followed　the　King's　death；　in　accordance　with　ancient　custom；　afterward
became　a　devout　Christian　and　a　steadfast　and　powerful　friend　of　the
missionaries。

Dogs　were；　and　still　are；　reared　and　fattened　for　food；　by　the　natives
hence　the　reference　to　their　value　in　one　of　the　above　paragraphs。

Forty　years　ago　it　was　the　custom　in　the　Islands　to　suspend　all　law　for　a
certain　number　of　days　after　the　death　of　a　royal　personage；　and　then　a
saturnalia　ensued　which　one　may　picture　to　himself　after　a　fashion；　but
not　in　the　full　horror　of　the　reality。　　The　people　shaved　their　heads；
knocked　out　a　tooth　or　two；　plucked　out　an　eye　sometimes；　cut；　bruised；
mutilated　or　burned　their　flesh；　got　drunk；　burned　each　other's　huts；
maimed　or　murdered　one　another　according　to　the　caprice　of　the　moment；
and　both　sexes　gave　themselves　up　to　brutal　and　unbridled　licentiousness。

And　after　it　all；　came　a　torpor　from　which　the　nation　slowly　emerged
bewildered　and　dazed；　as　if　from　a　hideous　half…remembered　nightmare。
They　were　not　the　salt　of　the　earth；　those　〃gentle　children　of　the　sun。〃

The　natives　still　keep　up　an　old　custom　of　theirs　which　cannot　be
comforting　to　an　invalid。　　When　they　think　a　sick　friend　is　going　to　die；
a　couple　of　dozen　neighbors　surround　his　hut　and　keep　up　a　deafening
wailing　night　and　day　till　he　either　dies　or　gets　well。　　No　doubt　this
arrangement　has　helped　many　a　subject　to　a　shroud　before　his　appointed
time。

They　surround　a　hut　and　wail　in　the　same　heart…broken　way　when　its
occupant　returns　from　a　journey。　　This　is　their　dismal　idea　of　a　welcome。
A　very　little　of　it　would　go　a　great　way　with　most　of　us。




CHAPTER　LXIX。

Bound　for　Hawaii　（a　hundred　and　fifty　miles　distant；）　to　visit　the　great
volcano　and　behold　the　other　notable　things　which　distinguish　that　island
above　the　remainder　of　the　group；　we　sailed　from　Honolulu　on　a　certain
Saturday　afternoon；　in　the　good　schooner　Boomerang。

The　Boomerang　was　about　as　long　as　two　street　cars；　and　about　as　wide　as
one。　　She　was　so　small　（though　she　was　larger　than　the　majority　of　the
inter…island　coasters）　that　when　I　stood　on　her　deck　I　felt　but　little
smaller　than　the　Colossus　of　Rhodes　must　have　felt　when　he　had　a　man…of…
war　under　him。　　I　could　reach　the　water　when　she　lay　over　under　a　strong
breeze。　　When　the　Captain　and　my　comrade　（a　Mr。　Billings）；　myself　and
four　other　persons　were　all　assembled　on　the　little　after　portion　of　the
deck　which　is　sacred　to　the　cabin　passengers；　it　was　fullthere　was　not
room　for　any　more　quality　folks。　　Another　section　of　the　deck；　twice　as
large　as　ours；　was　full　of　natives　of　both　sexes；　with　their　customary
dogs；　mats；　blankets；　pipes；　calabashes　of　poi；　fleas；　and　other　luxuries
and　baggage　of　minor　importance。　　As　soon　as　we　set　sail　the　natives　all
lay　down　on　the　deck　as　thick　as　negroes　in　a　slave…pen；　and　smoked；
conversed；　and　spit　on　each　other；　and　were　truly　sociable。

The　little　low…ceiled　cabin　below　was　rather　larger　than　a　hearse；　and　as
dark　as　a　vault。　　It　had　two　coffins　on　each　sideI　mean　two　bunks。
A　small　table；　capable　of　accommodating　three　persons　at　dinner；　stood
against　the　forward　bulkhead；　and　over　it　hung　the　dingiest　whale　oil
lantern　that　ever　peopled　the　obscurity　of　a　dungeon　with　ghostly　shapes。
The　floor　room　unoccupied　was　not　extensive。　　One　might　swing　a　cat　in
it；　perhaps；　but　not　a　long　cat。　　The　hold　forward　of　the　bulkhead　had
but　little　freight　in　it；　and　from　morning　till　night　a　portly　old
rooster；　with　a　voice　like　Baalam's　ass；　and　the　same　disposition　to　use
it；　strutted　up　and　down　in　that　part　of　the　vessel　and　crowed。　　He
usually　took　dinner　at　six　o'clock；　and　then；　after　an　hour　devoted　to
meditation；　he　mounted　a　barrel　and　crowed　a　good　part　of　the　night。
He　got　hoarser　all　the　time；　but　he　scorned　to　allow　any　personal
consideration　to　interfere　with　his　duty；　and　kept　up　his　labors　in
defiance　of　threatened　diphtheria。

Sleeping　was　out　of　the　question　when　he　was　on　watch。　　He　was　a　source
of　genuine　aggravation　and　annoyance。　　It　was　worse　than　useless　to　shout
at　him　or　apply　offensive　epithets　to　himhe　only　took　these　things　for
applause；　and　strained　himself　to　make　more　noise。　　Occasionally；　during
the　day；　I　threw　potatoes　at　him　through　an　aperture　in　the　bulkhead；　but
he　only　dodged　and　went　on　crowing。

The　first　night；　as　I　lay　in　my　coffin；　idly　watching　the　dim　lamp
swinging　to　the　rolling　of　the　ship；　and　snuffing　the　nauseous　odors　of
bilge　water；　I　felt　something　gallop　over　me。　　I　turned　out　promptly。
However；　I　turned　in　again　when　I　found　it　was　only　a　rat。　　Presently
something　galloped　over　me　once　more。　　I　knew　it　was　not　a　rat　this　time；
and　I　thought　it　might　be　a　centipede；　because　the　Captain　had　killed　one
on　deck　in　the　afternoon。　　I　turned　out。　　The　first　glance　at　the　pillow
showed　me　repulsive　sentinel　perched　upon　each　end　of　itcockroaches　as
large　as　peach　leavesfellows　with　long；　quivering　antennae　and　fiery；
malignant　eyes。　　They　were　grating　their　teeth　like　tobacco　worms；　and
appeared　to　be　dissatisfied　about　something。　　I　had　often　heard　that
these　reptiles　were　in　the　habit　of　eating　off　sleeping　sailors'　toe
nails　down　to　the　quick；　and　I　would　not　get　in　the　bunk　any　more。　　I　lay
down　on　the　floor。　　But　a　rat　came　and　bothered　me；　and　shortly　afterward
a　procession　of　cockroaches　arrived　and　camped　in　my　hair。　　In　a　few
moments　the　rooster　was　crowing　with　uncommon　spirit　and　a　party　of　fleas
were　throwing　double　somersaults　about　my　person　in　the　wildest　disorder；
and　taking　a　bite　every　time　they　struck。　　I　was　beginning　to　feel　really
annoyed。　　I　got　up　and　put　my　clothes　on　and　went　on　deck。

The　above　is　not　overdrawn；　it　is　a　truthful　sketch　of　inter…island
schooner　life。　　There　is　no　such　thing　as　keeping　a　vessel　in　elegant
condition；　when　she　carries　molasses　and　Kanakas。

It　was　compensation　for　my　sufferings　to　come　unexpectedly　upon　so
beautiful　a　scene　as　met　my　eyeto　step　suddenly　out　of　the　sepulchral
gloom　of　the　cabin　and　stand　under　the　strong　light　of　the　moonin　the
centre；　as　it　were；　of　a　glittering　sea　of　liquid　silverto　see　the
broad　sails　straining　in　the　gale；　the　ship　heeled　over　on　her　side；　the
angry　foam　hissing　past　her　lee　bulwarks；　and　sparkling　sheets　of　spray
dashing　high　over　her　bows　and　raining　upon　her　decks；　to　brace　myself
and　hang　fast　to　the　first　object　that　presented　itself；　with　hat　jammed
down　and　coat　tails　whipping　in　the　breeze；　and　feel　that　exhilaration
that　thrills　in　one's　hair　and　quivers　down　his　back　bone　when　he　knows
that　every　inch　of　canvas　is　drawing　and　the　vessel　cleaving　through　the
waves　at　her　utmost　speed。　　There　was　no　darkness；　no　dimness；　no
obscurity　there。　　All　was　brightness；　every　object　was　vividly　defined。
Every　prostrate　Kanaka；　every　coil　of　rope；　every　calabash　of　poi；　every
puppy；　every　seam　in　the　flooring；　every　bolthead；　every　object；　however
minute；　showed　sharp　and　distinct　in　its　every　outline；　and　the　shadow　of
the　broad　mainsail　lay　black　as　a　pall　upon　the　deck；　leaving　Billings's
white　upturned　face　glorified　and　his　body　in　a　total　eclipse。
Monday　morning　we　were　close　to　the　island　of　Hawaii。　　Two　of　its　high
mountains　were　in　viewMauna　Loa　and　Hualaiai。

The　latter　is　an　imposing　peak；　but　being　only　ten　thousand　feet　high　is
seldom　mentioned　or　heard　of。　　Mauna　Loa　is　said　to　be　sixteen　thousand
feet　high。　　The　rays　of　glittering　snow　and　ice；　that　clasped　its　summit
like　a　claw；　looked　refreshing　when　viewed　from　the　blistering　climate　we
were　in。　　One　could　stand　on　that　mountain　（wrapped　up　in　blankets　and
furs　to　keep　warm）；　and　while　he　nibbled　a　snowball　or　an　icicle　to
quench　his　thirst　he　could　look　down　the　long　sweep　of　its　sides　and　see
spots　where　plants　are　growing　that　grow　only　where　the　bitter　cold　of
Winter　prevails；　lower　down　he　could　see　sections　devoted　to　production
that　thrive　in　the　temperate　zone　alone；　and　at　the　bottom　of　the
mountain　he　could　see　the　home　of　the　tufted　cocoa…palms　and　other
species　of　vegetation　that　grow　only　in　the　sultry　atmosphere　of　eternal
Summer。　　He　could　see　all　the　climes　of　the　world　at　a　single　glance　of
the　eye；　and　that　glance　would　only　pass　over　a　distance　of　four　or　five
miles　as　the　bird　flies！

By　and　by　we　took　boat　and　went　ashore　at　Kailua；　designing　to　ride
horseback　through　the　pleasant　orange　and　coffee　region　of　Kona；　and
rejoin　the　vessel　at　a　point　some　leagues　distant。　　This　journey　is　well
worth　taking。　　The　trail　passes　along　on　high　groundsay　a　thousand　feet
above　sea　leveland　usually　about　a　mile　distant　from　the　ocean；　which
is　always　in　sight；　save　that　occasionally　you　find　yourself　buried　in
the　forest　in　the　midst　of　a　rank　tropical　vegetation　and　a　dense　growth
of　trees；　whose　great　bows　overarch　the　road　and　shut　out　sun　and　sea　and
everything；　and　leave　you　in　a　dim；　shady　tunnel；　haunted　with　invisible
singing　birds　and　fragrant　with　the　odor　of　flowers。　　It　was　pleasant　to
ride　occasionally　in　the　warm　sun；　and　feast　the　eye　upon　the　ever…
changing　panorama　of　the　forest　（beyond　and　below　us）；　with　its　many
tints；　its　softened　lights　and　shadows；　its　billowy　undulations　sweeping
gently　down　from　the　mountain　to　the　sea。　　It　was　pleasant　also；　at
intervals；　to　leave　the　sultry　sun　and　pass　into　the　cool；　green　depths
of　this　forest　and　indulge　in　sentimental　reflections　under　the
inspiration　of　its　brooding　twilight　and　its　whispering　foliage。
We　rode　through　one　orange　grove　that　had　ten　thousand　tree　in　it！
They　were　all　laden　with　fruit。

At　one　farmhouse　we　got　some　large　peaches　of　excellent　flavor。
This　fruit；　as　a　general　thing；　does　not　do　well　in　the　Sandwich　Islands。
It　takes　a　sort　of　almond　shape；　and　is　small　and　bitter。　　It　needs
frost；　they　say；　and　perhaps　it　does；　if　this　be　so；　it　will　have　a　good
opportunity　to　go　on　needing　it；　as　it　will　not　be　likely　to　get　it。
The　trees　from　which　the　fine　fruit　I　have　spoken　of；　came；　had　been
planted　and　replanted　sixteen　times；　and　to　this　treatment　the　proprietor
of　the　orchard　attributed　his…success。

We　passed　several　sugar　plantationsnew　ones　and　not　very　extensive。
The　crops　were；　in　most　cases；　third　rattoons。　　＇NOTE。The　first　crop　is
called　〃plant　cane；〃　subsequent　crops　which　spring　from　the　original
roots；　without　replanting；　are　called　〃rattoons。〃＇　Almost　everywhere　on
the　island　of　Hawaii　sugar…cane　matures　in　twelve　months；　both　rattoons
and　plant；　and　although　it　ought　to　be　taken　off　as　soon　as　it　tassels；
no　doubt；　it　is　not　absolutely　necessary　to　do　it　until　about　four　months
afterward。　　In　Kona；　the　average　yield　of　an　acre　of　ground　is　two　tons
of　sugar；　they　say。　　This　is　only　a　moderate　yield　for　these　islands；　but
would　be　astounding　for　Louisiana　and　most　other　sugar　growing　countries。
The　plantations　in　Kona　being　on　pretty　high　groundup　among　the　light
and　frequent　rainsno　irrigation　whatever　is　required。




CHAPTER　LXX。

We　stopped　some　time　at　one　of　the　plantations；　to　rest　ourselves　and
refresh　the　horses。　　We　had　a　chatty　conversation　with　several　gentlemen
present；　but　there　was　one　person；　a　middle　aged