the ways of men(人们的手段)-第32章
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the public； and getting talked about as a celebrity。 He even arranged （to the
disgust and envy of his rivals） to die during a week when no event of
importance was occupying public attention。 In consequence； reporters；
being short of 〃copy；〃 owing to a dearth of murders and 〃first nights；〃
seized on this demise and made his funeral an event。
The truth is； the Ocean House had lived so long in an atmosphere of
ostentatious worldliness that； like many residents of the summer city； it
had come to take itself and its 〃position〃 seriously； and imagine that the
eyes of the country were fixed upon and expected something of it。
The air of Newport has always proved fatal to big hotels。 One after
another they have appeared and failed； the Ocean House alone dragging
out a forlorn existence。 As the flames worked their will and the careless
crowd enjoyed the spectacle； one could not help feeling a vague regret for
the old place； more for what it represented than for any intrinsic value of
its own。 Without greatly stretching a point it might be taken to represent a
social condition； a phase； as it were； in our development。 In a certain
obscure way； it was an epoch… marking structure。 Its building closed the
era of primitive Newport； its decline corresponded with the end of the pre…
palatial period … an era extending from 1845 to 1885。
During forty years Newport had a unique existence； unknown to the
rest of America； and destined to have a lasting influence on her ways； an
existence now as completely forgotten as the earlier boarding…house
MATINEE DANSANTE time。 * The sixties； seventies； and eighties in
Newport were pleasant years that many of us regret in spite of modern
progress。 Simple； inexpensive days； when people dined at three （looking
on the newly introduced six o'clock dinners as an English innovation and
modern 〃frill〃）； and 〃high…teaed〃 together dyspeptically off 〃sally lunns〃
and 〃preserves；〃 washed down by coffee and chocolate； which it was the
toilsome duty of a hostess to dispense from a silver…laden tray； days when
〃rockaways〃 drawn by lean； long…tailed horses and driven by mustached
darkies were； if not the rule； far from being an exception。
* 〃Newport of the Past；〃 WORLDLY WAYS AND BY…WAYS。
〃Dutch treat〃 picnics； another archaic amusement； flourished then；
directed by a famous organizer at his farm； each guest being told what
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share of the eatables it was his duty to provide； an edict from which there
was no appeal。
Sport was little known then； young men passing their afternoons
tooling solemnly up and down Bellevue Avenue in top…hats and black
frock…coats under the burning August sun。
This was the epoch when the Town and Country Club was young and
full of vigor。 We met at each other's houses or at historic sites to hear
papers read on serious subjects。 One particular afternoon is vivid in my
memory。 We had all driven out to a point on the shore beyond the Third
Beach； where the Norsemen were supposed to have landed during their
apocryphal visit to this continent。 It had been a hot drive； but when we
stopped； a keen wind was blowing in from the sea。 During a pause in the
prolix address that followed； a coachman's voice was heard to mutter； 〃If
he jaws much longer all the horses will be foundered；〃 which brought the
learned address to an ignominious and hasty termination。
Newport during the pre…palatial era affected culture； and a whiff of
Boston pervaded the air； much of which was tiresome； yet with an under…
current of charm and refinement。 Those who had the privilege of knowing
Mrs。 Julia Ward Howe； will remember the pleasant 〃teas〃 and sparkling
conversation she offered her guests in the unpretending cottage where the
beauty of the daughter was as brilliant as the mother's wit。
Two estates on Bellevue Avenue are now without the hostesses who； in
those days； showed the world what great ladies America could produce。 It
was the foreign…born husband of one of these women who gave Newport
its first lessons in luxurious living。 Until then Americans had travelled
abroad and seen elaborately served meals and properly appointed stables
without the ambition of copying such things at home。 Colonial and
revolutionary state had died out； and modern extravagance had not yet
appeared。 In the interregnum much was neglected that might have added
to the convenience and grace of life。
In France； under Louis Philippe； and in England； during Victoria's
youth； taste reached an ebb tide； in neither of those countries； however； did
the general standard fall so low as here。 It was owing to the SAVOIR
FAIRE of one man that Newporters and New York first saw at home what
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they had admired abroad； … liveried servants in sufficient numbers； dinners
served A LA RUSSE； and breeched and booted grooms on English…built
traps； innovations quickly followed by his neighbors； for the most marked
characteristic of the American is his ability to 〃catch on。〃
When； during the war of the secession； our Naval Academy was
removed from Annapolis and installed in the empty Atlantic House （corner
of Bellevue Avenue and Pelham Street）； hotel life had already begun to
decline； but the Ocean House； which was considered a vast enterprise at
that time； inherited from the older hotels the custom of giving Saturday
evening 〃hops；〃 the cottagers arriving at these informal entertainments
toward nine o'clock and promenading up and down the corridors or
dancing in the parlor； to the admiration of a public collected to enjoy the
spectacle。 At eleven the doors of the dining… room opened； and a line of
well…drilled darkies passed ices and lemonade。 By half…past eleven （the
hour at which we now arrive at a dance） every one was at home and abed。
One remembers with a shudder the military manoeuvres that attended
hotel meals in those days； the marching and countermarching； your dinner
cooling while the head waiter reviewed his men。 That idiotic custom has
been abandoned； like many better and worse。 Next to the American ability
to catch on comes the facility with which he can drop a fad。
In this peculiarity the history of Newport has been an epitome of the
country； every form of amusement being in turn taken up； run into the
ground； and then abandoned。 At one time it was the fashion to drive to
Fort Adams of an afternoon and circle round and round the little green to
the sounds of a military band； then； for no visible reason； people took to
driving on the Third Beach； an inaccessible and lonely point which for two
or three summers was considered the only correct promenade。
I blush to recall it； but at that time most of the turnouts were hired
hacks。 Next； Graves Point； on the Ocean Drive； became the popular
meeting…place。 Then society took to attending polo of an afternoon； a sport
just introduced from India。 This era corresponded with the opening of the
Casino （the old reading…room dating from 1854）。 For several years every
one crowded during hot August mornings onto the airless lawns and
piazzas of the new establishment。 It seems on looking back as if we must
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have been more fond of seeing each other in those days than we are now。
To ride up and down a beach and bow filled our souls with joy； and the
〃cake walk〃 was an essential part of every ball； the guests parading in
pairs round and round the room between the dances instead of sitting
quietly 〃out。〃 The opening promenade at the New York Charity Ball is a
survival of this inane custom。
The disappearance of the Ocean House 〃hops〃 marked the last stage in
hotel life。 Since then better…class watering places all over the country have
slowly but surely followed Newport's lead。 The closed caravansaries of
Bar Harbor and elsewhere bear silent testimony to the fact that refined
Americans are at last awakening to the charms of home life during their
holidays； and are discarding； as fast as finances will permit； the pernicious
herding system。 In consequence the hotel has ceased to be； what it
undoubtedly was twenty years ago； the focus of our summer life。
Only a few charred rafters remain of the Ocean House。 A few talkative
old duffers like myself alone survive the day it represents。 Changing social
conditions have gradually placed both on the retired list。 A new and
palatial Newport has replaced the simpler city。 Let us not waste too much
time regretting the past； or be too sure that it was better than the present。 It
is quite possible； if the old times we are writing so fondly about should
return； we might discover that the same thing was true of them as a ragged
urchin asserted the other afternoon of the burning building：
〃Say； Tom； did ye know there was the biggest room in the world in that
hotel？〃
〃No； what room？〃
〃Room for improvement； ya！〃
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CHAPTER 27 … SARDOU at
Marly…le…Roy
NEAR the centre of that verdant triangle formed by Saint Cloud；
Versailles； and Saint Germain lies the village of Marly…le…Roy； high up on
a slope above the lazy Seine … an entrancing corner of the earth； much
affected formerly by French crowned heads； and by the 〃Sun King〃 in
particular； who in hi
